Paris has its cafés, London has its pubs, and Rio has the boteco or botequim. A simple hole-in-the-wall with tile walls, a large counter, and a few tables, where you can show up in your flip-flops and casual wear, meet friends, and chat with locals while quaffing ice-cold beer.  Cariocas love their botecos: after the beach, after work, before going out or as a destination in itself. There is even a yearly competition to choose the best botequim and best botequim food, those hearty savory snacks that line your stomach for plenty of beer. One of the regular winners is Pavão Azul, run by two Portuguese sisters, Bete and Vera. For the full experience, grab a table on the sidewalk for the best people watching and order a cold chope (draft beer) or cerveja (a large bottle to split among a few people). Make sure you try the bolinhos de bacalhau (deep-fried cod dumpling) or the pastel (a deep-fried flaky dough "pocket" filled with ground beef, cheese or shrimp). Pavão Azul also serves inexpensive meals: the shrimp risotto, rice with broccoli and octopus, and grilled fish with sautéed potatoes are all delicious. The bar has been so successful that the two sisters recently opened another branch across the street, Pavãozinho Azul (Little Peacock), at Rua Barata Ribeiro 348 (at the corner of Rua Hilário de Gouveia).