Orientation -- Roatán sits 56km (35 miles) from La Ceiba on the North Coast of Honduras and smack dab in between Utila and Guanaja. The 64km-long (40-mile) island, no more than 4km wide (2 1/2 miles), has a mountainous center that is covered in lush, green jungle. One main highway zigzags from one end of the island to the other, hitting every major settlement along the way. Coxen Hole, in the center of the island, is home to the majority of the population and is the transportation hub of Roatán.

Visitor Information -- Most of the large hotels, such as the Mayan Princess, have ATMs, and there are a few standalones scattered about in the West End and elsewhere. All other banks can be found in Coxen Hole or French Harbour. You can exchange traveler's checks at BANFAA, located in the airport.

You can find cybercafes and calling centers scattered about the major tourist centers, but these computers tend to be slow. Most hotels now have Wi-Fi or a computer with Internet access for guests to use.

The majority of hospitals can be found in Coxen Hole, although many travelers prefer the small Anthony's Key Medical Clinic (tel. 504/2445-1003) in Sandy Bay.

French Harbour

Visitor Information -- Banco Atlántida (tel. 504/2455-7484; Mon-Fri 9am-4pm and Sat 8:30-11:30am), on the highway at the turnoff to the center, has an ATM and will exchange travelers' checks. The Megaplaza Mall has a few ATMs, as well as lots of international chain stores and restaurants. Also at the turnoff are several gas stations and a cybercafe.

Getting There

By Plane -- While most tourists come from La Ceiba via ferry or flight, an increasing number of international travelers are flying directly into Roatán's Juan Manuel Gálvez International Airport, sometimes called simply Roatán International Airport (RTB; tel. 504/2445-1088). It's 3km (1 3/4 miles) from Coxen Hole on the highway to French Harbour. Delta, American Airlines, and TACA fly here directly between points in the U.S. such as Houston, Newark, Atlanta, and Miami, as well as from San Salvador, El Salvador. If you are flying out of Roatán to an international destination, don't forget you will have to pay the $34 departure tax at the airport.

If you are flying to or from La Ceiba, Tegucigalpa, Utila, or San Pedro Sula, you are limited to domestic airlines. Isleña (tel. 504/2445-1918; www.flyislena.com), Aerolineas Sosa (tel. 504/2445-1154), LAHNSA (tel. 504/2445-0397; www.lanhsa.com), and CM Airlines (tel. 504/234-1886; www.cmairlines.com) all offer daily flights.

Bay Island Airways (tel. 504/2946-5665 in the U.S. or tel. 504/933-6077; www.bayislandairways.com) offers inter-island transport via small seaplanes from the West End, as well as real estate and 15-minute flyover tours. Prices range from L4,180 ($220) for two people to the Cayos Cochinos to L7,220 ($380) for two people to Guanaja. Roatán Air Services (tel. 504/2455-6879; www.roatanair.com), based in Coxen Hole, also runs charter flights to Guanaja, Utila, and the Cayos Cochinos in their 3-passenger Cessna 172 and a 6-passenger Aero Commander 560. Similarly, they'll run aerial photography and real estate tours (L3,040/$160 for 30 min. in the Cessna).

Most tourists will take a taxi from the airport, which should run under L290 ($25) to anywhere on the island. If you walk out of the airport to the highway, you can also catch one of the frequent microbuses or shared taxis (L20-L40/$1-$2 per person) that run during the day.

By Ferry -- Roatán's super ferry, the Galaxy Wave (tel. 504/2445-1798 or 504/2443-4630; www.safewaymaritime.com), zooms passengers from the ferry terminal at Dixon's Cove in Roatán to La Ceiba at 7am and 2pm, and returns at 9:30am and 4:30pm. The price is L524 ($28) each way, and the ferry has room for 360 people and offers A/C rooms, a sun deck, and a small snack shop. It looks like a monster compared to Utila's small ferry and is much more stable; however, folks with weak stomachs might end up feeling sick by the time they step off the ship, particularly during the choppier afternoon trips. From the ferry terminal, you can catch a taxi, rent a car, or catch a bus simply by walking out to the main road.

A catamaran service (tel. 504/3346-2600; vfine@hotmail.com; L1,100/$55) now operates daily for the 3 1/2-hour ride between Roatán and Utila. The 12m (39-ft.) Nina Elisabeth II departs East Harbour in Utila at 6:30am and returns from Roatán's West End at 1pm. Reservations are encouraged.

By Cruise Ship -- At last check, Royal Caribbean, Costa, Voyager, and Norwegian/NCL make port calls at Coxen Hole's Port of Roatán, while Carnival, Ryndam, Spirit, and Princess make port calls at Mahogany Bay.

West End

The West End can be reached by bus from Coxen Hole (L40/$2), a water taxi (L50/$3) from West Bay, or a regular taxi from anywhere on the island. There is a taxi stand near the entrance to the highway where a few cabs (L200/$10 to Coxen Hole) are usually waiting, though if you stick to the colectivo cabs, the ones with other people in them, the prices are 75% less.

Getting Around

By Bus -- During daylight hours, minibuses ply back and forth from one end of the island to the other on Roatán's one main road for a fare of L20 to L40 ($1-$2) per person, depending on how far you travel. Most buses will travel only east or west, from Coxen Hole to one end of the island.

By Car -- Several car-rental agencies have stands at the airport, including Caribbean Rent a Car (tel. 504/2455-6950; www.caribbeanroatan.com) and Avis (tel. 504/3374-8964; www.avis.com). Prices range from L855 to L1,520 ($45-$80) per day.

By Taxi -- Taxi stands are located in every major tourist center, and waiting taxis sit outside most of the island's largest resorts. Prices are relatively high, compared with the mainland. A ride from the airport or Coxen Hole to the West End will run about L300 to L400 ($15-$20). After 6pm, when the buses stop running, fares go up. Colectivo taxis, which pick up other passengers, are a cheaper option and run set routes much like a bus.

By Water Taxi -- Water taxi service runs daily from 9am to 9pm and is a convenient way to get between West End and West Bay. Just flag down a passing boat at any dock and one should stop. The fare is L50 ($3).

By Scooter -- You can rent motorized scooters at stands across the island. Captain Van's Rentals (tel. 504/2403-8751; www.captainvans.com; L740 ($39) per day) on the West End and in West Bay is the most popular and accessible operator for visitors. They'll also rent by the week at a discounted rate.

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