Planning a trip to Provence and the Riviera

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Business hours in France can be erratic. Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 4:30pm. Many, particularly in small towns in Provence, take a long lunch break. Hours are usually posted on the door. Most museums close 1 day a week (often Mon or Tues), and they’re generally closed on national holidays. Usual hours are from 10am to 7pm. In Marseille or other big French cities, stores are open from around 10am to 7pm, with or without a lunch break (up to 2 hr.). Some shops, delis, cafes, and newsstands open at 8am and close at 8 or 9pm.

Disabled Travelers -- Facilities for travelers in the South of France, and nearly all new or modern hotels, provide disabled access. The TGVs (high-speed trains) are wheelchair accessible; older trains have compartments for wheelchair boarding. Handiplage (handiplage.fr) has a detailed map and breakdown of every French beach that offers accessible to disabled visitors.

Doctors -- Doctors are listed in Pages Jaunes (Yellow Pages; www.pagesjaunes.fr) under “Médecins: Médecins généralistes.” The minimum fee for a consultation is about 23€—for this rate, look for a doctor who is described as “secteur 1.” The higher the “secteur,” the higher the fee. SOS Médecins (www.sosmedecins.fr; 📞 36-24) can make house calls. See also “Emergencies” and “Health” later in this section.

Drinking Laws -- As well as bars and restaurants, supermarkets and cafes sell alcoholic beverages. The legal drinking age is 18, but persons under that age can be served alcohol if accompanied by a parent or guardian. Drinking and driving is illegal, and incurs a heavy fine. Drinking wine on the beach, however, seems de rigueur.

Drugstores -- Spot French pharmacies by the green neon cross above the door. If your local pharmacy is closed, there should be a sign on the door indicating the nearest one open. Alternatively, Pharmacies de Garde (www.pharmaciesdegarde.com or www.3237.fr; 📞 32-37) can direct you to the nearest open pharmacy.

Electricity -- Electricity in France runs on 220 volts AC (60 cycles). Adapters or transformers are needed to fit sockets, which you can buy in branches of Darty or FNAC.

Embassies & Consulates -- If you have a passport, immigration, legal, or other problem, contact your consulate. Most countries have representatives in Paris, although a few maintain a presence in either Marseille or Nice. Many are open Monday to Friday, approximately 10am to 5pm. However, call or check online before you visit to confirm.

• Australian Embassy: 4 rue Jean-Rey, 15e Paris (www.france.embassy.gov.au; 📞 01-40-59-33-00; Métro: Bir Hakeim).
• Canadian Embassy: 35 av. Montaigne, 8e Paris (www.amb-canada.fr; 📞 01-44-43-29-00; Métro: Franklin-D-Roosevelt or Alma-Marceau). Regional consulate at 2 place Franklin, Nice (📞 04-93-92-93-22).
• Irish Embassy: 4 rue Rude, 16e Paris (www.embassyofireland.fr; 📞 01-44-17-67-00; Métro: Argentine).
• New Zealand Embassy: 7ter rue Léonard de Vinci, 16e Paris (www.nzembassy.com/france; 📞 01-45-01-43-43; Métro: Victor Hugo).
• UK/British Embassy: 35 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e Paris (http://ukinfrance.fco.gov.uk; 📞 01-44-51-34-00; Métro: Concorde or Madeleine). Regional consulate at 24 avenue du Prado, Marseille (📞 04-91-15-72-10).
• United States Embassy: 2 av. Gabriel, 8e Paris (http://france.usembassy.gov; 📞 01-43-12-22-22; Métro: Concorde). Regional consulate at place Varian Fry, Marseille (📞 04-91-54-92-00).

Emergencies -- In an emergency while at a hotel, contact the front desk. If the emergency involves theft, go to the police station in person. Otherwise, call 📞 112 from a cellphone. The fire brigade can be reached at 📞 18. For an ambulance, call 📞 15. For the police, call 📞 17.

Etiquette & Customs -- French value pleasantries and take manners seriously: Say “Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur” when entering an establishment and “Au revoir” when you depart. Always say “Pardon” when you accidentally bump into someone. With strangers, people who are older than you and professional contacts use vous rather than tu (vous is the polite form of the pronoun you).

Health -- For travel abroad, Non–E.U. nationals should consider buying medical travel insurance. For U.S. citizens, Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs incurred abroad; check your health insurance before leaving home. U.K. nationals need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-cost medical care during a visit to a France.

If you take regular medication, pack it in its original pharmacy containers, along with a copy of your prescription.

Holidays -- Major holidays are New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Easter Sunday and Monday (late March/April), Labor Day (May 1), VE Day (May 8), Ascension Thursday (40 days after Easter), Pentecost/Whit Sunday and Whit Monday (seventh Sun/Mon after Easter), Bastille Day (July 14), Assumption Day (Aug 15), All Saints Day (Nov 1), Armistice Day (Nov 11), and Christmas Day (Dec 25).

Hotlines -- SOS Help is a hotline for English-speaking callers in crisis 📞 01-46-21-46-46 (www.soshelpline.org). Open 3 to 11pm daily.

LGBT Travelers -- France is one of the world’s most tolerant countries toward gays and lesbians. Indeed, its tourism bureaus welcome LGBT travelers with open arms. Nice in particular boasts a large gay population, with many clubs, restaurants, organizations, and dedicated services. For local information, visit www.gay-provence.org. Gayvox (www.gayvox.fr) has updated listings about the gay and lesbian scene.

Mail -- Most post offices in France are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm and every Saturday from 8am to noon. Allow 5 to 8 days to send or receive mail from home. Stamps are also sold in tabacs (tobacconists). For more information, see www.laposte.fr.

Mobile Phones -- You can use your mobile phone in France, provided it is GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) and tri-band or quad-band; just confirm with your operator before you leave.

Using your phone abroad can be expensive, so it’s a good idea to get it “unlocked” before you leave. This means you can buy a French SIM card from one of the three main French providers, Bouygues Télécom (www.bouyguestelecom.fr), Orange (www.orange.fr), or SFR (www.sfr.fr). Or do like the locals do and use Skype (www.skype.com) for long-distance calls.

Money & Costs -- Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com to check current rates.

It’s always advisable to bring a mix of cash and credit cards on vacation. Before you leave home, exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel. Alternatively, withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM. In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees and terrible exchange rates. ATMs are widely available in France.

Newspapers -- The most popular French newspapers are Le Monde (www.lemonde.fr), Le Figaro (www.lefigaro.fr), and left-leaning Libération (www.liberation.fr).

The English-language International New York Times (international.nytimes.com), based in Paris and published Monday to Saturday, is distributed all over France.

Packing Tips -- Remember that the bulk of hotel rooms in France are small indeed. Try to adhere to the old traveling maxim, “pack half of what you think you need.” You will always actually need far less than you imagine. And you can easily purchase any missing items—along with the copious souvenirs you’ll pick up too—along the way.

Passports -- Citizens of the U.K., New Zealand, Australia, Canada, and the United States need a valid passport to enter France. The passport is valid for a stay of 90 days.

Police -- In an emergency, call 📞 17 from a landline or 📞 112 from a mobile phone anywhere in France.

Safety -- The most common menace, especially in large cities, is the plague of pickpockets. Take precautions and be vigilant at all times: Don’t take more money with you than necessary, keep your passport in a concealed pouch or leave it at your hotel, and ensure that your bag is firmly closed at all times. In cafes, bars, and restaurants, it’s best not to leave your bag under the table, on the back of your chair, or on an empty chair beside you. Keep it between your legs or on your lap. Never leave valuables or luggage in a car, and never travel with your car unlocked.

In general, the South of France is a safe region and it is safe wander from restaurants to bars late at night, though it is always best to not drawn attention to the fact you are foreign by speaking loudly in English. Use common sense when taking public transport at night.

Although there is a significant level of discrimination against West and North African immigrants, there has been almost no harassment of African-American tourists to France in recent decades. However. S.O.S. Racisme, 51 av. de Flandre, 19e (www.sos-racisme.org; 📞 01-40-35-36-55), offers legal advice to victims of prejudice and will even intervene to help with the police.

Female travelers should not expect any more hassle than in other major cities, and the same precautions apply. Avoid walking alone at night and never get into an unmarked taxi. If you are approached in the street or on public transportation, it’s best to avoid entering into conversation, and walk into a well-lit, populated area.

Senior Travel -- The South of France is stocked with retirees. It’s little surprise that Menton, the sunniest town on the southern coast, has the most number of seniors in the country. Many discounts are available countrywide to men and women over 60. National trains have senior discounts. Check out www.voyages-sncf.com for more information. Frommers.com offers more information and resources on travel for seniors.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in all public places in France, including cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs. It’s permitted (dare we say popular) on outdoor and semi-enclosed terraces.

Student Travel -- Student discounts are less common in France than other countries, but simply because young people 25 and under are usually offered reduced rates. SNCF also offer discounts for 25-and-unders traveling on national trains (www.voyages-sncf.com).

Taxes -- As a member of the European Union, France routinely imposes a value-added tax (VAT in English; TVA in French) on most goods. The standard VAT is 20 percent, and prices that include it are often marked TTC (toutes taxes comprises, “all taxes included”). If you’re not an E.U. resident, you can get a VAT refund if you’re spending fewer than 6 months in France, you purchase goods worth at least 175€ at a single shop on the same day, the goods fit into your luggage, and the shop offers vente en détaxe (duty-free sales or tax-free shopping).

Telephones -- Public phones can still be found in France. All require a phone card (known as a télécarte), which can be purchased at post offices or tabacs.

The country code for France is 33. To make a local or long-distance call within France, dial the person or place’s 10-digit number. If you’re calling from outside of France, drop the initial 0 (zero).

Time -- France is on Central European Time, which is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. French daylight saving time lasts from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October, when clocks are set 1 hour ahead of the standard time. France uses the 24-hour clock (so 13h is 1pm, 14h15 is 2:15pm, and so on).

Tipping -- By law, all bills in cafes, bars, and restaurants say service compris, which means the service charge is included. However, it is customary to leave 1€ or 2€, depending on the quality of the service; in more upscale restaurants leave 5€ to 10€. Taxi drivers usually expect a 5 percent to 10 percent tip, or for the fare to be rounded up to the next euro. The French tip hairdressers around 15 percent, and if you go to the theater, you’re expected to tip the usher about 2€.

Toilets -- If you’re in dire need, duck into a cafe or brasserie to use the lavatory. It’s customary to make a small purchase if you do so. France still has some hole-in-the-ground squat toilets. Try not to lose your change down the pan!

Visas -- E.U. nationals don’t need a visa to enter France. Nor do U.S., Canadian, Australian, New Zealand, or South African citizens for trips of up to 3 months. Nationals of other countries should make inquiries or look online at the nearest French embassy or consulate.

Visitor Information -- Before you go, your best source of information is the French Government Tourist Office (www.francetourism.com).

Water -- Drinking water is generally safe. If you ask for water in a restaurant, it’ll be served bottled (for which you’ll pay), unless you specifically request une carafe d'eau or l’eau du robinet (tap water). Your waiter may ask if you’d like your water avec gas (carbonated) or sans gas (without bubbles).

Money

France, and especially the Riviera, is an expensive destination. Part of the problem is the value-added tax (VAT -- called TVA in France), which tacks between 6% and 33% onto everything. If you need to exchange currency, do so at a bank, not a currency exchange desk, hotel, or shop. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), also known as a cash machine or a cashpoint. In French they are called a guichet automatique or a distributeur de billets. ATMs are very common and easy to find in all cities, towns, and major villages in Provence and the Riviera. As they are outside of banks, they can be accessed at all hours. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Fees for international transactions can be extortionate. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. Visa (known as Carte Bleue in French) is the most common credit card in France, but most international credit cards are widely used. In an attempt to reduce credit card fraud, French credit cards are issued with an embedded chip and a PIN to authorize transactions. Most credit card transactions are done with handheld machines which might not be able to read U.S. and Canadian cards. Non-French cards (which don't have a chip) do work but they print a slip that requires a signature. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

There are still shops, restaurants and bars, often family run, that don't accept credit or debit cards, so it's always good to both check in advance and have cash on you. The minimum amount you have to spend to use a credit or debit card is slowly decreasing, but in some shops and bars, again often smaller businesses, it can be as high as 15€.

For help with currency conversions, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools To Go icon.

What Things Cost in Nice -- Euro (€)

Taxi from the airport to central Nice 22.00-32.00

Bus ride within the city center 1.00

Double room, very expensive (Hôtel Negresco) 245.00-615.00

Double room, moderate (Le Dortoir) 100.00-200.00

Double room, inexpensive (Villa La Tour) 48.00-139.00

Lunch for one without wine, expensive 25.00

Lunch for one without wine, inexpensive 13.00

Dinner for one without wine, very expensive 90.00

Dinner for one without wine, inexpensive 14.00

Glass of wine in a cafe 4.00

Cup of espresso 3.50

Admission to most museums free

Admission to the Opéra de Nice 12.00-78.00

Tips for Student Travelers

Students get reduced admission to museums, galleries, and other attractions. Always ask if there is a student discount. There are also substantial savings for students on rail travel, so check with companies such as Rail Europe. STA Travel in the U.S. (www.statravel.com) and the U.K. (www.statravel.co.uk) offers special deals for students on flights, accommodation, and insurance.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call France:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S. and Canada; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 33.

3. Dial the city code and then the number. Most of the numbers in this guide are prefaced with the city code of 04, which must be dialed.

For information on calling Monaco,

To make international calls: To make international calls from France, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202/588-7800.

For directory and operator assistance: Dial 12 for assistance in French; in English, dial 0-800/364-775. For international inquiries, dial 08-36-59-32-12. This will link you with a bilingual (French and English) phone operator. You are allowed to request only two numbers for which you pay a service charge of 3€. However, if you wish to use an operator to call your home country, you dial the toll-free number of tel. 08-00-99-00 plus the following 10 digits of your country code: 08-00-99-00-11 for the U.S. and Canada, and 08-00-99-00-44 for the U.K., or 08-00-99-00-61 for Australia.

Toll-free numbers: For France, numbers beginning with 08 and followed by 00 are toll-free. But be careful. Numbers that begin with 08 followed by 36 carry a surcharge per minute.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

Using your phone or mobile device abroad can be very expensive, and you usually have to pay to receive calls or use the internet. Check with your phone supplier to see if you can buy a data package for overseas use. It's also a good idea to get your phone "unlocked" before you leave for France. This means you can buy a SIM card from one of the three French providers -- Bouygues Télécom (www.bouygestelecom.fr), Orange (www.orange.fr), or SFR (www.sfr.fr) -- and simply insert it into your phone. A SIM card with 5€ call credit costs about 10€. Alternatively, if your phone isn't unlocked, you could buy a cheap mobile phone. To top up your phone credit, buy a Mobicarte from tabacs, supermarkets, and mobile phone outlets. Prices range from 5€ to 100€.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In an age when environmental, ethical, and social concerns are becoming more important, the region of Provence and the Riviera is beginning to embrace sustainability and implement various green initiatives.

There is an excellent public transportation system in the region. The rail network, including high-speed TGV trains (Train à Grande Vitesse, meaning high-speed train) and local TER trains (Transport Express Régional), makes getting around the region quick and easy. There is also a widespread network of buses, which can take you to small towns that would otherwise be inaccessible via train.

Several cities also have modern, user-friendly public transportation systems. In Nice, in addition to offering over 40 bus and tram lines within the city limits, the city's public transportation organization, Lignes d'Azur (www.lignesdazur.com), offers public buses to nearly any destination along the Riviera for a mere 1 euro -- an unbelievable bargain. Marseille has been expanding its metro system and has extended its network of trams and buses. Montpellier also offers a comprehensive tram system, in addition to buses that travel around the city and surrounding area.

Many cities in Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, and the Riviera have set up public bicycle-rental programs, which allow people to rent bikes on a short-term basis, and then return these bikes to various stations around town -- similar to the Vélib' bike scheme in Paris. These public bike-rental programs offer both locals and visitors a fast and inexpensive way to get around the cities; you'll find these bike-rental programs in Avignon, Montpellier, Marseille, Nice, and Perpignan. Alternatively, since many of the cities and towns in these regions are relatively small, many people choose to get around simply by walking.

Many hotels in Provence and the Riviera have undertaken measures to preserve the environment, and those that have are awarded with a green label; look for hotels with the certification of Green Globe (www.greenglobe.com), La Clef Verte (Green Key; www.laclefverte.org), or the European Eco-Label. These labels reward hotels that take a more environmental approach to water, energy, and waste, and raise environmental awareness among their guests. The Hotel Martinez and Carlton in Cannes, the Palais de la Méditerranée in Nice, and the Hotel du Cap Eden-Roc in Antibes have been certified as Green Globe properties for their environmental initiatives, including the use of eco-label cleaning products, locally sourced food in their restaurants, and recycling programs.

France is experiencing a huge growth in the organic farming of everything from vegetables to winemaking. Despite the fact that France is the biggest user of pesticides in Europe, more producers have opted for the organic approach to farming, and more organic markets are spring up all over the region. Look for signs saying BIO (organic) on products and in shops and restaurants.

However, despite all of these advances, France does still lag behind on some environmental issues, such as its heavy reliance on nuclear power and its use of pesticides on most of its farms. Still, Provence and the Riviera have made tremendous strides toward protecting the local environment.

Responsible tourism means leaving a destination in the same condition as you found it. You can do this by not dropping litter and recycling. Support the local economy and culture by shopping in smaller, neighborhood shops, and eating in local, family-run restaurants rather than big chain stores and restaurants. For more information and tips on responsible travel, see www.frommers.com/tips.

Getting There

By Plane

Nice Côte d'Azur (airport code: NCE; www.nice.aeroport.fr) is France’s second airport. It’s served by direct flights from New York and Montreal, as well as up to 30 daily flights from both Paris and the U.K. Dozens of other destinations cover Europe the Middle East. This being France, the airport greets passengers with free Wi-Fi plus a fleet of free bikes and electric share-cars.

Marseille Provence (airport code: MRS; www.mrsairport.com) is midway between Marseille and Aix-en-Provence. Since 2013 it’s been served by direct flights from New York, adding to its scores of daily routes from around France and Europe.

Most airlines charge their lowest fares between November and mid-March. The shoulder season (Oct and mid-March to mid-June) is a bit more expensive, but we think it’s the ideal time to visit France.

By Train

Marseille, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, and Nice are four of France’s busiest rail junctions, with trains departing across France every few minutes. If you are Italy or Spain, our recommendation would be to travel to the South of France by train; and the journey is even a treat if coming from as far as the U.K. or Germany.

Eurostar (www.eurostar.com; 📞 800/387-6782 in the U.S.) trains even run directly from London to Avignon each summer from as little as $179 round-trip; journey time is just under 6 hours. Easier still, trips from London can be booked online on the Eurostar to any major station in southern France, with a short station change in Paris en-route. For the best deals, book as tickets become available exactly three months in advance. Highly recommended is train and accommodation specialist Railbookers (www.railbookers.com; 📞 888/829-3040 in the U.S.). Their specialized team can plan bespoke rail journeys throughout the region.

By Car

The major highway from Paris to the South of France is the A7. It’s called the Autoroute du Soleil, which poetically translates as the “Highway to the Sun.” From Marseille and Aix-en-Provence, drivers may take the A8, La Provençale, eastwards towards Cannes, Nice and Monaco.

When to Go

Anytime is a good time to visit Southern France. Summer (Jul–Aug) is one long salvo of festivals, fairs, and fireworks. In spring (Apr–June) and fall (Sept–Nov) the weather is still gorgeous, and the coastline is warm enough for both swimming and sunbathing. As the Riviera is averages 300 days of sun per year, winter (Dec–Mar) can also be splendid. Furthermore, with hardly a tourist in sight, you’ll be welcomed as an honorary local. Prices of hotels and restaurant menus fall out of season, sometimes dramatically.

Inland it’s a slightly different story. Many museums, stores, and hotels shut up shop entirely from November until Easter. Provence in particular dreads le mistral (an unrelenting wind), which most often blows in the winter for bouts of a few days at a time, but can also last up to 2 weeks. That said, cities like Avignon and Aix-en-Provence are at their most hauntingly beautiful during that chilly period. Cool weather also slathers snow across the ski resorts north of Nice.

Health & Safety

In general, France is viewed as a "safe" destination. You don't need to get shots, most food is safe, and the water is drinkable. It is easy to get a prescription filled in French towns and cities, Provence and the Riviera have some of the best medical facilities in Europe, and finding an English-speaking doctor is generally no problem in most of the top resorts of the Riviera or major cities in Provence such as Avignon.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in France, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Check the following government websites for up-to-date health-related travel advice: Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au), Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca), U.K. (www.nathnac.org), and U.S. (www.cdc.gov/travel).

Safety

France is a generally safe country, although travelers should always be on the lookout for thieves and pickpockets. They frequent tourist attractions such as museums, monuments, restaurants, hotels, beaches, trains, train stations, airports, and subways. Passports should be carried on the body when necessary, and it's safer to wear a bag diagonally across the chest rather than on one shoulder.

Crimes involving vehicles with nonlocal license plates can occur. Car doors should be kept locked and windows closed while traveling in cities to prevent incidents of "snatch and grab" thefts. Similar incidents have also occurred at tollbooths and rest areas. Special caution is advised when entering and exiting the car because that offers opportunity for purse snatchings. There have also been a number of thefts at Nice Airport, particularly at car-rental parking lots where bags have been snatched as drivers have been loading luggage into rental cars. Also, try not to leave valuables in a parked car.

The loss or theft of a passport should be reported immediately to local police and your nearest embassy or consulate, where you can obtain information about passport replacement.

Anti-Semitism has been on the rise in Europe, especially in France, which has registered a significant increase in incidents against Jews. French Jews (not visitors from abroad) have suffered assaults and attacks against synagogues, cemeteries, schools, and other Jewish property. Officially, the government of France welcomes Jewish visitors and promises a vigorous defense of their safety and concerns. The French Government Tourist Office website (www.franceguide.com) has a FranceGuide for the Jewish Traveler in the "Publications" section with more information.

Tips on Accommodations

The French government rates hotels on a one- to five-star system. In 2011, a new rating of "palace" (or palais) rating was given to a small number of luxury hotels, which takes them beyond the five-star rating. Only one is in Provence and the Riviera, the Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat in St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and all hotels will have their "palace" rating reviewed after 5 years. Generally speaking, one-star hotels are budget accommodations; two-star lodgings are good tourist hotels; three stars go to high-quality hotels; and four and five stars are reserved for deluxe accommodations. Travelers will notice that the number of stars often bear little resemblance to the quality of the hotel. A three-star could have just slipped into the category and needs a more polish, while a two-star might be missing a vital ingredient that takes it to the next level, usually something as simple as the lack of an elevator. The French tourism industry is in the process of standardizing all of the criteria, but this is still a work in progress. In some of the lower categories, the rooms might not have private bathrooms; instead, many have a sink and maybe a bidet. Not all private bathrooms have a bathtub/shower combination; ask in advance if it matters to you.

More and more hotels in France are joining Green Globe's worldwide certification label for sustainable tourism. For more information on environmentally friendly hotels in Provence and the Riviera, contact Green Globe (tel. 06-15-09-27-21; www.greenglobe.com). In Cannes, the Hotel Martinez and the InterContinental Carlton hold a Green Globe certification.

Relais & Châteaux

This organization of deluxe hotels began in France in 1954 when a group of hoteliers joined together to set the highest standards for luxurious hotel living and dining. Initially the hotels were along the route of the Paris-Riviera train. These relais de campagne offered travelers an unforgettable gastronomic experience as they made their way south. Not surprisingly, it wasn't long before this route was christened La Route du Bonheur (the road of happiness). Relais & Châteaux establishments are former castles, abbeys, manor houses, and town houses converted into elegant hotels. All have a limited number of rooms, so reservations are imperative. Many of these owner-run establishments have pools, tennis courts, and spa facilities. For information and reservations, call tel. 800/735-2478, or check out the website www.relaischateaux.com.

Logis de France

This collection of mainly two- and three-star hotels is a good bet for those on a budget who want to sample French hospitality and high-quality cooking (www.logishotels.com). Accommodations vary widely, but a Logis de France hotel guarantees a certain level of comfort, and many of the restaurants offer very good regional cuisine for reasonable prices. The distinctive yellow-and-brown logo will show the hotel's rating in the number of fireplaces, from one (quite basic) to three (very good).

Bed-and-Breakfasts

Called chambres d'hôtes in France, these could be one or several bedrooms in anything from a farm or a village home to a wing in a château. Many offer one main meal of the day as well (lunch or dinner), known as table d'hôte, which are usually communal affairs. Although simpler houses in rural locations offer low rates, others can be quite expensive. But the experience is a world away from a night in a chain hotel. In some towns that lack decent hotels, a B&B is the best choice. You can search the directory at www.chambresdhotes.org.

In the United States, a good source for this type of accommodations is the French Experience (www.frenchexperience.com), which also rents furnished houses. Another U.S. agency is Provence West (www.provencewest.com), which has connections with some of the best accommodations in the region. You can also contact France: Homestyle (www.francehomestyle.com), whose upscale repertoire in Provence includes more than 300 properties.

Villas, Houses & Apartments

If you can stay for at least a week (sometimes even less) and don't mind doing your own cooking and cleaning, you might want to rent long-term accommodations. The possibilities are practically endless. To begin with, there are simple gîtes, which are often outbuildings on farms that have been turned into rental accommodation. You can find a list of suitable properties at www.gites-de-france.com. There are companies that hold thousands of rental accommodations on their books, which could be anything from a seaside studio apartment in Collioure to a luxurious villa in St-Tropez.

HomeAway (www.homeaway.co.uk) is a major holiday rental agency with about 75,000 properties in France, almost 30,000 of which are in Provence, the Riviera, and Languedoc-Roussillon. Other U.K.-based companies include French Connections (www.frenchconnections.co.uk), Vintage Travel (www.vintagetravel.co.uk), Interhome (www.interhome.com), and Holiday Lettings (www.holidaylettings.co.uk).

In the United States, At Home Abroad (www.athomeabroadinc.com) specializes in villas on the French Riviera and in the Provençal hill towns. Rentals are usually for 2 weeks. Barclay International Group (www.barclayweb.com), can give you access to about 3,000 apartments and villas throughout Languedoc, Provence, and the Riviera, ranging from modest modern units to those among the most stylish.

Holiday Villages

France, and Provence in particular, has a large number of self-contained holiday villages that offer self-catered apartments in residences with a large range of facilities. They are very popular with French families who want a safe environment for their children, with swimming pools and play areas on-site, for a reasonable weekly rent. Some of the best known operators are Lagrange Holidays (www.lagrange-holidays.co.uk), Pierre & Vacances (www.pv-holidays.com), and Madame Vacances (www.madamevacances.co.uk).

Hotel Chains

Accor Hotels (www.accor-hotels.com) is made up of a wide range of chain hotels within France and around the world. There is a type of hotel to suit all budgets. Formule 1 (www.hotelformule1.com) is the most basic, with purely functional rooms that can sleep four. They are almost always situated in out-of-town shopping areas, and are useful for breaking up a long car journey. The next step up is Etap (www.etaphotel.com), which has a few more frills than a Formule 1 and more often can be found a little closer to the center of town. Ibis (www.ibishotel.com) is the first step out of the budget category but is still an economical choice, as it can be found in central locations and has modern rooms of a decent size. Mercure (www.mercure.com) and Novotel (www.novotel.com) jump another level towards the four-star category, and many have extra facilities such as swimming pools. Pullman (www.pullmanhotels.com) are the deluxe hotels favored by well-to-do business people, while Sofitel hotels (www.sofitel.com) are among the most luxurious to be found.

At the least expensive end, Hostelling International USA, 8401 Colesville Rd., Silver Springs, MD 20910 (tel. 301/495-1240; www.hiusa.org), offers a directory of low-cost accommodations and hostels around the country.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All travelers entering France are required to carry a passport. Visas are not required for U.S., Canadian, U.K., Australian, and New Zealand citizens. To prevent international child abduction, E.U. governments have initiated procedures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. Go to the following agencies to acquire a passport or for information about passports:

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring into France: Customs restrictions for visitors entering France differ for citizens of European Union (E.U.) and non-E.U. countries. Non-E.U. nationals can bring in duty-free either 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of smoking tobacco. This amount is doubled if you live outside Europe. You can also bring in 2 liters of wine and 1 liter of alcohol over 22%, and 2 liters of wine 22% or under. In addition, you can bring in 60cc of perfume and a quarter liter of eau de toilette. Visitors ages 15 and over can bring in other goods totaling 175€; for those under 15, the limit is 90€. Customs officials tend to be lenient about general merchandise as the limits are very low. Citizens of E.U. countries can bring in any amount of goods as long as the goods are intended for their personal use and not for resale.

What You Can Take Home from France:

Australian Citizens -- The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263.

A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

Canadian Citizens -- Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you're allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada from abroad valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package UNSOLICITED GIFT, UNDER C$60 VALUE). All valuables, including those you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras, should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada. Note: The C$750 exemption can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens -- The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens 18 and over can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g), plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty.

Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens -- Citizens of the U.K. returning from an E.U. country such as France go through a Customs exit especially for E.U. travelers. In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, as long as the items are for personal use (this includes gifts) and you have already paid the duty and tax. However, Customs law sets out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your own use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for your own use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer.

For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

U.S. Citizens -- Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You're charged a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases, and any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duty at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States, using cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order; some locations also accept Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipt of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and MP3 players -- with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office, or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a certificate of registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

You cannot bring fresh foodstuffs into the U.S.; canned foods are allowed. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go.") Or, contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many discounts are available for seniors. At any rail station in France, seniors 60 and over (with proof of age) can get a Carte Senior. The pass costs 56€ and is good for a 50% discount on unlimited rail travel throughout the year. The carte also offers reduced prices on some regional bus lines and half-price admission at state-owned museums. Check to see if there are restrictions on certain days.

Air France offers seniors a 10% reduction on its regular nonexcursion tariffs on travel within France. Some restrictions apply. Discounts of around 10% are offered to passengers 62 and over on selected Air France international flights. Be sure to ask for the discount when booking.

Members of AARP (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org) get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age). Most courses last 2 to 4 weeks abroad, and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

France is one of the world's most tolerant countries toward gays and lesbians, and no special laws discriminate against them. "The Gay Riviera" boasts a large gay population, with dozens of gay clubs and restaurants. Gay Provence, 42 rue du Coq, Marseille (tel. 04-91-84-08-96; www.gay-provence.org), is operated by a group of gays and lesbians, each native to Provence, who offer tours to American and European gays and lesbians. Various activities can be preplanned or customized according to interests, and tours range from 1 day to 1 week. Participants are welcomed into the private homes of gay or gay-friendly locals. Attractions include such outdoor excursions as hiking, biking, or horseback riding, or cultural activities such as Mediterranean cooking lessons or meetings with artists and artisans.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses. Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is a gay Australian tour specialist. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas. The Canadian website GayTraveler (http://gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Nearly all modern hotels in the south of France now provide rooms designed for persons with disabilities. However, many hotels that are in historic buildings might not have elevators, special toilet facilities, or ramps for wheelchair access. Always ask before making a reservation. People with limited mobility might find it difficult to navigate some of the steep cobbled lanes of hilltop villages, and wheelchair users might not be able to get around some ancient monuments.

The high-speed TGV trains are wheelchair accessible; older trains have special compartments for wheelchair boarding. Guide dogs ride free. Be aware that some older stations don't have escalators or elevators.

Association des Paralysés de France, 17 bd. Auguste-Blanqui, 75013 Paris (tel. 01-40-78-69-00; www.apf.asso.fr), is a privately funded organization that provides wheelchair-bound individuals with documentation, moral support, and travel ideas. In addition to the central Paris office, it maintains an office in each of the 90 départements of France and can help you find accessible hotels, transportation, sightseeing, house rentals, and (in some cases) companionship for paralyzed or partially paralyzed travelers. It's not, however, a travel agency.

Getting Around

Within most major cities—including Nice, Marseille, and Avignon—public transportation is efficient, comprehensive, and cheap. Distances between each destination are too short to be covered by air, but are the perfect length to zip among by high-speed train. Indeed, no two towns in the region are much further than 3 hours apart by rail. In smaller towns, such as Cannes, Arles, or Antibes, it’s easy to navigate the city center on foot.

By Car

The most charming châteaux and country hotels always seem to lie away from the main cities and train stations. Renting a car is a good way to travel around the Southern French countryside, especially in the Lubéron area, the vineyards north of Avignon, and in rural Provence. Day car-hire is inexpensive, so visitors may want to rent a vehicle just for a day en-route if they wish. After all, driving around the Monaco Grand Prix route sure is fun.

Driving schedules in Europe are largely a matter of conjecture, urgency, and how much sightseeing you do along the way. Driving time from the most westerly town in this book, Arles, to the most easterly, Menton, is just over 2 1/2 hours by car.

Rentals -- To rent a car, you’ll need to present a passport, a driver’s license, and a credit card. You will also have to meet the company’s minimum age requirement; 21 or above at most rental agencies. The biggest agencies have pickup spots all over Southern France, including Budget (www.budget.com; 📞 800/472-3325); Hertz (www.hertz.com; 📞 800/654-3001); and Europcar (www.europcar.com; 📞 877/940-6900 in the U.S. and Canada).

Note: The best deals are always booked online, in advance. Rental companies won’t generally mind if you drive your car into, say, Italy. After all, the border is only a five-minute drive from Menton, the most easterly town covered in this guide.

In France, collision damage waiver (CDW) is usually factored into the overall rate quoted, but you should always verify this before taking a car on the road. At most companies, the CDW provision won’t protect you against theft, so if this is the case, ask about purchasing extra theft protection. Automatic transmission is a luxury in Europe. If you prefer it to stick-shift, you must specifically request it—and you’ll pay extra for it.

Gasoline -- Known in France as essence, gas is expensive for those accustomed to North American prices, although the smaller cars common in Europe use far less fuel. Depending on your car, you’ll need either leaded (avec plomb) or unleaded (sans plomb).

Note: Sometimes you can drive for miles in rural France without encountering a gas station; don’t let your tank get dangerously low.

Driving Rules -- Everyone in the car, in both the front and the back seats, must wear seat belts. Children 10 and under must ride in the back seat.

In France, you drive on the right. Drivers are supposed to yield to the car on their right (priorité a droite), except where signs indicate otherwise, as at traffic circles.

If you violate the speed limit, expect a big fine. Limits are 130kmph (80 mph) on expressways, 110kmph (68 mph) on major national highways, and 90kmph (55 mph) on country roads. In towns, don’t exceed 50kmph (31 mph).

Note: It’s illegal to use a cellphone while you’re driving in France; you will be ticketed if you’re stopped.

Maps -- While most French drivers are happy with Google Maps, traditional motorists opt for the large Michelin maps of the country and regions (www.viamichelin.com) on sale at all gas stations. Big travel-book stores in North America carry these maps as well. GPS navigation devices can be rented at most car-hire stations.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- A breakdown is called une panne in France. Call the police at 📞 17 (if calling from a landline) or 📞 112 (if calling from a mobile phone) anywhere in France to be put in touch with the nearest garage. Most local garages offer towing.

By Train

The world’s fastest trains—known as Train à Grande Vitesse, or TGVs—link all the major cities and resorts in the South of France, allowing you to travel within the region at speed. First class travel by TGV is an experience in itself, with at-seat dining, picture windows, and train interiors courtesy of fashion designer Christian Lacroix. Booked in advance, it’s not much more than second class. SNCF (French National Railroads; www.voyages-sncf.com, or call 📞 36-35 in France) also runs local trains that connect rural areas, as well as along the resort-heavy French Riviera. It also operates trains running into the mountains above Nice, and over into the Italian border.

For information or reservations, go online (www.voyages-sncf.com). You can also visit any local travel agency. If you have a chip credit card and know your PIN, you can use your card to buy your ticket at the easy-to-use billetteries (ticket machines with an English-menu option) in every train station.

Rail passes -- Rail passes as well as individual rail tickets are available from Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com; 📞 800/622-8600 in the U.S.). Options include a 5-day rail pass usable within France for a 1-month period for $322. Eurail (www.eurail.com) offers regional rail passes throughout Europe, including a France-and-Italy combined pass for $540, allowing 6 days of first-class travel within a 2-month period.

By Bicycle

Over the past few years, most cities and towns throughout Provence and the French Riviera have initiated bike-sharing schemes. You can register online or directly at one of the city’s dozens of bike stands; in most cases, you’ll need a credit card and a mobile phone. Average fees range from 1€ for 1 day to 7€ for a week, and entitle you to use any of the city’s hundreds of bikes for up to 30 minutes at a time. When you’re finished, just slot the cycle back into any allocated bike stand around town. Among many others, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, and Nice all offer citywide bike-sharing. Monaco, being the showiest town in the South of France, introduced an all-electric bike-share scheme in 2014.

On Foot

France’s ancient Sentiers de Grande Randonnée (www.grsentiers.org), or “GR” walking routes link many of the country’s prettiest towns. Close to two centuries old and stretching over 112,000 miles (180,000 km), these footpaths ripple through vineyards and along the coastline, crisscrossing picturesque towns and mountain passes en route. Regional favorites include the GR 51, looping above coastal Provence, the GR 52A, in the Mercantour National Park, and the challenging GR 20, a mountainous trail along Corsica’s spine. Keep an eye out for the routes’ red and white way-markings. A new section of the GR network, the GR 653A, connects the towns of Menton and Arles with the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim’s route in Spain.

Visitor Information

Your best source of information before you go is Atout France, the French government tourist office; visit its website at www.franceguide.com. In the United States, call tel. 514/288-1904 to request information. In Canada, call tel. 514/288-2026; in the United Kingdom, tel. 09068/244-123 (60p per min.) or fax 020/7493-6594; in Ireland, tel. 015/60-235-235; and in Australia, tel. 02/9231-5244. There's no representative in New Zealand -- you will have to call the Australian office.

The regions of Languedoc-Roussillon (www.sunfrance.com) and Provence and the Côte d'Azur (www.52coupsdecoeur.com) are divided into separate départements, each of which has its own tourism website. They are an excellent source of information in addition to individual city websites. See each town or city section for more specific information on the local tourist boards.

Calendar of Events

January

Monte Carlo Motor Rally (Le Rallye de Monte Carlo). The world’s most venerable car race. Mid-January. www.acm.mc.

February

Carnival of Nice. Parades, music, fireworks, and “Les Batailles des Fleurs” (Battles of the Flowers) are all part of this celebration. The climax is the burning the Carnival king effigy. Late February to early March. www.nicecarnaval.com.

Fête du Citron, Menton. Two-week celebration of the local lemon industry in France’s sunniest town. Expect mega lemon sculptures and song. www.feteducitron.com.

Fête du Mimosas. Mandelieu-La Napoule. Seven-day party dedicated the region’s yellow mimosa flowers, with parades, street parties, and beauty pageants. www.ot-mandelieu.com.

March

Napoleon’s arrival, Golfe-Juan. Reimagining of Bonaparte’s beachy arrival in the South of France on March 1, 1815. Celebration especially important for the 2015 bicentennial anniversary of his march to Paris. www.vallauris-golfe-juan.fr.

Le Paris-Nice, French Riviera. The nation’s second most important cycle race is a precursor to the Tour de France. Route runs through Provence countryside and finishes on Nice’s promenade des Anglais. Mid-March. www.letour.com.

May

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Gypsy Festival, Camargue. Annual gypsy festival where tens of thousands of faithful walk into the waves in praise of the Black Sarah. Mid-May. www.saintesmaries.com.

Cannes Film Festival (Festival International du Film). Movie madness transforms this Mediterranean town into a media circus. Admission to films and parties is by invitation. Other films play 24 hours a day. Mid-May. www.festival-cannes.com.

Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters, Monaco. Rafael Nadal and Novak Djokovic play this clay court tournament as the Mediterranean shimmers beyond. Mid-May. www.atpworldtour.com.

Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix. The world’s most high-tech cars race through Monaco’s narrow streets in a blizzard of hot metal and ritzy architecture. Late May. www.formula1.com.

Lubéron Jazz Festival. Saxophones, double bases, and guitars take over every municipal space in the village of Apt. Late May. www.luberonjazz.net.

June

Fête de la Mer et des Pêcheurs, Martigues. Local fishing fleets perform boat-to-boat jousting contests. The consumption of unholy amounts of seafood is de rigueur. Late June. www.martigues-tourisme.com.

Fête de la Musique, across region. Nation-wide festival of sound on the longest evening of the year. Expect drummers and DJs on every street corner. June 21.

Nice Ironman Triathlon, Nice. An incredible sight as thousands of swimmers dive into the Mediterranean. Followed by a full marathon. And an Alpine bike ride. Late June. www.ironman.com.

July

Les Chorégies d’Orange, Orange. One of southern France’s most important lyric festivals presents oratorios, operas, and choral works in France’s best-preserved Roman amphitheater. Early July to early August. www.choregies.fr.

Festival de Lacoste. One of Provence’s prettiest villages becomes an open-air theatre for ballet and classical recital. Mid-July. www.festivaldelacoste.com.

Tour de France. The world’s most hotly contested bicycle race sends crews of wind-tunnel-tested athletes along an itinerary that detours deep into the Alps, Provence, and French Riviera. First 3 weeks of July. www.letour.fr.

Festival d’Avignon. This world-class festival has a reputation for exposing new talent to critical scrutiny and acclaim. The focus is usually on avant-garde works in theater, dance, and music. Many of the performances take place in the 14th-century courtyard of the Palais des Pâpes. Last 3 weeks of July. www.festival-avignon.com.

Avignon OFF. Month-long fringe event packed with street theatre, comedy, and music. www.avignonleoff.com.

Bastille Day. Celebrating the birth of modern-day France, the nation’s festivities reach their peak with country-wide street fairs, fireworks, and feasts. July 14.

Les Suds Arles. Seven-day cultural and world music show within the Roman amphitheaters and city walls of ancient Arles. Mid-July. www.suds-arles.com.

Nice Jazz Festival. The most prestigious jazz festival in Europe. Concerts begin in the afternoon and go on until late at night (sometimes all night) in the Jardin Albert 1er, overlooking Nice's promenade des Anglais. Mid-July. www.nicejazzfestival.fr.

Festival d’Aix-en-Provence. A musical event par excellence, with everything from Gregorian chants to operas composed on synthesizers. Recitals are in the medieval cloister of the Cathédrale St-Sauveur. Expect heat, crowds, and loud sounds. July. www.festival-aix.com.

Réncontres d’Arles. The prettiest town in Provence hosts a citywide photography festival. Prepare to be wowed. July to September. www.rencontres-arles.com.

Marseille Ironman Triathlon, Marseille. Ironman returned to Marseille in 2014. See thousands of swimmers line up on the Plages du Prado, before they cycle 40km then run a final 10km. Late July. www.ironman.com.

Jazz à Juan, Juan-les-Pins. Key international jazz, reggae, and blues festival. Take a place on an alfresco stage with the sea and setting sun behind. Late July. www.jazzajuan.fr.

AUGUST

Monte-Carlo International Fireworks Competition, Monaco. You’ve never seen pyrotechnics like it. The skies above Monaco are lit up twice weekly as international teams compete for the biggest bang in the business. August. www.visitmonaco.com

Festival de Musique, Menton. Outdoor seats are set up in every square and churchyard for this most genteel of classical music festivals. First 2 weeks of August. www.festival-musique-menton.fr.

Azurial Opera Festival, Cap-Ferrat. Impossibly cute 4-day opera festival in the rarified confines of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on Cap-Ferrat. Late August. www.azurialopera.com.

September

Les Etoiles de Mougins, Mougins. The French Riviera’s premier live cooking show. Medieval Mougins is taken over by 50 top chefs for an entire weekend. Features cook-offs, interactive displays, and Michelin star standard freebies. Mid-September. www.lesetoilesdemougins.com

Journées du Patrimoine, regional. The region’s grandest buildings open their doors to the public for one weekend only. Just don’t pocket any souvenirs as you peek around. Mid-September. www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr.

October

Les Voiles de St-Tropez. The largest and most glamorous of the French Riviera’s classic sailing regattas. Watch tens of millions of Euros worth of sail compete in the confines of the Bay of St-Tropez. Early October. www.lesvoilesdesaint-tropez.fr.

Fiesta des Suds, Marseille. No-holds-barred urban festival of African, world, and Mediterranean music in Marseille’s rejuvenated docklands. Late October. www.dock-des-suds.org.

November

Nice-Cannes Marathon. What could be the world’s prettiest marathon route runs from Nice’s promenade des Anglais through the Cap d’Antibes and Juan-les-Pins. But taking part is no walk in the park. Early November. www.marathon06.com.

December

Fête de St-Sylvestre (New Year’s Eve), nationwide. In Nice, this holiday is most boisterously celebrated on the promenade des Anglais. Champagne corks fly in every other Southern French town. December 31.

Regions in Brief

Although France’s 547,030 sq. km (211,209 sq. miles) make it slightly smaller than the American state of Texas, no other country has such a diversity of sights and scenery in such a compact area. Even the relatively small regions of Provence and the French Riviera—less than 300km (187 miles) from east to west—range from the Rhône’s fertile Camargue wetlands, across the Lubéron’s rippling vineyards, and on to the south’s shimmering Mediterranean coast. Perhaps even more noteworthy are the historical and contemporary cultural differences that define each territorial area.

Destinations in Provence and the French Riviera are within easy reach of each other. French National Railroads (SNCF) offers fast and comprehensive service to Avignon, Aix, Marseille, Cannes, Nice, and pretty much every town in between. Speedy Trains à Grande Vitesse (TGV) connect most of the region’s bigger cities, while slower Transport Express Régional (TER) chug along quieter tracks, often stopping at every heartbreakingly picturesque town en route.

You can motor along thousands of miles of Southern French roads, including a good number of well-maintained superhighways. But do your best to drive the secondary roads too: Nearly all of the region’s scenic splendors are along these routes.

Despite Provence and the French Riviera’s petite size, it still holds true that if you truly want to get to know this part of France, you’ll probably have a more rewarding trip if you concentrate on exploring two or three areas at a leisurely pace rather than racing around trying to see everything! To help you decide where to spend your time, we’ve summarized the highlights of each region for you.

Provence -- One of France’s most popular destinations stretches from the southern Rhone River to the Italian border. Long frequented by starving artists, la bourgeoisie, and the downright rich and famous, its premier cities are Aix-en-Provence, associated with Cézanne; Arles, famous for bullfighting and Van Gogh; Avignon, the 14th-century capital of Christendom; and Marseille, a port city established by the Phoenicians that today is the melting pot of France. Quieter and more romantic are villages such as St-Rémy-de-Provence, Les Baux, and Gordes. To the east, the Haute Provence region is home to Europe’s “Grand Canyon,” the Gorges du Verdon. To the west, the Camargue is the marshy delta formed by two arms of the Rhône River. Rich in bird life, it’s famous for its grassy flats and such fortified medieval sites as Aigues-Mortes.

The French Riviera (Côte d’Azur) -- The resorts of the fabled Côte d’Azur (Azure Coast) still evoke glamour: Cannes, St-Tropez, Cap d’Antibes, and Juan-les-Pins. July and August are the most buzzing months, while spring and fall are still sunny but way more laid-back. Nice is the biggest city and most convenient base for exploring the area. The Principality of Monaco only occupies about 2 sq. km (3/4 sq. mile) but has enough sights, restaurants, and opulence to go around. Along the coast are some sandy beaches, but many are pebbly. Topless bathing is common, especially in St-Tropez, and some of the restaurants are citadels of conspicuous consumption. Dozens of artists and their patrons have dappled the landscape with world-class galleries and art museums.