A medieval mayor of Rothenburg is your host, in spirit at least, in these no-frills but comfortable accommodations in his former home. Some of the rooms are small and pretty basic, and priced accordingly, while others are a bit grander and geared to families (some sleep five) and longer stays. All have attractive and sensible furnishings, and many are enlivened with wooden ceilings and other character-supplying features. Most atmospheric is the 650-year-old common room and the breakfast room, fitted out of the mayor’s office (with a toasty closet designed to keep his parchments dry). The in-house restaurant specializes in Franconian fare with tasty dishes like marinated beef, and moist roast goose leg soaked in an unforgettable gravy, and a side of red kraut and potato dumplings. Try it with the bold Taubertäler red wine from Lauda-Königshofen.

Obere Schmiedgasse 5 (off Marktplatz). [tel] 09861/228. www.gasthof-greifen-rothenburg.de. 14 units. 65€–98€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Free parking. Closed Dec 22–Jan 3. Amenities: Room service, free in-room Wi-Fi.