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Built in 1932 on the site of an earlier, more humble structure, Kontum's main church is still a busy place, and on Sunday ministers to a large population of the converted, mostly ethnic hilltribe villagers from the surrounding hills. Check out the intricately carved mantles over the main entrances and the cool, contemporary stained glass featuring modern saints -- the likes of French missionaries wearing cravats. A model of a Bannar house is in the courtyard, as is a glowing white statue of Mary and child. The orphanage at the back of the main church building is a wild, cacophonous experience. Prepare yourself. A short walk down the steps, and you're attacked by groups of youngsters eager and well accustomed to talking and goofing with foreign visitors (also keen for the sweets and gifts that many visitors bring with them). These children, most orphaned by disease, are cared for by nuns, and visitors are welcome to volunteer their services. In fact, I met a small contingent of Americans doing relief work at the school.