Chilly, drab Puno isn't a place for particularly sophisticated dining. It's better suited for pizzas from wood-fired ovens and simple, straightforward Peruvian cooking. On those scores, it succeeds. Besides, at this altitude, it's not a great idea to overindulge in eating or drinking. Most of Puno's more attractive restaurants, popular with gringos, are located just off the pedestrian-only main drag, Jirón Lima. In addition to those listed below, check out the two restaurants at Hotel Colón Inn and, especially for a light and inexpensive lunch, the attractive cafe Casa del Corregidor, Jr. Deustua 576 (tel. 051/351-921), which serves good salads and sandwiches and has a nice, quiet courtyard.

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