Centro -- Recife's historic downtown is a bustling and fascinating part of the city during business hours. Most of the restaurants in Centro cater to a business and office-lunch crowd and are closed at night and on weekends. The best spot in the evening is in Old Recife around the Rua do Bom Jesus, where most bars serve full meals or excellent appetizers.
Try a Tapioca Pancake -- Thursday through Sunday from 2 to 10pm, there's a small market at the Praça da Boa Viagem. Though the crafts are nothing special, the tapioca pancakes are worth writing home about. These small pancakes are made from scratch with tapioca flour; it's kind of fun to watch the women pour the tiny tapioca grains on the skillet and see a pancake slowly take form. Served either sweet (with coconut and condensed milk) or savory (with cheese), these are mighty addictive little treats.
Who'd-a-thought artists could cook? Long known as an artistic center, Olinda has recently begun to establish itself as the best place for fine dining in Recife.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.