Few children get as much tender loving care as the onions do at Vetri Cucina. For 48 hours they are patiently caramelized over the lowest heat possible, coddled until some 50 pounds of them form a meltingly tender, richly flavored five-pound mash, some of which is then inserted into a circular crepe and plopped on top of a parmigiana sauce and white truffles. It's an eye-poppingly delicious dish, just one of many at this tasting menu-only classic. Vetri Cucina has been wowing diners for more than 20 years now, and though its dining room could use an update (the mottled yellow walls and odd brass lighting fixtures scream 1998), chef Marc Vetri hasn't missed a step. His cuisine still represents the best in modern Italian cooking. Tip: If you'd like to try Vetri's creations but don't want to shell out $165 for the privilege, book a Friday lunch. Then, four tasty courses (appetizer, pasta, meat or fish, dessert) are available for "just" $85.