Gwendolyn chef/owner Michael Sohocki is a soft-spoken man with a tiny, whisper-quiet restaurant, its kitchen the size of a closet. His unassuming eatery on a near-forgotten bend in the River Walk would be a surprising find—except that it’s been lauded by the major food press. Named for Sohocki’s grandmother, the restaurant hearkens back to an era when food was prepared without electrical equipment: Its cooks use no blenders, mixers, deep fryers, or anything with a motor (other than the fridge, which the health department insists upon). Sample fresh-made po’boys at lunch; at dinner, the changing tasting menu might include a venison tartare, Caesar salad with charred broccoli, or barbecued quail with stewed collard greens. Sohocki buys whole animals from nearby farms and he butchers, dry-ages, and preserves them; he smokes his own bacon, grinds his own sausage. Restaurant Gwendolyn is no stunt; it’s a labor of love, cooking unplugged.