Planning a trip to Phnom Penh
Getting There
By Air -- All major airlines in the region connect here. Phnom Penh International (formerly Pochentong) Airport is about a 20-minute drive from the city center (if the traffic is thin). A cab costs $9, while a tuk-tuk costs $7. Vehicles entering the airport are monitored. You pay at a counter in arrivals and hand the voucher to the driver waiting in the queue at the front. Motorcycle taxis are not allowed into the airport compound, but if you wish you can walk past the airport gates and hail a motodup from the side of the road. The fare will be about $3, but be prepared to haggle. This is all probably a bad idea if this is your first time in Phnom Penh, and you are better off sticking with the approved taxi.
By Boat -- Hydrofoil riverboats connect Phnom Penh with Siem Reap and leave early every morning from the main dock on the north end of town. Tickets are available from both travel agents and hotels or you can purchase directly at the quay. The price is in the region of $35. Now that the road to Siem Reap is completely perfect, boats have lost much of their popularity. This is not surprising as they are often overcrowded and uncomfortable, and their safety record is dubious. The boat route up the Mekong to Kratie has been discontinued altogether. Earlier this century, all the passengers on the Siem Reap ferry were held up at gunpoint and robbed by fellow passengers. The culprits turned out to be hospitality students!
By Bus -- Different companies leave from different parts of town, though outside of Psar Thmei (Central Market) is where you will find the departure points for both Sorya (tel. 023/210-359) and GST Express (tel. 023/355-379) bus services. They are comfortable and reasonably priced, but often very cold because of excessive air-conditioning. Mekong Express (tel. 023/427-518), leaving from Sisowath Quay on the corner of Street 102, is generally reputed to be the most comfortable and swift, but you will pay slightly more. It is worth it. Sorya (or Ho Wah Genting as they used to be called) and GST offer a slightly cheaper but less salubrious option. Travel remains cheap, with journeys from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap or Sihanoukville costing under $5. Unlike elsewhere in Southeast Asia, there are few night buses. Most departures leave in the early hours of the morning with the last ones leaving in midafternoon. The easiest way to buy tickets is through your hotel, guesthouse, or a travel agent.
Buses run in both directions from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Kampot, Koh Kong, Battambang, Kratie, Kompong Cham, Stung Treng, Banlung, Sisophon, and Poipet.
Getting Around
With the increase in crowds and traffic that has occurred in the last few years, getting around Phnom Penh can be a fairly wild experience. The good news is that there are plenty of modes of transportation, and hailing a motodup, a cyclo, or a tuk-tuk is very simple since they are everywhere.
By Motorcycle Taxi -- Motorcycle taxis are all over town and are often the quickest way to get around. Just hail one from the sidewalk. Most restaurants and hotels will also have a stand of affiliated drivers. If you find one you like, take his phone number and hire him again. Most residents of Phnom Penh will have their own recommendation for good drivers or motodups, as they are called in Khmer. The dups are even thought to be mystically "all knowing" by Phnom Penh residents. Most trips around town will cost less than a dollar during the day. At night you normally double the fee. Most people don't wear a helmet, but they should, given the dubious quality of both the motorcycles and the driving.
By Cyclo -- A gentler but slower way to see the sights is by cyclo. They operate under the same rules and pretty much the same rates as the motorcycle taxis. Cyclos take a lot of the stress out of getting from point A to point B. They are also good when it rains, since the cyclo driver will bring out plastic sheeting to shelter you from the elements. You will always find lots of cyclos around Psah Thmei (the Central Market), as people use them to transport bulky or heavy goods. As the traffic chaos of Phnom Penh's streets increases, the experience of touring the city by cyclo becomes harder as these gentle vehicles are forced out by land cruisers and trucks. At the moment, however, it remains feasible.
By Tuk-Tuk -- Tuk-tuks are a fairly new development in Phnom Penh and are readily available. The name is taken from the Thais, but these tuk-tuks have little in common with the noisy, Bangkok two-stroke three-wheeler. Cambodia's tuk-tuks are a two-wheeled cart pulled by a standard motorbike, attached through a fairly ingenious coupling device. They are shaded, and the padded seat seats two (or three if you are thin). There is often a small shelf at the front of the cart, usually with laminated maps and advertisements, and, in a pinch, you can seat two more, but it's not very comfy. It costs between $2 and $3 for trips around town, while a ride farther out to places like the Killing Fields will set you back $15.
By Taxi -- Metered cabs have now made an appearance on the streets of Phnom Penh, though they are limited. Global Taxi (tel. 011/311-888) is generally reserved only by phone, though occasionally you might's see one waiting for a fare near a tourist spot late at night. The flag fall is 4,000 riel for the first 2km and then 400 riel per kilometer. Taxi Vantha (tel. 012/855-000) is unmetered and reached by phone only. Expect to pay around $4 to $5 for a short journey.
Enterprising taxi driver Yinn Vannak (tel. 016/639-852; www.cambodiadriver.com) has his own website for bookings and is available for hire on a long- or short-term basis.
There are many unofficial cabs. All guesthouses and hotels will be able to get you are a car within half an hour. A ride to the airport costs between $5 and $7.
By Motorcycle -- Driving in Phnom Penh is not for the fainthearted. In fact, unless absolutely necessary, it is best avoided. If you don't heed this call, you can hire motorcycles at a number of places including Lucky! Lucky!, at 413 Monivong Blvd. (tel. 023/212-788), which has been in the business a long time. You can get a step-through type 100cc-to-125cc scooter for $5 a day. Some of them are good, but some of them are unsound in the extreme and you should examine them and refuse them if you have doubts. They also rent bigger 250cc bikes for touring at $9 as well as jeeps and even luxury cars. Driving a motorcycle in Phnom Penh requires experience. It is a chaotic, aggressive, and often nerve-racking experience with traffic going in all directions, often straight at you. Keep space around you, drive slowly, and wear a helmet (if not available when renting, you can buy one for $10-$20 from a shop at Monivong or Kampuchea Krom).
Parking
Phnom Penh lies north to south along the Tonle Sap River and the river provides a natural marker. Your major reference points are the Tonle Sap itself (and the Royal Palace), Wat Phnom, Central Market, Independence Monument, and Boeung Kak Lake.
Along the river is Sisowath Quay. It is here that you will find the Royal Palace, the ceremonial heart of the city. Just near the Palace and the National Museum is one of the primary restaurant and cafe districts. Virtually the whole riverfront is now a series of eateries interspersed with hotels, Internet cafes, and travel agents.
Heading a few blocks west and running parallel to Sisowath Quay is the major artery of Norodom Boulevard. The two major landmarks along this road are Democracy Monument to the southwest of the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom where it ends at the northern end of Central Phnom Penh.
Heading west again across the parallel intersections with Street 51 and Street 63, one arrives at Monivong Boulevard. This is the city's main thoroughfare and is very hectic during the day. Along Monivong, you will find many of the major banks and airline offices. At the northern end of Monivong is the area around Boeung Kak Lake (although the lake itself now represents prime real estate and there are plans afoot to fill it in). This has for a long time been the main backpacker area. Ringing the lake (at present) is a series of very cheap guesthouses and restaurants. To the north, Monivong ends at a large roundabout. This place has historical significance since the nearby French Embassy was where foreigners sheltered in 1975 after the city fell to the Khmer Rouge. Heading east from the roundabout will take you to the Japanese Bridge that crosses to Prek Leap.
Phsar Thmei, or the Central Market, is a huge and eccentric French Art Deco landmark in the center of town between Norodom and Monivong.
Circling the central part of Phnom Penh is Mao Tse Tung Boulevard. Three major arteries radiate out from Monivong to Mao Tse Tung: Confederation de la Russie (Airport Rd.) heading due west passing the southern side of Boeung Kak Lake; Kampuchea Krom Boulevard, which parallels it 4 blocks south; and Charles de Gaulle (turning into Monireth), which takes you southwest out of the city. Sihanouk Boulevard is a kind of inner ring road partially echoing Mao Tse Tung Boulevard to the west and south starting at Independence Monument and Norodom and ending at Confederation de la Russie just south of Boeung Lak Lake.
A lot, but by no means all, of the hotels and restaurants are situated in the area between the Tonle Sap and Monivong, south of Wat Phnom and north of Victory Monument. Between Monivong and Norodom south of Sihanouk Boulevard is a leafy and relatively quiet residential network of streets, called Boeung Keng Kang, where many expats live, and NGOs and international organizations are housed in former French villas. There are also many restaurants and cafes and it is in many ways the most pleasant part of town.
The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Nation -- The Tonle Sap is the only waterway in the world that changes direction halfway through the year and starts to flow in the opposite direction according to the season. From November to May, Cambodia's dry season, the Tonle Sap flows into the Mekong River, the two waterways converging at Phnom Penh. However, when the monsoon rains begin in June, the Tonle Sap backs up the other way to form what is essentially an enormous natural reservoir. The direction of the Tonle Sap is decided by the pressure of the water from the Mekong, either forcing it back into the Tonle Sap Lake when the river is high or drawing it into its own flow when the river is low. It is a natural safety valve, giving the Mekong natural elbowroom to flow through the delta and on to the sea. Most of the year, the Tonle Sap Lake is relatively shallow. During the rainy season, it increases in area to 16,000 sq. km (6,240 sq. miles) and its depth can reach up to 9m (30 ft.), flooding surrounding fields and forests. The Tonle Sap is the beating heart of Cambodia. It has traditionally provided abundant irrigation for rice while yielding plentiful amounts of fish -- the central sustenance of life for Cambodians.
Fast Facts
ATMs -- ATMs are everywhere now in Phnom Penh and accept all internationally recognized cards. Those of the Canadia Bank levy the lowest transaction charges. All ATMs dispense U.S. dollars.
American Express -- For basic American Express services, contact Diethelm Travel (No. 65 St. 240, P.O. Box 99, Phnom Penh; tel. 023/219-151; www.diethelmtravel.com).
Banks & Currency Exchange -- ANZ Bank has many reliable international ATMs in town, the most convenient being at their riverside branch, 265 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023-726-900) Canadia Bank, at No. 265 -- 269 St. 114 (tel. 023/215-286) and Mekong Bank, at 1 St. 114 (tel. 023/217-112) are also in the downtown area and can cash traveler's checks and give cash advances. A Western Union office is at 327 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023/990-688).
Business Hours -- Stores are generally open between 7am and 7pm from Monday to Friday. Markets close earlier and generally shutter by 5pm.
Doctors & Hospitals -- The International SOS Medical and Dental Clinic, at No. 161 St. 51 (tel. 023/216-911), is the best place to handle minor emergencies. Naga Clinic, at No. 11 St. 254 (tel. 011/811-175), is another. For any major emergency or injury, however, you'll want to arrange medical evacuation.
Embassies & Consulates -- U.S.: corner of Street 96/51, tel. 023/728-000; Canada: Represented by Australian Embassy; Australia: Villa No. 11 St. 254, tel. 023/213-470; Ireland: Represented by U.K. Embassy; New Zealand: There is no New Zealand Embassy in Cambodia; U.K.: No. 27 -- 29 St. 75, tel. 023/427-124.
Emergencies -- For police, dial tel. 117; for fire, dial tel. 118; and for the expat hot line, dial tel. 023/724-793.
Internet Access -- Internet outlets line riverside Sisowath Quay. Hourly access starts at $1. Friendly Web, near Capitol Guesthouse, has good access from its office at No. 199 EO, St. 107 (at the corner of Rd. 182; tel. 012/843-246). Sunny Internet Cafe has several flatscreen computers with fast ADSL connections in a bright location at 351 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023-986-629). KIDS is an NGO where American owner Bill Herod brings Internet technology to Khmer students. They have good, inexpensive access in their offices at No. 17A St. 178 (tel. 023/218-452; kids@camnet.com.kh). Many hotels and restaurants have free Wi-Fi. The best and most practical is La Croisette on Sisowath Quay.
Maps -- There are plenty of free maps available from bars and restaurants all over town. One of the best is the 3D Lets Go! Map.
Magazines & Newspapers -- Two English-language dailies are available. The Cambodia Daily carries plenty of local and national news and contains good analysis, and is the best of the two. The once internationally renowned paper of record, the Phnom Penh Post, which for many years ran as a biweekly, has now been relaunched as a daily. The Bangkok Post is also widely available. Locally produced magazines come and go in Cambodia. The best of the bunch at present is the Southeast Asia Globe. Bookshops stock a range of foreign and international magazines.
Pharmacies -- There are pharmacies all over town, but many are unreliable with outdated drugs that might do you more harm than good. The best pharmacy by far is Pharmacie De La Gare (81Eo Monivong Blvd.; tel. 023/430-205). This is a very professional outfit run to French standards.
Post Office -- The post office is in the north end of town on Street 13, east of Wat Phnom. It's open daily from 6:30am to 5pm and has standard delivery service and an international phone. DHL has an office on No. 28 Monivong Rd. (tel. 023/427-726), and FedEx is at No. 701D Monivong (tel. 023/216-712). There's also a post office at the airport in the outdoor archway between arrivals and departures (across from the Dairy Queen).
Safety -- The main hazard is traffic. Wear a motorcycle helmet when on the back of a moto. When walking around or crossing the road, stay watchful -- since all vehicles are unpredictable, anything can happen. Bag snatchings and robberies do happen. Don't leave bags dangling and don't display expensive items that might attract the wrong kind of attention.
Telephone -- The local code for Phnom Penh is 23. International direct dialing is available in most hotels and at the post office. Storefront Internet cafes along Sisowath do inexpensive Internet calls or direct dialing. Cellphones are very popular in the city, and you'll find street-side stalls on wheels where you can make local and international calls for next to nothing, with a good cellular connection.
Tourism Information -- Look out for the excellent free Canby Visitors Guide to Phnom Penh. It is available in most cafes, restaurants, and hotels, and provides very comprehensive information. The Phnom Penh Pocket Guide, also freely available around town, is up to date with information on bars and restaurants.
