Ensenada is a tiny settlement at the base of Volcán Osorno. Its proximity to Petrohué and Lago Todos los Santos makes it a convenient point for lodging if you plan to spend a lot of time around the Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. There is no town to speak of here, just a few vacation rentals, hotels, and a couple of shops. About 4km (2 1/2 miles) outside Puerto Varas on the way to Ensenada is a Chilean rodeo medialuna (half-moon), where events are held during February and on Independence days, September 18 and 19. Check with the visitor's office if you are here during that time for this not-to-miss event that provides an in-depth look into Chilean rural culture.
Getting There -- If you have your own vehicle, take the coastal road east out of Puerto Varas and continue for 46km (29 miles) until you reach Ensenada. In Puerto Varas, you'll find minibuses at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martínez that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos los Santos every day at 9:15 and 11am, and 2 and 4pm. Andina del Sud, Del Salvador 72 (tel. 65/232811; www.andinadelsud.com), has daily trips to this area as well.
Where to Stay -- There are many cabañas on the shore; the Cabañas Bahía Celeste (tel. 9/873-6568; www.bahiaceleste.cl) stand out. These self-service units have lake views, living areas, and kitchens for travelers seeking a little more freedom (although there are a few restaurants here if you would like to dine out at night). The cabañas are attractive stone-and-wood units on the lakeshore for two, four, or six guests. There is also maid service, and each cabaña comes with a wooden deck. Prices are $100 (£67) for a two-person cabin, $120 (£80) for a four-person cabin, and $140 (£93) for a six-person cabin.
As is true with the majority of hotels in rural settings (ecolodges, for example), the hotels in this area do not have TVs, though they have added Wi-Fi.