Planning a trip to Prague

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- There are no area or city codes in the Czech Republic. Each telephone number is a unique nine-digit number, usually written xxx-xxx-xxx. Numbers that begin with a "6" or "7" indicate a mobile phone.

Business Hours -- Normal business and banking hours run from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Stores in central Prague are typically open weekdays from 9am to 7pm and on Saturday from 9am until at least 1pm; larger stores and shopping centers are likely to be open on Sundays and holidays as well. Post offices are open from 8am until 7pm Monday to Friday. Some larger post offices have limited Saturday hours. Museums are almost always closed on Mondays. Tourist attractions may have shorter hours or shut down altogether during the winter (Nov-Apr).

Drinking Laws -- Alcohol (beer, wine, and spirits) is widely available at supermarkets, convenience stores, cafes, and bars. The legal age for buying and consuming alcohol is 18, though ID checks are not common. There are no set hours for when bars can operate. Traditional Czech pubs close around 11pm. More modern bars and clubs in Prague usually stay open until at least 1am or 2am. The blood-alcohol limit for driving a car is zero, and motorists face a stiff fine and loss of their driving license if caught.

Electricity -- The Czech Republic operates on the standard European 220v using a two-pronged plug with round pins. Most U.S. appliances will need a transformer and a plug adaptor. Laptops will usually only require a plug adaptor.

Embassies & Consulates -- All foreign embassies are located in the capital, Prague. The embassy of the United States is located at Trziste 15, Prague 1, Malá Strana (tel. 257-022-000; www.usembassy.cz). The embassy of Canada is at Muchova 6, Prague 6, Dejvice (tel. 272-101-800; www.canada.cz). The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Thunovská 14, Prague 1, Malá Strana (tel. 257-402-111; www.britain.cz). The local consular office of Australia is at Klimentská 10, Prague 1, Nové Mesto (tel. 296-578-350).

Emergencies -- Dial the following numbers in an emergency: 112 (general emergency, equivalent to U.S. 911); 155 (ambulance); 158 (police); 150 (fire); 1230, 1240 (emergency road service).

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gasoline, known as benzín in Czech is sold by the liter. Unleaded gas comes in two forms: regular (95 octane) and high-test (98 octane). Gasoline is expensive by U.S. standards. One liter costs around 30Kc, which works out to about $6.30 a gallon.

Holidays -- Public holidays include: New Year's Day (Jan 1); Easter Monday (March or April); Labor Day (May 1); Liberation Day (May 8); Sts. Cyril & Methodius Day (July 5); Death of Jan Hus Day (July 6); St. Wenceslas Day (Sept 28); the Founding of the Czechoslovak Republic (Oct 28); the Student Demonstrations of 1989 (Nov 17); Christmas (Dec 24, 25); and St. Stephen's Day (Dec 26).

Hospitals -- For emergency medical treatment, go to Nemocnice Na Homolce (Hospital Na Homolce) at Roentgenova 2, Prague 5, Smíchov (tel. 257-271-111; www.homolka.cz). If you need nonurgent medical attention, practitioners in many fields can be found at the Canadian Medical Care center at Veleslavínská 1, Prague 6, Dejvice (tel. 235-360-133; www.cmcpraha.cz). For dental service, call American Dental Associates at V Celnici 4, Prague 1, Nové Mesto (tel. 221-181-121; www.americandental.cz), open 8am to 8pm Monday to Friday.

Insurance -- U.S., Canadian, and Australian citizens should obtain medical insurance with international coverage prior to arrival in the Czech Republic, as any doctor or hospital visits must be paid for out of pocket. Hospitals may demand cash pre-payment before rendering services, but be sure to save all of the paperwork for later reimbursements. The Czech Republic and the E.U. have a reciprocal health insurance agreement that covers U.K. citizens provided they have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).

North Americans with homeowner's or renter's insurance are probably covered for lost luggage. If not, inquire with Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828) or Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792). These insurers can also provide trip-cancellation, medical, and emergency evacuation coverage abroad.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Central Prague has several Internet cafes. Rates typically run from 1Kc to 2Kc per minute. Near Old Town Square, try Bohemia Bagel at Masná 2, Prague 1, Staré Mesto (tel. 224-812-560; www.bohemiabagel.cz). They have a dozen PCs in a pleasant setting for 2Kc per minute; open daily from 8am to 11pm. Spika at Dlázdená 4, Prague 1, Nové Mesto (tel. 224-211-521; http://netcafe.spika.cz) is open Monday to Friday 8am to midnight and Saturday and Sunday 10am to 11pm, and charges 20Kc for 15 minutes.

Language -- Czech is a Slavic language, a distant cousin to Russian but more similar to Slovak and Polish. Nearly anyone who works in a hotel, restaurant or tourist center will be able to speak at least some English. Outside of the capital, English ability decreases, though nearly anyone under the age of 30 has had (in theory) several years of English instruction in the schools. German may also prove useful, particularly with older people.

Berlitz has a comprehensive phrasebook in Czech that is widely available locally in bookstores.

Laundromats -- Laundryland, Londýnská 71, Prague 2 (tel. 222-516-692), offers dry cleaning as well as laundry service and costs about 60Kc a load to wash. Located 2 blocks from the námestí Míru metro station and close to the I. P. Pavlova metro station, it's open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Prague Andy's Laundromat is nearby in Vinohrady at Korunní 14, Prague 2 (tel. 222-510-180). Whirlpool washers and dryers cost 66 Kc a load to wash.

Legal Aid -- Always keep your cool if you're stopped by the police. Acting angry or defensive is almost certain to backfire. Be sure to always carry your passport and driver's license and produce them when asked by a law-enforcement officer. Traffic violations are usually settled through a spot fine paid directly to the police officer. Ask for a receipt as a way of keeping the officer honest.

There are no specific agencies that offer legal services for visiting foreigners. The best advice for serious infractions is to contact your embassy as soon as you can.

Mail -- Most post offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 7pm. The main post office (Hlavní posta), at Jindrisská 14, Prague 1 (tel. 221-131-111), is open 24 hours a day. You can receive mail, marked "Poste Restante" and addressed to you, in care of this post office.

Postcards to the U.S. cost 19Kc; to any E.U. country, 18Kc. Rates for letters vary by weight and should be weighed at the post office to ensure proper postage. Mail service within Europe takes 3 to 5 days, and to the U.S. 7 to 10 days.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Prague has two main English-language weekly newspapers: The Prague Post (www.praguepost.com) and the Czech Business Weekly (www.cbw.cz). The former has good restaurant, culture, and film reviews; the latter mostly concerns itself with business and politics. You'll find both at newsstands around town.

The Prague Daily Monitor (http://praguemonitor.com) is a daily online "newspaper," with both original content and reprints from other publications.

Police -- Dial the European Emergency Number tel. 112 from any phone in an emergency. For Czech police dial tel. 158.

Smoking -- Smoking is generally permitted in restaurants, bars, and cafes, though there has been discussion of imposing a blanket indoor smoking ban that may or may not be in force by the time of your visit. Restaurants are required to offer non-smoking seating, though this may not always be in the most desirable section of the restaurant. Note that it's illegal to smoke outdoors near bus and tram stops. This rule is rarely enforced, but the fine, 1,000Kc, is steep. Smoking is banned on all trains and public transportation.

Taxes -- All goods and services in the Czech Republic are levied a value-added tax (VAT, or DPH in Czech), ranging from 9% to 19% depending on the item. This tax is normally included in the price.

Telephones -- Working public phones are rare thanks to the rapid growth of mobile phones. There are a few surviving coin-operated pay phones around town, but most public phones require a prepaid magnetic card. Find the cards at tobacco and magazine kiosks (cards are available for 200Kc-500Kc). Simply insert the card, listen for the dial tone, and dial. You can use pay phones with prepaid cards to dial abroad.

You can also dial abroad from the main post office or, more cheaply, over the Internet at many Internet cafes.

The country code for the Czech Republic is 420. To dial the Czech Republic from abroad, dial your country's international access code (011 in the United States) plus the unique 9-digit local number. Once you are here, to dial any number anywhere in the Czech Republic, simply dial the nine-digit number.

To make a direct international call from the Czech Republic, dial 00 plus the country code of the country you are calling and then the area code and number. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1; Great Britain, 44; and Australia, 61.

For directory inquiries regarding phone numbers within the Czech Republic, dial tel. 1180. For information about services and rates abroad, call tel. 1181.

Time -- The Czech Republic is in the central European time zone, the same as Paris, Berlin, and Vienna, and 1 hour ahead of London (GMT), 6 hours ahead of New York (EST).

Daylight saving time is in effect from early spring until fall (the actual date varies from year to year). Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time. The switch is made at 2am on a Sunday morning to cause the least disruption.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops 20Kc per bag (more if you have a lot of luggage), and though it's not expected, it's a nice gesture to leave the chamber staff 20Kc per night (depending on the level of service). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided a specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets).

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff or bartender 10% of the check to reward good service. On smaller tabs it's easiest just to round up to the next highest multiple of 10. For example, if the bill comes to 72Kc, hand the waiter 80Kc and tell him to keep the change.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 5% to 10% of the fare (provided he hasn't already overcharged you). Tip hairdressers and barbers 10% to 15%.

Toilets -- Acceptably clean public pay toilets are scattered around tourist areas and can be found in every metro station. Expect to pay 5 Kc to 10Kc for the privilege. You'll find generally cleaner free toilets in restaurants, hotels, and fast-food outlets, but these are usually reserved for customers.

Water -- Tap water is fine to drink, but most restaurants won't serve it, preferring instead to charge for bottles of mineral water. Carbonated water is "voda s bublínkami." To order still water, say "voda bez bublínek" (literally: "water without bubbles").

Tips for Student Travelers

Czech clubs, restaurants, hotels, and museums frequently offer discounts for students and young people. Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; 132 782 in Australia; or 0871 2 300 040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people that entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The country code for the Czech Republic is 420. To dial the Czech Republic from abroad, dial the international access code (011 in the United States) plus 420 and then the unique nine-digit local number (there are no area or city codes in the Czech Republic). Once you are here, to dial any number anywhere in the Czech Republic, simply dial the nine-digit number.

To make a direct international call from the Czech Republic, dial 00 plus the country code of the country you are calling and then the area code and number. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1; Great Britain, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; and New Zealand, 64. To dial a number in New York from Prague, for example, you would dial 001-212-xxx-xxxx.

For directory inquiries regarding phone numbers within the Czech Republic, dial tel. 1180. For information about services and rates abroad, call tel. 1181.

Working public phones are few and far between thanks to the rapid growth of mobile phones. A few public telephones around town still accept coins, but they are being slowly phased out. Most public phones require a prepaid magnetic stripe calling card that you can buy from tobacco and magazine kiosks. The cards are available for 200Kc to 500Kc worth of credit. Simply insert the card, listen for the dial tone, and dial. You can use pay phones with prepaid cards to dial abroad.

Long-distance phone charges are higher in the Czech Republic than they are in the United States, and hotels usually add their own surcharge, sometimes as hefty as 100% to 200%, of which you may be unaware until you're presented with the bill. Ask before placing a call from a hotel.

Even if you're not calling person-to-person, collect calls are charged with the hotel fees, making them pricey, too. Charging a long-distance call to your phone credit card from a public telephone is often the most economical way to phone home.

A fast, convenient way to call the United States from Europe is via services like AT&T USA Direct. This bypasses the foreign operator and automatically links you to an operator with your long-distance carrier in your home country. The access number in the Czech Republic for AT&T USA Direct is tel. 00-800-222-55288. For MCI CALL USA, dial tel. 00-800-001-112. Canadians can connect with Canada Direct at tel. 00-800-001-115. From a pay phone in the Czech Republic, your local phone card will be debited only for a local call.

Other ways to beat high-cost long-distance calls from your hotel include calling from the main post office or over the Internet at many Internet cafes.

Telephone books are printed in two editions: A separate set of White Pages contains alphabetical lists of household phone owners, while the Yellow Pages list businesses according to trade, with an alphabetical listing in more White Pages upfront. The Yellow Pages include an English-language index.

Cellphones

Czech cellphones operate on a GSM band of 900/1800MHz. This is the same standard in use throughout Europe but different from the one used in the U.S. American cellphones will work here provided they are triband phones (not all phones are triband) and that you've contacted your service provider to allow for international roaming. Keep calls to a minimum, however, since roaming charges can be steep.

U.K. cellphones should work without any problem provided that you've contacted your service provider to activate international roaming (the same precautions about steep roaming charges apply to U.K. cellphones).

One way of avoiding international roaming charges is to purchase a pay-as-you-go SIM card for your cellphone and a prepaid calling card. This provides you with a local number and allows you to make calls and send text messages at local rates. All of the major local telephone operators: Telefónica 02 (www.cz.02.com); T-mobile (www1.t-mobile.cz); and Vodafone (www.vodafone.cz), offer pay-as-you-go SIM cards and telephone number services.

For iPhone travelers, at press time, Telefónica 02 was the only Czech operator offering 3G network services, though the other major providers had plans to launch 3G networks of their own. Wi-Fi networks are plentiful and easy to find for surfing the net with the iPhone, though keep in mind that downloading data over a 3G network outside of your payment plan can be prohibitively expensive. To be safe, switch off data roaming the moment you arrive.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer --- Nearly every hotel from a three-star property on up will offer some kind of in-room Internet access, though many hotels will charge for the service. Most often these days this will be a wireless connection, though occasionally it will be a LAN (dataport) connection. If the hotel offers LAN connections, they will usually also loan out Ethernet cables for guests to use during their stay. Check with the reception desk.

If having a good in-room Internet connection is important to you, make this clear when you register for your room. Wi-Fi signal strength drops off considerably the further your room is from the router. Though the hotel may generally offer Wi-Fi, some rooms may not be close enough to make this practical.

Even if your hotel doesn't offer in-room Internet, there are usually lots of options for logging on with your own laptop. A surprising number of cafes, restaurants, and bars now offer free Wi-Fi to customers with a purchase. You may have to finagle a bit with the password, but you'll normally be able to get it to work.

To locate Wi-Fi hotspots in the Czech Republic (and around the world), go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Without Your Own Computer -- Many hotels will have a public computer or a business center for guests to use. If your hotel doesn't and you just want to check e-mail, it's sometimes worth asking at the reception desk whether you can use the hotel's computer for a couple of minutes. The answer is likely to be yes if it's a small place and the reception desk is not busy at the time.

Prague has several centrally located Internet cafes and your hotel receptionist will certainly know the location of the nearest one. Surfing, however, can be relatively expensive. Rates average around 1Kc to 2Kc a minute.

The Globe Bookstore and Coffeeshop at Pstrossova 6, Prague 1, Nové Mesto (tel. 224 934 203; www.globebookstore.cz) is one of the better deals in town; it's both a free Wi-Fi hotspot and offers surfing on its own computers for 1Kc per minute. Bohemia Bagel at Masná 2, Prague 1, Staré Mesto (tel. 224-812-560; www.bohemiabagel.cz) charges 2Kc per minute for surfing, and also offers low-cost phone calls. Spika at Dlázdená 4, Prague 1, Nové Mesto (tel. 224-211-521; http://netcafe.spika.cz) is open Monday to Friday 8am to midnight, and Saturday and Sunday 10am to 11pm. They charge 20Kc for 15 minutes and offer cheap, Internet-based international phone calls.

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

The Czech Republic presents no unusual health concerns and proof of vaccinations and inoculations is not required to enter the country. As with any destination, you could experience a minor bout of food poisoning (usually a short-lived case of an upset stomach or diarrhea). If you're planning to spend time in the bright sunshine, you should apply sunscreen. Mosquitoes and ticks are a problem in wooded areas, particularly near water, in the warmer months.

Pharmacies are abundant and sell both over-the-counter (OTC) medications like aspirin as well as prescription drugs. OTC medicines are not available in grocery stores, convenience stores, or gas stations but must be purchased at a licensed pharmacy. Stock up on prescription drugs before leaving home, as a Czech pharmacist may not recognize your doctor's prescription. In any event, use generic names instead of trade names when describing drugs (such as acetaminophen instead of Tylenol), as trade names change from market to market and may not be the same in the Czech Republic.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Czech food tends to be hearty and heavy and not advisable for anyone on a low-fat or low-cholesterol diet. Vegetarian restaurants are few and far between, but Prague has a couple of decent vegetarian options. Nearly any restaurant will offer omelets, salads, and items like fried cheese (smazený sýr), which may not necessarily be healthy but at least are nominally vegetarian.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Tick-bite encephalitis is a rare but serious disease caused by a bite from an infected tick. If you plan on camping or hiking in wilderness areas, you're best advised to get vaccinated. Spiders are common, but bites are infrequent. Snakes are practically unheard of.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Medical treatment in the Czech Republic is good and cost-effective. In an emergency, immediately call tel. 112 (general emergency). Most operators are trained to understand at least a little bit of English. Slowly explain the problem and your location, and an ambulance will come as quickly as possible to take you to the nearest hospital. Be sure to take along with you your passport as well as some means of payment (cash or credit card).

Note that U.S., Canadian, and Australian citizens may be required to prepay for any services required, even if they are carrying valid medical insurance. In this case, be sure to save all of the paperwork for later reimbursement. European Union citizens, including those from the U.K., are covered for emergency hospital treatment provided they have a valid European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).

In any emergency situation, an ambulance would usually take you to the nearest available hospital. If you have a choice of which hospital to go to, ask for Nemocnice Na Homolce (Hospital Na Homolce) at Roentgenova 2, in the Prague district of Smíchov (tel. 257-271-111; www.homolka.cz). They maintain a high standard of medical care and are accustomed to dealing with foreigners.

If you are seeking nonurgent medical attention, practitioners in many fields can be found at the Canadian Medical Care center at Veleslavínská 1, Prague 6, Dejvice (tel. 235-360-133; www.cmcpraha.cz).

Safety

In Prague's center you'll feel generally safer than in most big cities, but always take common-sense precautions. Be aware of your immediate surroundings. Don't walk alone at night around Wenceslas Square -- one of the main areas for prostitution and where a lot of unexplainable loitering takes place. All visitors should be watchful of pickpockets in heavily touristed areas, especially on Charles Bridge, in Old Town Square, and in front of the main train station. Be especially wary on crowded buses, trams, and trains. Don't keep your wallet in a back pocket and don't flash a lot of cash or jewelry. Riding the metro or trams at night feels just as safe as during the day. Petty crime, especially car break-ins and bike theft, are serious problems and are underreported in official statistics. Don't leave valuable items in parked cars overnight or leave bikes, even if they're securely locked, unattended for more than a few minutes.

Drug laws tend to be more lenient than in other countries. Marijuana has been decriminalized; possession of a few marijuana cigarettes is a low-level misdemeanor and the police are usually tolerant about outdoor smoking (those most bars and clubs will not allow you to smoke pot indoors). Possession of larger amounts of cannabis or any amount of harder drugs can land you in big trouble. If you're caught, you are best off phoning your embassy to figure out your legal options.

Prostitution is technically legal, though it's only loosely regulated and potentially high-risk. Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square), at night, is filled with touts pushing various "cabarets" and "nightclubs," code words for strip clubs and occasionally bordellos. If you choose to patronize one, don't take in lots of big bills with you and leave your credit cards back at the hotel. Most of the women working at these places are not likely to be Czechs, but Russians, Romanians, Ukrainians, and others, some brought here via organized crime networks. Public health checks are infrequent, if ever, so exercise extreme caution.

There are very few serious discrimination issues and most travelers won't have any problems. The only exception may be Roma (gypsies) or travelers with darker skin and dark hair who could conceivably be misidentified as Roma. Anti-Roma discrimination in the Czech Republic runs deep, and while such travelers are unlikely to meet with any overt violence, they might experience unfriendly treatment at the hand of shop-owners.

Czechs are remarkably tolerant when it comes to gays, and while same-sex hand-holding is rare, homosexuals are not likely to experience any overt discrimination.

Women traveling alone are not likely to experience any serious problems or unwanted attention. Women are generally safe walking alone at night, though of course bad things can happen anywhere and if there's any doubt, proper precautions should be taken.

Calendar of Events

Prague has an active cultural calendar year-round.

Spring -- The Prague Spring Music Festival (www.festival.cz) held in late spring (late May, early June) is a world-famous, 3-week series of symphony, opera, and chamber performances. Prague Khamoro (www.khamoro.cz), usually held at the end of May, is a celebration of Roma (gypsy) culture. Febiofest (www.febiofest.cz), in March, is one of the largest noncompetitive film and video festivals in central Europe. Many of the films are shown in English or with English subtitles. The One World film festival (www.jedensvet.cz), also in March, brings together the best human rights and documentary films of the past year. Many of the screenings are in English. Late spring (late May to early June) brings the annual Prague Fringe Fest (www.praguefringe.com), a week of offbeat music, happenings, and theater at scattered venues around town.

Summer -- The summer kicks off with the Prague Writers' Festival (www.pwf.cz) in June. A handful of contemporary writers from around Europe and the United States, including usually a couple of big names, hold readings, book-signings, lectures, and happenings. Tanec Praha (Dance Prague; www.tanecpraha.cz) is an international dance festival in June that focuses on contemporary dance and movement theater. United Islands (www.unitedislands.cz) festival, usually a long weekend in June, is a carnival of jazz, rock, folk, and house music spread out over several islands in the Vltava River.

Fall -- The Prague Autumn Music Festival, in late September and early October, is similar to the spring festival but the focus is more on orchestral music, bringing some of Europe's best ensembles to play at Prague's Rudolfinum. The weeklong Prague International Jazz Festival (www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz), usually in November, attracts some big names in jazz. Performances are usually held in the Lucerna Music Hall and the city's oldest jazz venue, Reduta.

Winter -- The Christmas season begins on St. Nicholas Eve (Dec. 5), when children traditionally dress as St. Nicholas, the devil, or an angel. The annual Prague Christmas Market in Old Town Square gets going about then. Stalls hawk all manner of food, mulled wine, ornaments, and cheap gifts in a festive atmosphere that toes a fine line between traditional and tacky. New Year's Eve is literally a blowout, and the entire town comes out to light firecrackers on Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, and Charles Bridge. Watch your head, as every year hundreds of people are injured by errant bottle rockets.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All visitors to the Czech Republic are required to have a passport valid for 6 months from the date of entry. This applies as well to visitors from the European Union. The Czech Republic is a member of the European Union's Schengen common border area, meaning that if you arrive in the country by road or rail from another Schengen-member country (including Austria, Germany, Poland, Slovakia) you will not normally have to show a passport or pass through customs control.

A passport valid for at least 6 months is required to enter the Czech Republic. To replace a lost or stolen passport, contact your embassy immediately.

For additional information, contact the following agencies:

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Visas

Visitors from the U.S., Canada, the European Union, including the U.K., and Australia do not need a visa to enter the Czech Republic. Visitors are permitted to stay in the country for 90 days of a 6-month period; E.U. visitors can stay 180 days. Visitors from other countries may need to obtain a visa before entering. A list of countries requiring entry visas as well as steps necessary to acquire a visa can be found on the website of the Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs: www.mzv.cz.

Customs

What You Can Bring into the Czech Republic -- Customs checks are relatively rare and most likely on arrival at Prague Airport you will be waved through without ever having to open your suitcase. Visitors are allowed to freely import the following: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 liter of spirits over 22% volume or 2 liters of fortified wine or sparkling wine, or 2 liters of still wine; 50 grams of perfume; 250ml of eau de toilette; as well as other goods to a value of about $225 (175€). Restricted items include meat, meat products, milk and dairy products, certain plants, and wildlife as well as illegal narcotics (including marijuana), weapons, explosives, and pornographic materials. Travelers entering or leaving the country with more than 10,000€ in cash are required by law to make a currency declaration.

What You Can Take Home from the Czech Republic -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no special inoculations or preparations required to enter the Czech Republic. Tick-borne encephalitis can be a problem and if you're planning to camp or hike extensively in wilderness areas, you should get vaccinated.

When to Go

Spring and fall are considered high season in Prague. Of the two, spring is the more beautiful. The magnolia trees begin to flower in early April and if you're blessed with a few sunny days, you're going to think you died and went to heaven. Fall (Sept-Oct) can be pleasant as well, with long, warm days and usually reliably sunny weather. Avoid travel over the Christmas, New Year's, and Easter holidays, when the city fills to brimming with tour groups from Germany and Italy. Midsummer (July-Aug) is considered shoulder (in-between) season. On the plus side, hotels usually discount prices 20% or more. On the minus, summers can be surprisingly iffy weather-wise. Some years bring weeks of hot sunshine; others, day after day of cold rain. You might also consider coming during the off-season: January and February and from November to mid-December. Yes, it's cold and often rainy or snowy, but the crowds thin out and you finally feel like you have this beautiful city to yourself.

The Weather -- Spring and fall generally bring the best weather for touring, with warm days and cool nights. Summers can be hit or miss, with some years bringing lots of rain and others weeklong stretches of hot sunshine. Winters can be cold and unusually long, sometimes lasting into April or even May. Rain is a possibility any time of year, so be sure to pack an umbrella.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors are normally entitled to reductions at museums, galleries, and castles. Usually the reduction is half the standard admission price for people aged 60 or over, though some attractions only discount above age 65.

Seniors (over 60) pay half price on Prague metros, trams, and buses. To get the senior discount, simply produce your passport at the ticket window and say "senior." Often you can get the discount simply for asking for it without having to show any documentation.

Escorted & Package Tours

Several international travel agencies offer travel packages that focus exclusively on Prague and the Czech Republic or offer Czech destinations as part of a "Central European" or "Eastern European" tour. A few of the best are described below.

U.S.-based Kensington Tours (300 Delaware Ave, Suite 1704, Wilmington, DE 19801; tel. 888/903-2001; fax 866/613-7599; www.kensingtontours.com) offers a luxury "Five Days in Prague" tour that includes day trips to Karlovy Vary and Kutná Hora, and a 10-day discovery tour that includes Budapest and Vienna.

U.S. operator Tauck's (tel. 800-788-7885; www.tauck.com) 2-week eastern European tour that includes Prague, Warsaw, Budapest, and Vienna. Another tour, called "A Week in Imperial Europe," focuses on the capital cities of central Europe.

The Czech domestic operator Cedok (Na Príkope 18; tel. 221-447-242; www.cedok.com) offers several highly rated Czech packages, including to the best-known castles in Bohemia and to the country's UNESCO-listed cities.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

The Bohemian and Moravian countryside is covered with bike paths and organized bike trips have become very popular. These usually include airport pickups, hotels along the way, bike and helmet rentals, and a van to carry your belongings as you cycle. One of the most popular rides is the 400km run from Prague to Vienna along mostly dedicated bike paths and country roads. The Czech-based Greenways Travel Club (tel. 519-511-572; www.gtc.cz) maintains a list of organized bike trips, including the Prague-Vienna trail and several specialty bike tours that mix cycling with exploring the beer region of southern Bohemia or the wine region of southern Moravia.

Food & Wine Trips

Trips that combine sightseeing with wine-tasting or eating and/or cooking are only starting to get going in the Czech Republic. Cedok, Greenways Travel Club, and other operators run tours to the wine areas of southern Moravia.

The U.S.-based operator Ipswich Tours (8 Herrick Dr, Ipswich, MA 01938; tel. 877/356-5163; fax 978/356-0382; www.ipswichtours.com) runs a 15-day "Gourmet" tour of the Czech Republic, Poland, and Hungary that combines traditional sightseeing with a special emphasis on local foods.

For more information on Package Tours and for tips on booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Prague remains a difficult city to negotiate for travelers with disabilities. Few sidewalks have curb cuts, the cobblestones are difficult to walk and wheel over, and many older buildings do not have elevators (or if they do, the elevator is not wide enough to accommodate a wheelchair). New hotels and buildings built in the past 5 years must now conform to more disabled-friendly standards, but they remain in the minority.

The main umbrella organization for the rights of those with disabilities is the Prague Association of Wheelchair Users (Prazská organizace vozíckáru) at Benediktská 6, Prague 1 (tel. 224-827-210; www.pov.cz). Unfortunately, the website is in Czech only, but has several useful maps showing wheelchair-friendly parts of the city.

The Prague public transit company (DPP) continues to expand facilities for passengers with disabilities. Several, but not all, metro stations have accessible elevators. A handful of new trams and buses have street-level entry doors to allow for wheelchair entry. For further information, contact the DPP website with information on barrier-free travel in English (www.dpp.cz).

Getting Around

On Foot

Prepare to do plenty of walking. Most of the center of the city is closed to vehicles, including taxis, meaning you'll have to walk pretty much everywhere. Distances are relatively close, but always wear comfortable shoes since many of the streets are paved (if that's the right word) with cobblestones.

Finding an Address -- Don't worry about getting lost -- everyone does temporarily, even lifelong Praguers. If you're pressed for time and can't enjoy an aimless wander, you'll find that street signs are emblazoned on red Art Nouveau frames, usually bolted to buildings. House numbers generally increase as you get farther from the Vltava or the square from which the street begins.

Note that Prague street names always precede the numbers, like Václavské nám. 25. Ulice (abbreviated ul. or often omitted) means "street," trída (abbreviated tr.) means "avenue," námestí (abbreviated nám.) is "square" or "plaza," most is "bridge," and nábrezí is "quay."

Prague is divided into 10 postal districts whose numbers are routinely included in addresses. The districts forming the main tourist areas are listed below with their corresponding neighborhoods.

Prague 1 -- Hradcany, Malá Strana, Staré Mesto, Josefov, northern Nové Mesto.

Prague 2 -- Southern Nové Mesto, Vysehrad, western Vinohrady.

Prague 3 -- Eastern Vinohrady, Zizkov.

Prague 6 -- Western Bubenec, Dejvice, Vokovice, Stresovice, Brevnov, Veleslavín, Liboc, Ruzyne, Repy, Nebusice, Lysolaje, Sedlec, Suchdol.

Prague 7 -- Holesovice, Letná

By Public Transportation

Prague's highly efficient public transportation network of metros (subways), trams, and buses (www.dpp.cz) is one of the few sound Communist-era legacies. In central Prague, metro stations abound. Trams and buses offer a cheap sightseeing experience but also require a strong stomach for jostling with fellow passengers in close quarters.

Tickets & Passes -- For single-use tickets, there are two choices. The first is a discount ticket, which costs 18Kc, or 9Kc for 6- to 15-year-olds (children 6 and under ride free), and this allows travel to up to five stations on the metro (not including the station of validation) or 20 minutes on a tram or bus. A full-price ticket costs 26Kc and allows for unlimited travel on metros, trams, and buses for up to 75 minutes (90 min. on Sat-Sun, public holidays, and after 8pm on workdays). The cheaper ticket is usually sufficient for short hops within the center, but note that you can't use it to transfer from metros to trams or between trams.

A 1-day pass good for unlimited travel is 100Kc, a 3-day pass 330Kc, and a 5-day pass is 500Kc. The 3- and 5-day passes include travel with one child from 6 to 15 years of age and only make sense if you are traveling with a child.

You can buy tickets from yellow coin-operated machines in metro stations or at most newsstands marked TABÁK or TRAFIKA. The machines have English instructions but are a little clunky to operate. First push the button for the ticket you want (either 18Kc or 26Kc) and then insert the money in the slot. Validate your ticket in little the stamping machine before you descend the escalator in the metro or as you enter the tram or bus. Hold on to your validated ticket throughout your ride -- you'll need to show it if a ticket collector (be sure to check for his or her badge) asks you. If you're caught without a valid ticket, you'll be asked, and not so kindly, to pay a fine on the spot while all the locals look on, shaking their heads in disgust. The fine is 700Kc if paid on the spot and 950Kc if paid later.

By Metro -- Metro trains operate daily from 5am to midnight and run every 2 to 10 minutes depending on the time of day. The three lines are identified by both letter and color: A (green), B (yellow), and C (red). The most convenient central stations are Muzeum, on both the A and C lines at the top of Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square); Mustek, on both the A and B lines at the foot of Václavské námestí; Staromestská on the A line, for Old Town Square and the Charles Bridge; and Malostranská, on the A line, serving Malá Strana and the Castle District. Refer to the metro map on the inside back cover for details.

By Tram & Bus -- The city's 24 tram lines run practically everywhere, and there's always another tram with the same number traveling back. You never have to hail trams; they make every stop. The most popular tram, no. 22 (aka the "tourist tram" or the "pickpocket express"), runs past top sights like the National Theater and Prague Castle. Regular bus and tram service stops at midnight, after which selected routes run reduced night schedules, usually only once per hour. Schedules are posted at stops. If you miss a night connection, expect a long wait for the next.

Buses tend to be used only outside the older districts of Prague and have three-digit numbers. Both the buses and tramlines begin their morning runs around 4:30am.

Getting the Most from Your Tram Fare -- If you're taking tram no. 22 to Prague Castle from Národní or anywhere farther from the castle, I recommend getting a 26Kc ticket. It is valid for 75 minutes of tram ride on weekdays (up to 90 min. after 8pm and on weekends). Use the 18Kc ticket only for a short travel distance (one or two tram stops) since it is only good for 20 minutes and you may get caught beyond this limit.

Riding the Rails in the Czech Capital -- While Prague has a fine metro and an extensive bus network, it's the tram -- tramvaj in Czech -- that sets the transportation tone for the city. Any visitor will be familiar with the sight of these (mostly) red and cream whales on rails, gliding smoothly over the cobblestones and pushing their girth through impossibly narrow streets that were originally built to accommodate horses but are now packed with cars, trucks, buses, and an endless stream of streetcars.

Tram no. 22 is a visitor's favorite. For the price of a 90-minute ticket -- 26Kc -- you can ride all the way from Prague Castle, down through the Lesser Quarter, across the Vltava (with stunning views of Charles Bridge to the left) and into the very center of town. Stay on the line and you're transported in minutes through the gentrifying suburb of Vinohrady, and out to the Communist-era, high-rise housing projects of Hostívar and beyond. You may even have some time left on your ticket to return to the center free of charge.

Prague's trams remain a repository of civility that long ago vanished from other aspects of city life. Visitors -- forced mostly to interact with waiters and shop clerks -- can sometimes get the impression that Czechs are gruff or rude. But step onto a tram and it's like going back 50 years in time. For example, it's still considered the height of ill manners on a crowded tram for a man to fail to offer his seat to women of a certain age. This societal nicety curiously doesn't apply as strictly to the city's newer and less-mannered metro.

The calculation of when and whether to offer a seat is not always easy in practice. It's clear if a woman is elderly, enfeebled, or with child in arms, but what if she's simply older and otherwise able-bodied? If you offer your seat too quickly, you risk reminding her of her age; too slowly and you might elicit the wrath of the rest of the car.

Younger women, too, are expected to yield their seats to older men, but an added dose of sensitivity is required. Male egos are notoriously fragile. A former work colleague of mine -- a man of about 60 and in pretty good shape -- once told me how depressed he became after an attractive young woman, on seeing him standing, immediately leapt out of her seat and offered it to him. He'd originally interpreted her smile and eye contact as flirtatious interest -- not unknown on Prague's trams.

Men are also expected to learn the delicate art of assisting young mothers with baby carriages. Though some of the newer trams stand fairly low to the ground, the older models are a good three steps up and in (or down and out). Once a woman has locked eyes on you as the carriage-holder, there's no polite way of refusing. To properly off-load a pram, wait for the tram to come to a complete stop, precede the carriage down the steps, take firm hold of the front axle, and deliver the baby gently to the ground.

Prague's trams are generally quiet and there's not much banter among the riders. This changes after 11pm, when the city's day fleet retires to the garages, and special night trams are brought into service to ferry revelers from pubs in the center to the housing projects on the outskirts. The mood at 3 or 4am can get raucous, and night trams are often little more than pubs on wheels. There are no laws against carrying open containers of alcohol (at least none rigorously enforced). Unlike in New York, for example, there's no need to swill from a paper bag.

Prague's extensive tram network sprang up in the early years of the 20th century, more or less concurrent with the country's independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The original electronic genius behind the system was a Czech, Frantisek Krízík, though it must be admitted the tram culture shares much in common with the empire's former capital, Vienna. Anyone who's spent much time there will feel easily at home here.

In a city that's now in the throes of remarkable change, the trams add a welcome sense of permanence. Looking at old tram maps from the 1920s and '30s, it's reassuring to see how little the basic layout has changed. The no. 12 tram still wends its way northward from the suburb of Smichov in the southwest across town to the neighborhood of Holesovice and beyond -- just as it did 70 years ago. The no. 17 tram still hugs the eastern bank of the Vltava for much of its run, as it always has. It's no stretch to say that a Czech Rip Van Winkle returning to the city from the 1930s would, in turns, be horrified and amazed to hear about the Nazi occupation, the Communist period, the Velvet Revolution, and now the European Union, but would have no trouble at all making his way home that night on the tram.

The future for Prague's trams looks secure. After a long period of neglect, the city appears committed to improving the tram infrastructure, including adding a new generation of super-sleek cars designed by none other than the Porsche group. These oversized, red and gray cars recall a kind of comic-book bullet train (even though trams top out at just 30 mph).

By Funicular -- The funicular (cog railway) makes the scenic run up and down Petrin Hill every 10 minutes (15 min. in winter season) daily from 9am to 11:30pm with an intermediate stop at the Nebozízek restaurant halfway up the hill, which overlooks the city. It requires the 26Kc ticket or any of the same transport passes as other modes of public transport and departs from a small house in the park near the Újezd tram stop (trams no. 12, 20, 22) in Malá Strana.

By Taxi

While the situation has gotten marginally better in recent years, you still run the risk of getting ripped off by a taxi driver if you hail a taxi off the street in a heavily touristy area like Václavské námestí or take one of the cabs parked at the main train station or at major hotels. A better idea is to call a taxi by phone or have your hotel or restaurant call one for you. Reputable companies with English-speaking dispatchers include: AAA Radiotaxi (tel. 14014 or 222-333-222; www.aaa-taxi.cz); ProfiTaxi (tel. 844-700-800; www.profitaxi.cz); or SEDOP (tel. 841-666-333; www.sedop.cz). AAA operates a few dedicated taxi stands around town, including ones conveniently located on Václavské námestí and Malostranské námestí, where you will find honest drivers.

The meter in an honest cab starts at 40Kc, 30Kc if you've ordered by phone, and it increases by 28Kc per kilometer. Fares around the center typically run from 100Kc to 200Kc, depending on the journey. A taxi from the center to the airport will cost around 600Kc.

Some tips for avoiding being ripped off: never get into an unmarked cab; ask the driver on entering what the approximate fare will be to your destination (he may not know exactly, but should be able to give some idea); make sure the driver has switched on the meter; and tell the driver you will need a receipt at the end of the ride. If you do get ripped off, it's better to pay the fare and learn a lesson than argue and end up with a bloody nose.

By Car

Driving in Prague isn't worth the money or effort. The roads are crowded and the high number of one-way streets can be incredibly frustrating. What's more, parking in the center is often restricted and available only to residents with pre-paid parking stickers. The only time you might want a car is if you only have a few days and plan to explore other parts of the Czech Republic.

Rental Companies -- Try Europcar, Elisky Krásnohorské 9, Prague 1 (tel. 224-811-290; www.europcar.cz). There's also Hertz, Karlovo nám. 15, Prague 2 (tel. 225-345-031; www.hertz.cz). Budget is at Prague Airport (tel. 220-560-443; www.budget.cz) and in the Hotel InterContinental, námestí Curieových 5, Prague 1 (tel. 222-319-595).

Local car-rental companies sometimes offer lower rates than the big international firms. Compare CS Czechocar, Kongresové centrum (Congress Center at Vysehrad metro stop on the C line), Prague 4 (tel. 261-222-079 or 261-222-143; www.czechocar.cz), or at Prague Airport, Prague 6 (tel. 220-113-454); or try SeccoCar, Prístavní 39, Prague 7 (tel. 220-800-647; www.seccocar.cz).

Car rates can be negotiable. Try to obtain the best possible deal with the rental company by asking about discounts. Special deals are often offered for keeping the car for an extended period, for unlimited mileage (or at least getting some miles thrown in free), or for a bigger car at a lower price. You can usually get some sort of discount for a company or an association affiliation. Check before you leave home and take a member ID card with you.

Roadways & Emergencies -- Major roadways radiate from Prague like spokes on a wheel, so touring the country is easy if you make the capital your base. The Prague-Brno (D1) motorway (dálnice) is the most traveled, but the new Prague-Nürnberg (D5) motorway has opened a 2-hour express route into western Germany. In addition, the D-8 motorway is now complete all the way to Dresden to the north. You are advised to check the most recent map before you travel. Alternatively, see www.ceskedalnice.cz, where you will find updates on the newly built motorways. If you are going to use any of these, you have to purchase a special stamp-sticker (dálnicní známky), which goes on your windshield. Most filling stations and post offices sell them. The sticker costs 220Kc for 1 week, 330Kc for 1 month, or 1,000Kc for the calendar year. Rental cars should come with a valid stamp already.

Czech roads are often narrow and in need of repair. Add to this drivers who live out their Formula One race fantasies on these potholed beauties, and taking the train sounds a lot more appealing. The few superhighways that do exist are in good shape, so whenever possible, stick to them, especially at night. If you have car trouble, major highways have SOS emergency phones to call for assistance, located about every 1km (half mile). There's also the ÚAMK, a 24-hour auto club like AAA that can provide service for a fee. You can summon its bright yellow pickup trucks on the main highways by using the emergency phones. If you're not near an SOS phone or are on a road without them, you can contact ÚAMK at tel. 1230 (www.uamk.cz), or ABA, another emergency assistance company, at tel. 1240 (www.aba.cz).

In theory, foreign drivers are required to have an international driver's license, though this is often overlooked in practice and short-term visitors are fine with a valid national driver's licenses. Cars must also carry proof of insurance (a green card issued with rental cars), registration (in Czech technický prukaz), as well as a first aid kit in the trunk. Czech police are infamous for stopping cars with foreign plates, and the "fines" they exact are often negotiable. If you're stopped, expect to pay at least 1,000Kc for speeding or other common infractions like not having your headlights on during the day. Those caught by the police should ask for some type of receipt (úcet in Czech, pronounced oo-chet); this can help cut down on overpayment.

Gasoline -- Not only are car rentals expensive, gasoline (benzín) in the Czech Republic costs much more than you're accustomed to paying -- around 30Kc per liter, or 120Kc per gallon. Filling stations can be found on all major highways. Most are open 24 hours, and many have minimarkets with food and drink as well. If you're leaving the country, fill up near the border, as the price of gas in Austria and Germany can be higher still.

Parking -- Finding a parking spot in Prague can be more challenging than driving in this maze of a city. Fines for illegal parking can be stiff, but worse are "Denver Boots," which immobilize cars until a fine is paid. If you find your car booted, call the number on the ticket, tell them where you are, wait for the clamp removers, and pay them 1,500Kc or more depending on the violation. Much of the center of Prague has restricted parking available only to residents (these are marked out by blue lines painted on the curb and street). Here and there you'll find a few zones where paid street parking is permitted. In these areas, you will have to feed coins into a central parking meter, which will then issue a slip that you place on the dashboard so that it is visible through the windshield.

Special Driving Rules -- Drivers are required to use headlights night and day year-round. Seat belts are required, and you cannot legally make a right turn when a traffic light is red. Automobiles must stop when a pedestrian steps into a crosswalk (however, they often don't, as you'll find when you're walking around). Children under 1.5m (about 5 ft.) tall are not permitted to ride in the front seat. On major highways, the speed limit is 130kmph (81 mph). The yellow diamond road sign denotes the right of way at an unregulated intersection. When approaching an intersection, always check to see who has the right of way, since the "main" road can change several times within blocks on the same street. Drinking and driving is strictly prohibited and the allowable blood-alcohol content is zero. You'll get a very steep fine if you're caught.

By Bike

Prague has a growing number of specially marked bike lanes, including a long and popular run that follows the Vltava River south of the center from the National Theater and another that starts around the Prague Zoo and follows the Vltava northward toward Germany. The city's ubiquitous cobblestones make mountain bikes (with fat tires) the natural choice. Two companies in central Prague specialize in rentals (and also give organized bike tours): Praha Bike, Dlouhá 24, Prague 1 (tel. 732-388-880; www.prahabike.cz) and City Bike, Králodvorská 5, Prague 1 (tel. 776-180-284; www.citybike-prague.com).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Prague and the Czech Republic are relatively tolerant, and gay and lesbian travelers are not likely to encounter any problems. The Prague neighborhood of Vinohrady is particularly gay-friendly, and several gay clubs and bars have opened up in recent years.

In addition, there are a couple of hotels and guesthouses around town that cater to a largely or exclusively gay clientele.

The legal situation for gays and lesbians is relatively good. Same-sex partnerships are protected under Czech law and contain many of the legal protections of marriage, though same-sex couples are not permitted to adopt children. Overt discrimination on the basis of sexual preference is against the law.

The Czech GayGuide (www.czechgayguide.org) and GayGuide Prague (www.prague.gayguide.net) are both excellent resources for happenings, bars, restaurants, and clubs. Both are in English and written with visitors in mind. The latter site includes information on the gay scene in Warsaw, Kraków, and Sofia as well as Prague.

Tips for Families

Prague is not a particularly child-friendly destination. Certainly, kids will get a kick out of riding around on the trams and metros and younger children may show an interest in the fairy-tale castles and ancient history, but this isn't Disneyland, and after a few hours of hitting the cobblestones a little boredom is likely to set in.

Fortunately, Prague is not just dusty museums and history lessons on Gothic architecture. Some ideas for kids include the Prague Zoo, the National Technical Museum (stuffed with old trains and cars), an afternoon swimming at the Podolí public pool and even just feeding the swans on the banks of the Vltava.

For a list of more family-friendly travel resources, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Prague and the Czech Republic have been slow to encourage and adopt sustainable tourism practices. Part of the blame, like everything else, goes to Communism. For 40 years from 1948 to 1989, industries, roads, and vast public housing tracts were built up with scant concern for their effect on the environment. By the time of the Velvet Revolution in 1989, the city and country were on a downward ecological spiral. Large areas in the north of the country had been destroyed by strip mining and acid rain produced by rampant coal burning. In Prague, the air was unbreathable during winter inversions, when slow-moving high-pressure systems would trap dirty air in the lower atmosphere. On those days children would be bused out of the city to camps in the countryside. The city was still pumping raw sewage into the Vltava River.

The good news is that the city authorities have taken big steps toward cleaning up the air and the river. Much of the city is now heated by natural gas, not coal, leaving the air much cleaner in the winter months -- though a huge increase in car ownership has mitigated some of these gains. Sewage is now treated before it's released into the river. The water is still too polluted to swim in, but every year brings an improvement in water quality.

Much remains to be done. Auto exhaust, for one, remains a significant source of air pollution. In the outlying areas, property developers have transformed large swaths of land into residential and office complexes, destroying green areas and adding more roads and cars to the mix. On a more subtle note, the massive increase in tourism in the past 20 years has contributed to a form of cultural environmental damage, where once thriving urban areas in the center have been transformed into largely tourist-only zones. High-rent souvenir shops, selling cheap glass and T-shirts, have forced out legitimate shops and services, and high rents have pushed ordinary Czechs into other parts of town.

There are signs that the national and municipal authorities are aware of the problems, but are still at odds at how best to solve the problems while keeping the city's economy, particularly its very important tourism industry, on track. The 2009 global economic recession didn't help matters.

While there is not much you can do as a short-term visitor, it's at least good to be aware of the impact your trip is having on the local economy. In general, when shopping, try to avoid the dozens of shops in the center, especially along Karlova street, that traffic in cheap, mass-produced items like factory-made puppets, Russian nesting dolls, and fake KGB hats that are not made locally and have little connection to the Czech Republic. Seek out instead the smaller stores, away from the action, that offer genuine, high-quality Czech made goods, like handmade puppets and jewelry from Czech garnets. In our shopping section, we've identified some of these places. A small but growing number of hotels have adopted sustainable practices, such as curbing unnecessary water use and recycling, but there's still much room for improvement on this front. For further information on steps the Czech government is taking toward protecting the environment, turn to the website of the Czech Ministry of the Environment (www.mzp.cz).

The not-for-profit Friends of Czech Greenways (www.pragueviennagreenways.org) is a foundation dedicated to promoting ecofriendly tourism by building up an infrastructure of hiking, biking, and water routes around the country, including several projects in Prague.

More Resources

In addition to the above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Prague was originally developed as four adjacent self-governing boroughs, plus a walled Jewish ghetto. Central Prague's neighborhoods have maintained their individual identities along with their medieval street plans.

Hradcany (Castle District) -- The Castle District dominates the hilltop above Malá Strana. Here you'll find not only the fortress that remains the presidential palace and national seat of power, but also the seat of religious authority in the country, St. Vitus Cathedral, as well as the Loreto Church, Strahov Monastery, and the European masters branch of the national art gallery. You can take a scenic walk down the hill via Nerudova or through the lush Petrín Hill gardens.

Malá Strana (Lesser Town) -- Prague's storybook Lesser Town was founded in 1257 by Germanic merchants who set up shop at the base of the castle. Nestled between the bastion and the river Vltava, Malá Strana is laced with narrow, winding lanes boasting palaces, and red-roofed town houses. The parliament and government and several embassies reside in palaces here. Kampa Park, on the riverbank just south of Charles Bridge, forms the southeastern edge of Lesser Town. Nerudova is the steep, shop-lined alley leading from the town square to the castle. Alternate castle routes for the strong of heart are the New Castle Stairs (Nové zámecké schody), 1 block north of Nerudova, and the Old Castle Stairs (Staré zámecké schody), just northwest from the Malostranská metro station. Tram no. 22 will take you up the hill if you don't want to make the heart-pounding hike.

Staré Mesto (Old Town) -- Staré Mesto was chartered in 1234, as Prague became a stop on important trade routes. Its meandering streets, radiating from Staromestské námestí (Old Town Sq.), are still big visitor draws. Old Town is compact, bordered by the Vltava on the north and west and Revolucní and Národní streets on the east and south. You can wander safely without having to worry about straying into danger. Once here, stick to the cobblestone streets and don't cross any bridges, any streets containing tram tracks, or any rivers, and you'll know that you're still in Old Town. You'll stumble across beautiful Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque architecture and find some wonderful restaurants, shops, bars, cafes, and pubs.

Josefov -- Prague's Jewish ghetto, entirely within Staré Mesto, was surrounded by a wall before almost being completely destroyed to make way for more modern 19th-century apartment buildings. The Old-New Synagogue is in the geographical center of Josefov, and the surrounding streets are wonderful for strolling. Prague is one of Europe's great historic Jewish cities, and exploring this remarkable area will make it clear why.

Nové Mesto (New Town) -- Draped like a crescent around Staré Mesto, Nové Mesto is where you'll find Václavské námestí (Wenceslas Square), the National Theater, and the central business district. When it was founded by Charles IV in 1348, Nové Mesto was Europe's largest wholly planned municipal development. The street layout has remained largely unchanged, but many of Nové Mesto's structures were razed in the late 19th century and replaced with the offices and apartment buildings you see today. New Town lacks the classical allure of Old Town and Malá Strana, but if you venture beyond Wenceslas Square into Vinohrady you'll find restaurants, interesting shops, and a part of Prague that feels more like a normal city instead of a tourist attraction.

Visitor Information

The official tourist information service for the Czech Republic is the Czech Tourist Authority, known as CzechTourism (www.czechtourism.com). They have offices in several countries abroad and can help make basic travel arrangements and answer questions.

In the U.S., the CzechTourism office is at 1109 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10028 (tel. 212/288-0830, ext. 101).

In Canada: CzechTourism is at 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1500, Toronto, M4W 3E2 (tel. 416/363-9928).

In the U.K., contact CzechTourism at 13 Harley St., London W1G 9QG (tel.) 0207-631-0427).

The agency has no formal representation in Australia.

Once in Prague, the main tourist information center is the Prague Information Service (PIS; tel. 221-714-444; www.prague-info.cz), with offices at the Old Town Hall on Old Town Square, several other points around the city, and at the main train station and airport. PIS hands out maps, organizes tours and can help book rooms.

Helpful websites include www.mapy.cz, an online map and journey planner that covers Prague and the entire Czech Republic. Simply type in an address and a map shows you exactly where it is. For the ins and outs of public transportation system, including maps and info on tickets and travel passes, go to www.dp-praha.cz/en.

The site www.idos.cz provides an online timetable for trains and buses, including international destinations. Just type in the city (using the Czech spellings, such as "Praha" for Prague, but note the diacritical marks are not required) and you'll get a complete listing of train and bus connections.

For the main website for the National Gallery in Prague, including practical information, admissions fees, and opening times for many of the city major museums, go to www.ngprague.cz.

Tips on Accommodations

The past 5 years have seen a boom in hotel construction in Prague. The room shortage that plagued the city in the 1990s has been overcome and if anything the city now has a surplus of rooms. That's good news for travelers, since it means the overly high prices for lodging might start to fall. That already started to happen somewhat in the summer of 2009, when the global recession cut demand for rooms and hotels were suddenly offering deeply discounted prices over their Internet websites.

Most of the boom in hotels has come in the high-end segment, and Prague now has some of central Europe's most beautiful hotels. Many of the best are in reconstructed town palaces that combine fabled historic settings and architecture with modern comfort and services. The years 2008 and 2009 alone saw the opening of several new five-star properties, including a Buddha Bar, a Kempinski, and a new Sheraton. The openings, however, couldn't have come at a worse time given the global economy, and as this guide was being researched all three were offering big reductions on the rack rate just to generate traffic. That may continue to hold in 2010, but the lesson remains that it's always a good idea to check in for deals at the hotel website and it never hurts to bargain for a lower rate.

The number and range of medium-priced and cheaper options has not kept pace with the growth of more expensive properties, and Prague continues to have a shortage of low-cost accommodation. Fortunately, the past few years have seen the arrival on the market of a new breed of luxury hostel, offering boutique hotel ambience at prices that are not much higher than a youth hostel. Another way to beat the high cost of lodging is to book an apartment. These make sense if you're staying 3 days or longer. While you sacrifice something in terms of hotel services, you often get significantly lower rates per night as well as an efficiency kitchen to prepare some of your own meals.

With a very efficient metro and tram system, it is relatively easy to stay in one part of Prague and quickly visit another quarter, but if you want to awaken with the Golden City glowing in your window, a room with a view in Old Town or Malá Strana is worth the splurge. For tips on surfing for hotel deals online, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Getting There

By Plane

Prague Airport (code PRG; tel. 220-113-314; www.prg.aero) is the main international air gateway to the Czech Republic. The airport lies in the suburb of Ruzyne about 18km (12 miles) northwest of the center. The airport has two passenger terminals: North 1 and North 2 (in Czech: Severin 1 and Severin 2). North 1 handles destinations outside the European Union, including overseas flights to and from the U.S. as well as flights from the U.K. (which is outside the E.U.'s Schengen common border zone). North 2 handles what are considered to be internal flights within the European Union, including flights to and from France, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland.

Prague is well served by the major European and international carriers, including several budget airlines. The Czech national carrier, CSA (www.czechairlines.com) operates regular direct service to New York's JFK airport, as well as Toronto. Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) offers regular direct service between Prague and both New York JFK and Atlanta.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Taxis are the quickest but most expensive option. Two cab companies are licensed to operate at the airport. The more reliable of the two is AAA Radiotaxi (tel. 222-333-222; www.aaa-taxi.cz), look for the yellow cabs lined up outside both main terminals, North 1 and North 2. Fares with AAA average about 600Kc to the center. The trip normally takes about 25 minutes, but the drive can run as long as an hour during rush hour.

If you're staying in the immediate center of town, a cheaper alternative is to share a minibus operated by CEDAZ (tel. 221-111-111; www.cedaz.cz). Minibuses run regularly between the airport and the center for a flat fee of 480Kc for groups of one to four persons. CEDAZ also takes individual passengers from the airport to V celnici street in central Prague (near Námestí Republiky) for 120Kc per person.

The most affordable option is public transportation. City bus no. 119 stops at both terminals and runs regularly from the airport to the Dejvická metro station (on Line A), from where the center is just three metro stops away. Bus no. 100 runs south from the airport to the area of Zlicín and connects to metro Line B. Travel on both requires a 26Kc ticket purchased from yellow ticketing machines at the bus stop (note that the machines only accept change), or 30Kc if bought from the driver (exact change appreciated). Buy two tickets if you're carrying large luggage. A special Airport Express (designated "AE" on buses) runs to and from Prague's main train station and costs 50Kc per person each way. This is convenient if you are connecting directly to an international train.

By Car

Prague is easily accessible by major highway from around Europe. The main four-lane highways leading into and out of the city include the D1 motorway running south and east to Brno (2 hr.), Bratislava (3 hr.), and with connections to Kraków (8 hr.) and Budapest (6 hr.); the D5 motorway running southwest to Plzen (Pilsen; 1 hr.) and Nuremberg (3 hr.), with connections to Italy and points in southern and western Europe; and the D8 running north to Dresden (2 hr.) and eventually Berlin (5 hr.). Vienna is about 5 hours by car, with most of the way along crowded two-lane highway.

Rentals -- Rental cars are widely available and many of the big international agencies have offices either in town or at Prague Airport. To rent a car you must be at least 18 years old (though many rental agencies require drivers to be at least 23 or even 25) and hold a valid driver's license from your home country (U.S. states' licenses are acceptable).

Rental prices can be high, with daily rates starting at around 750Kc a day/unlimited mileage for an economy car, rising to about 1,500Kc per day for a full-sized car. Tips for getting a lower rate include renting in advance over the Internet or through Internet aggregators like Expedia.com, or opting for local agencies rather than the big internationals. It's also cheaper to rent from in-town agencies rather than the airport, since airport rentals must pay an airport surcharge.

Rental prices normally include unlimited mileage, VAT, and obligatory liability insurance, though the vehicle itself may not be insured against damage (be sure to ask). Some credit card companies insure cardholders against collision damage at no extra charge when they rent a car using the company's card. The car's insurance green card is required if you intend to drive the car outside the Czech Republic.

By Train

Prague lies on major European rail lines, with good connections to Dresden (2 hr.) and Berlin (5 hr.) to the north, and Brno (2-3 hr.), Vienna (4-5 hr.), Bratislava (3 hr.), and Budapest (7 hr.) to the south and east. New high-speed rail service, the Pendolino, has been introduced on the Prague-Vienna run, shortening the travel time on some trains to as little as 4 hours. More high-speed rail links are on the drawing board.

Prague has two international train stations, so makes sure to ask which station your train is using when you buy your ticket. Most international trains arrive at the main station, Hlavní nádrazí (Wilsonova 80, Prague 1; tel. 224-614-071; www.cd.cz; metro stop: Hlavní] nádrazí, Line C). Trains to and from Berlin, Vienna, and Budapest, however, often stop at the northern suburban station, Nádrazí Holesovice (Vrbenského ul., Prague 7; tel. 224-615-865; www.cd.cz; metro stop: Nádrazí] Holesovice, Line C). Train information is available at tel. 840-112-113 or on the web at http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz.

Of the two main stations, Hlavní nádrazí is the larger and more popular, but it's also seedier. Built in 1909, this once beautiful four-story Art Nouveau structure was one of the city's beloved architectural gems before it was connected to a darkly modern dispatch hall in the mid-1970s. It has been neglected for years, but at this writing a massive reconstruction of the building complex and its surroundings is underway. From the train platform, you'll walk down a flight of stairs and through a tunnel before arriving in the ground-level main hall, which contains ticket windows, a useful Prague Information Service office that sells city maps and dispenses information, and restrooms. Also useful is the CD center (tel. 840-112-113; www.cd.cz) run by the Czech Railways. It provides domestic and international train information as well as currency exchange and accommodations services. It is open daily 7 to 11am, 11:30am to 2pm, and 2:30 to 5:45pm. Visa and MasterCard are accepted. The station's basement has luggage lockers, but they aren't secure and should be avoided.

After you leave the modern terminal hall, a 5- to 10-minute walk to the left puts you at the top of Wenceslas Square and 15 minutes by foot from Old Town Square. Metro line C connects the station easily to the other two subway lines and the rest of the city. Metro trains depart from the lower level, and tickets are available from the newsstand near the metro entrance. Gouging taxi drivers line up outside the station and are plentiful throughout the day and night but are not recommended.

Prague has two smaller train stations. Masaryk Station, Hybernská ul., Prague 1 (tel. 221-111-122), is primarily for travelers arriving on trains originating from other Bohemian cities. Situated about 10 minutes by foot from the main train station, Masaryk is near Staré Mesto, just a stone's throw from námestí Republiky metro station. Smíchov Station, Nádrazní ul. at Rozkosného, Prague 5 (tel. 224-617-686), is the terminus for commuter trains from western and southern Bohemia, though it's a convenient station for getting to popular day trip destinations like Karlstejn and Plzen. The station has a 24-hour baggage check and is serviced by metro line B.

By Bus

The Central Bus Station-Florenc, Krizíkova 4-6, Prague 8 (tel. 900-144-444; www.florenc.cz for timetable info), is a few blocks north of the main train station. Most local and long-distance buses arrive here. The adjacent Florenc metro station is on both lines B (yellow) and C (red). Florenc station is relatively small and doesn't have many visitor services. There are even smaller bus depots at Zelivského (metro line A), Smíchovské nádrazí (metro line B), and Nádrazí Holesovice (metro line C).

Money

The Czech Republic is not as cheap a destination as it was a few years ago but remains generally less expensive than western Europe. Prices for everyday travel expenses like food and drink (especially beer), hotels, and museum admissions are substantially less than they would be in Paris or London. The exceptions are rental cars (and gasoline), hotels, and imported clothing and other luxury goods, for which prices are as high as anywhere else.

At press time, one U.S. dollar was worth about 18Kc, one euro about 25Kc and one British pound about 30Kc.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The Czech currency is the crown (koruna in Czech). It is usually noted as "Kc" in shops and "CZK" in banks. One crown, in theory, is divided into 100 haler, though halers no longer circulate. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 crowns. Bills come in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 crowns. The euro is not in circulation in the Czech Republic, though euros are sometimes accepted at large hotels and larger shops. Many hotels list their rates in euros for the convenience of foreign guests, though of course you always have the option of paying in crowns. Long gone are the days when Czech merchants would accept U.S. dollars as payment for goods.

Changing money is not a problem in the Czech Republic. If you're arriving at Prague Airport, skip the currency-exchange booths in the arrivals hall and instead use the ATMs that are lined up just as you enter the main airport hall from customs clearance. Banks and ATM machines generally offer the best rates and lowest commissions. Local ATMs work with a four-digit PIN; before leaving home make sure that you have a four-digit PIN and let your bank or credit card company know that you will be abroad so they don't protectively block your account once they see a few foreign transactions come through.

Resist the temptation to use one of the private currency-exchange offices that line Václavské námestí and other areas with heavy tourist concentrations. These outfits seldom pay the rates they advertise on the outside and the commissions (and hidden commissions) can be prohibitive, especially on relatively small amounts of money. If you must use one of these private currency exchanges, before surrendering your bills, show them to the teller through the window and then ask him or her to write down the amount in Czech crowns that you will receive. Once you've handed over the money, it's too late.

Komercní banka has three convenient Prague 1 locations with ATMs that accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express: Na Príkope 33, Spálená 51, and Václavské nám. 42 (tel. 800-111-055, central switchboard for all branches; www.kb.cz). The exchange offices are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm, but the ATMs are accessible 24 hours.

Credit and debit cards are increasingly common and many shops, restaurants and hotels accept them. Stores may impose a minimum purchase amount for using a card. Traveler's checks, on the other hand, have become much less common in recent years and much harder to use. As a rule, only large banks will cash traveler's checks; hotels and restaurants are not likely to accept them.