In 1946, Art Costa started driving sightseers out to ogle the decrepit "dune shacks," where such transient luminaries as Eugene O'Neill, Jack Kerouac, and Jackson Pollock found their respective muses; in one such hovel, Tennessee Williams cooked up the steamy A Streetcar Named Desire. The park service wanted to raze these eyesores, but luckily, saner heads prevailed: They're now National Historic Landmarks. The tours conducted by Art's son and others, via Chevy Suburban, typically take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours and are filled with wonderful stories of local literati and other characters. Don't forget your camera for the views of this totally unique landscape. Additional tours offered include a sunset clambake dune tour ($89 adults, $63 children) and a barbecue tour ($82 adults, $57 children).