Things To Do in Saint John

If the weather's good, begin by wandering around the waterfront. Tourism Saint John has published several walking-tour brochures that offer plenty of history and architectural trivia, including a rundown of the oddly fascinating gargoyles and sculpted heads that adorn downtown's 19th-century buildings. If you have time for only one walk, architecture buffs should go on "Prince William's Walk," an hour-long, self-guided tour of the city's impressive commercial buildings. (Personally, though, I like to wing it and just wander.) You can obtain these tour brochures at the Market Square information center.

Wherever you ramble, be sure to drop by the Saint John City Market and to work the Old Burial Ground (across from King's Square) into your itinerary; it's a good place to rest for a spell. The ancient cemetery dates from 1784, but it was renovated quite recently -- note the beaver fountain, which is supposed to be symbolic of the city's hardworking citizens. I think.

If you have a car, you'll also want to visit at least two of the city's tremendous nature preserves. I can't tell you how surprising it is to find so much lovely, varied green space in the midst of a city.

If the weather's disagreeable (it could be), head indoors. Taking a cue from Montréal, Saint John has helpfully linked up quite a number of downtown malls and shops with each other through an elaborate network of underground passageways and overhead pedestrian walkways. The whole thing has been dubbed "The Inside Connection", and despite that rather silly name, it's well worth a look -- the system makes the city approachable even in heavy rains or snow. The various spurs of the network don't only touch shopping destinations, either: two major hotels, as well as the museum, city library, city market, sports arena, and gleaming aquatic center are linked in, too.

Outdoor Pursuits

Just after construction workers found a 500-million-year-old rock formation called the Hinge in 2010, the United Nations named Stonehammer Geopark  North America’s first UNESCO-recognized geopark. Saint John lies in the heart of the swath of land along the Bay of Fundy that is recognized for a range of natural attributes, geoscientific significance, and beauty. Supporters and tour operators have created outdoor activities like geocaching, guided kayak and hiking tours, and winter activities like snowshoeing to help visitors experience Stonehammer’s attributes. Find them in brochures available at visitor centers and on line at www.stonehammergeopark.com.

Several local companies offer tour services: Go Fundy Events (www.gofundyevents.com;  tel. 866/672-0770) is run by a team of experienced and knowledgeable guides who exhibit an intense dedication to their city and to Stonehammer. Find others listed in the Saint John Visitor Guide available at most New Brunswick visitor centers.

The best theater entertainment in town can be found at the Imperial Theatre (tel. 506/674-4100 or 800/323-7469 from Maine and the Maritimes) on King's Square -- not just because of the acts, but because of what the Toronto Globe and Mail called the "most beautifully restored theatre in Canada." It opened in 1913 and hosted such luminaries as Edgar Bergen, Al Jolson, and Walter Pidgeon (the latter a Saint John native). Driven out of business by movie houses, it served for a time as a Pentecostal church and was threatened with demolition. That's when concerned citizens stepped in. The Imperial reopened in 1994, and has since hosted a wide range of performances from Broadway road shows to local theater productions and music concerts. If nothing's scheduled during your stay, a guide still gives half-hour tours during summertime; admire the intricate plasterwork and a 3m (9-ft.) chandelier. The tours are offered daily except Sunday by appointment only, 9am to 5pm, for C$2 per person. See the theater's website at www.imperialtheatre.nb.ca for performance schedules.

If you're looking to catch a big-time recording act passing through town, head for Harbour Station (tel. 506/657-1234, or 800/267-2800 from Maine or the Maritimes; www.harbourstation.nb.ca) at 99 Station St. The acts here run the gamut -- during your stay in town, you might coincide with anyone from Mötley Crüe, WWE wrestling, and Brad Paisley (we'll pass) to pre-season hockey and Willie Nelson (we're in).

The rest of Saint John's nightlife revolves around the city's seemingly unending selection of pubs, most featuring live music and concentrated in the downtown district. They're all more or less the same experience, and fit the bill if you want beer, music, iffy food, and noisy conviviality.