The bus station (tel. 48/75-5255) is located at Calle Adela Azcuy, between Avenidas Colón and Comandante Pinares. Víazul (tel. 7/881-1413 in Havana, or 48/75-2572 in Pinar del Río; www.viazul.com) has buses at 9am, 12:40pm, and 2pm from Havana to Pinar del Río. The trip takes 2 hours and 40 minutes and costs CUC$11 each way. This bus continues on to Viñales. If you pick the bus up here, it costs CUC$6 to Viñales. From Havana to Viñales, buses cost CUC$12 one-way. Víazul buses to Havana leave Pinar del Río at 8:50am, 2:50pm, and 6:50pm daily.
Take the Autopista Nacional (A4) west to Pinar del Río. It's a straight shot, and the Autopista actually ends as it enters Pinar del Río. To get on the Autopista Nactional from Havana, drive south out of Havana on Av. Independencia. At the spaghetti junction at Alturas de la Habana, turn right on Av. San Francisco (Calle 100). At a second spaghetti junction, turn left (west) onto the unsigned Autopista (A4) for Viñales. (Just before Pinar del Río, there's a sign marked Las Ovas to the east/right: this is the western route, a winding cross-country shortcut to Viñales.) Two alternative routes are the old Carretera Central, which runs roughly parallel to the newer Autopista, and connects Havana with Pinar del Río, and the Circuito Norte or "northern circuit," a road that runs from Havana to Mariel to Bahía Honda. At La Palma, you'll want to head south on the Viñales highway and then on to Pinar del Río. Both of these routes are two-lane affairs that are slower and more picturesque than the Autopista. On either of these, slow-moving ox carts and trucks combine with bicycle traffic, pedestrians, and potholes to slow you down -- not a bad thing if you want to take in some of the scenery. I recommend integrating the Circuito Norte route into an itinerary that encompasses Pinar del Río, Viñales, and either Cayo Levisa or Cayo Jutías.