You don’t really know what you’re getting at Serpico. The menu might state “roasted beets” or “raw diver scallops,” but the chef likes to surprise, so what you eat will likely taste only marginally like beets or scallops. In all likelihood it will be masquerading as something else, like the mushroom tartare, which tastes like the most succulent beef tartare you’ve ever tried—though it is totally vegetarian-friendly. The fried cauliflower with shrimp is a dead ringer for Chinese shrimp toast, and the exquisite crispy sweet potato dessert (with white chocolate and caramel) in another life was a fine French pastry topped with a puff of aerated cream. This magic show of a meal is served in a handsome, formerly industrial space, with the open kitchen spotlit in the middle so that diners can watch as their food is transformed. The menu is divided into small, medium, and large plates, but in our experience, the small aren't that small and the medium are large. So don't take the server's advice to order three dishes per person unless you have someone to roll you home afterwards.