Word is definitely out on this cozy, plain-Jane trattoria near Termini station. But that just means you need to reserve in advance to sample outstanding, hearty pastas and meat dishes from the Marche region. You will remember the tortello al rosso d’uovo, a large, delicate ravioli filled with spinach, ricotta, and egg yolk, for the rest of your life. You also may discover a few new favorites among the territory’s underappreciated wines.