In One Day in Quebec City

With an ancient wall surrounding the oldest part of the city, Québec City sustains the look of a provincial European village that keeps watch over the powerful St. Lawrence River. For a short visit, book a hotel or B&B within the walls of the Haute-Ville (Upper Town) or in the quieter Basse-Ville (Lower Town). Start: Château Frontenac.

1. Château Frontenac

As soon as you're done unpacking, head to Château Frontenac -- its peaked copper roofs are visible from everywhere. Tours of the historic hotel are available, and it has a posh bar and pretty cafe. The long promenade alongside the hotel, the Terrasse Dufferin, offers panoramic views of the St. Lawrence River and Basse-Ville (Lower Town). In winter, an old-fashioned toboggan run is set up on the steep staircase at the south end.

Head down to Basse-Ville either by the funiculaire, the glass-encased outdoor elevator, or the staircase called L'escalier du Casse-Cou. They're right next to each other. Both routes end at the top of rue du Petit-Champlain, a touristy pedestrian street of shops and restaurants. Walk down rue Sous-le-Fort and make the first left turn to reach:

2. Place-Royale

This small but picturesque square was the site of the first European colony in Canada and is surrounded by restored 17th- and 18th-century houses. The church on one side was built in 1688. A visit to the Centre d'Interprétation de Place-Royale is an option here.

Past the Centre d'Interprétation, at the end of rue Notre-Dame, turn around to view a trompe l'oeil mural depicting citizens of the early city. Continue past the mural and turn right to walk toward the river. Turn left on rue Dalhousie and walk to:

3. Musée de la Civilisation

A city highlight. This ambitious museum, filled with fascinating exhibits, can easily fill 2 or 3 hours. Don't miss the permanent exhibit, "People of Québec . . . Then and Now," which explores the province's roots as a fur-trading colony and gives visitors a rich sense of Québec's daily life over the generations.

Leaving the museum, turn left on rue Dalhousie, left on rue St-Paul, and walk to rue du Sainte-au-Matelot.

4. A Bounty of Bistros

Within a block of the corner of rues St-Paul and du Sault-au-Matelot are some of the city's best bistros and casual eating places. Almost any of them will do for a snack or a meal, but our top choice is L'Echaudé, 73 rue du Sault-au-Matelot (tel. 418/692-1299). It offers excellent value for classic French dishes and puts out sidewalk tables in summer.

5. Rue St-Paul & Antiquing

The northern end of rue St-Paul is great for browsing for antiques and collectibles.

Turn right at rue St-Thomas and cross rue St-André.

6. Marché du Vieux-Port

This large market is open year-round, and offers produce and other agricultural products for sale.