Bargain-hunters and families rejoice at finding this apartment hotel in the heart of the city near the Plaza Mayor. The furnishings are clean and modern, but hardly stylish. The space, however, is hard to beat. In addition to 23 double rooms, the Toboso has seven apartments—four with two bedrooms that sleep three, and three with three bedrooms that can sleep up to five. The apartments also have kitchens with full-sized stoves and refrigerators, and washing machines. The bathrooms are shiny and new, if a little gaudy with all that red marble. There are two possible drawbacks. Some rooms are over a cabaret/music bar—ask for digs overlooking the quiet interior courtyard instead. Secondly, there is no air-conditioning. The thick stone walls keep it fairly cool even in the summer, but it’s not for travelers who can’t sleep in a room that isn’t chilly.