QUÉBÉCOIS The owners of this quirkily exquisite endeavor, Jacques Fortier and head chef Jean Luc Boulay, wouldn’t want a neon arrow pointing to their restaurant. Since they opened Le Saint-Amour in 1978 they’ve hardly needed a shingle out front. It’s tucked away on a quiet Upper Town side street—a sole black awning over an arched doorway—exactly where you’d want to step out of a horse-drawn carriage for a romantic dinner for two. Make the reservations. The interior speaks more to the 1970s than to present day, but the service is relentlessly adept and the dishes remain subtly complex. Foie gras is a specialty (seared, in terrine) and though the chef has long embraced the meats, his kitchen turns out incredible meatless options, especially when requested in advance. The now-infamous 2008 visit by Sir Paul McCartney (a vegetarian) to this establishment clearly had an impact. Desserts here may be the best in town.