Visiting the Wine Villages
Just to the south of Alba lie some of the Piedmont’s most enchanting wine villages, sitting on hilltops among orderly rows of vines. The best way to see these villages is to drive; hire cars in Turin from Avis, Via Lessona Michele 30 (www.avis.com; (tel) 011-774-1962), Hertz, at Corso Turati 37 (www.hertz.it; (tel) 011-502-080), or Sixt, at Via Mongrando 48 (www.sixt.it; (tel) 011-888-768). Before you head out on the small country roads, provide yourself with a list of vineyards from the tourist office in Asti; a detailed map is also a good idea, in case you lose the satellite signal for your GPS.
The main road through the wine region is the S231, which runs between Alba and Asti. It is, however, a fast, busy, and unattractive highway, so turn off it to explore Piedmont’s rustic backwaters among hazelnut groves and vineyards.
One such enchanting drive heads south from Alba to a string of wine villages in the Langhe hills (follow signs out of town for Barolo on the SP3). After 8km (5 miles), take the right turn for Grinzane Cavour, a hilltop village built around a castle harboring the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour (www.castellogrinzane.com; (tel) 0173-262-159), which is open daily from 9:30am to 7pm (until 6pm Nov–Mar). Here you can sample local wines from over 300 labels; the fine restaurant is perfect for lunch.
Return to the main road, turn left, and after another 4km (2 1/2 miles) south, take the right fork to La Morra, another settlement perched among vineyards with panoramic views over the rolling, vineyard-clad countryside. There are several cafes and restaurants here in which to taste the local vintages. The Cantina Comunale di La Morra at Via Alberto 2 (www.cantinalamorra.com; (tel) 0173-509-204) represents local growers, selling Barolo, Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto. It’s open daily (except Tues) 10am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6:30pm. LaMorra’s tourist office (Piazza Martiri 1; www.lamorraturismo.it; tel. 0173/500-344) is open on Monday and Tuesday 9:30am to 1:30 p.m. and Thursday through Sunday 10am to 6pm. It is closed on Wednesday and has reduced hours in the winter.
Barolo is a handsome little village dominated by two ancient castles; it’s 5km (3 miles) along the SP58 from La Morra. Here, too, you’ll find a choice of restaurants and shops selling the world-renowned red wines from local vineyards. Among these outlets is the Castello Falletti (www.enotecadelbarolo.it; (tel) 0173-56-277; Thurs–Tues 10am–5pm), with a wine bar and an enoteca offering tastings in its cavernous cellars. They even offer Barolo and chocolate pairings.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
