Although it’s housed in a 17th-century palazzo, this is a modern Roman bistro with contemporary takes on traditional trattoria dishes. Expect pasta with swordfish or tuna, or skewered prawns wrapped in thin strips of melty lardo pork, served on vegetal velouté; or the Argentine beef dotted with flecks of pâté, or when available, shaved white truffles from Piedmont. The desserts revolve around a sensational selection of mousses paired with Bavarian chocolate, hazelnuts, caramel, and pistachio. The wine list features over 600 labels, many well-priced varietals from all over Italy, and with just as much attention paid to French wines.