Planning a trip to Rio de Janeiro

Neighborhoods in Brief

Mountains and ocean are ever present in Rio. The city has essentially squeezed itself into any available space on the tiny littoral between the two. The city is traditionally divided into four zones: North (Zona Norte), Center (Centro), West (Zona Oeste), and South (Zona Sul).

Zona Norte -- Largest and least interesting from a visitor's perspective, the Zona Norte stretches from a few blocks north of Avenida Presidente Vargas all the way to the city limits. With only a few bright exceptions -- the Maracanã stadium, the Quinta da Boa Vista gardens, the Floresta da Tijuca park, and Galeão Airport -- the region is a dull swath of port, residential high-rise, industrial suburb, and favela. It's not the sort of place one should wander unaccompanied.

Zona Oeste -- The Zona Oeste houses some of the poorest and richest neighborhoods of the city. Inland on one side of a wide lagoon there's Cidade de Deus -- featured in the movie City of God -- a huge low-income housing project built in the 1960s to relocate people from downtown slums out to what was then the far edge of the city. On the waterfront are the seaside condominium enclaves Barra da Tijuca and Recreio. Beyond Recreio is Grumari, a pristine beach on the city's outskirts.

Centro -- Rio's Centro neighborhood, the oldest part of the city, is where you'll find most of the city's notable churches, squares, monuments, and museums, as well as the modern office towers where Rio's white-collar elite earn their daily bread. Roughly speaking, Centro stretches from the São Bento Monastery in the north to the seaside Monument to the Dead of World War II in the south, and from Praça XV on the waterfront east to the Sambodromo (near Praça XI). Bustling with life during the week, on weekends and particularly Sundays, this area becomes very deserted, and a little too spooky to warrant a visit.

Zona Sul -- the Bay -- Just to the south of Centro lies the fun and slightly bohemian hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa, and then one after the other the neighborhoods of Glória, Catete, and Flamengo. These last three were the fashionable sections of the city around the start of the 20th century, located as they were on flat ground by the edge of Guanabara Bay. Other neighborhoods in this section include Botafogo and Urca (nestled beneath the Sugarloaf), and in the narrow valley behind Flamengo the two residential neighborhoods of Laranjeiras and Cosme Velho. Today they're all still pleasant and walkable -- Botafogo was more commercial, but has been undergoing a residential boom over the past few years; Catete and Flamengo contain a number of historic buildings -- but their bloom faded in the 1920s when engineers cut a tunnel through the mountainside to Copacabana.

Zona Sul -- the Beaches -- Then, as now, the big attraction was the ocean. Where Centro and Flamengo sit on Guanabara Bay, Copacabana, Ipanema, São Conrado, and Barra de Tijuca face the open Atlantic. The waves are bigger, the water cleaner, and the beaches more inviting. First to be developed, Copacabana officially covers only the lower two-thirds of the beach. The northern third (the bit closest to Urca, farthest from Ipanema) is known as Leme. Taking a 90-degree turn around a low headland, one comes to Ipanema. Like Copacabana, Ipanema is a modern neighborhood, consisting almost exclusively of high-rise apartments from the '60s and '70s. Here, too, the same stretch of beach is considered to be two neighborhoods: Ipanema sits next to Copacabana, while the area at the far end of the beach is known as Leblon. Again, the two ends of the beach are nearly indistinguishable, though Leblon has a few more restaurants. Behind Ipanema there's a lagoon, the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, which is circled by a pleasant 8.5km (5 1/4-mile) walking/cycling trail. At its north end, farthest from the beach, stand the two quiet residential neighborhoods of Lagoa and Jardim Botânico, the latter named for the extensive botanical gardens around which the area grew.

At the far end of Ipanema stands a tall sheer double-pointed rock called the Pedra Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers Rock). The road carries on, winding around the cliff face to reach the tiny enclave of São Conrado. One of the better surfing beaches, this is also where the hang gliders like to land after swooping down from the 830m (2,700-ft.) Pedra de Gâvea.

At night, the wide beaches are dark and mostly deserted; if you're in the mood for a moonlit stroll, stick to the brightly lit and police-patrolled pedestrian walkway that parallels the beach.

Beyond the Beaches -- Beyond São Conrado, the road goes up on stilts to sneak beneath the cliffs until reaching Barra da Tijuca. More like Miami Beach than Rio, Barra -- as it's usually called -- is a land of big streets, big malls, big cars, and big condominium towers.

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

Rio may seem like a large and sprawling city, but the neighborhoods in which visitors spend most of their time are very easy to get around in. From Centro south to São Conrado, the neighborhoods hang like beads on a string on the narrow strip of land between the ocean and the mountains. You can almost always see one or the other; with landmarks like these it's pretty hard to stray too far from where you want to go.

By Metrô -- The easiest way to get around is by subway; in Centro and the Zona Sul it covers almost every major area of interest, particularly now that there are integrated bus/subway lines for the parts of the city where the Metrô has not yet reached. There are only two lines: Line 1 goes north from downtown -- it's useful for going to the Maracanã and the Quinta da Boa Vista -- while Line 2 begins at the Central Station and goes south, covering most of Centro, then swinging thorough Glória, Catete, Flamengo, and Botafogo before ducking through the mountain to its final destination in Ipanema. The trip takes about 20 minutes to move you from Centro to Copacabana (as compared to a 40-60-min. bus ride in rush hour). The system is very safe and efficient. You purchase a magnetic ticket card at the entrance of the station, either from a machine or from a ticket booth. You can buy a single ride card (R$2.80), or opt for a rechargeable magnetic card, to which you then add value, which gets deducted when you swipe the card passing through the turnstile. There is no charge for the magnetic card, but the minimum recharge value is R$10.

The subway system recently expanded its integrated Metrô/bus service, and now has new air-conditioned buses feeding into the Metrô system from all parts of the city. The more popular routes include: Metrô/Ipanema (to Ipanema; transfer at Siqueira Campos); Metrô/Gavea or Barra (to Leblon and Gavea or Barra; transfer at Siqueira Campos); Metrô/Rodoviaria (to the main bus terminal; transfer at Largo do Machado); Metrô-Urca (to the Sugarloaf; transfer at Botafogo); and Metrô-Cosme Velho (to the Corcovado; transfer at Largo do Machado). The price is R$3.60, cheaper than paying separately for the Metrô and bus. After you use the electronic ticket to enter the subway turnstile, the ticket is returned so that you can present it on the bus at the transfer station.

Know the Subway Hours -- The Metrô operates Monday through Saturday from 5am to midnight. On Sundays and statutory holidays the Metrô runs from 7am to 11pm. Special schedules apply during New Year's and Carnaval when trains will run all night.

By Bus -- Rio's buses follow direct, logical pathways, sticking to the main streets along much the same route you'd take if you were driving. What's more, they're fast. Indeed, it's a good idea to wedge yourself in your seat; Rio drivers like to lean into the turns.

More than 30 different buses run from Centro to Copacabana alone. Figuring out which to take is straightforward. The route number and final destination are displayed in big letters on the front of the bus. Smaller signs displayed inside the front window (usually below and to the left of the driver) and posted on the side of the bus list the intermediate stops. Armed with that information and a map, it's fairly uncomplicated to figure out which route the bus will take and how close you will get to your destination. A bus going from Praça XV in Centro out to Copacabana, for example, would show COPACABANA as the final destination, and on the smaller sign list intermediate destinations such as CINELANDIA, GLORIA, LARGO DO MACHADO (in Flamengo), and RIO SUL (the big mall in Botafogo). Tip: If you're going from Ipanema or Copacabana all the way to Centro (or vice versa), look for a bus that says VIA ATERRO in its smaller window sign. These buses get on the waterfront boulevard in Botafogo and don't stop until they reach downtown.

Buses only stop if someone wants to board. If you see your bus coming, wave your hand at the driver. Most buses are boarded from the front and exited from the rear. Have your bus money ready -- R$2.50 to R$3.50 -- as you will go through a turnstile right away. You pay for each ride; there are no transfers. Buses are safe during the day; just watch for pickpockets when it gets busy. In the evening, when fewer passengers ride, it is better to take a taxi.

By Taxi

Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. They're the perfect way to reach those out-of-the-way places and the best way to get around in the evening. Regular taxis can be hailed anywhere on the street. You will also find taxi stands throughout the city. A ride from Copacabana to Praça XV in Centro costs about R$25 to R$30; a ride from the main bus station to Leblon is about R$35, R$40 in traffic. Radio taxis are about 20% more expensive, often work with a set fee per destination, and can be contacted by phone; try Coopertramo (tel. 021/2209-9292) or TransCoopass (tel. 021/2209-1555). Most hotels work with radio taxis so if you don't want to pay extra just walk to the corner and hail your own regular taxi. Radio taxis are said to be more reliable (and they have air-conditioning as well), but -- aside from at the airport -- we've never had a problem with any regular taxi.

By Van

When you see the chaotic bus-ridden streets of Rio de Janeiro, it's hard to believe that there could be a shortage of buses. However, in the last few years the city has seen an explosion of additional bus services provided by Volkswagen vans and microbuses. Some of these vans are licensed, many more remain officially illegal. Fares range from R$2 to R$4.50 and quality ranges from downright scary to clean, modern vehicles. Those that circulate along the Zona Sul waterfront and farther out to Barra da Tijuca are generally quick and efficient. Vans can be hailed anywhere and will let you off anywhere on their route.

By Ferry

Rio has a number of ferries operated by Barcas SA (tel. 0800/704-4113; www.barcas-sa.com.br), departing from Praça XV downtown. The busiest routes link downtown Rio with downtown Niterói or Charitas (also in Niterói) across the bay -- also reached by car and bus by crossing the 14km (8 1/2-mile) bridge. The service to Niterói runs daily from 6am to 11:30pm; to Charitas the service is Monday to Friday 6:50am to 9pm; departures on both routes run at approximately half-hour intervals. On the Niterói route, the cheapest ferry (R$2.80) is the regular one, taking about 25 minutes to cross. The catamaran and aerobarco, a hydrofoil, cross the same route in less than 10 minutes and cost R$5. The Charitas ferry costs R$8. A popular ferry for tourists as well as Cariocas on the weekend is the route to Paquetá, a large car-free island in the Baia da Guanabara. The ferries to Paquetá depart Rio at 5:15, 7:10, 10:30am, 1:30, 3:30, 4, 7, 9, and 11pm; the fare is R$4.50.

By Car

A car is not required for exploring Rio; a combination of public transit (in the daytime and evening) and taxis (late at night) gets you pretty much anywhere in the city for very little money.

The truth is, driving in Rio is not for the weak of heart. Traffic is hectic, street patterns confusing, drivers just a few shades shy of courteous, and parking next to nonexistent. Better to get used to the city traffic as a pedestrian first and rent a car only if you're going out to destinations such as Petrópolis and the historic towns of the Minas Gerais region.

Special Driving Rules -- The rule is, there are no rules. Okay, maybe we're exaggerating. Traffic has improved immensely in recent years since police began using photo-radars. People now wear seat belts and stop at red lights during the day. However, Cariocas still drive aggressively. Lane dividers are either absent or ignored. Any space larger than 10 centimeters (4 in.) between your car and the one in front will be instantly occupied by another driver. Later at night red lights become optional. Be careful when approaching intersections.

Getting There

By Plane

Galeão Airport -- Most major airlines fly to Rio de Janeiro, sometimes with a stop or connection in São Paulo. International passengers arrive at Antônio Carlos Jobim Airport (tel. 021/3398-5050), more commonly known as Galeão Airport, 20km (12 miles) from downtown.

On the third floor of Terminal 1 is a Banco do Brasil office (daily 8am-10pm), as well as ATMs of HSBC and Banco 24 Horas, both of which use the Visa/PLUS system. The American Express office (daily 6:30am-10pm) is in the second floor departure area of Terminal 1.

Taxis at Galeão are a challenge. Drivers will start to hassle you the minute you step through the sliding doors. The safer but more expensive bet is to buy a prepaid fare at the TransCoopass desk in the arrivals hall (tel. 021/2209-1555; www.transcoopass.com.br; all major credit cards accepted). Rates range from R$60 to Flamengo, and R$70 to R$80 to the beach hotels of Copacabana and Ipanema. These prepaid taxis are about 40% more expensive, but give you peace of mind; it doesn't matter if you get stuck in traffic or the driver takes the long route. On the other hand, if you know what you're doing (or can bluff), you can cut those prices significantly just by hailing a regular taxi out in front of the terminal. A ride to Copacabana should cost about R$45 in average traffic conditions. Note that if you don't know what you're doing, your friendly Rio taxi man may well take you on a detour long enough to double that price, or even claim the meter reads in dollars.

Gray Line (tel. 021/2512-9919; www.grayline.com) offers a minibus transfer service from Galeão to the hotels of the Zona Sul or Barra. Cost is US$21 (payable in advance online or the equivalent in Reals to the bus driver) one-way, with one bag free, extra bags R$5 (payable to the bus driver). Buses depart daily once an hour from 8am to 7pm. You meet the uniformed Gray Line driver by the RioTur booth in either Terminal 1 or Terminal 2. Transfers can be booked in advance on the Internet.

Santos Dumont Airport -- Rio's second airport, Santos Dumont, Praça Senador Salgado Filho (tel. 021/3814-7070), is downtown, surrounded by the Baia de Guanabara. Most Brazilian airlines now use Santos Dumont for domestic flights. These airlines include TAM (tel. 021/4002-5700; www.tam.com.br), Gol (tel. 0300/115-2121; www.voegol.com.br), Azul (tel. 021/3003-2985; www.voeazul.com.br), Webjet (tel. 0300/210-1234; www.webjet.com.br), TRIP (tel. 021/3003-8747; www.voetrip.com.br), and Ocean Air (tel. 0300/789-8160; www.oceanair.com.br).

Taxis from Santos Dumont are less of a problem. Prepaid taxis are available from the TransCoopass (tel. 021/2209-1555; www.transcoopass.com.br) booth in the arrivals hall. The prepaid service costs about double what a metered taxi will cost. Better just to hail a cab from the taxi row in front of the terminal. Airport cabs are about 20% more expensive than a normal taxis (not officially, but almost universally so in practice), but distances from Santos Dumont are short enough that this won't make a huge difference. A metered taxi to Ipanema should cost around R$30.

A variety of bank machines, including a Banco do Brasil and HSBC, are located at the center entrance of the airport.

By Bus

All long-distance buses arrive at the Novo Rio Rodoviaria, Av. Francisco Bicalho 1, Santo Cristo (tel. 021/3213-1800; www.novorio.com.br), close to downtown near the old port. It's best to use a taxi traveling to or from the station. It's not the best part of town, particularly with all your bags. Prepaid taxi vouchers are available at the booth next to the taxi stand. A ride from the bus station to Ipanema costs about R$40.

By Cruise Ship

Cruise ships dock in the terminal almost opposite Praça Mauá. Downtown is an easy walk, and public transit is close by. If returning to the ship after dark, it's best to take a taxi. Praça Mauá becomes a somewhat seedy red-light district in the evening.

Special Events

Reveillon: New Year's Eve in Rio --  Trust Brazilians to throw a party where everyone is welcome and admission is free. At Rio's annual New Year's Eve extravaganza, millions pack the beach for an all-night festival of music, food, and fun, punctuated by spectacular fireworks. Arrive early and enjoy a New Year's buffet at one of the scores of restaurants or hotels along the beachfront Avenida Atlântica. Music kicks off at 8pm, as people make their way down to the beach until every square inch of sand is packed. By midnight, more than two million have joined the countdown. As the clock strikes midnight, the fireworks begin. Barges moored off Copacabana beach flood the sky with a shower of reds, greens, yellows, and golds. When the last whistling spark falls into the sea, bands fire up their instruments and welcome in the new year with a concert that goes on until wee hours. Many stay all night and grab a spot on the sand when they tire. The event is perfectly safe. During the party, followers of the Afro-Brazilian religion Candomblé mark Reveillon in their own way. New Year's Eve is an important moment in Candomblé, a time when followers make offerings to the sea goddess Yemanjá. Along the beach circles of women dressed all in white light candles and prepare small boats loaded with flowers, mirrors, trinkets, and perfumes. They launch the boats into the surf in hopes of obtaining Yemanjá's favor for the year to come. Cariocas traditionally wear white on New Year's Eve; it's the color of peace and the color worn by devotees of Candomblé to honor Yemanjá. Don a pair of white shorts and a T-shirt, but don't forget your swimsuit. The traditional New Year's Eve "polar bear swim" will be even more tempting when the temperature is a balmy 40°C (105°F). Many Cariocas will also buy flowers to take to the beach and offer these to Yemanjá by tossing them in the ocean. The best way to get to the event is by subway (buy tickets in advance to avoid lines). Most streets in Copacabana are closed to traffic; parking anywhere near the beach is impossible. The Rio newspaper O Globo (www.oglobo.com) normally publishes a full schedule in early December. You can also contact Alô Rio at tel. 021/2542-8080 or 0800/707-1888.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The area code for Rio de Janeiro is 021.

Banks & Currency Exchange -- Banco do Brasil has branches at Rua Joana Angelica, Ipanema (tel. 021/3544-9700), Av. N.S. de Copacabana 594, Copacabana (tel. 021/3816-5800), and international airport, Terminal 1, third floor (tel. 021/3398-3652); all have 24-hour ATMs. For currency exchange, try Casa Aliança Cambio, Rua Miguel Couto 35, Centro (tel. 021/2224-4617); Citibank, Rua da Assambleia 100, Centro (tel. 021/4009-8229); and Casa Universal Cambio, Av. N.S. Copacabana 371, loja E, Copacabana (tel. 021/2548-6696).

Car Rentals -- Antônio Carlos Jobim International Airport has Hertz (tel. 021/3398-2379), Localiza (tel. 021/3398-5445), and Unidas (tel. 021/3398-2286). Santos Dumont Airport has Hertz (tel. 021/2262-0612), Localiza (tel. 021/2220-5455), and Unidas (tel. 021/2240-6715). Copacabana has Hertz, Av. Princesa Isabel 500 (tel. 021/2275-7440), Localiza, Av. Princesa Isabel 150 (tel. 021/2275-3340), and Unidas, Av. Princesa Isabel 166 (tel. 021/3873-2521). Rates start at R$100 per day for a compact car with air-conditioning. Insurance adds R$30 per day.

Consulates Australia, Av. Presidente Wilson 231, Ste. 23, Centro (tel. 021/3824-4624). Canada, Av. Atlântica 1130, fifth floor, Copacabana (tel. 21/2543-3004). Great Britain, Praia do Flamengo 284, second floor, Flamengo (tel. 021/2555-9600). U.S., Av. Presidente Wilson 147, Centro (tel. 021/3823-2000).

Dentist -- Sorriclin, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 207/209, Ipanema (tel. 021/2522-1220).

Doctor -- Clinica Galdino Campos, Av. N.S. de Copacabana 492, Copacabana (tel. 021/2548-9966; www.clinicagaldinocampos.com.br), offers 24-hour service, including house calls. English spoken. Ask your hotel for further recommendations, as they may have an arrangement with a doctor nearby.

Emergencies -- Police tel. 190; fire and ambulance tel. 193; tourist police, Av. Afrânio de Melo Franco 159, Leblon (contact line tel. 021/2332-2924 or 2332-2885 or 2332-2889).

Hospitals -- Public hospital emergency rooms can be found at Miguel Couto, Rua Bartolemeu Mitre 1108, Leblon (tel. 021/3111-3800), or at Souza Aguiar, Praça da Republica 111, Centro (tel. 021/3111-2600). Private emergency rooms can be found at the Cardio Trauma Ipanema, Rua Farme de Amoedo 86, Ipanema (tel. 021/2525-1900), and at the city's best hospital, Copa D'or, Rua Figueiredo de Magalhães 875, Copacabana (tel. 021/2545-3600).

Internet Access -- Internet cafes or Lan Houses can be found everywhere. There is also free public Wi-Fi on the entire beachfront, from Leme to Leblon.

Mail -- Look for the yellow-and-blue sign saying CORREIOS. Downtown: Av. Rio Branco 156, Centro (tel. 021/2240-8764); Copacabana: Av. N.S. de Copacabana 540, Copacabana (tel. 021/2256-1439); Ipanema: Rua Visconde de Pirajá 452, Ipanema (tel. 021/2567-6197). The international airport also has a post office (tel. 021/3398-7024), open Monday to Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday till 1pm.

Maps -- Riotur (Av. Princesa Isabel 183, Copacabana) has helpful small maps of the main tourist areas.

Newspapers -- Your best bet for international papers is the newsstands along Visconde de Pirajá in Ipanema, and the bookstore Letras e Expressões, Visconde de Pirajá 276, Ipanema (tel. 021/2521-6110). The English-language Rio paper, the Gringo Times (www.thegringotimes.com) is mostly Web-based but has free distribution in some Zona Sul hotels.

Pharmacies -- In Copacabana, City Farma, Rua Toneleiro 153 D (tel. 021/3208-0000), delivers Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm and Sunday 8am to 2pm. All major credit cards accepted. In Ipanema, Drogaria Pacheco, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 265, Ipanema (tel. 021/2287-7686), is open 24 hours.

Safety -- Rio retains a somewhat unsavory reputation for street violence, though things have improved significantly since their nadir in the late 1980s and early 1990s. That said, there are still several things to keep in mind. It's a bad idea to wander unaccompanied into any of the favelas (shantytowns) found in and around the city. In the ritzy areas like the Zona Sul, favelas cling to steep hillsides and ridge tops. It's also best to avoid the city center (Centro) on weekends and holidays when this part of town remains mostly empty, and more than a little eerie. Avoid the beaches at night, which are dark and mostly deserted (stick to the brightly lit and police-patrolled pedestrian walkway that borders the beach). At night, traveling by taxi is recommended -- don't rely on public transportation. Finally, as in any large metropolitan area, it's wise to observe common-sense precautions: Don't flash jewelry and large amounts of cash, and stick to well-lit and well-traveled thoroughfares.

Taxes -- The city of Rio charges a 5% accommodations tax, collected by the hotel operators. This amount will be added to your bill. Hotels may also add a 10% service charge to your bill. There are no taxes on retail items.

Time Zones -- Rio de Janeiro is 3 hours behind GMT. During daylight saving Rio's time difference changes to 2 hours behind GMT.

Visa Renewal -- If you need to extend your visa, go to the Policia Federal at Galeão airport (top floor Terminal 1) (tel. 021/3398-3897), open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm. The fee is R$75, and you may need to show evidence of sufficient funds for your stay and a return ticket.

Weather -- Rio's summers, from December to March, are hot and humid. Temperatures rise routinely above 40°C (105°F). In the spring and fall, the temperatures stay between the high 20s to low 30s Celsius (high 70s and low 90s Fahrenheit). In the winter, June to August, it can cool off at night to as low as 15°C (59°F), but during the day temperatures range from the 20s Celsius (70s to the mid-80s Fahrenheit). Rain falls in the summer in short, intense tropical showers, and in the winter in longer drizzly showers.