Planning a trip to Rhodes
During the high season only, you'll find a helpful Rhodes Municipal Tourist Office at Plateia Rimini, facing the port taxi stand (tel. 22410/35-945). It dispenses information on local excursions, buses, ferries, and accommodations, and offers currency exchange as well. Its hours are Monday through Saturday from about 9am to 9pm, Sunday from 9am to 2pm. The above-recommended Triton Holidays is also willing to answer any traveler's question, free of obligation, and is sometimes open when the tourist offices are closed.
City Layout -- Rhodes is not the worst offender in Greece, but it does share the country's widespread aversion to street signs and numbers. This means that you need a map marked with every lane, so that you can count your way from one place to another. My favorite is the map of Rhodes Town (Old and New) drawn by Mario Camerini; no longer widely available, I found it recently at a gift shop at 65 Socratous.
Rhodes city (pop. 50,000) is divided into two sections: the Old Town, dating from medieval days, and the New Town. Overlooking the harbor, the Old Town is surrounded by massive walls -- 4km (2 1/2 miles) around and, in certain places, nearly 12m (40 ft.) thick -- built by the Knights of St. John. The New Town embraces the old one and extends south to meet the Rhodian Riviera, a strip of luxury resort hotels. At its northern tip is the city beach, in the area called 100 Palms, and famed Mandraki Harbor, now used as a mooring for private yachts and tour boats.
Fast Facts
Numerous banks in the New Town will exchange currencies as will commercial exchange offices, but most everyone relies on the ATMs to be found not only on the banks' exteriors but at other locations frequented by tourists. For emergency care, call the hospital (tel. 22410/80-000) or an ambulance (tel. 166).
Internet cafes and Wi-Fi cafes are now found everywhere throughout Rhodes Town and there is no sense in singling out one over another: select the place that is most convenient at the time you need one -- and of course you must purchase at least some beverage. International Pharmacy, 22 A. Kiakou in the New Town (tel. 22410/75-331), is now but one of many pharmacies throughout the Old and New Towns. There are public toilets at 2 Papagou and across from 10 Papagou (the street leading up from Plateia Rimini); there is also one just outside the wall at the Marine Gate, by the Old Harbor. The police (tel. 22410/23-849) in the Old Town can handle any complaints from 10am to midnight. The tourist police (tel. 22410/27-423), on the edge of the Old Town, near the port, address tourists' queries, concerns, and grievances. The main post office, on Mandraki Harbor, is open Monday through Friday from 7am to 8pm.
Getting There
By Plane
In addition to its year-round service between Rhodes and Athens and Thessaloniki, Olympic Airways offers summer service between Rhodes and the following Greek locales: Iraklion (Crete), Karpathos, and Santorini. The local Olympic office is at 9 Ierou Lohou (tel. 22410/24-57). Flights fill quickly, so reserve in advance. Aegean Airlines (tel. 801/112-0000 in Greece; www.aegeanair.com), in addition to flights to Rhodes, offers at least high-season flights between Rhodes and Thessaloniki and Iraklion, Crete. Tickets for any flight in or out of Rhodes can be purchased directly from Triton Holidays, near Mandraki Harbor, 9 Plastira, Rhodes city (tel. 22410/21-690; www.tritondmc.gr). Triton will either send your tickets to you or have them waiting for you at the airport.
The Rhodes Paradissi Airport (tel. 22410/83-214) is 13km (8 miles) southwest of the city and is served from 6am to 10:30pm by bus. The bus to the city center (Plateia Rimini) is 6€. A taxi costs 22€. By the way, some taxi drivers resist taking passengers to hotels in the Old Town (because of the slow going in the old streets) -- they will even claim they can't enter; note their number and threaten to report them, and they will usually relent. Otherwise, make arrangements with your hotel to be met at one of the main gates.
By Boat
Rhodes is a major port with sea links to Athens, Crete, and the islands of the Aegean, as well as to Cyprus, Turkey, and Israel. Service and schedules are always changing; check with the tourist office or a travel agency for the latest information.
In late spring and throughout the summer, there are daily sailings -- some with high-speed hydrofoils or catamarans -- from and to Rhodes and many of the Dodecanense and other islands in the eastern Aegean: Kos, Kalimnos, Kastellorizo, Leros, Nissiros, Patmos, Samos, Simi, and Tilos. The advantage of hydrofoils and catamarans is that they make the voyage in half the time, but when the wind blows, the sailings are canceled. Air quality is also poor, especially compared to that on larger open-deck excursion boats or ferries. For more detailed information about the most active ship line, Dodekanisos Seaways, see www.12ne.gr.
Wherever it is you want to go, whether by ferry, hydrofoil, catamaran, or excursion boat, schedules and tickets are available from Triton Holidays . Although several agents in Rhodes city and island can issue air and sea tickets, Triton has had a "special relationship" with Frommer's people from the original "$5 a Day" guide!
Tips for Travelers with Disabilities
The Dodecanese Association for People with Special Needs (tel. 22410/73-109; cellphone 6940/463810) provides free minibus door-to-door service from the port, airport, and hotels -- or even if you want to go out for coffee or a swim.
Getting Around
Rhodes is not an island you can see on foot. You need wheels of some sort: public bus, group-shared taxi, rental car, or organized bus tour for around-the-island excursions. Rhodes city is a different story. Walking is the only and most pleasurable mode of transport; you'll need a taxi only if you're going to treat yourself to a meal at one of the farther-flung restaurants. The fact is that even taxis are not allowed within the walls unless you have luggage and are arriving or leaving.
By Bus
Public buses provide good service throughout the island; the tourist office should be able to help with a schedule of routes and times. Buses to points east (except for the eastern coastal road as far as Falilraki) leave from the East Side Bus Station on Plateia Rimini, whereas buses to points west, including the airport, leave from the nearby West Side Bus Station on Averof. Buses for the eastern coastal road as far as Falilraki also leave from the West Side Bus Station. Island fares range from 1€ within the city to 20€ for the most remote destinations. The city bus system also offers six different tours; details are available from the tourist office.
By Bicycle, Moped & Motorcycle
Even where there are strips set aside for bicyclists, it can be risky cycling on Greek highways. You must have a proper license to rent anything motorized. We can recommend several outfits that rent motorbikes and bicycles: Bicycle Center, 39 Griva (tel. 22410/28-315); Mike's Motor Club, 23 Kazouli (tel. 22410/37-420); and Moto Pilot, 12 Kritis (tel. 22410/32-285). Starting prices per day are roughly 15€ for a mountain bike, from 25€ for a moped, and 40€ to 70€ for a motorcycle.
By Taxi
In Rhodes city, the largest of many taxi stands is in front of Old Town, on the harborfront in Plateia Rimini (tel. 22410/27-666). There, posted for all to see, are the set fares for one-way trips throughout the island. (A sample fare to Lindos is 40€ one way; add at least another 20€ if the taxi waits for you.) Since many of the cabdrivers speak sightseer English, a few friends can be chauffeured and lectured at a reasonable cost. Taxis are metered, but fares should not exceed the minimum on short round-the-city jaunts. For longer trips, negotiate directly with the drivers. (I found Semis Limo Service to be reliable and friendly: semispa@yahoo.gr.) Better yet, Triton Holidays , at no extra charge, will arrange for a private full- or half-day taxi with a driver who not only speaks fluent English, but will also respect your wishes regarding smoking or nonsmoking en route. For radio taxis, call tel. 22410/69-800. There is a slight additional pickup charge when you call for a taxi.
By Car
Triton Holidays agency can arrange for car rentals, both at the airport or in town. Apart from the array of international companies -- among them Alamo/National (tel. 22410/73-570), Avis (tel. 22410/82-896), Europcar (tel. 22410/21-958), and Hertz (tel. 22410/21-819) -- there are large numbers of local companies. The latter may offer the lowest rates but have only a handful of cars, so they may be unable to back you up, in the event of an accident. Be certain that you are fully covered, for all minor scrapes as well as major accidents, before signing anything. An established Greek company, with some 300 cars -- reputedly the newest fleet on Rhodes -- is DRIVE Rent-a-Car, now part of the Budget chain (tel. 22410/21-690; www.driverentacar.gr). It has an excellent reputation for personal service, as well as low prices from about 40€ per day, depending on the season and demand. Keep in mind that some of the more remote roads on Rhodes require all-terrain vehicles, and Rhodian rental-car companies usually stipulate that their standard vehicles be driven only on fully paved roads.
By Organized Tour & Excursion Boats
Several operators feature nature, archaeology, shopping, and beach tours. In Rhodes city, Triton Holidays, as one of the largest and most reliable agencies, specializes in trips designed for independent travelers. Triton offers day and evening cruises, hiking tours, and excursions in Rhodes, as well as in the other Dodecanese islands and in Mamaris in Turkey. We recommend the full-day guided tours, either the one to Lindos (50€) or the "Island Tour" (60€), which takes you to small villages, churches, and monasteries, and includes lunch in the village of Embonas, known for its local wines and fresh-grilled meat. There is also a fascinating half-day guided tour to Filerimos Monastery, Valley of the Butterflies, and the ancient city of Kamiros for 50€. Along Mandraki Harbor, you can find excursion boats that leave for Lindos at 9am and return around 6pm, costing about 50€, as well as daily excursions to Simi for 64€ round-trip. For an in-depth island experience, Triton Holidays also offers a combination package of car-rental and hotel accommodations in four small villages around the island (Kalavarda, Monolithos, Prasonisi, and Asklepion), ranging from 4 to 10 nights.
