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The best of many similar places along the riverbank, just in front of the main tourist attraction, Wat Yai, Pae Pha Thai is a friendly, casual eatery with no pretense. Indulge in the kind of spread you might find in a Thai home -- tod man plaa (deep-fried fish cakes), kai phad kaprow (chicken with basil and chili), tom yum soup, and a whole fish encrusted with garlic and lemon. Dishes seem to be made all the better by being served at water's edge.