Planning a trip to Poland

Insurance

Medical Insurance

Foreign citizens are obliged to pay for any medical services they receive in Poland, so it's worth checking whether your home health insurance will cover you while you are abroad and, if not, how to supplement your insurance. Insurance providers offer a wide range of policies that are cost-effective and valuable for travelers.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or contact Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated abroad.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 845/605-0707, or 44/191-212-7500 from abroad; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or trip cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel.020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 800/523-8020; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air/hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers:Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel.800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Calendar of Events

The calendar is filled with festivals of all kinds; the most popular are connected to religious dates or Poland's folk or cultural traditions. The annual Marian pilgrimages culminate in August at the Jasna Góra shrine in Czestochowa for the Feast of the Assumption on August 15. Warsaw, Kraków, Wrocaw, and Poznan all host various jazz and classical music festivals throughout the year. Check with local tourist information offices when you arrive to see what's going on during the time you're there. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Shanties: International Sailors' Song Festival, Kraków. A true anomaly for a landlocked city, each February, Kraków hosts this international festival dedicated to maritime and sailors' songs (think nautical poetry and ballads). Events are held around town. Call tel. 12/423-22-36 or visit www.shanties.pl.

April

Cracovia Marathon, Kraków. Kraków's marathon draws well over 1,000 runners each spring. Call tel. 12/616-63-00 or visit www.cracoviamaraton.pl.

Ludwig van Beethoven Festival, Warsaw. Though this Easter festival bears Beethoven's name, it's not just about him. The program features a variety of classical composers. The festival unfolds over 2 weeks, timed to coincide with the Easter holidays. Concerts are held around town. Call tel. 22/331-91-91 or visit www.beethoven.org.pl.

May

Film Music Festival, Kraków. Three days of concerts dedicated to music composed for the silver screen. Composers join audiences for concerts accompanying film showings at various venues. Call tel. 12/424-96-50 or visit www.fmf.fm.

Florianski Fair, Warsaw. This popular street fair takes place across the river in Warsaw's gritty but lively district of Praga. The highlight is a street market bustling with antiques, crafts, and foods. On the card are live bands and local celebs. For details, visit http://en.praga-pn.waw.pl.

International Book Fair, Warsaw. A strong line-up of international writers and publishers attend this event held at the Stalin-era Palace of Culture & Science. Call tel. 22/509-86-00 or check out www.bookfair.pl.

Juwenalia, Kraków. A fun fair dedicated to the city's thousands of students. In a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages, the mayor gives the students the keys to the city. Lots of concerts, parades, and shows. Lots of alcohol, too. Call tel. 12/633-35-38 or visit http://juwenalia.krakow.pl.

Night of Museums, Warsaw. For one night each May, the city's museums, galleries, and other art institutions stay open late into the night. Part of the fun is visiting the exhibits, but mostly, it's a late-night street party. For more information, visit http://noc-muzeow.pl.

June

Fair Hetmanski, Zamosc. Lots of fun if you're into handicrafts and Renaissance culture; events are held on the city's large market square. Lots of music and food, and plenty of things to buy. Early June.

Jewish Culture Festival, Kraków. Over the past decade, this festival of Jewish culture, music, dance, and film has evolved into one of the city's premier events. Most of the action takes place in Kraków's historic Jewish district, Kazimierz. Synagogues, cafes, and outdoor venues celebrate the richness of Jewish culture. Street musicians play klezmer tunes, and everyone ends up dancing. Book well in advance; the festival draws thousands. Call tel. 12/431-15-17 or visit www.jewishfestival.pl.

Malta International Theater Festival, Poznan. A week of street theater and events draws tens of thousands of people to the country's biggest festival dedicated to the dramatic arts. Visit www.malta-festival.pl.

Selector Festival, Kraków. Fans of dance, trance, electronic, and techno arrive by the thousands for 2 days of gigs from top bands and DJs. Visit www.selectorfestival.pl.

Sonisphere, Warsaw. A festival of rock and metal music held in the Warsaw suburb of Lotnisko Bemowo. Past acts include Metallica, Slayer, Anthrax, and Megadeth. Visit http://pl.sonispherefestivals.com.

Warsaw Chamber Opera Mozart Festival. Reputedly the only company in the world to present all of Mozart's stage works every year. Call tel. 22/831-22-40.

Wianki & Free Music Festival, Kraków. This pagan-era fertility festival features maidens floating garlands (wianki) down the river to predict when they'll be married (and to whom), as well as top Polish and international music acts. After the concerts, crowds head to the city's bars and clubs. Call tel. 12/424-96-50 or visit www.wianki.krakow.pl.

July

Chopiniana, Warsaw. Concerts, theater, film, and ballet performances dedicated to the composer whom the capital claims as its own. Performances take place in venues connected to the composer's life. Call tel. 22/620-39-62 or visit www.mckis.waw.pl.

Crossroads Traditional Music Festival, Kraków. This annual music festival fills the streets of Kraków with folk music from the nearby Tatra Mountains. Many concerts take place in Kraków's Market Square (Rynek Glówny), with musicians mixing traditional folk with genres such as jazz. Call tel. 12/424-96-50 or visit www.rozstaje.pl.

International Street Arts Festival, Warsaw. Warsaw's biggest outdoor festival of music and dramatic arts, with performances in 20 or so of the city's most popular spots. Visit www.sztukaulicy.pl.

International Street & Open-Air Theaters Festival, Gdansk. The streets of Gdansk come alive each July for the annual FETA festival, which features jugglers, mimes, stilt walkers, dancers, and storytellers from around the world. Call tel.) 58/557-42-47 or visit www.feta.pl.

St Dominic's Fair, Gdansk. Lively 3-week street fair of arts and crafts in Gdansk's Old Town that goes back some 750 years. Most events take place in Dugi Targ, one of the city's nicest areas. Call tel. 58/554-92-00 or visit www.mtgsa.com.pl.

StreetArt International Festival of Street Theater, Kraków. Kraków's main market square plays host to magicians, jugglers, and puppeteers in one of the oldest medieval-style festivals in Central Europe. Call tel. 12/623-73-00 or visit http://teatrkto.pl.

Summer Jazz Days, Warsaw. One of the continent's leading jazz festivals, drawing international stars and emerging names to the Palace of Culture and Science. The program includes a concert of avant-garde jazz and free open air performances in Warsaw's Plac Zamkowy. Call tel. 22/620-50-72 or visit www.adamiakjazz.pl.

August

Chopin and His Europe International Music Festival, Warsaw. Inaugurated in 2005, "Chopin and His Europe" not surprisingly celebrates the life and work of Fryderyk Chopin. A number of venues across Warsaw, including the city's Philharmonic Hall, host concerts. Call tel. 22/441-61-17 or check out http://en.chopin.nifc.pl/festival.

Coke Live Music Festival, Kraków. Festival of indie and pop music held over 2 days and three stages at the airfield of Kraków's Aviation Museum. There's space to pitch a tent, as well as bathroom facilities and food stalls. The festival traditionally lures some of the biggest names in popular music. Visit www.livefestival.pl.

Feast of the Assumption, Czestochowa. Draws tens of thousands of pilgrims annually to the Jasna Góra monastery. If you're planning to visit during this period, be sure to book your accommodation far in advance. August 15.

Gdansk Shakespeare Festival. Both Polish and international theater companies come to the Baltic shoreline to host traditional and experimental versions of Shakespeare's plays. There are also concerts and a parade. Call tel. 58/300-01-70 or visit the festival website at www.shakespearefestival.pl.

International Mime Art Festival, Warsaw. Mimes. Love 'em or hate 'em, the Polish capital hosts Europe's largest mime fest. Theater companies from across Europe and the world take part. Call tel. 22/632-03-60 or visit www.mime.pl.

Music in Old Kraków. A 17-day event filled with classical concerts and recitals at venues around the city. Visit www.muzykawstarymkrakowie.eu.

Singer's Jewish Culture Festival, Warsaw. This popular festival hosts exhibitions, films, music, and theater performances relating to the history of Warsaw's Jewish community. Events are held around Plac Grzybowski. Call tel. 22/850-56-56 or visit http://festiwalsingera.pl.

International Highlanders' Folk Festival, Zakopane. One of the oldest and biggest folk events in Poland. Highlanders from all over the world congregate in Zakopane to celebrate their customs through regional costumes, music, and dance. Call tel. 18/206-69-50 or visit www.mffzg.pl.

September

Autumn Contemporary Music Festival, Warsaw. This acclaimed festival presents contemporary classical music from around the world. Concerts are held at the National Philharmonic Hall and other city venues. Call tel. 22/635-92-38 or visit http://warszawska-jesien.art.pl.

Cross Culture Festival, Warsaw. Musicians gather at the Palace of Culture and Science for a week-long series of concerts celebrating world music in all its diversity. Films and workshops are also included on the program. Call tel. 22/849-32-86 or visit www.estrada.com.pl/46.

Festival of Four Cultures, Lódz. This popular music, culture, and film festival celebrates the city's traditional point at the crossroads of four cultures: Polish, German, Jewish, and Russian. Call tel. 42/636-38-21 or visit http://en.4kultury.pl.

Wratislavia Cantans, Wrocaw. The annual Wratislavia Cantans celebrates sacred choral music. If it sounds boring, it's anything but. The quality of the performances is outstanding, and the atmosphere is nothing short of riveting. Call tel. 71/330-52-10 or visit www.wratislaviacantans.pl.

October

International Film Festival, Warsaw. One of Europe's leading international film festivals offers a great chance to see dozens of films you might never see anywhere else. Visit www.wff.pl.

Rawa Blues Festival, Katowice. Reputedly the world's largest indoor blues festival, it takes place in Katowice's futuristic Spodek concert hall. Visit www.rawablues.com.

November

All Souls' Jazz Festival, Kraków. Poland's oldest jazz festival takes place every year around All Souls' Day (Nov 2). Musicians from around the world perform in bars, churches, and other venues across town. Visit www.krakowskiezaduszkijazzowe.xt.pl.

Jazz Jamboree, Warsaw. For more than 50 years, the Jazz Jamboree has been bringing jazz to the Polish capital. Concerts are held in various venues, including Teatr Polski. Call tel. 22/827-39-26 or visit www.jazz-jamboree.pl.

Jazz Jantar Festival, Gdansk. The Zak Club in Gdansk is the traditional host of the annual Jazz Jantar Festival of improvised music. The event showcases experimental compositions and lots of blues. Call tel. 58/344-05-73 or visit http://jazzjantar.pl.

St. Martin's Day, Poznan. November 11 is a day of pageantry, featuring St Martin himself riding on a white horse accompanied by jugglers, clowns, stilt walkers, and lots of hangers-on. There are parades and festivities until well into the night, as well as the traditional eating of the St. Martin crescent-shaped buns, tasty croissants you can find around town. Visit www.poznan.pl.

December

New Year's Eve, Kraków. New Year's Eve brings thousands of revelers to Kraków's main square to celebrate with fireworks and live music. Large screens help the crowds see all the action onstage. This website can help guide you to the festivities www.wownight.eu.

Christmas Market, Warsaw. Poland's capital comes alive during Christmas. The center of the action is the beautifully restored Old Town, with market stalls, filled with gifts and holiday food. In Zamkowy (Castle) Square, the Christmas tree is lit at night.

Health & Safety

A trip to Poland poses no unusual health concerns, aside from the bromides of not overindulging in food and, especially, drink, and looking both ways before you cross the streets (especially for trams). Still, there are a few things to keep in mind.

General Availability of Health Care

Polish health care is generally good and of high standard. Hospitals and doctors' offices may look shabby on the outside, but they are acceptably clean and well maintained. Polish dentists have a reputation around Europe for high-quality work and are usually much cheaper than their American or U.K. counterparts. Travelers do not require any specific shots before a trip to Poland, and aside from vaccinations against tick-bite encephalitis if you plan on doing a lot of hiking or sleeping in the open, none are advised.

Poland has relaxed its rules for selling over-the-counter medications, and you can now usually find things like aspirin, cold medicines, cough syrup, and the like at convenience stores and large service stations. Still, it's best to bring along extra aspirin or Tylenol (or whatever you're used to) so as to minimize time looking around if you need to buy some. Pharmacies also sell common over-the-counter remedies, as well as all prescription drugs, but bring along extra doses of prescription medications since the local pharmacist may not recognize your doctor's prescription.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Meat is a staple of Polish cooking, and vegetarians will have to pre-plan to avoid seeing it show up on their plate. Even seemingly "safe" options such as pierogi "Ruskie" style (stuffed with potato and cheese) may come covered in bacon drippings.

Bugs & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Mosquitoes are rampant in Poland, particularly in forested areas and near lakes and rivers, and can be a major nuisance. Be sure to pack strong mosquito repellant and some after-bite cream to reduce itching and swelling when you are inevitably bitten. Most pharmacies stock these if you forget to bring them.

Tick-bite encephalitis is also a problem, and you're strongly advised to get vaccinated if you plan on spending a lot of time hiking and/or sleeping in woods and fields. Always check your body thoroughly for ticks at the end of a long day of hiking and be sure to seek medical attention if you're concerned. Poisonous snakes and spiders are rare and not usually a problem.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Polish air quality is improving, though during winter, you may encounter short periods of poor air quality, particularly in the industrial areas around Katowice and Kraków. Residents are usually advised to stay inside on bad air days.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- The sun is a constant danger, so be sure to pack plenty of sunscreen. Choose a higher SPF if you plan to spend a day on the beach or skiing in the mountains. Also, don't forget to bring along a hat, sunglasses, a long-sleeved shirt, and good sunscreen on summer mountain hikes, where you may be exposed to the sun for hours at a time.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Polish medical care is good; rest assured that if something bad does happen on your vacation, you'll receive adequate care. In an emergency, immediately call tel. 112 (general emergency) or tel. 999 (ambulance). Most operators are trained to understand at least a little bit of English. Slowly try to explain the problem and your location, and an ambulance will come as quickly as possible to take you to the nearest hospital. Be sure to take along your passport, as well as some means of payment (cash or credit card).

Though Poles have universal medical coverage, foreign visitors are obliged to cover the total costs of any medical care they get in Poland. It's worth checking before you arrive whether your health insurance will cover you while you are abroad and, if not, how to supplement your insurance to get international coverage. Usually, you will have to pay any hospital fees out of pocket and then try to reclaim the costs later through your insurance. Retain all of the hospital paperwork, since you can never be sure what the insurance company might ask for.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or contact Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated abroad.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which covers emergency treatment.

In addition to the publicly financed health system, Poland has several excellent private medical clinics. These often offer higher standards and more personalized care, though they are usually more expensive. Additionally, they may be familiar with your insurance company and be able to bill directly. In Warsaw, the LIM Medical Center (Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79; tel. 22/458-70-00; www.cmlim.pl) is centrally located in the Marriott complex and staffs a full range of English-speaking doctors and specialists. For other cities, check with your hotel or the local tourist information office.

Safety

Poland is a relatively safe country, and travelers should not have any major safety or security concerns. The biggest potential threat is likely to be crime. Petty theft, pick-pocketing, and car break-ins remain a problem. Watch your wallets and purses in crowded areas, particularly areas frequented by tourists. Always park your car in a well-lit area and use hotel or guarded parking lots in urban areas. Never leave valuables in the car or packages in plain view, as this may invite a break-in. Bike theft is rife. Never leave a bike unattended for more than a few minutes (even if it is securely locked) and always store it inside overnight. Hotels will often have a special area for storing bikes; otherwise, simply take it with you to your room.

Though robberies and violent crime are rare, it's best to avoid seedy areas at night (such as Warsaw's Praga neighborhood or parts of Lódz, or around train stations in any city). This is particularly strong advice for single women travelers, though in most other instances, women shouldn't encounter difficulties in Poland.

Polish police and law-enforcement agencies are invariably friendly and helpful to tourists, but they take a dim view toward public drunkenness. If you're out drinking, it's best to keep it down and keep your cool, otherwise you might find yourself spending a night in the drunk tank.

Drugs of any kind, including marijuana, are strictly illegal, and anti-drug laws are rigorously enforced. If you're caught with illegal drugs, you're best advised to contact your local embassy or consulate immediately, though you're unlikely to find much sympathy there or among law-enforcement agencies.

Prostitution is legal, though it's unregulated and potentially high-risk. While you probably won't see prostitutes standing on street corners in big cities, you may occasionally see them along highways, offering their services to passing truckers and other motorists. The "bars" you see along highways are often little more than brothels for truckers. You'll also find plenty of nightclubs, strip joints, escort agencies, and massage parlors around. Many of these are more or less legitimate businesses, but some are fronts for prostitution or organized crime. If you choose to patronize one of these places, minimize your risk by taking only small sums of money with you and leaving your credit cards back at the hotel. Maintain a high state of awareness and be prepared to leave at the slightest sign that something's not right.

While Poland is ethnically and racially homogenous, travelers from other countries and of different races are not likely to encounter overt discrimination. Homosexuality is publicly frowned upon, but openly gay travelers are not likely to experience specific problems. Gay couples are advised to avoid open displays of affection, though it's unlikely anything bad would happen.

Remember to be respectful around churches, particularly during masses. Make sure to wear appropriate dress. The rules aren't too strict on this, but in practice, women should cover their shoulders and avoid too-short skirts; men should wear long pants. Both sexes should wear shoes. Also, be sure to heed any prohibitions against making noise or taking photos, videos, or using flash photography.

Finally, be sure to donate something, however small, at the entrance if the church is not taking an admission fee. Many churches wouldn't be able to survive without visitor donations.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Poland's country code is 48. To dial Poland from abroad, dial the international access code (011 in the U.S.), plus 48 and the local Poland area code. The area code for Warsaw, for example, is 22, so a call from the U.S. to Warsaw would begin 011-48-22, plus the local number. To call long distance within Poland, dial the city's area code, plus the number. To dial a number in Warsaw from another city in Poland, for example, you would dial 22, plus the local number. To dial abroad from within Poland, dial 00 and then the country code and area code to where you are calling. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1, meaning that a call to the U.S. from Poland would begin 00-1, plus the area code and local number.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax

You'll find Western Union outlets throughout Poland for wiring money or to have it wired to you quickly, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent.

Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it).

Cellphones

Polish cellphones operate on a GSM band of 900/1800MHz. This is the same standard in use throughout Europe but different from the one used in the United States. U.S. mobiles will work here, provided they are tri-band phones (not all phones are tri-band) and that you've contacted your service provider to allow for international roaming. Keep calls to a minimum, however, since roaming charges can be steep.

U.K. mobiles should work without any problem, provided that you've contacted your service provider to activate international roaming (the same precautions about steep prices apply to U.K. mobiles).

One way of avoiding international roaming charges is to purchase a pay-as-you-go SIM card for your cellphone and a pre-paid calling card. This provides you with a local number and allows you to make calls and send text messages at local rates. All the major local telephone operators offer this service.

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet Access

Internet cafes are ubiquitous throughout Warsaw, Kraków, and other large cities. Internet cafes generally charge around 6 z per hour of Internet use. Many hotels now set aside at least one public computer for guests to use. Nearly all hotels these days offer some type of in-room Internet access, either via LAN connection or wireless, and a growing number of cafes offer wireless Internet, though connections can be spotty.

With Your Own Computer or Smartphone -- Nearly every hotel from a two-star property on up will offer some kind of in-room Internet access. Most often these days, this will be wireless, though occasionally it will be a LAN (dataport) connection. If the hotel offers LAN connections, they usually also loan out Ethernet cables for guests to use during their stay. Check with the reception desk. If having a good in-room Internet connection is important to you, make this clear when you register for your room. Wi-Fi signal strength drops off considerably the farther your room is from the router. Though the hotel may generally offer Wi-Fi, some rooms may not be close enough to make this practical.

Also, be sure to ask before you check in whether the Internet is working that day. The hotel may advertise in-room Internet access knowing full well the Internet is on the blink and is not likely to be fixed anytime soon.

Even if your hotel doesn't offer in-room Internet, there are usually lots of options for logging on with your own laptop. A surprising number of cafes, restaurants, and bars now offer free Wi-Fi to customers with a purchase. You may have to finagle a bit with the password (particularly if it uses Polish letters), but you'll normally be able to get it to work. Look for Costa Coffee outlets (www.costacoffee.com), which -- in addition to having excellent coffee -- also usually offer reliable, free Wi-Fi connections.

To locate Wi-Fi hotspots in Poland (and around the world), go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Without Your Own Computer or Smartphone -- Many hotels will have a public computer or a business center for guests to use. If your hotel doesn't and you just want to check e-mail, it's sometimes worth asking at the reception desk whether you can use the hotel's computer for a few minutes. The answer is likely to be yes if it's a small place and the reception desk is not busy at the time.

Your hotel receptionist will certainly know the location of the nearest Internet cafe. The number of Internet cafes has stagnated in recent years as more and more people have gotten their own home computers, but most towns and cities will have at least a couple of cyber hangouts, usually stuffed to the gills with teens playing video games. Internet cafes have reasonable rates and charge around 6 z per hour.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

Polish food, built as it is around pork and game, is not particularly vegetarian-friendly, though there are plenty of meatless items on menus that you can build a meal around. Pierogi "Ruskie," for example, are stuffed with potato and cheese, but be sure to ask them to hold the bacon bits they sometimes throw on top. Other popular meatless pierogi fillings include cabbage and wild mushroom.

Green Way (www.greenway.pl) is an inexpensive and excellent chain of vegetarian restaurants with branches around the country, including in Warsaw, Kraków, Katowice, Gdansk, Poznan, and Lódz.

For more vegetarian-friendly travel resources, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Women Travelers

Solo women travelers will face no extraordinary safety or security issues in Poland. Women should avoid walking alone in unsavory areas at night, but at most other times, there are no special dangers.

For general travel resources for women, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Getting There

By Plane

Warsaw's Frederic Chopin airport (WAW) is the major air gateway into Poland, with extensive connections throughout Europe and some nonstop flights to North America. Warsaw is well served by the major European flag carriers, including Poland's LOT, British Airways, Czech Airlines (CSA), Air France, KLM, and Lufthansa, as well as a growing number of budget carriers. See Warsaw's "Getting There" for more details. Kraków's Jan Pawe II Airport (KRK) is the country's second-most-important airport and is also easy to reach from nearly any large city in Europe and includes at least one nonstop to North America. The advent of low-cost budget carriers in Europe in recent years has opened up several other major cities to regular and convenient air travel, including Lódz (LCJ), Poznan (POZ), Wrocaw (WRO), and Gdansk (GDN).

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- Immigrations and customs clearance is relatively straightforward and shouldn't take too long. Incoming passengers will be divided into two groups for passport control: "EU" and "All Others," the latter being where travelers from the U.S., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand must go. Customs is a breeze. If you're an ordinary traveler with nothing to declare, simply sail through the green-marked line (if you need to declare something, you'll have to go through the red line). You'll rarely even be asked to open your suitcase.

By Car

Poland is easily accessible by car, and Polish highways are well integrated into the larger EU highway grid. If entering from an EU country (Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, or Lithuania), you no longer have to stop to show a passport. Standard border controls are still in effect if traveling to or from Ukraine, Belarus, or the Russian Federation.

Car rental agencies are ubiquitous in Poland and include most of the major international agencies, such as Hertz, as well as locally owned companies. Spot rental rates can be high -- much higher than in the United States. It's often cheaper to rent in advance over the Internet. Rentals will usually include the legally required third-party liability insurance but will not include things like vehicle theft or damage. Be sure to ask what is covered. Most cars will have standard transmissions, but some agencies may offer cars with automatic transmission at a much higher price. The minimum age to rent a car is usually 21, though it can be higher at some agencies.

Before setting off, be sure to buy a good Polish road atlas (the excellent Polska Atlas Samochodowy is available at large service stations). Better yet, car satellite navigation systems, such as Garmin, have become very popular in the past few years. If you have one and plan on driving during your trip, certainly consider bringing it along with you. Make sure that you have the proper maps installed. Most GPS systems include Poland in their "European maps," but be sure to check. If you don't have a sat-nav system but are renting a car, ask the rental agency to include one with the car. A functioning satellite navigation system will spare you hours of frustration behind the wheel.

By Train

Poland is easy to get to by train. The Polish national rail network, PKP (www.pkp.pl), is well integrated into the Europe-wide rail system. Poznan and Warsaw lie on the main east-west line running from Berlin to Moscow. Kraków is easily accessible from Prague, Vienna, and points south, though many connections will require you to change trains at Katowice.

By Bus

International bus travel has become less popular in recent years due to the arrival of the budget air carriers, which often match bus ticket prices but get you there much more quickly. Nevertheless, the Polish national bus carrier works in cooperation with the trans-European carrier Eurolines, and large Polish cities are easy to reach by bus.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The main unit of currency is the zoty (z), which is divided (in theory) into 100 groszy (gr). Bills come in denominations of 10 z, 20 z, 50 z, 100 z, and 200 z. The most useful coins are the 5 z, 2 z, and 1 z. You'll also see less-useful coins of 50 gr, 10 gr, 2 gr, and rarely, 1 gr. At press time, $1 equaled about 3.20 z.

Though Poland is a member of the European Union, the euro does not circulate in Poland and cannot be used for making purchases. The government recently committed itself to adopting the euro at some point in the future, but that date is still considered to be fairly far off. For convenience's sake, some hotels will quote their rates in euros and accept euros as payment, but in general, it's best to carry local currency.

Poland is not as cheap a destination as it was a few years ago, but it remains generally less expensive than Western Europe. Prices for everyday travel expenses, such as food and drink, hotels, and museum admissions, are substantially less than they would be in Paris or London. The exceptions are rental cars, five-star hotels, and imported clothing and other imported luxury goods, for which prices are as high here as anywhere else.

You can change money at nearly any bank or exchange office, identified in Polish as a kantor. You'll see these privately run exchanges everywhere, but be sure to shop around for the best rates and fees, since these differ from office to office.

You'll get a decent, no-hassle exchange rate simply by using your credit or debit card at a bank ATM. In large cities and towns, you'll see an ATM on nearly every block. Before you leave home, be sure to alert your bank or credit card company that you will be traveling abroad. The bank or card company could block your card if security personnel see unusual charges coming through (such as purchases coming from Poland if you don't usually travel here). Also, make sure your card has a four-digit PIN code, since some Polish ATMs cannot take longer codes.

Credit cards are gaining in popularity and are now almost universally accepted at hotels and expensive restaurants. The most popular cards are American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa. Travelers' checks can still be cashed at large banks but are almost more of a hassle than they are worth since they aren't usually accepted at shops, hotels, or restaurants.

What Things Cost (in Poland z)

Taxi from the airport 60

Double room, moderate 250

Double room, inexpensive 180

3-course dinner without wine 45

Bottle of decent beer 7

Bottle of Coca-Cola 7

Good cup of coffee 8

Tram or bus ticket 2.50

Gallon (4L) of gasoline 18

Admission to a museum (adult) 7

Admission to national park 5

Tips for Single Travelers

Single travelers will encounter no specific problems in Poland. Most hotels set aside at least a few rooms for single occupancy, though prices are often nearly as high as for double occupancy. Single diners at restaurants may have to work a little harder to get a waiter's attention but face no unique difficulties.

For more information on traveling single, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Fast Facts

American Express -- The office (Chodna 51; (tel. 22/581-51-00) is open weekdays 9am to 7pm and Saturday 10am to 3pm.

Area Codes -- Poland's country code is 48 (011-48 from the U.S.). Area codes for major cities include: Warsaw (22), Kraków (12), Gdansk (58), Wrocaw (71), Lódz (42), and Lublin (81).

Automobile Organizations -- The Polish Motoring Association (Polski Zwiazek Motorowy/PZM; Kazimierzowska 66; tel. 22/849-93-61; www.pzm.pl) is Poland's main automobile club. It promotes road safety, publishes maps, and conducts driving lessons. For visitors, the most useful service is its 24-hour nationwide emergency breakdown hotline: tel. 9637.

Business Hours -- Stores and offices are generally open weekdays 9am to 6pm. Banks are open weekdays 9am to 4pm. Many stores have limited Saturday hours, usually 9am to noon. Large shopping centers and malls are open 7 days a week from 10am until at least 8pm. Museums and other tourist attractions are often closed on Mondays.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for buying and consuming alcohol is 18, though ID checks are not common. Alcoholic beverages are widely available and can be bought just about anywhere, including convenience stores, tourist shops, grocery stores, and naturally, in shops specializing in liquor. Though alcohol is easy to get, police take a dim view of public drunkenness, and fines for a night in the drunk tank are steep. The legal blood alcohol limit for driving is 0.02% -- approximately one beer. Spot alcohol checks are frequent.

Electricity -- Polish outlets follow the continental norm (220V, 50Hz) with two round plugs. Most appliances that run on 110V will require a transformer.

Embassies & Consulates -- All foreign embassies are located in the capital, Warsaw, though some countries maintain consulates in Kraków and other large cities.

The United States Embassy is located at Ujazdowskie 29/31 (tel. 22/625-14-01; http://poland.usembassy.gov). There's also a U.S. consulate in Kraków (Stolarska 9; tel. 12/424-51-83; http://krakow.usconsulate.gov).

The embassy of Australia is situated on the third floor of the Nautilus building (Nowogrodzka 11; tel. 22/521-34-44; www.poland.embassy.gov.au).

The embassy of Canada is at ul. Jana Matejki 1/5 (tel. 22/584-31-00; www.canadainternational.gc.ca).

The embassy of Ireland is at Mysia 5 (tel. 22/849-66-33; www.embassyofireland.pl).

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Kawalerii 12 (tel. 22/311-00-00; www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk).

Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial the following numbers: Police tel. 997, Fire tel. 998, Ambulance tel. 999, Road Assistance tel. 981 or tel. 9637 (Polish motoring association/PZM). The general emergency number if using a cell phone is tel. 112.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Unleaded gasoline, benzyna, is widely available; a green-marked tank with "95" is regular octane and "98" is high-test. Most stations are self-serve, but occasionally, you'll still find a gas attendant. He'll fill up your tank and wash your windows, and expect a zoty or two as a tip. Gasoline is sold by the liter, with one U.S. gallon equal to about 3.8 liters. At press time, a liter of gas costs about 4.40 z.

Holidays -- Poland observes the following holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day); Easter Sunday and Monday; May 1 (State Holiday); May 3 (Constitution Day); Corpus Christi (ninth Thurs following Easter Sun); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints' Day); November 11 (Independence Day); and December 25 and 26 (Christmas). Offices, banks, museums, and many stores are closed on holidays, though some larger stores and restaurants remain open.

Hospitals -- Medical standards in Poland are generally acceptable, and if something should happen during your trip, you can be confident that you will receive adequate care. In terms of private medical facilities, in Warsaw, the LIM Medical Center is centrally located in the Marriott complex and staffs a full range of English-speaking doctors and specialists (Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79; tel. 22/458-70-00; www.cmlim.pl). For dentists, the Austria-Dent-Centre (Zelazna 54; tel. 22/654-21-16; www.austriadent.pl) is highly recommended.

Hotlines -- The Polish national tourist organization and the police operate a special tourist hotline (tel. 800/200-300) in season from May through September for visitors to check safety conditions and report dangerous situations. The hotline is available in English, German, and Russian.

Legal Aid -- The police are authorized to collect fines on the spot for minor infractions, such as speeding. It's usually futile to try to argue your case, and you're best advised simply to pay the fine and move on. For more serious crimes, there are few legal resources at your disposal. Contact your local embassy or consulate immediately.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to alert all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. In Poland, to report a lost or stolen Visa, call tel. 800/111-15-69; MasterCard, call tel. 800/111-12-11. To report a lost Amex card, call tel. 22/581-51-00 during business hours.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (www.westernunion.com), which maintains offices throughout Poland.

Mail -- Postal rates vary by weight, and it's always safest to have letters weighed at the post office in order to ensure the proper postage. The rate for mailing a postcard or light letter abroad will run about 4 z. The postal service is generally reliable, but don't trust it for highly valuable packages or letters that simply must arrive. For that, use FedEx, DHL, or another trackable delivery service.

Measurements -- Poland uses the metric system.

Medical Conditions -- Be sure to bring along extra quantities of any prescription medications you will need on your trip. Poland's pharmacies are well stocked, but the pharmacist may not recognize your doctor's prescription. Also, know the generic term for the drug (e.g. acetaminophen for Tylenol) since brand names can differ in different countries.

Newspapers & Magazines -- You'll find newspapers and magazines widely available at kiosks in city centers and at train and bus stations, though most kiosks stock only Polish titles. English newspapers and magazines usually available include the International Herald Tribune, the Wall Street Journal, The Economist, The Financial Times, and The Guardian. In terms of local English publications, Warsaw has a few, including the weekly Warsaw Voice and the monthly Warsaw Insider. The Warsaw Business Journal is a weekly publication on market news. New Poland Express is a weekly electronic publication; you can subscribe to at www.newpolandexpress.pl. Also, keep an eye out for regular editions of the irreverent Poland In Your Pocket city guides for Warsaw, Kraków, Gdansk, Lódz, Katowice, and Wrocaw. You can usually find them at tourist information offices or in lobbies of large hotels.

Police -- The police emergency number is tel. 997. If calling from a mobile phone, dial tel. 112.

Smoking -- Smoking rates tend to be higher in Poland than in the U.S., though increasingly, cafes and restaurants are setting aside more tables for nonsmokers. Many hotels are now completely smoke-free, and almost all hotels offer nonsmoking rooms or rooms that are on totally nonsmoking floors. Be sure to request this in advance.

Taxes -- All taxes, including a 22% value added tax levied on most goods and excise duties on tobacco, alcohol, and gasoline, are already calculated in the purchase price. Buyers with permanent residency outside the European Union are entitled to reclaim VAT on purchases above 200 z, provided the goods are permanently taken out of the EU within 3 months from the date of purchase. Look for shops with "Tax Free Shopping" in the window for details.

Time -- Poland is in the Central European Time zone (CET), 1 hour ahead of GMT and 6 hours ahead of the eastern United States. Daylight Saving Time is in effect from early spring until late autumn. Daylight Saving Time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of Standard Time.

Tipping -- In restaurants, round up the bill by 10% to reward good service. Bellhops, taxi drivers, and tour guides will also expect a small amount in return for services rendered. Around 5 z to 10 z is usually enough under any circumstances.

Toilets -- Public toilets are a relative rarity, so you'll find yourself seeking out nearby restaurants or hotels, and asking to use the facilities. This is usually not a problem. Some establishments will charge 1 z for the privilege. Service stations and other places often have toilets available for free or a nominal fee. Some public toilets still use the older symbols to designate men's and women's facilities: men are upside-down triangles; women are circles.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (in the U.S.; manned 24 hr.). U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518 (in the U.S.). Poland Traveler's Hotline: tel. 800/200-300.

Water -- Tap water is generally safe, but you may think twice about drinking from taps in older buildings with rusty pipes. If you're concerned, let the water run a few seconds before drinking. Bottled water is cheap and widely available.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Poland is not particularly gay-friendly, and the country's center-right government has recently spoken out against granting homosexuals legal rights or even discussing homosexuality in the public schools. That said, gays and lesbians visiting Poland are not likely to encounter overt discrimination or have trouble booking rooms. There are active gay populations in both Warsaw and Kraków, and several gay-friendly bars and clubs. GayGuide.net (http://warsaw.gayguide.net) publishes a useful list of gay clubs in the capital.

For more gay and lesbian travel resources, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Student Travelers

Polish organizations frequently offer considerable discounts for students and young people. Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) website (www.istc.org) for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance, and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, tel. 132-782 in Australia, or tel. 0871/2-300-040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people that entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www2.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Irish-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Poland has taken enormous steps in the past 2 decades to clean up its environment and to undo the decades of environmental degradation experienced under Communism. The Communist authorities placed a primacy on heavy industries like shipbuilding and steel production, spoiling parts of the Baltic seacoast, soiling rivers, and laying waste to thousands of square miles in the area of Upper Silesia, around Katowice. So enamored were they of glorifying the industrial proletariat that they even built an enormous steel mill complex, Nowa Huta, on the doorsteps of Kraków. The point there seems to have been to try to win over the bourgeois Cracovians to the Communist cause, but the result was exactly the opposite. The acrid smoke and acid rain coated buildings and damaged centuries-old monuments and statuary, not to mention the devastating impact on human health.

The good news is that all that belongs to the past. Nearly from the start of the collapse of Communism in 1989, Polish authorities have taken steps to reduce the environmental impact of heavy industries. The Nowa Huta complex is now a shadow of its former self, and many of the smelters, coking plants, and mills in the surrounding region have been shuttered or cleaned up. You might still catch the sharp whiff of a nearby steel mill on your travels (particularly in Upper Silesia), but nothing remotely like it was just 20 years ago.

Part of the impetus for change has been Poland's entry into the European Union and new legal restraints placed on emissions of greenhouse gases and particle pollution. Part, too, is simply the rising living standards and a new appreciation among the population for clean rivers and healthy forests. Poles, at heart, are inveterate hikers, bikers, and kayakers, and that awareness is only likely to grow.

That doesn't mean there are not problem areas. The rise in incomes has brought with it unique challenges. Car-ownership rates are now at an all-time high, and whereas modern cars burn much more cleanly than those old "Polski Fiat" clunkers favored under Communism (and which you still see motoring around occasionally), the sheer increase in cars on the road has mitigated some of the progress in combating air pollution. Prosperity, too, has led to significant land-use challenges. While population levels in Poland's big cities have leveled off, each year, thousands of people move to the fringes of big cities in new suburban developments. Cities like Warsaw and Kraków are now ringed by the single-family housing and shopping/office complexes familiar to anyone in the U.S. and Western Europe. That may be fine for the people who live there, but the result annually is a huge loss of open land and increased pressure on the country's creaking road network.

As a short-term visitor to the country, your environmental impact is likely to be small. Still, there are steps you can take to reinforce the country's growing green awareness. If you're just planning on hitting the big cities, for example, there's no need to drive your own car. Poland's train and bus networks are comprehensive, and the time you save driving will be minimal. Also, plan to incorporate into your itinerary activities like hiking, biking, and canoeing that reinforce this trend and put money into the hands of operators who promote it. Even the minimal fee (5 z) you pay to enter one of the country's national parks goes some way toward protecting these lands for future generations.

Animal-Rights Issues

Animal-rights issues are making slow progress in Poland, a largely agrarian country that still depends on animals, in some cases, for farm labor. Some may take issue with the horse-drawn carriages that line up along Kraków's main square, the Rynek Gówny, where the horses stand in the hot sun and occasionally suffer the whips of their masters.

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel:

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings. The Hotel Association of Canada (www.hacgreenhotels.com) has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program, which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Special-Interest Vacations

Several international travel agencies offer travel packages that focus exclusively on Poland or offer Polish destinations as part of a "Central European" or "Eastern European" tour. A few of the best are described below.

U.S.-based Kensington Tours (300 Delaware Ave., Suite 1704, Wilmington, DE 19801; tel. 888/903-2001; Fax 866/613-7599; www.kensingtontours.com) offers a signature "Eight Days in Poland" tour that starts in Gdansk and makes its way across the country to Warsaw and Kraków.

U.S. operator Tauck's (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com) 2-week Eastern European and Poland tour includes Kraków, Auschwitz, and a private Chopin recital in Warsaw on a regional getaway that includes stops in Budapest, Vienna, and Prague. Tauck also offers a 5-day, 4-night extension package to lengthen your stay in Poland.

The Polish operator Almatur-Opole (Ozimska 26/2, 45-058 Opole; tel. 77/423-28-48; Fax 77/423-28-40; www.excitingpoland.com) offers several highly rated Polish packages, including "Poland in One Week," the "Pearls of Northern Poland," and "Polish-Jewish Heritage."

For more information on package tours and for tips on booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Jagiellonian University in Kraków offers 3-, 4-, and 6-week Polish language and culture courses during the summer months at both the beginner and intermediate levels. The courses are administered through the Kosciuszko Foundation in New York (15 E. 65th St., New York, NY 10065; tel. 212/734-2130; www.thekf.org). Fees start at around $2,750 and include dormitory accommodation and weekend sightseeing trips.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Poland's relatively flat terrain makes for ideal cycling country. Several operators offer trips of 1- or 2-week duration. Fees normally include bike and helmet rentals and guides, as well as accommodation and at least some meals. U.K.-based Cycling Holidays Poland (tel. 44/1536-738-038; www.cyclingpoland.com) offers three separate 7-day tours that focus on the country's UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Baltic coast, and the Mazurian Lakes district. Tours are offered on both road and mountain bikes. Poland also has thousands of kilometers of navigable waterways and a thriving canoeing and kayaking scene. Dozens of companies can help organize short or relatively long canoeing trips, depending on the need. Canoe Kayak Poland (www.canoekayakpoland.com) offers made-to-order canoe trips, can arrange for boat and equipment hire, and will provide guides.

Food & Wine Trips

Poland's culinary reputation is on the rise, having been named recently to several "top new cuisine" lists. Poland Culinary Vacations (1020 Durham Ave., Bozeman, MT 59718; tel. 888/703-8130 or 406/522-7711; www.polandculinaryvacations.com) offers a series of 1-week trips specializing in regional cooking, including the "Flavors of Lower Silesia." The owner, Malgorzata Rose, was born in Wrocaw, and though she's relocated to the U.S., she retains a passion for the cooking she grew up on.

Jewish Heritage Tours

For centuries, Poland was the center of Jewish life in Europe. The best way to uncover this history is through a knowledgeable guided tour. There are many reputable tour groups offering these kinds of services, and the tourist information offices in Lódz, Lublin, and Kraków can suggest local guides and tour operators. U.S.-based Polish Jewish Heritage (tel. 800/354-8320; www.polandjewishheritagetours.com) offers a standard 9-day tour package during the summer months starting at around $2,200 per person, as well as allowing for guided DIY tours, depending on what you want to see. Rates include meals, entrance fees, and accommodation.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Harvard University's WorldTeach (79 John F. Kennedy St., P.O. Box 122, Cambridge, MA 02138; tel. 617/495-5527; www.worldteach.org) operates a Polish program that is open to volunteers of almost any age and nationality. WorldTeach provides a thorough cultural immersion where volunteers teach elementary- to high school-age youth conversational English skills and American culture. Prior teaching experience is not required, though the application process is lengthy. Placements are in both rural and urban settings for 8 weeks during the summer.

Getting Around

By Plane

The Polish national carrier LOT (tel. 801/703-703; www.lot.com) offers regularly scheduled flights between major Polish cities, including Warsaw, Kraków, and Gdansk.

By Car

Car travel offers maximum flexibility, but driving in Poland can be a slow and highly frustrating experience. Most Polish highways -- even those connecting major cities -- are of the narrow, two-lane variety and are usually clogged with trucks, buses, tractors, and even occasionally horse-drawn carts. For most stretches, plan on at least 2 hours' driving time per 100km (62 miles) distance. And drive defensively. Polish drivers have an abysmal record when it comes to per capita accidents and fatalities.

Poland follows normal continental rules of the road, with priority given to cars on roundabouts and vehicles coming from the right at unmarked intersections. Note that drivers are required to keep their headlights on at all times. The speed limit on (the few) four-lane freeways is 130kmph (81 mph). This drops to 90kmph (56 mph) on two-lane highways outside urban areas, and 50kmph (31 mph) or slower in built-up areas. Speed checks are common. Random sobriety checks are also frequent. The blood/alcohol limit is 0.02% -- approximately one beer.

Sample Driving Times between Major Cities -- The times here are only approximate and depend very much on weather and traffic conditions. In general, Polish roads are busy, and it's best to travel at off-peak hours.

• Prague to Wrocaw: 3 to 4 hours
• Prague to Kraków: 7 to 8 hours
• Kraków to Wrocaw: 3 to 4 hours
• Kraków to Warsaw: 3 to 4 hours
• Kraków to Zakopane: 2 hours
• Lódz to Warsaw: 3 hours
• Warsaw to Gdansk: 5 to 6 hours
• Poznan to Warsaw: 3 hours
• Lublin to Warsaw: 3 hours

By Train

The Polish state railroad, PKP (www.pkp.pl), has improved its service in recent years, and train travel is usually the quickest and best way to move between big cities or to cover long distances. PKP maintains a useful online timetable (but be sure to use Polish spellings for city names) at www.rozklad-pkp.pl.

The best trains are the intercity (IC) trains, which link nearly all the country's biggest cities. You'll see IC trains marked in red on timetables; these are more expensive than regular trains and require an obligatory seat reservation. Next best are express trains (Ex), which also require a reservation. Avoid other types of trains for longer distances.

You can buy tickets at stations or directly from the conductor on the train, though you'll have to pay a surcharge of 8 z. Fares are relatively low by Western standards. A second-class ticket from Kraków to Warsaw, for example, costs about 90 z. For overnight trips, you can usually book a couchette in a six-bunk car or a sleeper in a three-bunk car. Sleepers run about 120 z. Be sure to book these in advance.

By Bus

Poland is well served by myriad public and private bus companies that go everywhere, from the biggest cities to the smallest towns. Prices and journey times are often comparable to the trains, and buses can be a highly useful alternative if you can't find a convenient train connection. In fact, within specific regions, buses are often better than trains for getting to outlying cities and towns. From Kraków, for example, buses are much quicker and cheaper than trains for the popular day trip to Zakopane. The tourist information office can usually help you figure out the best way of getting from one place to another, or whether the train or bus is a quicker or cheaper alternative.

With some notable exceptions (including Lublin and Katowice), in most cities, you'll usually find the main bus station located just next to the train station. Buy tickets in advance from ticket windows at stations or directly from the driver. Watch to have exact change on hand since drivers may not have enough cash to deal with large bills. Try to arrive at the station well before your bus is scheduled to leave. Lines at bus platforms start forming early, and the best seats go to those who get there first.

By Public Transportation

Most Polish cities have excellent public transportation systems consisting of buses, trams, trolley buses, and in Warsaw, a small metro. See separate city listings for public transportation details. Though each city's system differs slightly, the overall idea is the same. Buy single-ride tickets from tobacconists and news agents for about 2.50 z per ride, validate the ticket in machines on entering the tram or bus, and keep the ticket until you get off. Once you've mastered public transportation, you'll find there's rarely any need to take a taxi.

On Foot

You'll likely spend a lot of time walking. Since cars and taxis are often barred from the centers of large cities and public transportation can get you only so close to where you need to go, walking is often the only alternative. Buy comfortable shoes and break them in before you arrive; you're going to use them.

By Bike

Poland is relatively flat, and depending how much time you have and what kind of shape you're in, you could conceivably cycle around the entire country. There are plenty of cycling trails that crisscross the country. Check out the organization Bicycles for Poland (www.rowery.org.pl) for some rules of the road and ideas on good routes. Cycling in cities is not recommended. Though some cities, like Kraków, do have specially marked bike lanes, traffic is heavy, and the lanes are not that well maintained.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

 All visitors to Poland are required to hold a passport that is valid for at least 6 months beyond the date of entry into the country. Passport holders from the U.S., Canada, and Australia can enter Poland without a visa and stay for 90 days. Passport holders from EU member countries, including the U.K., do not need a visa. Poland is a member of the EU's "Schengen" common border zone, meaning that -- in theory, at least -- if you are arriving from another EU country, you will not be asked to show a passport. Note that you are still obliged to carry your passport with you and show it if requested. Citizens of other countries should check in with the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (www.msz.gov.pl) to see whether they are required to have a visa and for any specific instructions necessary for obtaining it.

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications, as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232), or visit the government website (www.passports.gov.au).

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Alberta, ON K1A 0G3; tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office (Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2; tel. 01/671-1633;www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office in New Zealand (tel. 0800/225-050 or 04/474-8100) or log on to www.dia.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0300/222-0000) or search its website at www.ips.gov.uk.

Visas

Visitors from the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand do not require visas for stays under 90 days. Nationals of other countries should consult the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs (general and visa information; www.msz.gov.pl) or contact the Polish embassy in their home country.

Customs

Travelers from outside the European Union, including the U.S., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, are permitted to bring with them into Poland duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250g (8 3/4 oz.) of pipe tobacco, 2L (68 oz.) of wine, and 1L (34 oz.) of spirits. For travelers coming from within the EU, at least in theory, the duty-free limit is 800 cigarettes, 200 cigars, or 1kg (2 1/4 lb.) of pipe tobacco, 110L (29 gal.) of beer, 90L (24 gal.) of wine, and 10L (2 3/4 gal.) of spirits. There are no limits on what you can take out of Poland, but special restrictions apply on exports of certain cultural items, including works of art created before 1950.

What You Can Take Home -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., P.O. Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no unusual health concerns for visiting Poland, and visitors are not required to get any special inoculations or show medical documents to enter the country. Medical and hospital standards are generally high. Though there are pharmacies everywhere, you should consider bringing along extra supplies of any prescription drugs you are taking. Tap water is drinkable, but you may want to avoid drinking from taps in old buildings since the pipes may be rusty. Bottled water is widely available.

Tips for Families

Poland is not particularly well suited to traveling with small children. Distances between cities are relatively far, and kid-friendly sights are few. To make things worse, museum exhibits tend to be static rather than interactive (on the plus side, many museums do not charge admission for children 5 and under). It pays to read up a bit in order to entertain the kids with tidbits of historic tales. Among Polish cities, Torun is compact and easy to manage, with tales like the Teutonic Knights and Copernicus, and rewards like a trip to the Gingerbread Museum to keep children motivated. Malbork Castle will certainly set a benchmark for kids in sizing up any castle they are likely to see in the future. For real interactive family fun, try kayaking in Mazury and Suwaki, or rafting down the Dunajec river.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Senior citizens can qualify for a 50% discount on Polish rail tickets if they buy a PKP Senior Citizen ID (Legitymacja Seniora). The card costs 75 z and is available to anyone over 60 (bring along a passport-sized photo). Museums will often grant senior discounts to anyone over 65. Try showing your passport or an AARP card.

For more information and resources on travel for seniors, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips on Accommodations

Decent hotels in Poland tend to be expensive. This is particularly true in large cities like Warsaw and Kraków. The past decade has seen a boom in hotel construction, but most of that has come in the high and high-middle ends of the market in order to cater to the growing amount of business travel to Poland. That means rates will probably be higher than you expect. On the plus side, however, this dependence on business travelers means that hotels often reduce rates on the weekends to fill beds; it never hurts to ask if the rate they are quoting is the best one available. Rates are often also lower if you pre-book over a hotel's website or use hotel booking sites or aggregators like Expedia.com.

"Standard double rooms" are usually understood to mean twin beds; rooms with queen-size beds are often classified as "deluxe" and cost more. Most places now have nonsmoking accommodations, and a growing number of hotels are now mostly or entirely smoke-free.

If you're traveling by car, hotels outside of urban areas usually offer parking for free or for a nominal fee (around 10 z). Within urban areas, such as Warsaw and Kraków, however, hotels sometimes use parking fees as a profit center and charge through the nose. Before agreeing to plunk down as much as 100 z a night for parking at a four- or five-star hotel, it's worth checking to see if there's metered street parking out front or a municipal parking garage nearby for a fraction of the fee. The Sheraton Hotel in Kraków, for example, charges 100 z per night to park in its underground garage, but right next door is the perfectly safe Kraków municipal garage that charges 30 z a night.

In addition to hotels and pensions (pensjonaty), there's no shortage of people offering private accommodations in their homes or flats. This is more common in heavily touristed areas away from larger cities -- in places like Zakopane, for example. Look for the signs saying wolny pokój (free room) or noclegi (lodging) hanging from a house. Prices are lower than hotels, but standards vary considerably. Always take a look at the room first before accepting.

For tips on surfing for hotel deals online, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Popular Polish Hotel Chains

Many international hotel chains, including InterContinental, Sheraton, Best Western, Marriott, and Radisson, own or operate at least one property in Poland. The following companies maintain chains in Poland with properties around the country:

• Campanile (tel. 331/64-62-59-70; www.campanile.com.pl): French-owned chain that runs hotels under the Kyriad Prestige, Campanile, and Premiere Classe brands. The mid-market Campanile hotels are particularly good value, invariably cheerful, clean, and well-run.

• Likus (tel. 48/12-636-62-10; www.hotel.com.pl): This local luxury group has several five-star hotels in Kraków, including the Copernicus, as well as five-star properties in Wrocaw (Hotel Monopol), Katowice (Hotel Monopol), and Lódz (Grand). If you've got the money, you'll find no finer lodging in the country.

• Orbis (tel. 801/606-606; www.orbis.pl): The former state-owned Polish hotel operator Orbis has hooked up with a French group and now operates hotels under the Novotel, Mercure, IBIS, and Etap brands. Novotels and Mercures tend to be up-market (and occasionally overpriced) affairs, while IBIS hotels are short on personality but big on value. Etap hotels can also be great -- priced like youth hostels, but much cleaner and quieter.

• Qubus (tel. 71/782-87-65; www.qubus.pl): A relatively young Polish chain that aims for the upscale business traveler and has properties in major cities around the country. Qubus hotels invariably have a high standard and are an excellent choice.

• Vienna International (www.vi-hotels.com): Features hip new properties like Andel's and Angelo in Kraków, Lódz, and Katowice, among other locations.

When to Go

Poland's climate has four distinct seasons and is characterized by hot summers and dark, cold winters. Unless you're heading to the Tatras to ski, avoid travel from January to March. Many of the attractions are closed for the season, and the cold and snow make getting around difficult. Note that Kraków and Zakopane are both popular Christmas and New Year's destinations, and hotel prices rise accordingly. Summer brings good weather but more crowds as Poles take to the roads on their summer holidays. September and October are ideal, with fewer crowds and usually reliably good weather.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Sadly, Poland is decades behind the United States and many other countries in making its buildings and sidewalks more easily accessible to people in wheelchairs or with disabilities. The only exceptions are likely to be newly built hotels, which will usually have at least one room set aside for wheelchair access. The leading Polish group promoting the elimination of architectural barriers in Poland is Integracja (tel. 22/530-65-70; www.integracja.org).

For more on organizations that offer resources to disabled travelers, go to www.frommers.com/planning.