THE RESTAURANT THAT WAS BORN WITH THE TOWN, proclaims the sign. The wood hut doesn't look like much, but there are tables right on the beach, and the owners are fishermen. The catch of the day is so fresh it's practically wiggling. If you haven't tried the Yucatecan specialty Tikinxic -- fish with achiote and bitter-orange sauce, cooked in a banana leaf -- this is a good place to start.