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The preferred residence of the Amalfi doges -- who loved the beautiful views over Positano, Amalfi, and the Faraglioni of Capri -- Praiano is still popular among Italians (and an increasing number of glitz-phobic foreign visitors) for the same reason. The twin villages of Praiano and Vettica Maggiore, to the west, occupy the two faces of the promontory known as Capo Sottile. With a graceful profusion of porticos and domes, the medieval village is 120m (394 ft.) above sea level on the slopes of Monte Sant'Angelo. Strolling along the steep streets you'll encounter the church of San Gennaro -- technically in Vettica Maggiore -- crowned by a beautiful oval dome tiled with colored majolica. Its 18th-century majolica floor was re-created in 1966 according to the original design. The view from the church square is superb.

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