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In 2012, the old Testaccio market building was replaced by this modern, daringly modernist, sustainably powered market building. It’s the best place to go produce shopping with the Romans. There’s everything you could want to pack a picnic—cheese, cured meats, seasonal fruit—as well as meat, fish, and fresh vegetables (ideal if you are self-catering in the city). There are also clothes and kitchenware stalls, but the food is the star. For instant gratification, sample the street food at Mordi e Vai ★★, Box 15; (tel) 339-1343344. The likes of a panino filled with warm Roman recipes like veal and artichokes in a piquant gravy costs around 4€. The market runs Monday through Saturday from 6am to 2:30pm.