Planning a trip to Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef
When to Go Winter (June–Aug) is high season in Queensland; the water can be chilly—at least to Australians—but its temperature rarely drops below 72[dg]F (22[dg]C). April through November is the best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef, because although southeast trade winds can sometimes make it a tad choppy at sea, this is peak visibility time for divers. December through March can be uncomfortably hot and humid, particularly as far north as the Whitsundays, Cairns, and Port Douglas. In the winter months (June–Aug), the water can be a touch chilly (Aussies think so, anyway), but it rarely drops below 72[dg]F (22[dg]C).
The Queensland Holidays website at www.queenslandholidays.com.au, is a great resource on traveling and touring the state, including the Great Barrier Reef, or call Go Queensland ( tel. 13 88 33 in Australia; www.goqueensland.com.au) to book online or speak to a Queensland travel specialist. Tourism & Events Queensland has websites specifically designed for overseas markets; in the United States go to www.destinationqueensland.com and for the United Kingdom check out www.experiencequeensland.
Travel Online (tel. 07/3804 8411; fax 07/3208 3266; www.travelonline.com) is a Queensland-based private company offering itinerary planning and booking services for a wide range of accommodations and tours throughout the state.
For information on B&Bs and farmstays in Cairns, Port Douglas and Mission Beach, contact the Bed & Breakfast and Farmstay Association of Far North Queensland, P.O. Box 595, Ravenshoe, QLD 4888 (tel. 07/4097 7022; www.bnbnq.com.au).
The Reef Tax -- Every passenger over 4 years old must pay a A$4.50 daily Environmental Management Charge (EMC), commonly called the "reef tax," every time they visit the Great Barrier Reef. This money goes toward the management and conservation of the Reef. Your tour operator will collect it from you when you pay for your trip.
Getting Around
Getting Around By Car The Bruce Highway travels along the coast from Brisbane to Cairns. It is mostly a narrow two-lane highway, with the scenery varying from eucalyptus bushland to sugarcane fields.
Tourism Queensland publishes regional motoring guides. All you are likely to need, however, is a state map from the Royal Automobile Club of Queensland (RACQ) ( tel. 13 19 05 in Australia; www.racq.com.au). A large range of touring maps is available online, and the website is brimming with advice about driving in Australia. For recorded road-condition reports, call tel. 13 19 40. Specialist map shop World Wide Maps & Guides, in the Anzac Square Arcade, 267 Edward St., Brisbane ( tel. 07/3221 4330; www.worldwidemaps.com.au), is open Monday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm and 10am to 3pm on Saturdays. It stocks a range of Australia maps, atlases, and street directories.
By Train Queensland Rail ( tel. 1800/872 467 in Australia; www.queenslandrail.com.au) operates two long-distance trains along the Brisbane-Cairns route, a 32-hour trip aboard the Sunlander or about 5 hours less on the high-speed Spirit of Queensland.
By Plane This is the fastest way to see a lot in such a big state. Qantas ( tel. 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) and its subsidiaries QantasLink and Jetstar ( tel. 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) serve most coastal towns from Brisbane, and a few from Cairns. Virgin Australia ( tel. 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginaustralia.com) services Brisbane, Cairns, Townsville, Gladstone, Bundaberg, and Proserpine and Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays, as well as other centers.
Getting There
Cairns and Port Douglas are good places from which to visit the Reef -- but the quality of the coral is just as good off any town along the coast between Bundaberg and Cairns. The Reef is pretty much equidistant from any point on the coast north of Mission Beach -- about 90 minutes away by high-speed catamaran. From Townsville, the Reef is about 2 1/2 hours away.
Think carefully about where to base yourself. The main gateways, north to south, are Port Douglas, Cairns, Mission Beach, Townsville, the Whitsunday Islands, Gladstone (for Heron Island), and Bundaberg. The Whitsundays have the added attractions of dazzling islands to sail among; beautiful island resorts offering a wealth of watersports and other activities; and a large array of diving, fishing, and day cruises. Most important, you can snorkel every day off your island or join a sailing or cruise day trip to a number of magnificent fringing or inner shelf reefs much nearer than the main Outer Reef. Many people stay in Cairns simply because of its easy international airport access.
If you are a nonswimmer, choose a Reef cruise that visits a coral cay, because a cay slopes gradually into shallow water and the surrounding coral. The Low Isles at Port Douglas; Green Island, Michaelmas Cay, or Upolu Cay off Cairns; Beaver Cay off Mission Beach; and Heron Island are all good locations. Swimmer supports are available so nonswimmers can snorkel, too.
Health & Safety
Reef Health & Safety Warnings
Coral is very sharp, and coral cuts get infected quickly and badly. If you cut yourself, ask the staff on your cruise boat for immediate first aid as soon as you come out of the water.
The sun and reflected sunlight off the water can burn you fast. Remember to put sunscreen on your back and the back of your legs, especially around your knees and the back of your neck, and even behind your ears -- all places that rarely get exposed to the sun but will be exposed as you swim facedown. Apply more when you leave the water.
When to Go
Winter (June-Aug) is high season in Queensland; the water can be chilly -- at least to Australians -- but its temperature rarely drops below 72°F (22°C). April through October is peak visibility time for divers. Summer is hot and sticky across the state. In North Queensland (Mission Beach, Cairns, and Port Douglas), the monsoonal Wet season is from November or December through March or April. With heavy rains, high temperatures, extreme humidity, and cyclones, it deserves its alternative name: the "Green" season.
When to Visit the Reef -- April through November is the best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef, although southeast trade winds can sometimes make it a tad choppy at sea. December through March can be uncomfortably hot and humid, particularly as far north as the Whitsundays, Cairns, and Port Douglas. In the winter months (June-Aug), the water can be a touch chilly (Aussies think so, anyway), but it rarely drops below 72°F (22°C).