Planning a trip to Romania

Getting Around

By Plane

Tarom, the national carrier, operates a timetable of flights between Bucharest and the country's smaller airports; the best deals can only be purchased online (www.tarom.ro). Romania's domestic airports are generally quiet and (with the exception of taxis) hassle-free; you can usually arrive for check-in within 30 minutes of your flight and have plenty of time to spare before takeoff.

By Train

Romania's rail network (CFR) is extensive and quite exhaustive. Trains are relatively comfortable and generally safe, although I've had first-hand experience of luggage being stolen -- keep an eye on your bags at all times, and keep them secured and chained down while sleeping. In many of the newer trains, there is almost no difference between first and second class (except in the price). In the majority of cases, you will be assigned a specific carriage (vagon) and seat (the number beneath the date on your ticket). It's quite possible to plan all rail travel before leaving home, but you'll need considerable patience to deal with the online booking system. Go to the online timetable at www.infofer.ro or go to www.cfr.ro; click on "Train Schedule" to begin searching, bearing in mind that you must enter the Romanian spelling of your departure and destination cities.

CFR's services are categorized by the speed of the journey; the fastest trips are on InterCity (IC) trains; these are the most expensive. Next down the rung are Rapid (R) trains -- slightly more economical but not quite as fast. Avoid Personal (P) trains, which stop at practically every village. While you can book your tickets online, nearly every town and city has a CFR office located in the center, where you can purchase domestic and international tickets in advance. Traditionally, tickets bought at the train station have only been made available 1 hour before the scheduled journey; this bureaucratic tradition seems to be fading, however, with tickets increasingly available several hours ahead of schedule. With the exception of very popular routes -- such as those linking Bucharest with the coast during summer -- it is relatively easy obtain train tickets even minutes before departure. The problem is that ticketing lines can be exasperating, with long waits (many travelers need to make elaborate purchases using state-discounted schemes that require time-consuming paperwork); you are advised to purchase tickets in a timely fashion -- better still, have your hotel do it for you.

In Bucharest, you can make advance train bookings at either the Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR, Str. Domnita Anastasia 10-14 (tel. 021/313-2643), up to an hour before departure, or at Wasteels at Gara du Nord station (tel. 021/317-0369; www.wasteels.ro/en; Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat 8am-2pm), which is good for domestic as well as international trains.

By Bus

The size of the country along with the condition of most Romanian roads makes the thought of traveling overland in a large vehicle nothing short of nightmarish. Some companies run minibus services, but you'll still require a steady disposition.

By Car

You'll need nerves of steel to surrender to Romania's roads and culture of high-speed, aggressive driving; tarmac in some areas is in an unpredictable state of repair, signage is less than desirable, and local drivers are in a terrible hurry. Distances between some destinations, combined with heavy traffic, is another deterrent. You may, however, want to hire a car with a driver in order to get to attractions in some areas; to explore the villages of Maramures and the painted monasteries in Moldavia, for example, this is a necessity, unless you are with an organized tour. If you have car trouble, contact the Automobil Clubul Roman (ACR; tel. 9271), Romania's version of the American Automobile Association.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality is no longer illegal in Romania, thanks largely to pressure from the E.U. to bring human rights practices in line with the rest of Europe. This represents the end of a long battle against nasty discrimination in legislation, but does not solve the problem of an inherently homophobic society. When the first Romanian gay pride march took place in Bucharest in 2005, it was in the face of tremendous, vocal opposition from the church, government, and the police, not to mention the city mayor; while the GayFest 2008 celebration certainly was colorful, it wasn't a showstopper event. Slowly, gay-friendly or exclusively gay clubs are emerging, but this is only in the larger cities; public displays of homosexual affection are not likely to attract a positive response.

Getting There

By Plane

Delta (www.delta.com) is the only carrier offering nonstop flights from the U.S. to Romania; the flight from New York to Bucharest is under 9 hours. A good choice for flights from North America is Austrian Airlines (www.aua.com), which has flights from several U.S. and Canadian hubs, and onward connections to Bucharest, Sibiu, Timisoara, Baia Mare, Cluj, and Iasi. Many national airlines, including Romania's official carrier, Tarom (www.tarom.ro), have direct flights from London and other major western European centers, including Amsterdam (KLM only), Athens, Bologna (Alitalia only), Düsseldorf (Lufthansa only), Frankfurt, Madrid, Milan, Munich, Paris, Rome, Vienna, and Zurich; most flights are under 2 hours. European capitals are connected by air include Budapest, Ljuljana, Prague, Sofia, and Warsaw. Where possible, if you're traveling from North America, Australia, or New Zealand, you should shop around for an airline that offers direct connections from your country of origin through one of the European capitals; many of the bigger airlines have code-share agreements with Tarom, which means that times between connecting flights are reduced. If you're traveling from New York or Sydney, you are able to book your entire journey through Tarom, but departure dates are limited by the availability of partner airlines. If you're shopping around for a low-cost flight from within western Europe or the U.K., try Blue Air (www.blueair-web.com). Another option is Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com), a growing airline specializing in Eastern European destinations.

Most international flights arrive at Bucharest's Henri Coanda International Airport (still known by its pre-2006 name, Otopeni); however, Romania has several other international airports receiving flights from a growing number of European airlines. These airports are small and hassle-free and often their proximity to tourist-friendly destinations makes them a viable alternative for anyone wishing to avoid the capital altogether.

By Train

Trains are viable, but not necessarily cheap or speedy. Romania's National Railway service (www.infofer.ro) links with various international services, many of which include overnight sleepers in first- and second-class carriages. You can visit www.raileurope.com for details of schedules and reservations, but you'll have a much easier time simply making inquiries at a booking office in person.

By Bus

Nevertheless, Romania's principal cities are connected by bus services to most important European centers, including London, Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Berlin, Budapest, Sofia, Vienna, Milan, Istanbul, and Athens.

By Car

If you drive a rental car into Romania, you will require a RoVinieta road toll license; these are available at border crossings, and can also be purchased at many gas stations. You will require proof that you have insurance for the car and you must carry all the vehicle registration documentation with you. Your existing driver's license should be acceptable for driving in Romania. Note that Romanian roads are often in a very dismal condition and driving is not recommended unless you have off-road capability.

Regions in Brief

Romania -- just a bit smaller than the United Kingdom and roughly the size of the state of Oregon -- is situated in the southeastern part of central Europe, and is made up, in roughly equal measures, of lowland, hilly, and mountainous terrain. It borders Hungary and Serbia to the west, Moldova and the Ukraine to the north and east, and Bulgaria to the south, with whom it shares, along with its northern neighbor Ukraine, a slither of Black Sea coastline to the east. Forming much of the border with Bulgaria and Serbia is the River Danube as it makes its way toward the Black Sea, where it forms one of Europe's largest wetlands, the Danube Delta.

About one-third of the country comprises the Carpathian Mountains, or "Transylvanian Alps," a soaring back-to-front Nike swish that separates Transylvania from the country's two other main provinces, Wallachia, to the south, and Moldavia, to the east. Through the centuries, these three historically distinct regions have been fought over by invaders from all quarters, and they now make up the bulk of Romania, a unified nation for fewer than 100 years.

Transylvania has always been a great prize, ruled largely by the Hungarian Empire and also settled by Saxon immigrants who came to protect it on behalf of the Hungarians. Here, along with splendid medieval villages centered on fortified churches, are the country's most popular tourist destinations, located at the foothills of the Carpathians. Wallachia was the first Romanian province to gain independence from Hungary, and is known as the "Heart of Romania," with the centrally located capital, Bucharest, rapidly reestablishing itself in a bid to reclaim its former moniker as the "Paris of the East." Moldavia, which once included Bessarabia (now part of the Ukraine and the Republic of Moldova), was another former Hungarian principality, which achieved independence in the mid-14th century. Known primarily for its beautiful painted monasteries in the largely rural Bucovine region, Moldavia's sylvan scenery is a backdrop for villages trapped in time and imbued with great folkloric traditions.

Even better known for its ancient village life is the small region of Maramures, in the northern part of Transylvania on the border with the Ukraine. Here, the sublime, unspoiled scenery shelters stunning wooden churches and a bucolic way of life. Occupying the western fringe of the country are Crisana and Banat, former Austro-Hungarian strongholds that now border Hungary and Serbia, respectively. Overdevelopment has blighted the Black Sea coastal resorts of the easternmost region of Northern Dobrogea, so much so that many local sun-seekers now head instead to the Bulgarian coast. Visitors still seeking a coastal sojourn should make for the Danube Delta, where the unique wetland ecosystem is an enchanting destination, particularly for birders.

Fast Facts

Addresses -- Str. (strada, or street), B-dul (bulevardul, or boulevard), and Sos. (sosea, or avenue) are abbreviations for different road types used throughout this chapter. Calea is another word used for avenue, and a piata is a square.

Airlines -- Tarom is the national carrier; local details appear throughout this chapter.

Area Code -- The international dialing code for Romania is +40.

ATM Networks -- All towns and cities across the country have ATMs where you can use your credit card to withdraw cash.

Banks & Currency Exchange -- As a rule, rather make use of ATMs to get cash; your bank will charge an international withdrawal fee, but you're saved the hassle of standing in a bank queue or dealing with any paperwork. Most banks and exchange offices advertise that they don't charge a commission on changing money, but don't expect a favorable rate on zero commission transactions. Check the international market price of the local currency regularly.

Business Hours -- Standard business hours are not yet the norm in Romania, although most shops open at 9 or 10am and close anywhere between 5 and 8pm during the week; in major cities, shops will be open Saturday mornings until 1pm. Sundays are generally reserved for family and home life. Most museums close on Mondays (and sometimes also Tues).

Car Rentals -- All major international car-rental agencies are represented in Romania; cars are relatively inexpensive, but you should consider a vehicle with off-road capacity if you're going to drive here with your nerves intact.

Drugstores -- Pharmacies are found in all cities and towns; you'll often find an outlet at city train stations.

Electricity -- Local current is 220 volts. Outlets take plugs with two round prongs, typical to continental Europe. Plug and power adapters are necessary for appliances requiring 110 volts.

Embassies & Consulates -- There is extensive foreign representation in Bucharest, with embassies for the U.S., U.K., Canada, and Australia (contact details are listed in the section on Bucharest, later in this chapter). New Zealanders should contact the embassy in Vienna in case of emergencies (tel. 0043/1/318-8505).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 961 for general medical emergencies, including ambulance services. In case of fire, contact tel. 981.

Etiquette & Customs -- When visiting churches, women especially should avoid revealing clothing; shorts are generally not accepted in Orthodox churches. When attending an Orthodox liturgy, you can follow the protocol of other worshippers or observe from a distance; observe basic decorum.

Internet Access -- There are a few Internet cafes in cities and larger towns, but your best bet is to use Internet facilities in hotels.

Liquor Laws -- You can buy alcohol practically anywhere in Romania; drinking is legal in most public spaces, including trains and sidewalks. The legal age for drinking is 18. It is illegal to drive a car after drinking any amount of alcohol.

Local Law -- You are legally required to carry some form of identification on you at all times.

Mail -- It will take up to 2 weeks or more for a letter to reach the U.S. Post offices (look for signs that read POS[CD]TA) are generally open weekdays 7am to 8pm, and Saturdays 8am to 1pm. To save time buy stamps through your hotel and ask reception to send your mail.

Maps -- You can access interactive maps at www.mapquest.com. Free maps of towns and cities are usually available at hotels and local tourist information offices.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Practically every city and large town has a slew of publications advertising and promoting entertainment and social events in the locality; these include 24-Fun, Zile si Nopti, and Sapte Serî. Local English newspapers are scant and more interesting for their quaint use of the language than for coverage of local or international events; Romania's first English daily is Nine O'Clock (www.nineoclock.ro). If you're interested in media, design, or architecture, look out for periodic publications by local publisher igloo media (www.igloo.ro).

Police -- Contact the police anywhere in Romania by dialing tel. 955. There are abundant complaints by locals about police corruption and also a laissez-faire attitude toward certain crimes; bribes are often expected. Generally, the same attitude is not extended to foreigners; a more likely problem may be an inability or unwillingness to understand English. If you have a police-related emergency, consider also contacting your embassy.

Restrooms -- Your general reaction to public toilets will be "yuck"; try to avoid these. In Bucharest, paid-for toilets in public gardens are increasingly acceptable.

Safety & Crime -- There is relatively little violent crime in Romania. Pickpockets may operate in crowded areas (like buses, trains, and stations), and tend to target the country's tourist hot spots. When sitting in bars, cafes, and restaurants, take care not to leave your handbag on the floor or over the back of your seat; similarly, don't leave valuables lying around. Be vigilant with your luggage on trains. Campers are vulnerable and should be cautious. Stray dogs pose a threat when hungry or provoked; some are infected with rabies; if bitten, seek medical assistance immediately.

Taxes & Service Charges -- An assortment of taxes may be added to your hotel bill; this will be clearly advertised and more often than not is included in the published tariff. VAT is mandatory, while there are a few state and local taxes which may apply, depending on where in the country you are. In a few towns, a small tax is added to the cost of museum tickets.

Telephones -- Romania's telecommunications are much improved and there is hardly an unconnected spot in the country. Mobile telephones are ubiquitous; the most convenient way to stay in touch is to purchase a SIM card when you arrive and top up with credit as you go. Public pay phones are orange and use magnetic cards, which can be bought from post offices and some hotels; you can purchase L10 ($4.30/£2.65) and L20 ($8.60/£5.35) cards. For an international operator, dial tel. 971. Most hotels now have direct international dialing from your room, although this is extremely pricey; those that have the facility usually have detailed dialing instructions in-room. Finally, for domestic calls, you can expect to hear a bizarre range of dialing tones, many of which sound convincingly like engaged or dead signals; often you should just wait to hear if your call is likely to be answered.

Time Zone -- During winter, Romania is 7 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Standard Time, or 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. During summer, daylight saving time puts Romanian clocks 1 hour forward, along with the rest of Europe.

Tipping -- Gratuities are neither mandatory nor expected in the majority of situations; expensive establishments are the exception, and in some upmarket city restaurants you're likely to be treated with abuse if you do not tip. Bear in mind, though, that Romanians in the service industry are paid appallingly. Consider giving a 10% tip in restaurants, and round up the fare for taxi drivers, if you feel you've been decently treated. Be aware of certain city taxi drivers who will just as soon assume that they can do the rounding up themselves; insist on getting your change, and then hand over whatever tip amount you've decided on.

Water -- One-third of Europe's naturally occurring mineral springs are found in Romania. Officially, tap water is potable and safe to drink, but most Romanians will tell you never to drink any water that isn't bottled.

Tips on Dining

Meat is big in Romania, and you're generally expected to be a carnivore to cope with traditional Romanian cuisine that favors pork, but includes plenty of fish, widely considered a vegetable in these parts. Traditional staples include mamaliga, a polenta-type pottage made from cornmeal, and sarmale, parcels made with cabbage or vine leaves, stuffed with rice or meat. When you are treated to a multicourse meal, soup (ciorba) is commonly served first, and the main dish is usually accompanied by some kind of salad (salata). Specialties will vary from region to region, as will the tastes of similar dishes, prepared according to local traditions. Generally, most towns you visit will have restaurants, bistros, less formal taverns (taverna), and wine cellars (crama) that double as atmospheric dining halls. Some of these places will have the formal stuffiness preferred in certain Eastern European circles, while down-home-looking eateries are often just fine for a homey, affordable meal. Most restaurants will also have a terrace (terasa), ideal in summer. Romania is also known for its potent homemade brandies, made from plums and other fruit; don't pass up the offer of a tot of tuica (or much stronger palinca), sure to raise your body temperature.

Escorted & Package Tours

DiscoveRomania, Str. Paul Richter 1/1, 500025 Brasov (tel. 0722/74-6262; www.discoveromania.ro), is an excellent tour company that is also a founder member of the Association of Eco-Tourism in Romania (www.eco-romania.ro); hands-on owner Laura Vesa has a range of interesting and varied packages for travelers keen to discover the "real" Romania. To this end accommodations are generally with local families in small villages, and Laura can plan your visit around special festivals and events to deepen the experience. Nature lovers should inquire after the tour that combines 3 days animal tracking in the Carpathian Mountains with a night in a Moldavian wine-producing village and 2 nights in the Delta, in the fishing village of Uzlina.

Also putting together tours, this time for a clientele seeking sophisticated lodgings and looking for a touch of class and potentially specialized interests -- like Jewish heritage, for example -- is Eduard Popescu of Medieval Tours, Bd. Magheru 32-36, sc. C. ap. 17, 010337 Bucharest (tel. 021/326-6268 or 0721-161-323; www.medievaltours.ro). Eduard will not only tailor-make a tour that will bring Romania to life in an especially memorable way, but he'll also go above and beyond the call of duty to attend to special requests and unique interests. Fond of seeking out the undiscovered and not afraid to say it how it is, Eduard injects his tours with great charm and humor -- if you want to discover the grown-up version of Romanian history and get under the country's skin whilst seeing its most alluring sights, this is an especially satisfying option.

For adventure tours and mountain activities, Apuseni Experience (tel. 0259/47-2434; www.apuseniexperience.ro) is one of the best outfits in Romania, based in the city of Oradea.

One of the best-known companies for Romanian exploration is U.K.-based Transylvania Uncovered, 1 Atkinson Court, Fell Foot, Newby Bridge, Cumbria LA128NW (tel. +44-1539-531258; www.beyondtheforest.com), which offers dozens of specialized trips, such as the new "Secret Transylvania" tour. You might want to avoid their more gimmicky offerings, such as the "Ultimate Halloween Dracula Tours," however. The company offers different travel and flight options, so you can match trips to your budget, and accommodations range from top hotels to stays on organic farms. Luxury travel outfit Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 1-800/554-7016; www.abercrombieandkent.com) offers a 13-day "Highlights of Romania & Bulgaria" tour. U.S.-based Quest Tours & Adventures (tel. 1-800/621-8687; www.romtour.com) has specialist tours to Romania, ranging in duration from the 2-day "Touch of Transylvania" tour to the 11-day "World Heritage" tour.

The online Romanian Travel Guide (www.rotravel.com) is a resource for virtual planners with links to local tour operators; you can book discounted accommodations at discounted rates through this service.

Tips on Accommodations

In a country where the service industry was for a long time associated with spying on guests for the Communist government, service does not always meet expectations, but accommodations are steadily improving. Hotels are rated according to a star system, which is a moderately informative guide to the type of facilities you can expect to find. However, genuine quality often hides in the details, and there are many three-star properties that are more intimate and classy than their four- or even five-star neighbors. Pensiunea (basically, a family-run guesthouse or scaled-down version of a hotel) may be rated two or three stars (or "daisies"), because they offer meals and bedrooms with en suite facilities; in the same star category, however, you may find a much better villa which simply doesn't have an elevator.

When booking a room, note that a "double" usually refers to a twin-bedded unit; double-bedded guest rooms are frequently referred to as "matrimonials." To eliminate any misunderstanding, it's best to request a "matrimonial double," and top this with a request for a "king-size" bed, which will not really impact the size of the bed, but will ensure that you don't have two singles. And be suspicious of accepting accommodations when you're told that only the expensive suite is available as this is usually pure nonsense.

Staying with the Locals -- Homestays, pensiunea, and rural guesthouses are an excellent way of getting to grips with village or community life; in rural areas, there are an unprecedented number of agritourism schemes enabling you to stay with local families at low cost. Be warned, however, that life for some of these families may be fairly simple; you'll be expected to put up with similar conditions. Always check if there is regular hot water, electricity supply, and bathroom facilities (in this chapter, you'll find mention of any problems in this regard). For extensive homestay options across the country, contact A.N.T.R.E.C. (National Association of Rural, Ecological and Cultural Tourism), Str. Maica Alexandra 7, Bucharest (tel. 021/223-7024; fax 021/222-8001; www.antrec.ro), which has an excellent online booking system with helpful details of its network of guesthouses.