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Maria Luisa Bignardi provided Pisa with its only truly remarkable place to stay when she converted her family mansion into refined yet relaxing guest quarters. The large garden and cozy top floor “attic” lounge provide a relaxing refuge from the crowds in the Campo, just a 5-minute walk away, and guest rooms are filled with family heirlooms, some colorful architectural details, and lots of 21st-century conveniences, including excellent beds and marble bathrooms. Some of the rooms are quite small, though for a bit extra you can settle into a larger room or one overlooking the garden. Signora Bignardi also runs the 12-room Relais dei Fiori, Via Carducci 35 (tel 050-556-054; www.relaisdeifiori.com), where small but very attractive doubles start at 70€. At both, travelers 65 and older get a 20 percent discount in some periods.