QUÉBÉCOIS Chef and co-owner Christian Lemelin started cooking at age 17 and, now into his 30s, still seems young. His menu is agile and not afraid to reveal itself with grand verbosity: “Breast of young duck from Canard Goulu farm, fried on its chest and spiced with adobo” for example, served with “semi-dried grape tomato and buttered rapini, 20 year xérès jus . . .” And so on. Though prices are high (add seared foie gras to any entrée for C$20), the atmosphere is lively and laid-back.