The allure of both Olinda and Recife lies not so much in particular sights as in the urban fabric. In Olinda, while no particular church merits a special trip, the ensemble of 300- and 400-year-old architecture makes for a memorable stroll. If your time is limited, head first for Olinda, making sure to go up to the Igreja da Sé for the best views.
Downtown Recife has a number of interesting monuments and buildings to see; the Zero Marker makes a fine starting point. From there it's a nice stroll through restored Old Recife (make sure to walk down Rua do Bom Jesus and take a peek from the Malakoff Tower). Then cross the bridge to Santo Antônio; the commercial heart of Recife is as packed with vendors and food stands as any Asian market. Staying in Boa Viagem makes it easy to fit in a morning swim and stroll on the beach. If you need more sand time than that, remember that small, laid-back Porto de Galinhas boasts one of the finest beaches in the Northeast.
The Passion Play at Nova Jerusalem -- If you're in the Recife area in the 10 days leading up to Easter, don't miss the passion play in Nova Jerusalem, Fazenda Nova. More than 500 actors and extras assemble on nine different stages to act out the last days in the life of Christ. The specially built theater is massive -- the size of 12 football fields, with tall towers and thick walls resembling old Jerusalem. The play's been going since 1968, but in recent years it's become much more popular; well-known actors and actresses now take the coveted roles of Jesus, Mary, Pontius Pilate, and Judas. What makes it worth the trip to Fazenda Nova, 190km (118 miles) from Recife, is the street fair and festival that accompanies the play. Performances start on the Saturday of the week before Easter. Good Friday and Hallelujah Saturday (the day before Easter) are the most popular nights. Up to 8,000 people make the trip out to Nova Jerusalem each night. Tickets cost R$30 to R$40. Performances start at 6pm and finish at 9pm. For up-to-date info on actors and starts, see the play website: www.novajerusalem.com.br. For day tours, contact Luck Viagens (tel. 081/3302-6222; www.luckviagens.com.br; R$75 for tour and ticket), or Caravana Turismo (tel. 081/3221-1623; R$65 for day trip plus ticket).
Where to Find the Most Spectacular Views -- No one should miss the view from the front steps of the Igreja da Sé in Olinda. Look out over the red-tile roofs and church towers of the old Portuguese city, the white sand, and bright blue of beach and sea. In Old Recife it's worth taking the elevator to the top of the restored Malakoff Tower, an old astronomical observatory on Praça Artur Oscar. It's only four stories high, but the view of the low-rise old city is still good. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 3 to 8pm; free admission.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
