Mariachis play daily from 6pm on Plaza de Santa Inés, Calle 11 Poniente and Calle 3 Sur. They stroll through the crowds that gather at the sidewalk cafes. Another square where you can hear live music is Plaza de los Sapos, Calle 7 Oriente near Calle 6 Sur. In the courtyard of the Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía, Calle 6 Sur 304, a singer/guitarist entertains with popular ballads until 11pm.

Along Avenida Juárez, there are several popular bars and clubs. When the weather is agreeable, one of my favorite places for drinks is the rooftop bar of the NH Puebla hotel at the corner of calles 3 and 5. It offers a great view. Teorema, Reforma 540, near Calle 7 Norte (tel. 222/242-1014), is a good coffee shop and bookstore that features guitarists and folk singers every evening. It's open daily from 9:30am to 2:30pm and 4:30pm to midnight.

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