Getting There & Departing

By Plane -- International carriers serving Puerto Vallarta include Alaska Airlines (tel. 800/252-7522 in the U.S., or 01-800/252-7522 in Mexico), American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S., or 01-800/904-6000 in Mexico), US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322 in the U.S., or 01-800/428-4322 in Mexico), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273 in the U.S., or 01-800/900-5000 in Mexico), Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S., or 01-800/123-4710 in Mexico), Frontier (tel. 800/432-1359 in the U.S.), and United (tel. 800/538-2929 in the U.S., or 01-800/003-0777 in Mexico).

Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6639 in the U.S., or 01-800/021-4000 in Mexico) flies from Los Angeles, San Diego, Aguascalientes, Guadalajara, La Paz, León, Mexico City, Morelia, and Tijuana.

Major car-rental agencies at the airport, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar/Thrifty, and National, are open after flight arrivals. After registering, they will send a shuttle to take you to the nearby car-rental lots. Daily rates start at about $40.

By Car -- The coastal Hwy. 200 is the only choice from Mazatlán (6 hr. north) or Manzanillo (3 1/2-4 hr. south). Hwy. 15 from Guadalajara to Tepic takes 6 hours; to save as much as 2 hours, take Hwy. 15A from Chapalilla to Compostela, bypassing Tepic, and then continue south on Hwy. 200 to Puerto Vallarta. Expect a number of official checkpoints on these highways.

By Bus -- The bus station, Central Camionera de Puerto Vallarta, is just north of the airport, approximately 11km (6 3/4 miles) from downtown. It offers overnight guarded parking and baggage storage. Most major first-class bus lines operate from here, including Estrella Blanca, ETN, TAP, Pacifico, Futura, Turistar, Elite, and Primera Plus, with transportation to points throughout Mexico, including Mazatlán (390 pesos), Manzanillo (230 pesos), Guadalajara (350 pesos), Barra de Navidad (185 pesos), and Mexico City (900 pesos). Taxis into town cost approximately $10 and are readily available; public buses operate from 7am to 11pm and regularly stop in front of the arrivals hall.

Orientation

Arriving by Plane -- The airport is close to the north end of town near the Marina Vallarta, about 10km (6 1/4 miles) from downtown. Transportes Terrestres Puerto Vallarta minivans and Aeromovil taxis make the trip. They use a zone pricing system, with fares clearly posted at the ticket booths. Fares start at $16 for a ride to Marina Vallarta and go up to $28 for the south shore hotels. Federally licensed airport taxis exclusively provide transportation from the airport, and their fares are more than three times as high as city (yellow) taxi fares. A trip to downtown Puerto Vallarta costs between 200 and 250 pesos, whereas a return trip using a city taxi costs only 120 pesos. Only airport cabs may pick up passengers leaving the airport. You can also buy a ticket for a colectivo (a shuttle van that goes every 30 min.) at the official taxi stand which, at only 120 pesos to downtown, is the cheapest option.

Vistor Information -- Prior to arrival, a useful source of information and publicity is the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board (tel. 888/384-6822 in the U.S., or 322/224-1175 in Mexico; www.visitpuertovallarta.com). The office is located in the Hotel Canto del Sol in the Zona Comercial Las Glorias. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 7pm. If you have questions after you arrive, visit the downtown Dirección de Turismo (municipal tourism office) in the corner of the white City Hall building at Juárez and Independencia (tel. 322/226-8080, ext. 230), just off the main square. In addition to offering a listing of current events and promotional brochures, the employees can assist with specific questions -- there's usually an English speaker on staff. It's open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm, Sunday from 10am to 6pm.

In Marina Vallarta, the State Tourism Office, Plaza Marina L 144, 2nd Floor (tel. 322/221-2676, -2677, -2678), also offers brochures and can assist with specific questions about Puerto Vallarta and other points in the state of Jalisco, including Guadalajara, Costa Alegre, the town of Tequila, and the program that promotes stays in authentic rural haciendas. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

City Layout -- The seaside promenade, the malecón, is a common reference point for giving directions. It's next to Paseo Díaz Ordaz and runs north-south through the central downtown area. From the waterfront, the town stretches back into the hills a half-dozen blocks. The areas bordering the Río Cuale are the oldest parts of town -- the original Puerto Vallarta. The area immediately south of the river, called Olas Altas after its main street (and sometimes Los Muertos after the beach of the same name), is home to a growing selection of sidewalk cafes, fine restaurants, espresso bars, and hip nightclubs. In the center of town, nearly everything is within walking distance both north and south of the river. Bridges on Insurgentes (northbound traffic) and Ignacio Vallarta (southbound traffic) link the two sections of downtown.

Area Layout

Beyond downtown, Puerto Vallarta has grown along the beach to the north and south. Linking downtown to the airport is Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio, home of many high-rise hotels (in an area called the Zona Hotelera, or Hotel Zone), plus several shopping centers with a variety of dining options.

Marina Vallarta, a resort city within a city, lies at the northern edge of the Hotel Zone, just a few minutes from the airport. It boasts excellent hotels, condominiums, and homes; a huge marina with 450 yacht slips; a golf course; restaurants and bars; and several shopping plazas. Because it was originally a swamp, the beaches are somewhat less desirable, with darker sand and seasonal inflows of cobblestones. The Marina Vallarta peninsula faces the bay and looks south to the town of Puerto Vallarta.

Nuevo Vallarta is a planned resort north of the airport, across the Ameca River in the state of Nayarit (about 13km/8 miles north of downtown). It houses a number of all-inclusive hotels, condominiums, and timeshares, and a yacht marina, with a selection of restaurants and shopping. Most hotels here cater to families, with some of the finest beaches in the bay, but guests usually travel into Puerto Vallarta (about $25 a cab ride) for anything other than poolside or beach action. Regularly scheduled public bus service costs about $2 and runs until 10pm.

Bucerías, a small beachside village of cobblestone streets, villas, excellent seafood restaurants, and just a few art galleries and small hotels, sits farther north along Banderas Bay, 30km (19 miles) beyond the airport. Past Bucerías, following the curved coastline of Banderas Bay, you'll find La Cruz de Huanaxcle, a new mega marina project, but still an authentic, colorful seaside town. Continue to the end of the road and you'll reach Punta Mita. Once a rustic fishing village, it has been artfully developed as an exclusive luxury destination. Although the fishing village still exists, it has been all but eclipsed by the large gated community of Punta Mita that houses private villas, a few world-class resorts, and two championship golf courses. The site of an ancient celestial observatory, it is an exquisite setting, with white-sand beaches and clear waters. The northern shore of Banderas Bay is emerging as the area's most exclusive address for luxury villas and accommodations, and most of greater Puerto Vallarta's growth is in this direction.

The southern coastal highway stretches south from downtown Vallarta in the direction of Manzanillo and the Costa Alegre. Immediately south of town lies the exclusive residential and rental district of Conchas Chinas. Ten kilometers (6 1/4 miles) south, on Playa Mismaloya (where Night of the Iguana was filmed), lies the Barceló La Jolla de Mismaloya resort. There's no road on the southern shoreline of Banderas Bay, but three small coastal villages are popular attractions for visitors to Puerto Vallarta: Las Animas, Quimixto, and Yelapa, all accessible only by boat. The tiny, pristine cove of Caletas, site of John Huston's former home, is a popular day- or nighttime excursion. Dreams Resort also lies south of town at Playa Las Estacas.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The telephone area code is 322.

Climate -- It's sunny and warm all year, with tropical temperatures; however, evenings and early mornings in the winter can turn quite cool. Summers are very hot, with an increase in humidity during the rainy season, between May and October. Rains come almost every afternoon in June and July, and are usually brief but strong -- just enough to cool off the air for evening activities. In September, heat and humidity are least comfortable and rains heaviest.

Currency Exchange -- Banks are found throughout downtown and in the other prime shopping areas. Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm, with shorter hours on Saturday. ATMs are common throughout Vallarta, including the central plaza downtown. They are becoming the most favorable way to exchange currency, with bank rates plus 24-hour convenience. Casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), located throughout town, offer longer hours than the banks, with only slightly lower exchange rates. Most hotels also change money at varying rates.

Drugstores -- CMQ Farmacia, Basilio Badillo 365 (tel. 322/222-1330), is open 24 hours and makes free deliveries to hotels between 11am and 10pm with a minimum purchase of $20. Farmacias Guadalajara, Emiliano Zapata 232 (tel. 322/224-1811), is also open 24 hours.

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Consular Agency office (tel. 322/222-0069; http://guadalajara.usconsulate.gov) is located in Nuevo Vallarta at Paseo de los Cocoteros 85, in the Paradise Plaza, Local L-7, on the second floor. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm. The Canadian Consulate (tel. 322/293-0099, -0098; 24-hr. emergency line 01-800/706-2900 in Mexico) is located in Plaza Las Glorias, Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio 1951, Edificio Obelisco, Loc. 108 (you'll see the Canadian flag hanging from the balcony). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm.

Emergencies -- Police emergency, tel. 060 or 066; local police, tel. 322/290-0513, -0512; intensive care ambulance, Cruz Roja (Red Cross), tel. 322/222-1533 and San Javier Marina Hospital Ambulance Service (tel. 322/226-1010, ext. 340).

Hospitals -- The following offer U.S.-standards service and are available 24 hours: Ameri-Med Urgent Care, Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio at Plaza Neptuno, Loc. D-1, Marina Vallarta (tel. 322/226-2080; www.amerimed.com.mx); San Javier Marina Hospital, Av. Francisco Medina Ascencio 2760, Zona Hotelera (tel. 322/226-1010); and Cornerstone Hospital, Av. los Tules 136 (behind Plaza Caracol; tel. 322/226-3700).

Internet Access -- Most Vallarta hotels have Wi-Fi, and the resorts typically offer business centers. You can also get access at PV Cafe (tel. 322/223-3308), located in the old town at Olas Altas 246. It's open daily from 8am to midnight and charges 35 pesos per hour for computer use. Next door, Café Vayan (tel. 322/222-0092), at Olas Altas 350, serves tasty breakfasts and snacks with free Wi-Fi. It's open 8am to 11pm.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Vallarta Today, a weekly English-language newspaper (tel. 322/225-3323; www.vallartatoday.com), is a good source for dining, cultural events, retirement information, real estate, and healthy living in Vallarta. The bilingual quarterly city magazine Vallarta Lifestyles (tel. 322/221-0106; www.virtualvallarta.com) is also very popular. Both are for sale at area newsstands and hotel gift shops. The weekly English-language Vallarta Tribune (www.vallartatribune.com) is distributed free throughout town and offers an objective local viewpoint. PV Mirror (www.pvmirror.com) is another English-language city paper and online site that offers local news and visitor information.

Post Office -- The correo is at Colombia Street, behind Hidalgo Park, and is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 1pm.

Safety -- Puerto Vallarta enjoys a very low crime rate. Public transportation is safe to use, and Tourist Police (dressed in navy blue and white uniforms) are available to answer questions, give directions, and offer assistance. Most encounters with the police are linked to using or purchasing drugs -- so don't. Note: The tourist police sometimes conduct random personal searches for drugs. If this happens, you are within your rights to request the name of the officer. Report any unusual incidents to the local consular office.

Getting Around

By Taxi

Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. Most trips from downtown to the northern Hotel Zone and Marina Vallarta cost 65 to 80 pesos; to or from Marina Vallarta to Mismaloya Beach (to the south) costs 195 pesos. Rates are charged by zone and are generally posted in hotel lobbies. Taxis can also be hired by the hour or day for longer trips. Rates run about 200 pesos per hour, with full-day discounts available -- consider this an alternative to renting a car.

By Car

Rental cars are readily available at the airport, through travel agencies, and through the most popular U.S. car-rental services, but unless you're planning a distant side trip, don't bother. Car rentals are relatively expensive, especially because of insurance rates, and parking around town can be very challenging, unless you opt for one of the two new parking garages constructed on either end of the malecón zone (at Park Hidalgo to the north, and adjacent to the northern border of the Cuale River to the south). If you see a sign for a cheap car or jeep rental, be aware that these are lures to get folks to attend timeshare presentations. Unless you are interested in a timeshare, stopping to inquire will be a (possibly annoying) waste of your time.

By Bus

City buses, easy to navigate and inexpensive, will serve just about all your transportation needs. They run from the airport through the Hotel Zone along Morelos Street (1 block inland from the malecón), across the Río Cuale, and inland on Vallarta, looping back through the downtown hotel and restaurant districts on Insurgentes and several other downtown streets. To get to the northern hotel strip from old Puerto Vallarta, take the ZONA HOTELES, IXTAPA, or LAS JUNTAS bus. These buses may also post the names of hotels they pass, such as Krystal, Sheraton, and others. Buses marked MARINA VALLARTA travel inside this area, stopping at the major hotels there.

Other buses operate every 10 to 15 minutes south to either Mismaloya Beach or Boca de Tomatlán (a sign in the front window indicates the destination) from Constitución and Basilio Badillo, a few blocks south of the river. Buses run generally from 6am to 11pm, and it's rare to wait more than a few minutes for one. The fare is about 7 pesos. You do not have to have exact change; the driver will make change.

By Boat

The muelle (cruise-ship pier), also called Terminal Marítima, is where excursion boats to Yelapa, Las Animas, Quimixto, and the Marietas Islands depart. It's north of town near the airport, an inexpensive taxi or bus ride from town. Just take any bus marked IXTAPA, LAS JUNTAS, PITILLAL, or AURORA and tell the driver to let you off at the Terminal Marítima. Note: Oddly enough, you must pay a nominal federal tax to gain access to the pier -- and your departing excursion boat.

Water taxis to Yelapa, Las Animas, and Quimixto leave multiple times per day starting at 10am and continuing until 6pm from the pier at Los Muertos Beach (south of downtown), on Rodolfo Rodríguez next to the Hotel Marsol. A round-trip ticket to Yelapa (the farthest point, which takes about 45 min. each way) costs 250 pesos. The latest return time is usually 4:45pm, but confirm the pickup time with your water taxi captain. Other water taxis to Yelapa depart from Boca de Tomatlán, about 30 minutes south of town by public bus. These can be a better option if you want more flexible departure and return times from the southern beaches. Generally, they leave on the hour for the southern shore destinations, or more frequently if there is traffic. Prices run about $15 round-trip, with rates clearly posted on a sign on the beach. A private water taxi costs about $35 per hour with a 4-hour minimum, allowing you to come and go on your own time. They'll take up to eight people for that price, so often people band together at the beach to hire one. There's also water taxi service from Los Muertos Beach to Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta for $12 each way.

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