Driving Tours in Rias Altas
A Scenic Road Trip
Rías Altas is a modern name applied to all the estuaries on the northern Galician coast. Comparable to Norwegian fjords, these tidal inlets were cut into the rocky Galician coastline by the turbulent Atlantic Ocean pounding against its shores. The clifftop roads hug the coastline, with steep drop-offs to the sea below, but give panoramic views. If your nerve fails, default to the adjacent coastal highway.
From A Coruña, head south, then east on AP-9 to pick up N-651 to Puentedeume (also spelled Pontedeume), on the Rías Ares. Historically, it was the center of the Counts of Andrade. The remains of their 14th-century palace can be seen, along with the ruins of a 13th-century castle, rising to the east.
Continue north on N-651 to O Ferrol (El Ferrol in Castilian), which used to be called El Caudillo in honor of dictator Francisco Franco, who was born here. O Ferrol is one of the major shipbuilding centers of Spain, and since the 18th century has been a center of the Spanish navy. It’s a gritty town, but it lies on one of the region’s most beautiful rías. Few tourists linger at O Ferrol.
Consider taking a side trip along C-642 south, passing through the small town of Puentedeume (also spelled Pontedeume), on the Rías Ares. Historically, it was the center of the counts of Andrade.
Or follow AC-862 to Ortigueira, a major fishing village at the head of the ría (estuary) from which it takes its name. Driving on, you’ll notice the coastline becoming more saw-toothed as you approach Vicedo.
Next, you will enter the historic village of Viveiro. Part of its medieval walls and an old gate, Puerta de Carlos V, have been preserved. The town has many old churches of interest, including the Gothic-style Iglesia San Francisco. Please keep in mind that while corniche roads are sinuous and panoramic, they are often located high above the major roads and have steep, usually dangerous drop-offs on the other side. Viveiro is a summer resort, attracting vacationers to its beach, Playa Covas. A great place to stop for seafood here is RestauranteNito, in the Hotel Ego, Playa de Area, 1 (tel. 98-256-09-87).
The coastal highway (N-642) will take you through Burela, another fishing village. You can make a slight detour south to Sargadelos, a ceramics center. You can purchase the famous Galician pottery here much more cheaply than elsewhere in Spain. Or from here you can take the inland hilltop road east (N-634), signposted to the Iglesia de San Martín de Mondoñeda, part of a monastery that dates from 1112. It stands in splendid isolation atop a hill. From there, road signs will point you down to the little town of Foz, a fishing village and summer resort with beaches separated by a cliff. From here, pick up A-8 west for the 1.5-hour inland drive back to A Coruña. A potential side trip: The road continues northwest to Vicedo, passing such beaches as Xillo and Aerealong. Excellent vistas greet you, and oxen can be seen plowing the cornfields.
A Road Trip Along the Coast of Death
A drive along the "Coast of Death"For the ancients, Cabo Fisterra was the end of the world as they knew it. This 145km (90-mile) coastal drive winds along some of the most majestic and rugged coastline in Spain. It carries the ominous nickname of A Costa da Morte (the Coast of Death; in Castilian, La Costa de la Muerte) because so many ships have wrecked on its shores.
Leaving A Coruña, take either Hwy. 552 or the faster limited-access AG-55 west for about half an hour, heading to the highway crossroads of Carballo. From this little town, many of the small coastal harbors are within an easy drive. Malpica to the northwest on AC-418, is the most interesting, with its own beach and offshore seabird sanctuary. From Malpica, continue southwest along the coastal route to the sheltered fishing village of Corme at Punta Roncudo. It has lovely beaches backed by sand dunes.
From Corme, continue along winding roads (AC-429/433/432) to the whitewashed village of Camariñas (its light house is pictured above) which stands on the ría of the same name. Camariñas is known as a village of expert lace makers; you’ll see their work for sale in many shops. You can see historic lacework at the Museo do Encaixe, Praza Insuela, s/n (tel. 98-173-63-40; 2€). You may also want to take a 10-minute drive north on local roads to a lighthouse at Cabo Vilán, which has a small museum attached (1€).
You’ll need to circle inland a bit now. Return to A Ponte do Porto and take CP-1603 south to A-440, which leads back to the coast at Muxia (shown on some maps as Mugia). A half-hour drive on DP-5201 takes you from there to the lighthouse at Cabo Touriñan, Spain’s westernmost point. Continue south along clearly marked coastal roads, sometimes perched precariously on cliff tops overlooking the sea. They will lead you to Corcubión, a village with a Romanesque church. From here, follow signs along a lonely southbound secondary road to the end of the line, Cabo Fisterra. This rocky promontory topped by a lighthouse offers a breathtaking panoramic view—sunsets here are among the most spectacular in the world. The Roman poet Horace said it best: "The brilliant skylight of the sun drags behind it the black night over the fruitful breasts of earth." The bronze hiking boot mounted near the lighthouse commemorates the fact that diehard Santiago pilgrims continue walking from the cathedral to this distant westward point.