Planning a trip to Quebec City
The province of Québec is immense: It’s physically the largest province in the second-largest country in the world (after Russia); covers an area more than three times the size of France; and stretches from the northern borders of New York, Vermont, and New Hampshire up almost to the Arctic Circle. That said, most of the region’s population lives in the stretch just immediately north of the U.S. border.
Québec’s major cities and towns, including Montréal and Québec City, are in this band of land along the U.S., with the greater Montréal metropolitan area home to nearly half of the province’s population. Québec City lies just 263km (163 miles) northeast of Montréal, commanding a stunning location on the rim of a promontory overlooking the St. Lawrence River, which is at its narrowest here. Most of the province’s developed resort and scenic areas lie within a 3-hour drive of either city.
Jump to:
- Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism
- Staying Connected
- Entry Requirements & Customs
- Neighborhoods in Brief
- When to Go
- Tips for Travelers with Disabilities
- Special-Interest Vacations
- Fast Facts
- Money
- Tips for Families
- Health & Safety
- Calendar of Events
- Orientation
- Tips for Women Travelers
- Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers
- Getting There
- Visitor Information
- Tips for Senior Travelers
Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism
Montréal walks the walk when it comes to green living -- or, more accurately, it bikes the bike. Its BIXI system, a self-service bicycle rental program that debuted in the spring of 2009, began picking up awards even before a single bike hit the streets, including a prestigious Edison Best New Products Award for best product of 2009 in the Energy & Sustainability category.
That was high praise for a service that had yet to satisfy even one customer. But since its launch, BIXI (which is an abbreviation of the words bicyclette and taxi) has proven popular. Fees and details are listed at www.bixi.com/home or call tel. 877/820-2453 or 514/789-BIXI (2494). As with programs in Berlin, Paris, and Barcelona, BIXI users pay a small fee to pick up bikes from designated bike stands and drop them off at any other stand. (Helmets are not included.) Modular bike-rack stations are Web-enabled and solar-powered, and are open spring, summer, and fall (Apr-Nov). At the beginning of the 2010 biking season, BIXI had 5,000 bikes on the road and 400 stations in Montréal's central boroughs. Last season, over three million trips were made.
BIXI is most economical for short trips (that's what it's designed for), so visitors who want a bike for a full day or longer will find it cheaper to rent from a shop.
Montréal does make it easy to bike. There is a huge network of bicycle paths throughout the city, with whole sections of roads turned into bike lanes during the warm months.
These are walking cities, too. In the warm months, Montréal closes off large sections of main streets for pedestrian-only traffic, including rue Ste-Catherine in the Village and, for special events, rue St-Paul in Vieux-Montréal and rue St-Laurent in the Plateau. In 2009, the Plateau neighborhood unveiled a 15-year plan to create more pedestrian-only streets, wider sidewalks, and a tramway line on avenue du Parc, which runs north-south through the eastern side of Parc du Mont-Royal. It's part of a grander effort to reduce traffic and encourage public transport and strolling.
The Hotel Association of Canada (HAC) oversees the Green Key Eco-Rating Program (in French, Clé Verte), which awards a rating of one to five green keys to hotels that minimize waste and reduce their ecological footprint. The voluntary, self-administered audit assesses five areas within hotel management, including housekeeping and food services. Recipients often display a Green Key/Clé Verte plaque in a prominent location alongside other commendations. While HAC does not currently verify the audits on a national scale, the Corporation de l'industrie touristique du Québec (www.citq.info) does so within the province of Québec. To read a description of each award tier and to locate Green Key hotels, visit www.greenkeyglobal.com.
Restaurants throughout the region tout locally sourced food on their menus, with much of the region's food grown, raised, or caught within 161km (100 miles). At the high-end Aix Cuisine du Terroir in Montréal, for instance, terroir refers to soil and the restaurant's allegiance to products grown in the immediate region. You can also find "biodynamic," or organic, wines at many restaurants.
Bring carry bags when you go shopping: BYOB took on a new meaning -- Bring Your Own Bag -- in early 2009, when the province's Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ) liquor stores stopped using single-use plastic and paper bags. "It's a green action," said a spokesperson. "It's really a big statement for sustainable development." The initiative was easy to push through at the wine and hard-liquor stores because the province has a monopoly on them. The hope is that, by setting the bar high in SAQ stores, other retailers will follow suit. Reusable bags are sold at SAQ stores for C75¢ to C$4.
In addition to the resources listed above, visit www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.
Staying Connected
Telephones
The Canadian telephone system, operated by Bell Canada, closely resembles the U.S. model. All operators speak English and French, and they respond in the appropriate language as soon as callers speak to them. In Canada, dial tel. 0 to reach an operator. When making a local call within the province of Québec, you must dial the area code before the seven-digit number.
Phone numbers that begin with 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. That means they're free to call within Canada and from the U.S. You need to dial 1 first.
Remember that both local and long-distance calls usually cost more from hotels -- sometimes a lot more, so check before dialing. Some hotels charge for all calls, including toll-free ones.
To call the province of Québec from the U.S.: Simply dial 1, then the three-digit area code, then the seven-digit number. Example: To call the Infotouriste Centre in Montréal, dial 1-514-873-2015.
To call Québec from the U.K./Ireland/Australia/New Zealand: Dial the international access code 00 (from Australia, 0011), then the Canadian country code 1, then the area code, and then the seven-digit number. Example: To call the Infotouriste Centre in Montréal, dial 00-1-514-873-2015.
To call the U.S. from Québec: Simply dial 1, then the three-digit area code and seven-digit number. Example: To call the U.S. Passport Agency from the province of Québec, dial 1-202-647-0518.
To call the U.K./Ireland/Australia/New Zealand from Québec: Dial 011, then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the number.
A local call at a pay phone in the province of Québec costs C50¢. Directory information calls (dial tel. 411) are free of charge from pay phones.
For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.
Mobile Phones
Cellphone service is good in Québec cities and sometimes spotty in areas beyond city borders. Cellphone service is widely available throughout the regions mentioned in this guide.
Visitors from the U.S. should be able to get roaming service that allows them to use their cellphones in Canada. Some wireless companies let customers adjust their plans to get cheaper rates while traveling. Sprint, for instance, has a "Canadian roaming" option for US$3 per month that reduces the per-minute rate. Ask your provider for options. Europeans and most Australians are on the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) network with removable plastic SIM cards in their phones. Call your wireless provider for information about traveling. You may be able to purchase pay-as-you-go SIM cards in Canada with local providers such as Rogers (www.rogers.com). American travelers may find that their SIM card is locked by their carrier, but consumers are legally allowed to unlock their phones, although it takes some ingenuity to do so. If you go this route, plan enough time to request an approval code from your carrier.
Cellphone rentals are not common in Canada, so if you end up traveling without a phone or with a phone that doesn't get reception, prepaid phone services are a good option. With OneSuite.com (tel. 866/417-8483; www.onesuite.com), for instance, you prepay an online account for as little as US$10. You can then dial a toll-free or local access number from a hotel phone, enter your PIN, and then dial the number you're calling. Calls from Canada to mainland U.S. cost just US2.5¢ to US3.5¢ per minute. Some hotels charge for local and even toll-free calls, so check before dialing.
Cheaper still are phone calls conducted over the Web. Skype (www.skype.com) allows you to make international calls from your laptop or a mobile app on your smartphone. Calls to people who also have the program on their computers are free. You can call people who don't have the service, although modest fees apply.
Internet & Wi-Fi
Most hotels and auberges, as well as many cafes, now offer Wi-Fi. Some hotels still offer high-speed Internet access through cable connections. Except at the larger hotels, Wi-Fi usually is free. For travelers in Montréal, Ile Sans Fil (www.ilesansfil.org) lists free Wi-Fi spots in the city. The listing is available as a free iPhone app, too. For travelers in Québec City, ZAP Québec (www.zapquebec.org) lists free Wi-Fi spots.
Most hotels maintain business centers with computers for use by guests or outsiders, or at least have one computer available for guest use. Again, except at the larger hotels, this access often is free. Cybercafes are not common. In Vieux-Montréal, Café-Bistro Van Houtte, 165 rue St-Paul ouest (tel. 514/288-9387), has a bank of computers and prepaid Internet access cards for C$5 per hour. In Québec City, the Centre Infotouriste de Québec, 12 rue Ste-Anne (tel. 877/266-5687; www.bonjourquebec.com), has a bank of computers for visitor use. The cost is C$2.50 for 20 minutes.
Entry Requirements & Customs
Passports
For country-specific passport information, contact the following agencies:
For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.
Visas
For citizens of many countries, including the U.S., U.K., Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, only a passport is required to visit Canada for up to 90 days; no visas or proof of vaccinations are necessary. For the most up-to-date list of visitor visa exemptions, visit Citizenship and Immigration Canada at www.cic.gc.ca.
Customs
International visitors can expect at least a probing question or two at the border or airport. Normal baggage and personal possessions should be no problem, but plants, animals, and weapons are among the items that may be prohibited or require additional documents before they're allowed in. For specific information about Canadian rules, check with the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 506/636-5064 from outside the country or 800/461-9999 within Canada; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Search for "bsf5082" to get a full list of visitor information.
Tobacco and alcoholic beverages face strict import restrictions: Individuals 18 years or older are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 200 grams of tobacco; and only one of the following amounts of alcohol: 1.14 liters of liquor, 1.5 liters of wine, or 24 cans or bottles of beer. Additional amounts face hefty taxes. Possession of a car radar detector is prohibited, whether or not it is connected. Police officers can confiscate it and fines may run as high as C$1,000. A car driven into Canada can stay for the duration allowed the visitor, which is up to 6 months unless the visitor has arranged permission for a longer stay. Visitors can temporarily bring recreational vehicles, such as snowmobiles, boats, and trailers, as well as outboard motors, for personal use. If you do not declare goods or falsely declare them, they can be seized along with the vehicle in which you brought them.
For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:
U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).
U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www.hmrc.gov.uk).
Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Avenue, Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263, or 612/6275-6666 from outside Australia; www.customs.gov.au).
New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).
If you're traveling with expensive items, such as laptops or musical equipment, consider registering them before you leave your country to avoid challenges at the border on your return.
Medical Requirements
Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Canada.
Neighborhoods in Brief
Haute-Ville
Old Québec's Upper Town, surrounded by thick ramparts, occupies the crest of Cap Diamant and overlooks the Fleuve St-Laurent (St. Lawrence River). It includes many of the sites for which the city is famous, among them the Château Frontenac and the Basilica of Notre-Dame. At a still-higher elevation, to the south of the Château and along the river, is the Citadelle, a partially star-shaped fortress built by the French in the 18th century and augmented often by the English (after their 1759 capture of the city) well into the 19th century.
With most buildings at least 100 years old and made of granite in similar styles, Haute-Ville is visually harmonious, with few jarring modern intrusions. When they added a new wing to the Château Frontenac, for instance, they modeled it after the original -- standing policy here.
Terrasse Dufferin is a pedestrian promenade atop the cliffs that attracts crowds in all seasons for its magnificent views of the river and its water traffic, which includes ferries gliding back and forth, cruise ships, and Great Lakes freighters putting in at the harbor below.
Basse-Ville & Vieux-Port
Old Québec's Lower Town encompasses Vieux-Port, the old port district; the impressive Museum of Civilization, a highlight of any visit; Place Royale, perhaps the most attractive of the city's many small squares; and the pedestrian-only rue du Petit-Champlain, which is undeniably touristy, but not unpleasantly so, and has many agreeable cafes and shops. Visitors travel between Lower and Upper towns by the cliff-side elevator (funiculaire) at the north end of rue du Petit-Champlain, or by the adjacent stairway.
Parliament Hill, including Montcalm
Once you pass through the walls at St-Louis Gate, you're still in Haute-Ville (Upper Town), but no longer in Vieux-Québec. Rue St-Louis becomes Grande-Allée, a wide boulevard that passes the stately Parliament building and runs parallel to the broad expanse of the Plains of Abraham, where one of the most important battles in the history of North America took place between the French and the British for control of the city. This is also where the lively Carnaval de Québec is held each winter. Two blocks after Parliament, Grande-Allée becomes lined on both sides with terraced restaurants and cafes. The city's large modern hotels are in this area, too, and the Musée National des Beaux-Arts is a pleasant 20-minute walk up the Allée from the Parliament. Here, the neighborhood becomes more residential and flows into the Montcalm district.
Faubourg St-Jean
This area is the continuation of rue St-Jean after you exit the walled city and go past Place d'Youville. It is definitely a route less travelled by tourists -- quel dommage -- because this vibrant area, which is packed with shops, bars, and restaurants, is where locals work, live, and play.
St-Roch
Northwest of Parliament Hill and enough of a distance from Vieux-Québec to warrant a cab ride, this newly revitalized neighborhood has some of the city's trendiest restaurants and bars. Along the main strolling street, rue St-Joseph est, sidewalks have been widened, new benches added, and artists hired to renovate the interiors and exteriors of industrial buildings. It has all brought a youthful pop and an influx of new technology and media companies to the neighborhood. Information about the neighborhood is online at www.quartiersaintroch.com.
Much of St-Roch, including what's referred to as Québec's "downtown" shopping district, remains nondescript and a little grubby. But rue St-Joseph, radiating both directions from rue du Parvis (a nice little street for nightlife), is home to an ever-growing number of top-notch restaurants and cute boutiques. Note: On older maps, rue du Parvis was called rue de l'Église.
When to Go
High season in the province of Québec is June 24 (Jean-Baptiste Day) through early September (Labour Day). In Québec City, the period from Christmas to New Year's and February weekends during the big winter Carnaval are busy, too. Just north of Montréal, the Laurentian Mountains do big ski business in the cold months. Hotels are most likely to be full and charge their highest rates in these periods.
Low season is during March and April, when few events are scheduled and winter sports start to be iffy. The late-fall months of October and November are also slow due to their all-but-empty social calendars.
Weather
Temperatures are usually a few degrees lower in Québec City than in Montréal. Spring, short but sweet, arrives around the middle of May. Summer (mid-June through mid-Sept) tends to be humid in Montréal, Québec City, and other communities along the St. Lawrence River, and drier at the inland resorts of the Laurentides and the Cantons-de-l'Est. Intense, but usually brief, heat waves mark July and early August, but temperatures rarely remain oppressive in the evenings.
Autumn (Sept-Oct) is as short and changeable as spring, with warm days and cool or chilly nights. It's during this season that Canadian maples blaze with color.
Winter brings dependable snows for skiing in the Laurentides, Cantons-de-l'Est, and, north of Québec City, Charlevoix. Snow and slush are present from November to March. For many, Montréal's underground city is a climate-controlled blessing during this time.
For the current Montréal weather forecast, call tel. 514/283-3010 or check www.weatheroffice.gc.ca.
Holidays
Canada's important public holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1); Good Friday and Easter Monday (Mar or Apr); Victoria Day (the Mon preceding May 25); St-Jean-Baptiste Day, Québec's "national" day (June 24); Canada Day (July 1); Labour Day (first Mon in Sept); Canadian Thanksgiving Day (second Mon in Oct); and Christmas (Dec 25).
Tips for Travelers with Disabilities
Québec regulations regarding wheelchair accessibility are similar to those in the U.S. and the rest of Canada, including requirements for curb cuts, entrance ramps, designated parking spaces, and specially equipped bathrooms. While the more modern parts of the cities are fully wheelchair accessible, access to the restaurants and inns housed in 18th- and 19th-century buildings, especially in Québec City, is often difficult or impossible.
Advice is provided in the French-language guide Le Québec Accessible, which lists more than 1,000 hotels, restaurants, theaters, and museums. It costs C$20 and is available from Kéroul (tel. 514/252-3104; www.keroul.qc.ca). Kéroul also publishes an English-language brochure called The Accessible Road, which has information about everything from how to get a handicapped parking sticker to which top attractions are most accessible. It's available as a free download at www.keroul.qc.ca. Québec's provincial tourism organization maintains an online, searchable database of accessible establishments and tourist sites at www.bonjourquebec.com. Also look for the Tourist and Leisure Companion Sticker (T.L.C.S.) at tourist sites. It designates that companions of travelers with disabilities can enter for free. A list of participating enterprises is online at www.vatl-tlcs.org.
Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in the province is 18. All hard liquor and spirits in Québec are sold through official government stores operated by the Québec Société des Alcools (look for maroon signs with the acronym SAQ). Wine and beer are available in grocery stores and convenience stores, called dépanneurs. Bars can pour drinks as late as 3am, but often stay open later.
Penalties for drunk driving in Canada are heavy. Provisions instituted in 2008 include higher mandatory penalties, such as a minimum fine of C$1,000 and 1 year driving prohibition for a convicted first offense, and for a second offense, a minimum of 14 days in jail and 2 to 5 years probation. Drivers caught under the influence face a maximum life sentence if they cause death, and a maximum 10-year sentence and possible lifetime ban on driving if they cause bodily harm. Learn more at www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca/en.
Special-Interest Vacations
Academic Trips & Language Classes
If you're itching to dust off your notebooks from high school French class, the Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM; tel. 514/987-3000, ext. 5621; www.langues.immersion.uqam.ca) offers French immersion courses for 1 to 3 weeks in either July or August. Students can opt for on-campus housing or stay with a host family. One session integrates French instruction with jazz events during the renowned Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. Programs are geared for persons 18 and up, beginners through intermediate.
Adults and teens alike can combine an array of activities with French language immersion in Québec City through Edu-Inter (tel. 514/613-0102; www.learningfrenchinquebec.com). Year-round sessions can quench an amour pour le français by combining language programs with skiing, cooking, horseback riding, or sight-seeing.
Adventure & Wellness Trips
Bike touring is wildly popular and well accommodated in Québec. The province inaugurated the Route Verte (Green Route), a 4,000km (2,485-mile) bike network, in the summer of 2007. Many inns and restaurants along the route actively work to accommodate the nutritional, safety, and equipment needs of cyclists.
Vélo Québec (tel. 800/567-8356 or 514/521-8356; www.velo.qc.ca) was behind the development of the Route Verte and offers excellent biking information. It also offers guided bike tours throughout the province, coordinating meals, accommodations, and baggage transport.
The gorgeously rural Charlevoix region, an hour north of Québec City, is the perfect place in which to take an eco-tour. Charlevoix was designated a protected UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 1988 and is subject to balanced development and cross-disciplinary research into conservation. For tour suggestions, check with Aventure Ecotourisme Québec (www.aventure-ecotourisme.qc.ca), an association of tour operators that provides outdoor adventure programs with a focus on environmental care and preservation. It is governed by a commitment policy which member companies promise to respect. It is partner to Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics (www.leavenotrace.ca), which educates operators and tourists about how to minimize the environmental impact of recreation. Aventure Ecotourisme also offers vacation planning.
One association member is Mer et Monde Ecotours (tel. 866/637-6663 or 418/232-6779; www.mer-et-monde.qc.ca), which puts on kayak trips in Charlevoix that take clients close to the whales who converge in the region each summer. For more information,
Food & Wine Trips
In Montréal, Europea restaurant (tel. 514/398-9229; www.europea.ca) offers 1-hour cooking lessons for C$45 per person (click on "L'Atelier" at the website). Europea knows of which it teaches: The title of Chef of the Year was bestowed on chef Jérôme Ferrer by the Société des Chefs, Cuisiniers et Pâtissiers du Québec in 2007.
Also in Montréal is the École de cuisine Mezza Luna, with Italian cooking classes by Elena Faita-Venditelli. She runs the packed-to-the-rafters cookware (and sportswear) shop Quincaillerie Dante, 6851 rue St-Dominique (tel. 514/271-2057). In 2008, Faita-Venditelli was named "l'Ordre national," the most prestigious honorary distinction in the province. Call tel. 514/272-5299 or visit www.ecolemezzaluna.ca to inquire; note that classes are often booked months in advance.
In the Laurentians, about an hour north of Montréal on the way to Mont-Tremblant, guests of L'Eau à la Bouche can opt for a weekend package that includes hands-on kitchen training with chef/owner Anne Desjardins. Call tel. 888/828-2991 or 450/229-2991, or visit www.leaualabouche.com.
In Québec City, the famed restaurant Laurie Raphaël (tel. 418/692-4555; www.laurieraphael.com) has a fancy public kitchen on its premises (along with a small boutique of cooking equipment). From September to May, chef/owner Daniel Vézina gives 3- to 4-hour cooking classes here on Saturday afternoons for C$185 per person (cost includes a meal, plus wine). Reservations are required. Also in Québec City, Les Artistes de la Table (tel. 418/694-1056; www.lesartistesdelatable.com) offers 4-hour custom cooking classes in the first floor of a gorgeous neoclassical building from 1850. Serious cooks will want to walk by just to peek at the kitchen through the vast windows. Cost is about C$120 per person.
If you have a car, the Route des Vins (Wine Route), 103km (64 miles) southeast of Montréal, is a pleasant vineyard tour that goes past Vignoble de l'Orpailleur (tel. 450/295-2763; www.orpailleur.ca), Domaine Pinnacle (tel. 450/263-5835; www.domainepinnacle.com), and Le Cep d'Argent (tel. 877/864-4441 or 819/864-4441; www.cepdargent.com), all within Cantons-de-l'Est, the region that specializes in cider and ice wine.
Foodies will also want to take a look at the website for The Gourmet Route, www.parcoursgourmand.com. The site promotes "gourmet tourism" and lists some 50 growers, processors, gourmet restaurants, and stores. An interactive map, at www.parcoursgourmand.com/eng/mdl-carte-parcours.asp, is especially useful for seeing what farms are nearest.
Fast Facts
ATMs/Banks -- Desjardins has a handy ATM near Hotel-de-Ville (City Hall) at 19 rue des Jardins (www.desjardins.com; tel 800/224-7737) and RBC Royal Bank has a location at 700 Place D'Youville (www.rbc.com; tel 418/692-6800). CIBC, TD Bank, and other Canadian banks also have ATMs in the greater area. In Canada, some debit cards require a four-digit pin and if your card has a longer one it can be declined. Calling your bank or credit card companies in advance of travel can prevent them from flagging your account. Also, as in other countries, it’s common to be charged fees when withdrawing from ATMs.
Business Hours -- Most businesses are open Monday through Saturday from around 9 or 10am and close between 5 and 6pm; some stay open until 9pm on Thursday and Friday. On Sunday, businesses typically open between 10am and noon and close at 5pm. Bank hours in Québec City are Monday through Friday from 10am to 3pm; occasionally hours are extended on Thursday and Friday, and Saturday morning. Most restaurants serve until 9:30 or 10pm. Bars stay open until 3am with some “after hours” options. A list of holidays on which most businesses are closed can be found at www.quebecregion.com. In general, hours are longer in high season (May–Sept) and during Carnaval.
Dentists -- Tourisme Québec advises calling tel 418/666-4363 Monday through Friday or if an emergency on weekends.
Doctors & Hospitals -- In Québec City there’s a five-hospital network called CHUQ, which is affiliated with the University of Laval's medical school. The L'Hôtel-Dieu de Québec (www.chuq.qc.ca; tel 418/525-4444) is in Upper Town at 11 côte du Palais. It’s a teaching hospital (and a national historic site of Canada) and has an emergency room.
Emergencies -- Dial tel 911 for police, fire, or ambulance assistance.
Internet Access -- Many public spaces such as cafes have free Wi-Fi; hotel lobbies are often free Wi-Fi hotspots but many charge a daily access rate. Zap Québec tracks free Wi-Fi hotspots at www.zapquebec.org.
Mail & Postage -- Québec City’s most centrally located postal station in the tourist area is at 5 rue du Fort, near Château Frontenac in Upper Town.
Newspapers & Magazines -- Québec’s source for English-language news is the Québec Chronicle-Telegraph, published in print every Wednesday and online at www.qctonline.com. As the descendant of several newspapers published for more than 3 centuries, in June 2014 it celebrated its 250th anniversary as North America's oldest newspaper.
Pets -- In public areas, owners must clean up after pets, and dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet. In case of veterinary emergency, call tel 418/872-5355. If traveling into Canada with a dog, be advised to have a rabies certificate on hand and to consult the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (www.inspection.gc.ca) for other restrictions on visiting pets.
Pharmacies -- Brunet (605 rue St-Joseph est, Upper Town; www.brunet.ca; tel 418/529-5741), Pharmaprix (698 rue St-Jean, Upper Town; www1.pharmaprix.ca; tel 418/529-2171), and Uniprix (369 rue de la Couronne, St-Roch; www.uniprix.com; tel 418/529-2121) are three chain pharmacies with multiple outlets in Québec City. Note that when searching for a location online, the pharmacy may be listed under the pharmacist’s name, but is still a storefront.
Safety -- The tourist sections of Québec City are well-lit and pedestrian friendly. Generally, it’s safe to walk after dark, particularly during one of the city’s many festivals when people are out and about. A 2012 Canadian Centre for Justice Statistics study on police-reported crime reported that Canada’s crime rate had dipped to its lowest level in 40 years with Québec City reporting the second lowest crime rate of the major cities. Still, always take the usual precautions.
Tipping -- Tipping practices in the province are similar to those in large Western cities. Québecers are known to add up GST and QST taxes on their restaurant bills to get a quick tip amount of approximately 15%.
Money
Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.
One of the perks of a holiday in Montréal is that it's noticeably less expensive than other major world cities such as New York, London, and Tokyo.
ATMs (guichet automatique) are practically everywhere, in shopping centers, bars, variety stores, gas stations, etc. Bank machines don't typically charge user fees if that is your banking institution back home, but call ahead to make sure. Elsewhere, ATMs are notorious for charging extremely high flat rates to withdraw cash, often about C$5 even on a minimum withdrawal of C$20. Many institutions (and some taxis) now also accept payment by bank card, and credit card microchip usage with PIN instead of signing. Most machines only allow a four-digit PIN, so check with your bank beforehand should you have a five- or six-digit PIN.
Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.
For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.
What Things Cost in Montréal & Québec City (C$)
Taxi from the airport to downtown Montréal 38.00
Taxi from the airport to downtown Québec City 33.00
Double room, moderate from 160.00
Double room, inexpensive from 100.00
Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 20.00-25.00
Bottle of beer 2.00-4.00
Cup of coffee 1.00-2.00
1 liter of premium gas 1.42
Admission to most museums 10.00-17.00
Admission to most national parks Free
Tips for Families
Montréal and Québec City offer an abundance of family-oriented activities. Many of them are outdoors, even in winter. Watersports, river cruises, fort climbing, and fireworks displays are among summer's many attractions, with dog sledding and skiing the top choices in snowy months. Québec City's walls and fortifications are fodder for imagining the days of knights and princesses. In both cities, many museums make special efforts to address children's interests and enthusiasms.
Children who speak French or are learning French might like a guidebook of their own. The fun Mon Premier Guide de Voyage au Québec (Ulysse) has 96 pages of photos, miniessays, and activities for kids age 6 to 12. You can find it in provincial bookshops.
For a list of more family-friendly travel resources, visit www.frommers.com/planning.
Health & Safety
Canada has a state-run health system, and Québec hospitals are modern and decently equipped, with well-trained staffs. You are unlikely to get sick from Canada's food or water.
In general, Canadians who reside outside the province of Québec are covered by an interprovincial agreement, which allows them to present their own province's health card (e.g., OHIP card in Ontario) and have their health services covered by direct billing. In some cases, however, services must be paid for upfront and patients must seek reimbursement from their home province.
Medical treatment in Canada isn't free for foreigners, and doctors and hospitals will make you pay at the time of service.
Familiar over-the-counter medicines are widely available in Canada. If there is a possibility that you will run out of prescribed medicines during your visit, take along a prescription from your doctor. Have the generic name of prescription medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Pack medications in your carry-on luggage and have them in their original containers with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they may not make it through airport security. If you're entering Canada with syringes used for medical reasons, bring a medical certificate that shows they are for medical use and be sure to declare them to Canadian Customs officials.
If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before departure.
Safety
Montréal and Québec City are extremely safe cities, and far safer than their U.S. or European counterparts of similar size. Montréal in 2008, for instance, had 29 homicides for the entire year, the lowest number since police began collecting statistics. Street gang wars, which plague many cities, are nearly nonexistent here.
Still, common sense insists that visitors stay alert and observe the usual urban precautions. It's best to stay out of parks at night and to take a taxi when returning from a late dinner or nightclub.
Québec is one of Canada's more liberal provinces. Mass demonstrations are rare and political violence is unusual. Tolerance of others is a Canadian characteristic, and it's highly unlikely that visitors of ethnic, religious, or racial minorities will encounter even mild forms of discrimination. That applies to sexual orientation, as well, especially in Montréal, which has one of the largest and most visible gay communities in North America.
Calendar of Events
Year-round, it's nearly impossible to miss a celebration of some sort in Montréal and Québec City. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.
February
Carnaval de Québec, Québec City. Never mind that temperatures in Québec regularly plummet in winter to well below freezing. Québecers are extraordinarily good-natured about the cold and happily pack the family up to come out and play. A snowman called Bonhomme (Good Fellow) shuffles into town to preside over the merriment, and revelers descend upon the city to eddy around a monumental ice palace erected in front of the Parliament Building, to watch a dog-sledding race on Old Town's narrow streets, to play foosball on a human-size scale, to fly over crowds on a zip line, to ride down snowy hills in rubber tubes, and (not least of all) to dance at outdoor concerts.
The party is family-friendly, even considering the wide availability of plastic trumpets and canes filled with a concoction called caribou, the principal ingredients of which are cheap liquor and sweet red wine. Try not to miss the canoe race that has teams rowing, dragging, and stumbling with canoes across the St. Lawrence's treacherous ice floes. It's homage to how the city used to break up the ice to keep a path open to Lévis, the town across the river.
A C$12 pass provides access to most activities over the 17 days. Hotel reservations must be made well in advance. Call tel. 866/422-7628 or 418/621-5555, or visit www.carnaval.qc.ca for details. January 27 to February 12, 2012.
June
Jean-Baptiste Day. Honoring St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of French-Canadians, this day is marked by far more festivities and enthusiasm throughout Québec than is Canada Day on July 1. It's Québec's own fête nationale with fireworks, bonfires, music in parks, and parades. Call tel. 514/527-9891 or visit www.fetenationale.qc.ca for details. June 24.
July
Canada Day. On July 1, 1867, three British colonies joined together to form the federation of Canada, with further independence from Britain coming in stages in the 1880s. Celebrations of Canada's birthday are biggest in Ottawa, though there are concerts, flag raisings, and family festivities in Montréal and Québec City. July 1.
Festival d'Eté (Summer Festival), Québec City. The world's largest Francophone music festival happens in the heart of Vieux-Québec and, since 2007, in the St-Roch neighborhood. More than 400 performances of rock, jazz, reggae, and classical take place at both indoor and outdoor venues. Elton John and Metallica graced the stage in 2011 -- although not at the same time. Call tel. 888/992-5200 or 418/523-4540, or check www.infofestival.com. Held July 5 to 15, 2012.
Les Grands Feux Loto-Québec, Québec City. Overlapping with Montréal's fireworks competition , Québec's event uses the highly scenic Montmorency Falls 15 minutes north of the city center as its setting. Pyrotechnical teams are invited from countries around the world. Tickets get you admission to the base of the falls: There are 5,500 reserved bleacher seats and 30,000 general-admission tickets. Call tel. 888/523-3389 or 418/523-3389, or go to www.quebecfireworks.com, for details. Wednesdays and Saturdays, late July to mid-August. Check for 2012 dates.
September
La Fête des Vendanges. This event gives attendees a chance to discover the scenic wine country and charming streets of Magog and Orford in the Eastern Townships. During the grape harvest season, visitors can partake in dinner cruises along Lac Memphrémagog, street festivals, and restaurant events that bring together chefs and wine producers for special dinner collaborations. Last year's dates were September 3, 4, 5, 10, and 11. Visit www.fetedesvendanges.com for updates.
Fall Foliage. Starting midmonth, the maple trees blaze with color, and a walk in the parks of Montréal and Québec City is a refreshing tonic. It's also a perfect time to drive to the Laurentians or Cantons-de-L'Est (both near Montréal) or Île d'Orléans or Charlevoix (both easy drives from Québec City).
December
Christmas through New Year's, Québec City. Celebrating the holidays a la française is a particular treat here, where the streets are almost certainly banked with snow and nearly every ancient building sports wreaths, decorated fir trees, and glittery white lights.
Orientation
Because of its beauty, history, and unique stature as a walled city, Québec City's historic district was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Almost all of a visit to Québec City can be spent on foot in the old Lower Town, which hugs the river below the bluff, and in the old Upper Town, atop Cap Diamant (Cape Diamond). Many accommodations, restaurants, and tourist-oriented services are based in these places.
The colonial city was first built right down by the St. Lawrence River. It was here that the earliest merchants, traders, and boatmen earned their livelihoods. Unfriendly fire from the British and Amerindians in the 1700s moved residents to safer houses atop the cliffs that form the rim of the Cap. The tone and atmosphere of the 17th and 18th centuries still suffuse these areas today.
Basse-Ville (Lower Town) became primarily a district of wharves and warehouses. That trend has been reversed, with small hotels and many attractive bistros and shops bringing life to the area. It maintains the architectural feel of its origins, however, reusing old buildings and maintaining the narrow cobbled streets.
Haute-Ville (Upper Town) turned out to not be immune to cannon fire, as the British General James Wolfe proved in 1759 when he took the city from the French. Nevertheless, the division into Upper and Lower towns persisted for obvious topographical reasons. Upper Town remains enclosed by fortification walls, with a cliff-side elevator (funiculaire) and several steep streets connecting it to Lower Town.
Île d'Orléans is an agricultural and residential island within sight of Vieux-Québec. It's less than 20 minutes from downtown by car and makes a pleasant day trip. Consider, too, a drive along the St. Lawrence's northern coast past the shrine of Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré, the waterfalls near Mont Ste-Anne, and on to pastoral Charlevoix and the Saguenay River, where whales come to play.
Main Avenues & Streets -- Within the walls of Haute-Ville (Upper Town), the principal streets are St-Louis (which becomes Grande-Allée outside the city walls), Ste-Anne, and St-Jean. In Basse-Ville (Lower Town), major streets are St-Pierre, Dalhousie, St-Paul, and (parallel to St-Paul) St-André. Detailed maps of Upper and Lower towns and the metropolitan area are available at the tourist offices.
Finding an Address -- If it were larger, the historic district's winding and plunging streets might be confusing to negotiate. However, the area is very compact. Most streets are only a few blocks long, making navigation and finding a specific address fairly easy.
Tips for Women Travelers
Montréal and Québec City are generally safe cities for female adults. Do exercise caution, however, especially when walking alone at night.
Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers
The province of Québec is a destination for international gay travelers. Gay life here is generally open and accepted (gay marriage is legal throughout the province), and gay travelers are heavily marketed to. Travelers will find the rainbow flag prominently displayed on the doors and websites of many hotels and restaurants in all the city's neighborhoods.
The Tourisme Montréal website, www.tourisme-montreal.org, has a "Gay and Lesbian" link under "Tourist" that lists gay-friendly accommodations, events, websites for queer meet-ups, and more. Of several local queer publications, the most thorough is Fugues (www.fugues.com), which lists events, as well as gay-friendly lodgings, clubs, saunas, and other resources. Free copies are available at tourist offices and in racks around the city. Gay Line (tel. 888/505-1010 or 514/866-5090; www.gayline.qc.ca) is a help line offering advice on over 550 accommodations, events, and services. In Montréal, many gay and lesbian travelers head straight to the Village (also known as "the Gay Village"), a neighborhood east of downtown located primarily along rue Ste-Catherine est between rue St-Hubert and rue Papineau. Here, there are antiques shops, bars, B&Bs, and clubs, clubs, clubs. The Beaudry Métro station is at the heart of the neighborhood and is marked by the rainbow flag. As the Tourisme Montréal website says, "Rainbow columns on a subway station entrance? I've got a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore!" The Village is action central on any night, but it especially picks up during the weeklong celebration of sexual diversity known as Divers/Cité (www.diverscite.org) in late July and early August and the Black & Blue Festival (www.bbcm.org), an October event that's one of the world's largest circuit parties, with a week of entertainment and club dancing. In 2006, Montréal added a pink feather to its cap by hosting the first World Outgames, attracting more than 16,000 athletes. When you're visiting the neighborhood, stop in at the Village Tourism Information Centre at 1307 rue Ste-Catherine est (tel. 888/595-8110 or 514/522-1885), open June to August from noon to 6pm (days vary; call in advance). There's information about everything from wine bars to yoga classes. It's operated by the Québec Gay Chamber of Commerce (www.ccgq.ca).
In Québec City, the community is much smaller. Geographically, it's centered in Upper Town just outside the city walls, on rue St-Jean and the parallel rue d'Aiguillon, starting from where they cross rue St-Augustin and heading west. Le Drague Cabaret Club at 815 rue St-Augustin (tel. 418/649-7212; www.ledrague.com), or "the Drag," is a central gathering place with a cabaret and two dance rooms.
In early September, Québec City hosts a 3-day gay-pride fest, Fête Arc-en-Ciel (www.glbtquebec.org), which attracts thousands of people to Place d'Youville.
Getting There
Served by highways, transcontinental trains and buses, and several airports, Montréal and Québec City are easily accessible from within Canada, the U.S., or overseas.
By Plane
Most of the world's major airlines fly into the Aéroport International Pierre-Elliott-Trudeau de Montréal (airport code YUL; tel. 800/465-1213 or 514/394-7377; www.admtl.com), more commonly known as Montréal-Trudeau Airport. It used to be called Montréal-Dorval, which you'll find on older maps.
In Québec City, the teeny Jean Lesage International Airport (airport code YQB; tel. 418/640-2600; www.aeroportdequebec.com) is served by a number of major airlines. Most air traffic comes by way of Montréal, although there are some direct flights from Canadian and U.S. cities, including Toronto; Ottawa; Chicago; Washington, D.C.; Philadelphia; New York; and Detroit. Some direct flights are seasonal only.
Tip: Save time and hassle by arranging your flights so that your Customs entry takes place at your final Canadian destination. For instance, if you are flying from the U.S. and have to make one or more stops en route to Canada, make the transfer in the U.S. Otherwise, when you land in Canada you'll have to collect your bags, pass through Customs, and then check your bags again before continuing on to your final destination.
Getting into Town from the Airport -- Montréal-Trudeau is served by Express Bus 747, which debuted in March 2010. It operates 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and runs between the airport and the Berri-UQAM Métro station (the city's main bus terminal). It has about half a dozen designated stops along boulevard René-Lévesque. A trip takes about 35 minutes, and buses leave every 20 to 30 minutes. One-way tickets are sold for C$8 at the currency exchange (ICE) location on the airport's international arrivals level, and downtown at the Berri-UQAM station and the Infotourist Centre, 1255 rue Peel (tel. 877/266-5687 or 514/873-2015; Métro: Peel). Details are at www.stm.info/info/747.htm. Hotels that offer shuttles are listed on the airport's website under "Access and Parking."
A taxi trip to downtown Montréal costs a flat fare of C$38, plus tip. Call tel. 514/394-7377 for more information.
From Québec City's airport, a taxi to downtown is a fixed-rate C$33. There is a public bus, no. 78, but it runs only to the Les Saules bus terminal, at the corner of boulevard Massona and rue Michelet, which is well outside the tourist area. You'll need to transfer from there. The bus runs Monday through Friday and costs C$2.60, exact change only. Ask at the airport for the best route; you can also call tel. 418/627-2511 or visit www.rtcquebec.ca.
Renting a Car on Arrival -- Terms, cars, and prices for car rentals are similar to those in the rest of North America and Europe, and all the major companies operate in Québec. Basic rates are about the same from company to company, although a little comparison shopping can unearth modest savings. A charge is usually levied when you return a car in a location other than the one in which it was rented.
Québec is the first Canadian province to mandate that residents have radial snow tires on their cars in winter. The law, which went into effect in late 2008, runs from mid-December until March 15. Rental-car agencies are required to provide snow tires on car rentals during that period, and many charge an extra, nonnegotiable fee.
The minimum driving age is 16 in Québec, but some car-rental companies will not rent to people under 25. Others charge higher rates for drivers under the age of 21. Renters under 25 may be asked for a major credit card in the same name as their driver's license.
By Bus
Montréal's central bus station, called Station Centrale d'Autobus (tel. 514/842-2281), is at 505 boul. de Maisonneuve est. It has a restaurant and an information booth. Beneath the terminal is Berri-UQAM Station, the junction of several Métro lines. (UQAM -- pronounced "Oo-kahm" -- stands for Université de Québec à Montréal.) Alternatively, taxis usually line up outside the terminal building.
Québec City's bus terminal, at 320 rue Abraham-Martin (tel. 418/525-3000), is just beside the train station. As from the train station, it's an uphill climb or short cab ride to Upper Town or other parts of Lower Town.
By Car
All international drivers must carry a valid driver's license from their country of residence. A U.S. license is sufficient as long as you are a visitor and actually are a U.S. resident. A U.K. license is sufficient, as well. If the driver's license is in a language other than French or English, an additional International Driver's Permit is required.
From Toronto to Montréal, the drive is about 5 hours. Most of your route is along the 401 highway (Macdonald-Cartier Hwy.), which you'll take until you reach "the 20" (Autoroute du Souvenir) at the Ontario-Québec border. From there it's about an hour to downtown Montréal.
Driving north to Montréal from the U.S., the entire journey is on expressways. From New York City, all but about the last 64km (40 miles) of the 603km (375-mile) trip are within New York state on Interstate 87. I-87 links up with Canada's Autoroute 15 at the border, which goes straight to Montréal.
From Boston, I-93 goes up through New Hampshire's White Mountains and merges into I-91 to cross the tip of Vermont. At the border, I-91 becomes Autoroute 55. Signs lead to Autoroute 10 west, which goes into Montréal. Boston to Montréal is 518km (322 miles).
Québec City is 867km (539 miles) from New York City and 644km (400 miles) from Boston. From New York, follow the directions to Montréal, and then pick up Autoroute 20 to Québec City. From Boston, follow the directions to Montréal, but at Autoroute 10, go east instead of west to stay on Autoroute 55. Get on Autoroute 20 to Québec City and follow signs for the Pont Pierre-Laporte, the major bridge into the city. Turn right onto Boulevard Wilfrid-Laurier (Rte. 175) shortly after crossing the bridge. It changes names first to Boulevard Laurier and then to Grande-Allée, a main boulevard that leads directly into the central Parliament Hill area and the Old City. Once the street passes through the ancient walls that ring the Old City, it becomes rue St-Louis, which leads straight to the famed Château Frontenac on the cliff above the St. Lawrence River.
Another appealing option when you're approaching Québec City from the south is to follow Route 132 along the river's southern side to the town of Lévis. A car ferry there, Traverse Québec-Lévis (tel. 877/787-7483 or 418/643-2019; www.traversiers.gouv.qc.ca), provides a 10-minute ride across the river and a dramatic way to see the city, especially for the first time. Though the schedule varies substantially through the year, the ferry leaves at least every hour from 6am to 2am. One-way costs C$6.75 for the car and driver, C$3 for each additional adult, and C$12 for a car with up to six passengers.
When driving between Québec City from Montréal, there are two options: Autoroute 40, which runs along the St. Lawrence's north shore, and Autoroute 20, on the south side (although not hugging the water at all). The trip takes about 3 hours.
In Canada, highway distances and speed limits are given in kilometers (km). The speed limit on the autoroutes is 100kmph (62 mph). There's a stiff penalty for neglecting to wear your seatbelt, and all passengers must be buckled up.
Note on radar detectors: Radar detectors are prohibited in the province of Québec. They can be confiscated, even if they're not being used.
It is illegal to turn right on a red light on the island of Montréal. It is permitted in the rest of Québec and Canada.
Cellphone use is restricted to hands-free only while driving.
In 2008, Québec became the first province to mandate that residents have radial snow tires on their cars in winter. Visitors and their cars are exempt, but the law does give an indication of how seriously rough the winter driving can be. Consider using snow tires when traveling in the region from December through March. Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) are covered by the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) while driving in Canada.
Fill Up Before Crossing Over -- Gasoline in Canada is expensive by American standards. Gas is sold by the liter, and 3.78 liters equals 1 gallon. Recent prices of about C$1.40 per liter are equivalent to about US$4.35 per gallon. If you're driving from the U.S., fill up before crossing the border.
By Train
If you're coming from Toronto, you'll board the train at Union Station, which is downtown and accessible by subway. Montréal is a major terminus on Canada's VIA Rail network (tel. 888/842-7245 or 514/989-2626; www.viarail.ca). Its station, Gare Centrale, at 895 rue de la Gauchetière ouest (tel. 514/989-2626), is centrally located downtown. The station is connected to the Métro subway system at Bonaventure Station. (Gare Windsor, which you might see on some maps, is the city's former train station. It's a castlelike building now used for offices.)
Québec City's train station, Gare du Palais, is in Lower Town at 450 rue de la Gare-du-Palais. Many of the hotels listed in this guide are up an incline from the station, so a short cab ride might be necessary.
VIA Rail trains are comfortable -- all major routes have Wi-Fi, and some trains are equipped with dining cars and sleeping cars.
The U.S. train system, Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com), has one train per day to Montréal from New York that makes intermediate stops. Called the Adirondack, it's very slow, but its scenic route passes along the Hudson River's eastern shore and west of Lake Champlain. It takes 11 hours from New York if all goes well, although delays aren't unusual.
The train ride between Montréal and Québec City takes about 3 hours.
By Boat
Both Montréal and Québec City are stops for cruise ships that travel along the St. Lawrence River (in French, Fleuve Saint-Laurent). The Port of Montréal, where ships dock, is part of the lively Vieux-Port neighborhood and walking distance from restaurants and shops.
Similarly, in Québec City, ships also dock in a neighborhood called Vieux-Port. As in Montréal, there is an abundance of restaurants and shops in walking distance.
Visitor Information
High season in Québec City is from June 24 (Jean-Baptiste Day, a provincial holiday) through Labour Day (the first Monday in September, as in the U.S., a national holiday). For those 11 weeks, the city is in highest gear. Tourist offices, museums, and restaurants all expand their operating hours, and hotels charge top dollar. This book notes the changes in hours and prices throughout the year for many venues, but it’s best to call and confirm open hours before making a special trip to an attraction or restaurant outside of the high season.
The most central tourist information center is in Upper Town, across from the Château Frontenac and directly on Place d’Armes. Centre Infotouriste de Québec, 12 rue Ste-Anne (www.bonjourquebec.com; tel 877/266-5687), is run by the province of Québec’s tourism department and is open from 9am to 7pm daily from late June through to August and from 9am to 5pm daily the rest of the year. It has brochures, a lodging reservation service, a currency-exchange office, and information about tours by foot, bus, or boat. Also in front of the Château on Dufferin Terrace, is Kiosk Frontenac, operated by Parks Canada (www.pc.gc.ca; tel 888/773-8888 or 418/648-7016). Guided tours of the Fortifications of Québec start here. It’s open late May to mid-October from 10am to 5:30pm.
From mid-June to early September, service agents for Québec City Tourism (www.quebecregion.com; tel 877/783-1608 or 418/641-6290) ride throughout the tourist district on motor scooters to answer any questions you have. In French, they’re called the service mobile, and their blue mopeds bear flags with a large question mark. Just hail them as they approach—they’re bilingual.
Tips for Senior Travelers
Mention the fact that you're a senior citizen when you make your travel reservations. Many Québec hotels offer discounts for older travelers.
Throughout the province, theaters, museums, and other attractions offer reduced admission to people as young as 60.
Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and older, and offers a variety of trips to Québec City and Montréal.
The best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman, includes information about Canadian travel.