Port de Pollenca and Formentor Travel Guide

Beside a sheltered bay between Cap de Formentor to the north and Cap del Pinar to the south lies Port de Pollença, 65km (40 miles) north of Palma. The town is flanked by two hills: Calvary to the west and Puig to the east. Calvary Chapel offers the best views of the resort and the bay. Low-rise hotels, private homes, restaurants, and snack bars line the very attractive beach, which, though narrow at its northwestern end, has some of the island’s whitest sand and clearest water. Windsurfing, water-skiing, and scuba diving are among the watersports offered. Wednesday is market day in Port de Pollença—head for the town square between 8am and 1pm to browse fresh produce, leather goods, embroidered tablecloths, ceramics, and more. Bargaining is part of the fun.

Sunday is market day in the town of Pollença, which is about 6km (3 3/4 miles) inland from Port de Pollença. Here, an 18th-century stairway, known as the Monte Calvario (Calvary), leads 365 steps up to a hermitage. (You can also reach the top by car via Carrer de las Cruces, which is lined with 3m-high/9 3/4-ft. concrete crosses.) Between Pollença and Port de Pollença, you can branch off on route 2203 to Cala San Vicente, a pleasant, sandy cove with notable surf and several small hotels and restaurants.

As you head northeast along the coast from Port de Pollença, the Mirador de Colomer provides an expansive view of the California-like coast from Punta de la Nau to Punta de la Troneta and includes El Colomer (Pigeon’s Rock). But the island’s most intoxicating views are on the 20km (12-mile) stretch of winding, at times vertiginous, road from Port de Pollença to the tip of Cap de Formentor, “the devil’s tail.” Cliffs rise more than 200m (656 ft.) high and rock-rimmed coves embrace turquoise waters. About halfway along this road, Cala de Pi de la Posada has a lovely bathing beach. Continuing on to the end, you’ll come to the lighthouse at Cap de Formentor.

South of Port de Pollença about 11km (7 miles), you’ll reach a long stretch of narrow, sandy beach along Alcúdia Bay, which is backed by countless hotels, whose crowds can overwhelm the area in peak season. The nightlife here is more abundant than in Port de Pollença. Between Port de Alcúdia and Ca’n Picafort, nature enthusiasts will enjoy the 800-hectare (1,977-acre) Parc Natural de S’Albufereta, Carretera Alcúdia–Artá, Km 27 (tel. 97-189-22-50), a wetlands area of lagoons, dunes, and canals where more than 200 species of birds have been sighted, with the largest numbers during spring and fall migrations. The park is open daily 9am‒6pm (closes at 5pm Oct–Mar). Entry is free, but you must get a permit at the reception center. No motor vehicles are allowed within the reserve.

Five buses a day from Palma’s Plaça Espanya go to Port de Pollença; a one-way fare costs 9€–11€. If you’re driving from Deià, follow Ma-10 all the way to Pollença. Port de Pollenca’s tourist information office, on Carrer Joan XXIII, 19 (tel. 97-186-54-67), is open summer Monday to Friday 9am‒8pm, Saturday 9am‒4pm; winter Monday to Friday 8am‒11am and 1:30‒3pm.