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Terres Rouges Lodge (Boeung Kansaign; tel. 075/974-051; www.ratanakiri-lodge.com; $35 double, $40 twin, $65 deluxe, $85 suite) is a beautiful old wooden house with leafy gardens and even a small swimming pool. It is real luxury for this part of the world, and there is even an attached spa. The rooms are rustic but stylish with plenty of dark-wood furnishings. The restaurant and bar serves both Khmer and French food, though the harder to prepare dishes need to be ordered a day in advance. It is the best restaurant in town. Treetop Eco-Lodge (Hillside district; tel. 012/490-333; $10 double) opened in early 2009. It offers beautiful bungalows with wraparound verandas that hang from the side of a verdant hillside. The bungalows are well appointed for the location with electricity, vaulted ceilings, and an en suite bathroom. The restaurant has a nice atmosphere while the food is nothing to write home about. The Yaklom Hill Lodge (10-min. drive in dry season east of Banlung past the lake; tel. 012/644-240; www.yaklom.com; $10 single, $15 double, $20 triple, $45 deluxe bungalow) is an ecolodge that is set in the middle of the woods 6km (3 3/4 miles) out of town, with wooden bungalows interspersed among the trees. You'll find yourself completely removed from the world outside (this impression is advanced by the lack of electricity during the day). During wet season the proximity of all that foliage ensures that the atmosphere is also one of constant damp. The restaurant serves both Khmer and Thai food. The Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel (far side of the lake; tel. 012/957-422; $10 double A/C; $5 double fan; $20 bungalow) is set on the other side of town among leafy surrounds. The rooms come with hot water and TV so you can enjoy modern amenities in tandem with great lake views, all at a very reasonable price.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.