Keiko Suzuki Steinberger started surprising diners in Rockland with her distinctive brand of sushi back in 2006. The mostly self-taught sushi chef (she did a brief stint at Tokyo’s Sushi Academy) relies heavily on the local catch, so expect to find exquisitely plated and unconventional sashimi, maki, and nigiri made with halibut, herring, mackerel, tuna, whelks, or clams. Chef Keiko is a perennial James Beard Foundation semifinalist; more than a decade in, her kitchen staff (all women) are at the top of their game.