A Sino-Portuguese home with original mosaic flooring and a collection of gramophones, Raya stands untouched and unfazed by Phuket’s love of new and shiny. There’s a lot to choose from, but we’ll cut through the noise: get the crab-meat curry with coconut milk. It features jumbo lumps of crab meat that are flavorful and tender and blend in perfect harmony with the sweet coconut milk. The stink bean salad with fish paste and grilled shrimp is also a winner, as is braised pork with pepper and garlic that so tender it falls apart with the prod of a fork. But did we mention the crab curry? That’s what why everyone is here, so don’t go without. Raya’s sister restaurant, One Chun, also serves the famous crab curry along with a host of cheaper Thai classics, like roasted duck in red curry. Find One Chun at 48/1 Thepkasattri Road; [tel] 07635-5909, open daily from 10am-10pm.