It’s almost as if chefs Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand anticipated the reviews when naming their restaurant: “Chez Boulay Bistro à Boréal is more than a mouthful . . .” It’s much more, actually (and it goes by Chez Boulay for short). The airy, modern bistro opened in 2012 as part of renovation of Hôtel Manoir Victoria, and it fills a need in this part of Upper Town for an all-around reliably good meal in an upscale, but not over-the-top ambience. Boulay, who has been perfecting his craft for more than 35 years at Le Saint-Amour (see below), wouldn’t stand for much less than perfection. The menu is Nordic-inspired with deer, duck, mackerel, Labrador tea spice, wintergreen, and birch syrup among the traditional ingredients. Portions are generous, especially at brunch (Sat–Sun, 10am–2pm). The clientele is locals with discriminating palettes and visitors looking for a much nicer alternative to the pub fare that seems ubiquitous on this street.