For eats in Pisac, check out Ulrike's Café, Plaza de Armas 828 (tel. 084/203-195), a relaxed spot on the main square. Run by a German expat, Ulrike's is a genial and inexpensive place for any meal, from breakfast to hearty lunches and vegetarian options, such as homemade lasagna, omelets, salads, and great desserts (like Ulrike's famous strudel or any number of cheesecakes). For a snack or lunch on the run, check out the excellent hornos coloniales (colonial bakeries), which use traditional, wood-fired ovens; one, called Santa Lucía, is on the corner of the main square next to Hotel Pisaq, while the other (unnamed) on Mariscal Castilla 372, a short walk from the plaza. Both serve excellent empanadas and breads, and are especially popular on market days (often selling out of empanadas by 2pm). Another good lunch or dinner option is Ayahuasca, Bolognesi s/n (tel. 084/797-625), a cute little cafe a couple blocks from the Plaza, on the way to the bus stops. You can get a simply prepared but very good-value menu (lomo saltado and other classic Peruvian highlander dishes) for just S/10.

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