ATMs -- ATMs are everywhere now in Phnom Penh and accept all internationally recognized cards. Those of the Canadia Bank levy the lowest transaction charges. All ATMs dispense U.S. dollars.

American Express -- For basic American Express services, contact Diethelm Travel (No. 65 St. 240, P.O. Box 99, Phnom Penh; tel. 023/219-151; www.diethelmtravel.com).

Banks & Currency Exchange -- ANZ Bank has many reliable international ATMs in town, the most convenient being at their riverside branch, 265 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023-726-900) Canadia Bank, at No. 265 -- 269 St. 114 (tel. 023/215-286) and Mekong Bank, at 1 St. 114 (tel. 023/217-112) are also in the downtown area and can cash traveler's checks and give cash advances. A Western Union office is at 327 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023/990-688).

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Business Hours -- Stores are generally open between 7am and 7pm from Monday to Friday. Markets close earlier and generally shutter by 5pm.

Doctors & Hospitals -- The International SOS Medical and Dental Clinic, at No. 161 St. 51 (tel. 023/216-911), is the best place to handle minor emergencies. Naga Clinic, at No. 11 St. 254 (tel. 011/811-175), is another. For any major emergency or injury, however, you'll want to arrange medical evacuation.

Embassies & Consulates -- U.S.: corner of Street 96/51, tel. 023/728-000; Canada: Represented by Australian Embassy; Australia: Villa No. 11 St. 254, tel. 023/213-470; Ireland: Represented by U.K. Embassy; New Zealand: There is no New Zealand Embassy in Cambodia; U.K.: No. 27 -- 29 St. 75, tel. 023/427-124.

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Emergencies -- For police, dial tel. 117; for fire, dial tel. 118; and for the expat hot line, dial tel. 023/724-793.

Internet Access -- Internet outlets line riverside Sisowath Quay. Hourly access starts at $1. Friendly Web, near Capitol Guesthouse, has good access from its office at No. 199 EO, St. 107 (at the corner of Rd. 182; tel. 012/843-246). Sunny Internet Cafe has several flatscreen computers with fast ADSL connections in a bright location at 351 Sisowath Quay (tel. 023-986-629). KIDS is an NGO where American owner Bill Herod brings Internet technology to Khmer students. They have good, inexpensive access in their offices at No. 17A St. 178 (tel. 023/218-452; kids@camnet.com.kh). Many hotels and restaurants have free Wi-Fi. The best and most practical is La Croisette on Sisowath Quay.

Maps -- There are plenty of free maps available from bars and restaurants all over town. One of the best is the 3D Lets Go! Map.

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Magazines & Newspapers -- Two English-language dailies are available. The Cambodia Daily carries plenty of local and national news and contains good analysis, and is the best of the two. The once internationally renowned paper of record, the Phnom Penh Post, which for many years ran as a biweekly, has now been relaunched as a daily. The Bangkok Post is also widely available. Locally produced magazines come and go in Cambodia. The best of the bunch at present is the Southeast Asia Globe. Bookshops stock a range of foreign and international magazines.

Pharmacies -- There are pharmacies all over town, but many are unreliable with outdated drugs that might do you more harm than good. The best pharmacy by far is Pharmacie De La Gare (81Eo Monivong Blvd.; tel. 023/430-205). This is a very professional outfit run to French standards.

Post Office -- The post office is in the north end of town on Street 13, east of Wat Phnom. It's open daily from 6:30am to 5pm and has standard delivery service and an international phone. DHL has an office on No. 28 Monivong Rd. (tel. 023/427-726), and FedEx is at No. 701D Monivong (tel. 023/216-712). There's also a post office at the airport in the outdoor archway between arrivals and departures (across from the Dairy Queen).

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Safety -- The main hazard is traffic. Wear a motorcycle helmet when on the back of a moto. When walking around or crossing the road, stay watchful -- since all vehicles are unpredictable, anything can happen. Bag snatchings and robberies do happen. Don't leave bags dangling and don't display expensive items that might attract the wrong kind of attention.

Telephone -- The local code for Phnom Penh is 23. International direct dialing is available in most hotels and at the post office. Storefront Internet cafes along Sisowath do inexpensive Internet calls or direct dialing. Cellphones are very popular in the city, and you'll find street-side stalls on wheels where you can make local and international calls for next to nothing, with a good cellular connection.

Tourism Information -- Look out for the excellent free Canby Visitors Guide to Phnom Penh. It is available in most cafes, restaurants, and hotels, and provides very comprehensive information. The Phnom Penh Pocket Guide, also freely available around town, is up to date with information on bars and restaurants.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.