The seaside Garífuna villages of Travesia and Bajamar are some of the most lively and traditional in the country. Bajamar is home to the most important Garífuna festival in Honduras, which is held between July 9 and 24 -- July 16 is the peak of festivities. During this period, Garífuna from across the country visit, as do many others, for the dance and drum performances and heavy eating and drinking. During the rest of the year, the towns are quiet. In Travesia, the beaches tend to see a few visitors who drive up and rent small thatched champas for a few lempira or come to dine in some of the beachfront seafood restaurants.

Fronteras del Caribe (tel. 504/2665-5001; L300), a hotel and restaurant, is the best spot both to eat and stay. It's right on the beach, surrounded by coconut trees, at the entrance to Travesia. All rooms are clean and have private bathrooms and ceiling fans. It's actually far better than anywhere in the center of Cortés.

The road there runs east of the center, though it is quite bumpy, and after rains, huge puddles can prevent passage to all but the most powerful of cars. A taxi ride to Travesia will cost about L80 to L100. Infrequent buses depart from Calle 5a este and Avenidas 4a a few times a day.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.