Europe / Italy / Campania / Amalfi Coast / Positano / Best Restaurants

Chez Black

Of Positano's half-dozen or so nearly identical portside restaurants—where you dine not for the gourmet experience but for the scene—this lively indoor-outdoor spot is the best choice. The nautical theme is laid on thick, with lots of burnished wood, brass, and statuettes of mermaids, but as retro style that suits the surroundings, it totally works. Seating is in ranks of square tables with directors' chairs, which either face in, toward the restaurant, or out, at the passing carnival of tourists and port activity. Naturally, most want to face out, so you might have to draw straws with your travel companion. Chez Black is open all day and draws as many patrons for drinks as for food, and it is indeed a perfect spot for a cocktail or beer, but they also serve breakfast and lunch. Make no mistake, this isn't a foodie spot—you're here to see and be seen—but you can have a more than decent meal. The menu consists of standard regional fare—seafood pastas, pizzas—and has enough breadth and variety to suit all appetites. Oh, and not that this would sway anyone's decision, but Chez Black also has a reputation, one whose accuracy I can confirm, of having the best-looking, most charming waitstaff in town.