Planning a trip to San Diego

Tips for Families

With its plethora of theme parks, animal attractions, and beaches and parks, San Diego is an ideal family vacation destination. And, of course, Disneyland is right up the road, too.

Keep in mind some hotels offer free or discounted lodging for children who share a room with a parent or guardian -- be sure to ask.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children. You might also consider checking out The Unofficial Guide to California with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).

Parents who don't want the added stress and hassle of lugging along items such as strollers, cribs, car seats, or toys on their trip can contact Go Baby Go! (tel. 760/832-1353; www.gobabygosandiego.com). The company will deliver directly to your destination or even the airport. For babysitting services look to Marion's Childcare (tel. 888/891-5029 or 619/303-4379; www.hotelchildcare.com) or Panda's Domestic Service Agency (tel. 619/295-3800; www.sandiegobabysitters.com).

Getting There

By Plane

San Diegans have a love-hate relationship with San Diego International Airport (tel. 619/231-2100; www.san.org), also known as Lindbergh Field. The facility (airport code: SAN) is just 3 miles northwest of downtown, and the landing approach is right at the edge of the central business district. Pilots thread a passage between high-rise buildings and Balboa Park on their final descent to the runway -- you'll get a great view on either side of the plane. The best part: We usually count the time from touchdown to gate-park in seconds, not minutes, and departures are rarely delayed for weather problems.

Lindbergh Field is the nation's busiest single-runway commercial airport -- all 600 daily arrivals and departures use just one strip of asphalt. And while its dainty size makes it easy for travelers to navigate, its truncated facilities make it virtually unusable for international travel. Most overseas visitors arrive via Los Angeles or points east (Air Canada and British Airways are the only international carriers flying into San Diego). Domestically, the city is served by most national and regional airlines, although none utilize Lindbergh Field as a connecting hub. City officials are well aware of the critical need to enlarge or move the airport. Plans have ranged from a floating airport-at-sea (yes, really) to setting it in the Anza-Borrego Desert to conscripting Miramar Naval Air Station.

The latest plan calls for a build-out of the current site, and a facilities improvement of Terminal 2 -- dubbed "The Green Build" for its commitment to recycling and energy conservation -- is presently underway. This $1 billion project is scheduled to be completed in 2013 and will include a two-level roadway to separate traffic coming to pick up or drop off passengers, curbside check-in, 10 new gates, and additional shopping and dining options. Beware of traffic delays due to construction.

Planes land at Terminal 1 or 2, while the Commuter Terminal, a half-mile from the main terminals, is used by regional carriers American Eagle and United Express and for connecting flights to Los Angeles (for flight info, contact the parent carriers). The Airport Loop shuttle provides free, 24-hour service from the main airport to the Commuter Terminal, or there's a footpath. General information desks with visitor materials, maps, and other services are near the baggage claim areas of both terminals 1 and 2. You can exchange foreign currency at Travelex (www.travelex.com) in Terminal 1, across from United check-in, and in Terminal 2, beyond security, near the food court. Hotel reservation and car-rental courtesy phones are in the baggage-claim areas of terminals 1 and 2.

If you are staying at a hotel in Carlsbad, Encinitas, or Rancho Santa Fe, the McClellan-Palomar Airport (tel. 877/848-7766 or 760/431-4646; www.sdcounty.ca.gov) in Carlsbad (CLD) may be a more convenient point of entry. The airport is 42 miles north of downtown San Diego and is served by United Express from Los Angeles.

Attention visitors to the U.S. from abroad: Some major airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country. Inquire with your air carrier.

Getting into Town from the Airport

By Bus -- The Metropolitan Transit System (MTS; tel. 619/233-3004; www.transit.511sd.com) operates the San Diego Transit Flyer -- bus route no. 992 -- providing service between the airport and downtown San Diego, running along Broadway. Bus stops are at each of Lindbergh Field's three terminals. The one-way fare is $2.25, and exact change is required. If you're connecting to another bus or the San Diego Trolley, you'll need to purchase a Day Pass; free transfers are no longer given. A 1-day pass is $5 and is available from the driver. The ride takes about 15 minutes, and buses come at 15-minute intervals.

At the Transit Store, 102 Broadway, at First Avenue (tel. 619/234-1060), you can get information about greater San Diego's mass transit system (bus, rail, and ferry) and pick up passes, free brochures, route maps, and timetables. The store is open Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm.

By Taxi -- Taxis line up outside terminals 1 and 2. The trip to a downtown location, usually a 10-minute ride, is about $15 (including tip); budget $25 for Coronado or Mission Beach, and about $30 to $35 for La Jolla.

By Shuttle -- Several airport shuttles run regularly from the airport to points around the city; you'll see designated pickup areas outside each terminal. The shuttles are a good deal for single travelers; two or more people traveling together might as well take a taxi. The fare is about $8 per person to downtown hotels; Mission Valley and Mission Beach hotels are $12; La Jolla, $20; and Coronado hotels, $16. Rates to a residence are about $3 to $7 more than the above rates for the first person, with discounted rates for additional passengers. One company that serves all of San Diego County is SuperShuttle (tel. 800/974-8885; www.supershuttle.com).

By Car -- If you're driving to downtown from the airport, take Harbor Drive south to Broadway, the main east-west thoroughfare, and turn left. To reach Hillcrest or Balboa Park, exit the airport toward I-5, and follow the signs for Laurel Street. To reach Mission Bay, take I-5 North to I-8 West. To reach La Jolla, take I-5 north to the La Jolla Parkway exit, bearing left onto Torrey Pines Road.

By Bus

Greyhound buses serve San Diego from downtown Los Angeles, Phoenix, Las Vegas, and other Southwestern cities, arriving at the downtown terminal, at 120 W. Broadway (tel. 800/231-2222 or 619/239-3266; 001/214-849-8100 outside the U.S.; www.greyhound.com). A number of hotels, Horton Plaza, and the Gaslamp Quarter are within walking distance, as is the San Diego Trolley line. Buses from Los Angeles are as frequent as every hour, and the ride takes about 2 1/2 hours. One-way fare is $22 and round-trips are $34. You can whittle the price down by purchasing nonrefundable tickets or by getting them in advance online.

Greyhound is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com for unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada.

By Train

Trains from all points in the United States and Canada will take you to Los Angeles, where you'll need to change trains for the journey to San Diego. You'll arrive at San Diego's Santa Fe Station (tel. 619/239-9021), downtown at the west end of Broadway, between Pacific Highway and Kettner Boulevard. It's within walking distance to many downtown hotels and the Embarcadero. Taxis line up outside the main door, the trolley station is across the street, and a dozen local bus routes stop on Broadway or Pacific Coast Highway, 1 block away.

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; 001/215-856-7953 outside the U.S.; www.amtrak.com) trains run between downtown Los Angeles and San Diego about 11 times daily each way. They stop in Anaheim (Disneyland), Santa Ana, San Juan Capistrano, Oceanside, and Solana Beach. Two trains per day also stop in San Clemente. The travel time from Los Angeles to San Diego is about 2 hours and 45 minutes (for comparison, driving time can be as little as 2 hr., or as much as 4 hr. if traffic is snarled). A one-way ticket to San Diego is $31, or $45 for a reserved seat in business class.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak. The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the Western, Eastern, or Northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Boat

San Diego's B Street Cruise Ship Terminal is at 1140 N. Harbor Dr., right at the edge of downtown (tel. 800/854-2757 or 619/686-6200; www.sandiegocruiseport.com). Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 800/764-7419; www.carnival.com) counts San Diego as a year-round home port, while several others, including Holland America Line (tel. 877/932-4259; www.hollandamerica.com), Royal Caribbean (tel. 866/562-7625; www.royalcaribbean.com), and Celebrity (tel. 800/647-2251; www.celebritycruises.com) make seasonal stops here.

By Car

Three main interstates lead into San Diego. I-5 is the primary route from San Francisco, central California, and Los Angeles; it runs straight through downtown to the Tijuana border crossing. I-8 cuts across California from points east such as Phoenix, terminating just west of I-5 at Mission Bay. I-15 leads from the deserts to the north through inland San Diego; as you enter Miramar, take Hwy. 163 south to reach the central parts of the city.

If you're planning a road trip, being a member of the American Automobile Association (AAA) offers helpful perks. Members who carry their cards with them not only receive free roadside assistance, but also have access to a wealth of free travel information (detailed maps and guidebooks). Also, many hotels and attractions throughout California offer discounts to AAA members -- always inquire. Call tel. 800/922-8228 or your local branch, or visit www.aaa-calif.com, for membership information.

Visitors driving to San Diego from Los Angeles and points north do so via coastal route I-5. From points northeast, take I-15 and link up with Hwy. 163 S. as you enter Miramar (use I-8 W. for the beaches). From the east, use I-8 into the city, connecting to Hwy. 163 S. for Hillcrest and downtown. Entering the downtown area, Hwy. 163 turns into 10th Avenue. If you are heading to Coronado, take the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge from I-5. Maximum speed in the San Diego area is 65 mph, and many areas are limited to 55 mph.

San Diego is 130 miles (2-3 hr.) from Los Angeles; 149 miles from Palm Springs, a 2 1/2-hour trip; and 532 miles, or 9 to 10 hours, from San Francisco.

Calendar of Events

You might want to plan your trip around one of these annual events in the San Diego area. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

San Diego Restaurant Week encourages diners to check out some of San Diego's best eateries. For 6 days, more than 160 restaurants offer special three-course prix-fixe meals. For details, go to www.sandiegorestaurantweek.com. Mid-January.

The Carlsbad Marathon & Half Marathon takes place along a scenic coastal route in San Diego's North County. For more information, call tel. 760/692-2900, or visit www.carlsbadmarathon.com. Late January.

Farmers Insurance Open, Torrey Pines Golf Course, La Jolla. This PGA Tour classic, formerly known as the Buick Invitational, draws more than 100,000 spectators each year and features 150 of the finest professional golfers. For information, call tel. 858/886-4653, or visit www.farmersinsuranceopen.com. Late January.

February

Wildflowers bloom in the desert between late February and the end of March, at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Timing varies from year to year, depending on the winter rainfall. For details, call tel. 760/767-4684, or go to www.theabf.org.

Mardi Gras in the Gaslamp Quarter is downtown's largest event. This "Fat Tuesday" party features a Mardi Gras parade, live bands and DJs, and plenty of special deals from participating clubs and restaurants. This is a ticketed event for ages 21 and older. For more information, call tel. 619/233-5227, or visit www.gaslamp.org. Feb. 21, 2012.

March

Kiwanis Ocean Beach Kite Festival. For more than 60 years the skies over the Ocean Beach Recreational Center have gotten a brilliant shot of color during this kite-flying contest. Festivities include a street fair and parade down to the beach. For more information, call tel. 619/531-1527, or visit www.oceanbeachkiwanis.org. First Saturday in March.

The San Diego Latino Film Festival, one of the largest and most successful Latino film events in the country, features more than 100 movies from throughout Latin America and the United States. Call tel. 619/230-1938, or surf to www.sdlatinofilm.com. Mid-March.

St. Patrick's Day Parade, Hillcrest. A tradition since 1980, the parade starts at Sixth Avenue and Juniper Street. An Irish Festival follows in Balboa Park. Call tel. 858/268-9111, or check www.stpatsparade.org. March 17, 2012.

Flower fields in bloom at Carlsbad Ranch. One of North County's most spectacular sights is the yearly blossoming of a sea of bright ranunculuses during March and April. Visitors are welcome to tour the fields off I-5 (at the Palomar Airport Rd. exit). For more information, call tel. 760/431-0352, or go to www.theflowerfields.com.

April

San Diego Crew Classic, Crown Point Shores, Mission Bay. Since its launch in 1973, this has grown into one of the great rowing events in the country, drawing collegiate teams and clubs from throughout the U.S. Call tel. 619/225-0300, or check out www.crewclassic.org. First weekend in April.

Gran Fondo San Diego is a festive, Euro-style biking event through the streets of San Diego. Italian for "big ride," the Gran Fondo starts, appropriately enough, in Little Italy and has courses that cover 100 miles (the Gran Fondo) and 53 miles (the Medio Fondo). There's also an expo, prizes, and post-race party. Check www.granfondosandiego.com for information. Early April.

Coronado Flower Show weekend, Spreckels Park. Organizers claim this is the largest tented flower show in the United States. The weekend-long event includes plant sales, food, and a lineup of entertainment. Go to www.coronadoflowershow.org for more details. Mid-April.

Roots Fest on Adams, Normal Heights. This blues, folk, Cajun, Celtic, bluegrass, and international music festival held on six stages along Adams Avenue, between 34th Street and Wilson Avenue, is free to the public and features food, beer gardens, and arts-and-crafts vendors. Call tel. 619/282-7329, or stop by www.adamsavenuebusiness.com. Late April.

ArtWalk, Little Italy, along Kettner Boulevard and India Street. This 2-day festival is now the largest art event in the San Diego/Tijuana region. For more information, call tel. 619/615-1090, or visit www.missionfederalartwalk.org. Late April.

Day at the Docks, Harbor Drive and Scott Street, Point Loma. This sportfishing tournament and festival features food, entertainment, fishing contests, seminars, and free boat tours and rides. Call tel. 619/234-8793, or visit www.sportfishing.org. Usually the last Sunday of April.

Del Mar National Horse Show. This is the first event in the Del Mar racing season and is held at the famous Del Mar Fairgrounds. The field at this show includes Olympic-caliber and national championship horse-and-rider teams. Call tel. 858/792-4252, or visit www.delmarnational.com. Mid-April to early May.

Lakeside Rodeo. You won't forget your way out West at this down-home rodeo held in East County. From barrel racing to bull riding, this is the real deal. For information, call tel. 619/561-4331, or go to www.lakesiderodeo.com. Late April.

May

Fiesta Cinco de Mayo, Old Town. Uniformed troops march and guns blast to mark the 1862 triumph of Mexican soldiers over the French at the battle of Puebla. The festivities include a battle reenactment. (Hint: Take the trolley and make dining reservations well in advance.) Admission is free. Call tel. 619/291-4903, or visit www.fiestacincodemayo.com. Weekend closest to May 5.

Gator by the Bay, Harbor Island. Let the good times roll at this annual zydeco and blues music festival. In addition to the music, the festival features Cajun food and cooking demonstrations, dances, and a variety of exhibitors and vendors. Call tel. 619/234-8612, or go to www.sandiegofestival.com for more details. Early May.

Carlsbad Spring Village Faire, Grand Avenue, from Carlsbad Boulevard to Jefferson Street. This event is billed as the biggest and best arts-and-crafts fair in Southern California. Call tel. 760/931-8400 for more details, or go to www.carlsbad.org. Early May (a fall festival is also held in Nov.).

Annual American Indian Art Market and Film Festival, Museum of Man, Balboa Park. Native Americans from dozens of tribes across the United States gather to demonstrate tribal dances and sell arts, crafts, and edibles. The American Indian Film Institute curates a roster of film screenings. Call tel. 619/239-2001, or check www.museumofman.org. Mid-May.

June

Mainly Mozart Festival, Gaslamp Quarter. Presenting the work of Mozart and his contemporaries, this acclaimed classical music festival features an all-star orchestra consisting of players drawn from around the world. For information, call tel. 619/239-0100, or go online at www.mainlymozart.org. Performances throughout the month.

The Rock 'n' Roll Marathon and 1/2 Marathon not only offers runners a unique course through Balboa Park, downtown, and around Mission Bay, but it also pumps them (and spectators) up with live bands on 26 stages along the course. There is a pre-race fitness expo and post-race concert, featuring big-name talent. Call tel. 800/311-1255, or go online at www.san-diego.competitor.com. Early June.

San Diego County Fair. Referred to by locals as the Del Mar Fair, this is the other major happening -- besides horse racing -- at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. In addition to livestock competitions, thrill rides, flower-and-garden shows, and more, there are also concerts by name performers (some require a separate admission). The fair lasts more than 3 weeks. Call tel. 858/793-5555, or visit www.sdfair.com. Mid-June to early July.

Summer Organ Festival, Balboa Park. These free concerts at the Spreckels Organ Pavilion take place on Monday evenings (year-round there are free concerts on Sun at 2pm). Call tel. 619/702-8138 or go to www.sosorgan.com. Mid-June to late August.

Old Globe Summer Shakespeare Festival, Balboa Park. The Bard takes center stage with several different works staged at the Tony Award-winning Old Globe's open-air theater. Produced in true repertory style, shows alternate each night, performed by the same company of actors. Call tel. 619/234-5623, or visit www.theoldglobe.org. Mid-June through September.

July

San Diego Symphony Summer Pops, downtown. The symphony's summer pops series features lighter classical, jazz, opera, Broadway, and show tunes, all performed under the stars and capped by fireworks. Held most summer weekends at the Embarcadero downtown. For details, call tel. 619/235-0804, or visit www.sandiegosymphony.com. Early July to early September.

World Championship Over-the-Line Tournament, Mission Bay. This popular event is a San Diego original -- a beach softball tournament dating from 1953. It's renowned for boisterous, beer-soaked, anything-goes behavior, with a total of 1,200 three-person teams competing and 50,000 fans in attendance. It takes place on 2 consecutive weekends on Fiesta Island in Mission Bay, and admission is free. For more details, call tel. 619/688-0817, or visit www.ombac.org. Mid-July.

Thoroughbred Racing Season. The "turf meets the surf" in Del Mar during the thoroughbred racing season at the Del Mar Race Track. Post time is 2pm most days; the track is dark on Monday and Tuesdays. For this year's schedule of events, call tel. 858/755-1141, or visit www.dmtc.com. Mid-July to early September.

San Diego LGBT Pride Parade, Rally, and Festival. This event is one of San Diego's biggest draws, celebrating the lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender community. It begins Friday night with a rally at the Organ Pavilion in Balboa Park, and reconvenes at 11am on Saturday for the parade through Hillcrest, followed by a massive festival -- held at the park's Marston Point -- that continues Sunday. For more information, call tel. 619/297-7683, or visit www.sdpride.org. Third or fourth weekend in July.

Comic-Con International, downtown. Upward of 125,000 people attend America's largest comic-book convention each year when it lands at the San Diego Convention Center for a long weekend of auctions, dealers, celebrities, film screenings, and seminars focusing on graphic novels, fantasy, and sci-fi. Note: You must pre-register online to attend; there are no on-site sales. Single-day tickets do sell out. Call tel. 619/491-2475, or check www.comic-con.org. Late July.

U.S. Open Sandcastle Competition, Imperial Beach Pier. Here's the quintessential beach event: A street festival and children's sand-castle contest occur on Saturday, followed by the main competition Sunday. Note: The castles are usually plundered by 4pm, before the tide washes them away. For details, call tel. 619/424-6663, or visit www.usopensandcastle.com. Late July.

August

La Jolla SummerFest is perhaps San Diego's most prestigious annual music event. It features a wide spectrum of classical and contemporary music. SummerFest also offers master classes, open rehearsals, and workshops. It's presented by the La Jolla Music Society; call tel. 858/459-3728, or visit www.ljms.org for more information. Early to mid-August.

Surfing Competitions. Oceanside's pier-side surfing spot attracts several competitions, including the World Bodysurfing Championships and the Longboard Surf Club Competition. Call the Oceanside Visitors Bureau at tel. 800/350-7873 or 760/721-1101, or visit www.worldbodysurfing.org and www.oceansidelongboardsurfingclub.org. Mid- or late August.

Celebrate Dance Festival, Balboa Park. More than 50 dance groups gather to perform free shows on indoor and outdoor stages. The 3-day event features everything from Butoh to flamenco and is organized by Eveoke Dance Theatre. Call tel. 619/238-1153 or visit www.eveoke.org. Late August.

Festival of Sail, Embarcadero. Tall ships from around the world converge on San Diego for this celebration of the golden age of sailing. There are ship tours, mock sea battles, entertainment, and arts and crafts vendors. The festivities are hosted by the Maritime Museum, tel. 619/234-9153 or www.sdmaritime.org, over the Labor Day holiday (Aug. 30-Sept. 3, 2012).

September

La Jolla Rough Water Swim, La Jolla Cove. The country's largest rough-water swimming competition began in 1916 and features masters, men's and women's, junior, and amateur heats. Spectators don't need tickets. For information, call tel. 858/456-2100. Downloadable entry forms are available at www.ljrws.com. Sunday after Labor Day.

Ocean Beach Music & Art Festival. This daylong outdoor concert features seven seaside stages of jazz and funk, along with local beer, plenty of food, and exhibiting artists. Check out www.obmusicfest.org. Mid-September.

Julian Fall Apple Harvest. The popular apple harvest season runs for 2 months in early fall; there are plenty of special events to go along with the fresh apple pies. For more information, contact the chamber of commerce at tel. 760/765-1857; www.julianca.com. Mid-September to mid-November.

Fleet Week is a bit of a misnomer -- it actually lasts a couple of weeks. The nation's largest military appreciation event, it features Navy ship tours, a golf tournament, an auto race of classic speedsters, an air show, and more. Call tel. 619/858-1545 or check out www.fleetweeksandiego.org for more information. Mid-September to early October.

Festival of Beer, downtown. San Diego's local breweries (along with guest brewers from around California and beyond) strut their stuff at this outdoor festival. Some 70 different breweries are on tap, along with live music and food at this 21-and-up-only event. For more information go to www.sdbeerfest.org. Mid-September.

San Diego Bayfair. You'll need a good pair of earplugs for this world series of powerboat racing on Mission Bay (they don't call them thunderboats for nothing). This family-friendly event also features a beach festival. For information, call tel. 619/434-8260, or go to www.sandiegobayfair.org. Mid-September.

San Diego Film Festival, downtown. Dozens of features, documentaries, shorts, and music videos from around the world are screened over 5 days. There are also educational panels and nightly soirees. Call tel. 619/582-2368 for more information, or log onto www.sdff.org. Late September.

October

California Surf Festival, Oceanside. Surf culture in all its glory is explored via art, music, film, and more at this 5-day event. The film fest features a category of shorts shot by "groms" (kid surfers); proceeds benefit the California Surf Museum. Call tel. 760/721-6876 or check out www.californiasurffestival.com. Early October.

Little Italy Festa. One of the largest celebrations of Italian culture in the West, the Festa draws more than 100,000 people to the streets of Little Italy for a day of traditional food, music, and entertainment. Highlights include stickball and chalk-art street painting competitions. For information, call tel. 619/233-3898, or visit www.littleitalysd.com. Mid-October.

November

Carlsbad Fall Village Faire. Billed as the largest 1-day street fair in the United States, this festival features more than 900 vendors on 24 city blocks. The epicenter is the intersection of Grand Avenue and Jefferson Street. Call tel. 760/931-8400, or visit www.carlsbad.org. First Sunday in November (a spring festival is held in May, as well).

San Diego Beer Week. Brewers, restaurants, and bars throughout the county become even more beer-obsessed than normal for this 10-day celebration of San Diego's thriving craft-brewing culture. The closing-day event, bringing together top chefs and beermeisters, is a highlight. Check www.sdbw.org for information. Early to mid-November.

San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival. Held at various venues over 5 days, this is Southern California's largest wine and culinary event. More than 200 wineries and restaurants participate. For details, call tel. 858/578-9463, or log onto www.worldofwineevents.com. Mid-November.

Dr. Seuss' How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, Balboa Park. San Diego was the adopted hometown of Theodor Geisel, aka Dr. Seuss, and since 1998 the Old Globe Theatre has been transformed into Whoville each holiday season. This musical has become a family tradition, with discounted seats for kids. For more information, call tel. 619/234-5623, or check www.theoldglobe.org. Mid-November through December.

Mother Goose Parade, El Cajon. Since 1947, this East County city has celebrated childhood with the largest parade in San Diego. It's classic Americana. Call tel. 619/444-8712 for info, or go to www.mothergooseparade.org. Late November (the Sunday before Thanksgiving).

San Diego Thanksgiving Dixieland Jazz Festival. More than 20 bands perform at this annual festival, held over Thanksgiving weekend. Call tel. 619/297-5277, or visit www.dixielandjazzfestival.org. Late November.

Encinitas Fall Festival, Encinitas. This street fair takes over quaint downtown Encinitas along Coast Highway and features 450 vendors and live music on three stages. Call tel. 760/943-1950 or visit www.encinitas101.com. Late November.

December

Ocean Beach Holiday Parade. This parade is a family affair (Santa Claus is on hand, of course), but with entries such as the Off-Key Choir and the Geriatric Surf Team, it's definitely quirky. Call tel. 619/224-4906, or visit www.oceanbeachsandiego.com. First Saturday in December.

Balboa Park December Nights. San Diego's wonderful urban park is decked out in holiday splendor for this 2-night event. The event is free and lasts from 5 to 9pm both days; the park's museums are free during those hours, and special events and ethnic foods add to the good cheer. For more information, call tel. 619/239-0512, or visit www.balboapark.org. First Friday and Saturday in December.

Whale-watching season takes place during the winter months along the San Diego County coast. More than 20,000 Pacific gray whales make the annual trek from chilly Alaskan seas to the warm-water breeding lagoons of Baja California, and then back again with their calves in tow. Cabrillo National Monument, on the panoramic Point Loma peninsula, offers a glassed-in observatory from which to spot the whales, examine whale exhibits, and listen to taped narration describing these amazing animals. Various companies offer whale-watching tours throughout the season, as well. For more information, call tel. 619/557-5450 or 619/236-1212, or visit www.sandiego.org. Mid-December to mid-March.

Mission Bay Boat Parade of Lights, from Quivira Basin in Mission Bay. Held on a Saturday, the best viewing is around Crown Point, on the east side of Vacation Island, or the west side of Fiesta Island; it concludes with the lighting of a 320-foot tower of holiday lights at SeaWorld. Call tel. 858/488-0501. For more vessels dressed up like Christmas trees, the San Diego Boat Parade of Lights is held in San Diego Bay on two Sundays, with a route starting at Shelter Island and running past Seaport Village and the Coronado Ferry Landing Marketplace. Visit www.sdparadeoflights.org for more information. Mid-December.

College bowl games. San Diego is home to two college football bowl games: the Holiday Bowl and the Poinsettia Bowl, both held in late December. The Holiday Bowl pits top teams from the Pac 10 and Big 12 conferences, and the Poinsettia Bowl pairs a team from the Mountain West Conference against an at-large opponent. The Poinsettia Bowl (tel. 619/285-5061; www.poinsettiabowl.net) was inaugurated in 2005; the Holiday Bowl (tel. 619/283-5808; www.holidaybowl.com) has been around since 1978, and features several special events, including the nation's biggest balloon parade of giant inflatable characters. Late December.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Nearly every attraction in San Diego offers a senior discount; age requirements vary. Public transportation and movie theaters also have reduced rates. Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277 or 202/434-3525; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Road Scholar (formerly known as Elderhostel, tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) arranges worldwide study programs for all ages, but the core demographic is age 50 and above. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956, 0808-234-1714 in the U.K., or 416/588-5000 anywhere else in the world; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations (including Baja); restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Getting Around

Main Arteries & Streets

It's not hard to find your way around downtown San Diego. Most streets run one-way, in a grid pattern. First through Eleventh avenues run north and south -- odd-number avenues are northbound, even numbers run south; A through K streets alternate running east and west. Broadway (the equivalent of D St.) runs both directions, as do Market Street and Harbor Drive. North of A Street, the east-west streets bear the names of trees, in alphabetical order: Ash, Beech, Cedar, Date, and so on. Harbor Drive runs past the airport and along the waterfront, which is known as the Embarcadero. Ash Street and Broadway are the downtown arteries that connect with Harbor Drive.

The Coronado Bay Bridge leading to Coronado is accessible from I-5, south of downtown, and I-5 N. leads to Old Town, Mission Bay, La Jolla, and North County coastal areas. Balboa Park (home of the San Diego Zoo), Hillcrest, and Uptown areas lie north of downtown San Diego. The park and zoo are easily reached by way of Park Boulevard (which would otherwise be 12th Ave.), which leads to the parking lots. Fifth Avenue leads to Hillcrest. Hwy. 163, which heads north from 11th Avenue, leads into Mission Valley.

Coronado -- The main streets are Orange Avenue, where most of the hotels and restaurants are clustered, and Ocean Drive, which follows Coronado Beach.

Downtown -- The major thoroughfares are Broadway (a major bus artery), Fourth and Fifth avenues (which run south and north, respectively), C Street (the trolley line), and Harbor Drive, which curls along the waterfront and passes the Maritime Museum, Seaport Village, the Convention Center, and PETCO Park.

Hillcrest -- The main streets are University Avenue and Washington Street (both two-way, running east and west), and Fourth and Fifth avenues (both one-way, running south and north, respectively).

La Jolla -- The principal streets are Prospect Street and Girard Avenue, which are perpendicular to each other. The main routes in and out of La Jolla are La Jolla Boulevard (running south to Mission Beach) and Torrey Pines Road (leading to I-5).

Mission Valley -- I-8 runs east-west along the valley's southern perimeter; Hwy. 163, I-805, and I-15 run north-south through the valley. Hotel Circle is an elongated loop road that parallels either side of I-8 to the west of Hwy. 163; Friars Road is the major artery on the north side of the valley.

Pacific Beach -- Mission Boulevard is the main drag, parallel to and 1 block in from the beach, and perpendicular to it are Grand and Garnet avenues. East and West Mission Bay drives encircle most of the bay, and Ingraham Street cuts through the middle of it.

Street Maps

The Convention & Visitors Bureau's International Visitor Information Center, 1040 1/3 W. Broadway, along the downtown Embarcadero (tel. 619/236-1212; www.sandiego.org), provides an illustrated pocket map. Also available are maps of the 59-mile scenic drive around San Diego, the Gaslamp Quarter, Tijuana, San Diego's public transportation, and a "Campgrounds and Recreation" map for the county.

The Automobile Club of Southern California has 10 San Diego offices (tel. 619/233-1000; www.aaa-calif.com). It distributes great maps, which are free to AAA members and to members of many international auto clubs, and it sells auto insurance for those driving within Mexico.

Car-rental outfits usually offer maps of the city that show the freeways and major streets, and hotels often provide complimentary maps of the downtown area. The Transit Store, 102 Broadway, at First Avenue (tel. 619/234-1060), is a storehouse of bus and trolley maps, with a friendly staff on duty to answer specific questions.

If you're moving to San Diego or plan an extended stay, the Thomas Guide (www.thomasmaps.com), available at bookstores, drugstores, and large supermarkets for $25, is recommended. This all-encompassing book of maps deciphers San Diego County street by street.

By Train

San Diego's express rail commuter service, the Coaster, travels between the downtown Santa Fe Depot station and the Oceanside Transit Center, with stops at Old Town, Sorrento Valley, Solana Beach, Encinitas, and Carlsbad. Fares range from $5 to $6.50 each way, depending on how far you go, and can be paid by credit card at vending machines at each station. Eligible seniors and riders with disabilities pay $2.50 to $3.25; ages 5 and under are free. The scenic trip between downtown San Diego and Oceanside takes 1 hour. Trains run Monday through Friday from about 6:30am (5:30am heading south from Oceanside) to 7pm, with four trains in each direction on Saturday (there's no Sunday service); call tel. 800/262-7837 or 511 (TTY/TDD 888/722-4889) for the current schedule, or log on to www.transit.511sd.com.

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) trains head north to Los Angeles about 12 times daily each way. Stops include Solana Beach, Oceanside, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, and Anaheim (Disneyland). Two trains per day also stop in San Clemente. A one-way ticket to Solana Beach is $11; to Oceanside, $14; to San Clemente, $17; to San Juan Capistrano, $18; and to Anaheim, $23.

The Sprinter rail service runs west to east alongside Hwy. 78, from Oceanside to Escondido. The Sprinter operates Monday through Friday from about 4am to 9pm daily, with service every 30 minutes in both directions. On weekends, trains run every half-hour from 9:30am to 5:30pm (westbound) and 10:30am to 6:30pm (eastbound). There is hourly service before and after those times. Basic one-way fare is $2; $1 for seniors and travelers with disabilities.

By Public Transportation

Money-Saving Bus & Trolley Passes -- Day Passes allow unlimited rides on MTS (bus) and trolley routes. Passes are good for 2, 3, and 4 consecutive days, and cost $9, $12, and $15, respectively. Multiday passes are for sale at the Transit Store and all trolley station automated ticket vending machines (bus drivers sell 1-day passes only). Call tel. 619/234-1060 or visit www.transit.511sd.com for more information.

By Bus -- The MTS Transit Store, 102 Broadway at First Avenue (tel. 619/234-1060), dispenses passes, tokens, timetables, maps, brochures, and lost-and-found information. It issues ID cards for seniors 60 and older, as well as for travelers with disabilities -- all of whom pay $1.10 per ride. Request a copy of the useful brochure Fun Places by Bus & Trolley, which details the city's most popular tourist attractions and the public transportation that will take you to them. The office is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

San Diego has an adequate bus system that will get you to where you're going -- eventually. Most drivers are friendly and helpful; on local routes, bus stops are marked by rectangular red, white, and black signs every other block or so, farther apart on express routes. Most bus fares are $2.25. Buses accept dollar bills and coins, but drivers can't give change. Transfers are no longer issued, so if you need to make a connection with another bus or trolley, purchase a $5 day pass from the driver, at the Transit Store, or from the trolley station ticket vending machine. It gives you unlimited use of most bus and trolley routes for the rest of the service day.

For assistance with route information from a living, breathing entity, call MTS at tel. 619/233-3004. You can also view timetables, maps, and fares online -- and learn how the public transit system accommodates travelers with disabilities -- at www.transit.511sd.com. If you know your route and just need schedule information -- or automated answers to FAQs -- call Info Express (tel. 619/685-4900) from any touch-tone phone, 24 hours a day.

Some of the most popular tourist attractions served by bus and rail routes are:

• Balboa Park west entrance: Routes 1, 3, and 120
• Balboa Park east entrances and San Diego Zoo: Route 7
• SeaWorld: Route 9
• Cabrillo National Monument: Route 84
• Seaport Village: San Diego Trolley Orange Line
• Qualcomm Stadium: San Diego Trolley Green line (plus special event Red Line service from downtown)
• Tijuana: San Diego Trolley Blue Line
• San Diego International Airport: Route 992
• Wild Animal Park: Route 386 (Mon-Fri only)
• Convention Center: San Diego Trolley Orange Line
• PETCO Park: Routes 3, 4, 5, 11, 901, 929; San Diego Trolley Orange and Blue lines (plus special event Red Line service from Qualcomm Stadium)
• Coronado: Route 901 or Bay Ferry
• Gaslamp Quarter and Horton Plaza: most downtown bus routes and San Diego Trolley Blue and Orange lines
• Old Town: Routes 8, 9, 10, 28, 30, 35, 44, 88, 105, 150; San Diego Trolley Blue and Green lines; and the Coaster

The Coronado Shuttle, bus no. 904, runs between the Marriott Coronado Island Resort and the Old Ferry Landing, and then continues along Orange Avenue to the Hotel del Coronado, Glorietta Bay, and back again. No. 901 goes all the way to Coronado from San Diego.

When planning your route, note that schedules vary and most buses do not run all night. Some stop at 6pm, while other lines continue to 9pm, midnight, or 2am; budget cuts have also reduced Sunday service -- ask your bus driver for more specific information.

The privately owned bus tours operated by Old Town Trolley Tours and Vizit Tours are also an excellent way to get around much of the city during a short visit. Both are narrated sightseeing tours, but you can disembark at various points and join up later with the next passing group.

By Trolley -- Although the system is too limited for most San Diegans to use for work commutes, the San Diego Trolley is great for visitors, particularly if you're staying downtown or plan to visit Tijuana. There are three routes. The Blue Line is the one that is the handiest for most visitors: It travels from the Mexican border (San Ysidro) north through downtown and Old Town. The Orange Line runs from downtown east through Lemon Grove and El Cajon. The Green Line runs from Old Town through Mission Valley to Qualcomm Stadium, San Diego State University, and on to Santee. The trip to the border crossing takes about 50 minutes from downtown; from downtown to Old Town takes 10 to 15 minutes. For a route map, see the inside front cover of this guide. Note: The trolley system is being upgraded with new vehicles that require construction of different platforms; some stations may be closed on weekends (shuttle buses will service shuttered stations). When the upgrades are completed in 2015, the Green Line will be extended to downtown.

Trolleys operate on a self-service fare-collection system; riders buy tickets from machines in stations before boarding (some machines require exact change). It's a flat fare of $2.50 for travel between any two stations; a $5 day pass is also available, good for all trolley trips and most bus routes. Fare inspectors board trains at random to check tickets.

The lines run every 15 minutes during the day and every 30 minutes at night; during peak weekday rush hours the Blue Line runs every 10 minutes. There is also expanded service to accommodate events at PETCO Park and Qualcomm Stadium. Trolleys stop at each station for only 30 seconds. To open the door for boarding, push the lighted green button; to open the door to exit the trolley, push the lighted white button.

For recorded transit information, call tel. 619/685-4900. To speak with a customer service representative, call tel. 619/233-3004 (TTY/TDD 619/234-5005) daily from 5:30am to 8:30pm. For wheelchair lift info, call tel. 619/595-4960. The trolley generally operates daily from 4 or 5am to about midnight; the Blue Line provides service until 1am; check the website at www.transit.511sd.com for details.

By Taxi -- Half a dozen taxi companies serve the area. Rates are based on mileage and can add up quickly in sprawling San Diego -- a trip from downtown to La Jolla will cost about $30 to $35. Other than in the Gaslamp Quarter after dark, taxis don't cruise the streets as they do in other cities, so you have to call ahead for quick pickup; there are also cab stands at Horton Plaza (on Broadway Circle, in front of the Lyceum Theatre) and the zoo. If you're at a hotel or restaurant, the front-desk attendant or concierge will call one for you. Among the local companies are Orange Cab (tel. 619/291-3333), San Diego Cab (tel. 619/226-8294), and Yellow Cab (tel. 619/444-4444). The Coronado Cab Company (tel. 619/435-6211) serves Coronado. You can also just dial tel. 511 and say "taxi" and you will be connected to a dispatcher. There is no pick-up from Coronado or at the airport with this service (but you can be dropped off at those locations).

By Water

By Ferry -- There's regularly scheduled ferry service between San Diego and Coronado (tel. 800/442-7847 or 619/234-4111; www.flagshipsd.com). Ferries leave from the Broadway Pier (1050 N. Harbor Dr., at the intersection with Broadway) and the Fifth Avenue Landing (600 Convention Way, located behind the Convention Center). Broadway Pier departures are scheduled daily on the hour from 9am to 9pm, and Friday and Saturday until 10pm. They return from the Ferry Landing in Coronado to the Broadway Pier Sunday through Thursday every hour on the half-hour from 9:30am to 9:30pm and Friday and Saturday until 10:30pm. Trips from the Convention Center depart about every 2 hours beginning at 9:25am, with the final departure at 8:25pm (10:25pm Fri and Sat); return trips begin at 9:17am, then run about every 2 hours thereafter until 8:17pm (10:17pm Fri and Sat). Commuter ferries depart from the Broadway Pier hourly from 5:15am to 8:10am. The ride takes 15 minutes. The fare is $4.25 each way; buy tickets at the Flagship (formerly known as San Diego Harbor Excursion) kiosk on Broadway Pier, the Fifth Avenue Landing, or at the Ferry Landing in Coronado (vending machines take cash or credit cards). The ferries do not accommodate cars.

By Water Taxi -- Water taxis (tel. 619/235-8294; www.flaghsipsd.com) will pick you up from any dock around San Diego Bay and operate Sunday through Thursday from 9am to 9pm, and Friday and Saturday 9am to 11pm. If you're staying in a downtown hotel, this is a great way to get to Coronado. Boats are sometimes available at the spur of the moment, but reservations are advised. Fares are $7 per person to most locations.

By Bicycle

San Diego is ideal for exploration by bicycle, and many roads have designated bike lanes. Bikes are available for rent in most areas.

San Diego iCommute publishes a comprehensive map of the county detailing bike paths (for exclusive use by bicyclists), bike lanes (alongside motor vehicle ways), and bike routes (shared ways designated only by bike-symbol signs). The free San Diego Regional Bike Map is available online at www.511sd.com, or by calling tel. 511 or 619/699-1900; it can also be found at visitor centers. The San Diego County Bicycle Coalition (tel. 858/487-6063; www.sdcbc.org) is also a great resource. For more in-depth information, track down Cycling San Diego by Nelson Copp and Jerry Schad.

It's possible to take your two-wheeler on the city's public transportation. For buses, let the driver know you want to stow your bike on the front of the bus, then board and pay the regular fare. The trolley also lets you bring your bike on the trolley for free. Bikers can board at any entrance except the first set of doors behind the driver; the bike-storage area is at the back of each car. The cars carry two bikes except during weekday rush hours, when the limit is one bike per car. For more information, call the Transit Information Line (tel. 619/233-3004). Bikes are also permitted on the ferry connecting San Diego and Coronado, which has 15 miles of dedicated bike paths.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies. TravelChums (www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site. Many reputable tour companies also offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only escorted tours. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers "Singles + Solos" active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (www.istc.org) website for travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It can also provide students with basic health and life insurance, as well as a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 134-782 in Australia, or 0871/2-300-040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people; it entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887, or 866/246-9762 in Canada; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Tucked into the sunny and parched southwest corner of the United States, San Diego is situated in one of the country's most naturally beautiful metropolitan settings. Learning the lay of the land is neither confusing nor daunting, but it helps to understand a few geographical features. Two major characteristics give San Diego its topographical personality: a superb and varied coastline; and a series of mesas bisected by inland canyons inhabited by coyotes, skunks, and raccoons.

San Diego's downtown -- 16 miles north of the Mexico border -- sits at the edge of a large natural harbor, the San Diego Bay. The harbor is almost enclosed by two fingers of land: flat Coronado "Island" on one side, and peninsular Point Loma on the other. Both of these areas hold important military bases, bordered by classic neighborhoods dating to the 1890s and 1920s, respectively.

Heading north from Point Loma is Mission Bay, a lagoon that was carved out of an estuary in the 1940s and is now a watersports playground. A series of communities is found along the beach-lined coast: Ocean Beach, Mission Beach, Pacific Beach, La Jolla, and, just outside San Diego's city limits, Del Mar. To the south of downtown, you'll find National City, which is distinguished by shipyards on its bay side, then Chula Vista, and San Ysidro, which ends abruptly at the border (and where the huge city of Tijuana begins, equally abruptly).

Inland is Mission Valley, a mile-wide canyon that runs east-west, 2 miles north of downtown. Half a century ago, the valley held little beyond a few dairy farms, California's first mission, and the San Diego River (which is more like a creek most of the year). Then I-8 was built through the valley, followed by a shopping center, a sports stadium, another shopping center, and lots of condos. Today, Mission Valley is the most congested -- and least charming -- part of the city.

In spite of this, residents all use the valley, and many live along its perimeter: On the southern rim are older neighborhoods such as Mission Hills, Hillcrest, Normal Heights, and Kensington; to the north are Linda Vista and Kearny Mesa (bedroom communities that emerged in the 1950s), and Miramar Naval Air Station. Just outside and to the north of the city limits is Rancho Bernardo, a quiet, clubby suburb.

The city of San Diego possesses one other vital (if man-made) ingredient: Balboa Park. Laid out in a 1,400-acre square between downtown and Mission Valley, the park contains the San Diego Zoo, many of the city's best museums, theaters (including the Tony Award-winning Old Globe), wonderful gardens, recreational facilities, and splendid architecture.

Coronado -- Locals refer to Coronado as an island, but it's actually on a peninsula connected to the mainland by a long, sandy isthmus known as the Silver Strand. It's a wealthy, self-contained community inhabited by lots of retired Navy brass living on quiet, tree-lined streets. The northern portion of the city is home to Naval Base Coronado (also referred to as U.S. Naval Air Station, North Island), in use since World War I. The southern part of Coronado, with its architecturally rich neighborhoods, features some of the region's priciest real estate, and has a long history as an elite playground for snowbirds. Shops line the main street, Orange Avenue, and you'll find several ritzy resorts, including the landmark Hotel del Coronado, referred to locally as the "Hotel Del." Coronado has a lovely dune beach (one of the area's finest), plenty of restaurants, and a downtown reminiscent of a small Midwestern town.

Downtown -- After decades of intense development and restoration, downtown San Diego has emerged as a vibrant neighborhood with attractions that have become a magnet for travelers and locals alike. It's the business, shopping, dining, and entertainment heart of the city, encompassing Horton Plaza, the Gaslamp Quarter, the Embarcadero (waterfront), the Convention Center, and Little Italy, all sprawling over eight individual "neighborhoods." The Gaslamp Quarter is the center of a massive redevelopment kicked off in the mid-1980s with the opening of the Horton Plaza shopping complex; the area now features renovated historic buildings housing some of the city's top restaurants and clubs. Immediately east of the Gaslamp is the East Village, where you'll find PETCO Park, home of the San Diego Padres Major League Baseball team since 2004. Little Italy, a bustling neighborhood along India Street and Kettner Boulevard, between Cedar and Laurel streets, at the northern edge of downtown, has also undergone a renaissance. It's a great place to find a variety of restaurants (especially Italian) and boutiques.

Hillcrest & Uptown -- Part of Hillcrest's charm is the number of people out walking, shopping, and just hanging out. As the city's original self-contained suburb, first developed in 1907, it was also the desirable address for bankers and bureaucrats to erect their mansions. Now it's the heart of San Diego's gay and lesbian community, but it's an inclusive neighborhood, charming everyone with an eclectic blend of popular shops and cafes. Despite the cachet of being close to Balboa Park (home of the San Diego Zoo and numerous museums), the area fell into neglect in the 1960s. By the late 1970s, however, legions of preservation-minded residents began restoring Hillcrest. Other old Uptown neighborhoods of interest are Mission Hills to the west of Hillcrest, and University Heights, Normal Heights, North Park, South Park, Golden Hill, and Kensington to the east.

Mission Bay & the Beaches -- Casual is the word of the day here. Come here when you want to wiggle your toes in the sand, feel the sun warm your skin, exert yourself in recreational activities, and cool off in the blue ocean waters. Mission Bay is a watery playground perfect for waterskiing, sailing, kayaking, and windsurfing. The adjacent communities of Ocean Beach, Mission Beach, and Pacific Beach are known for their wide stretches of sand, active nightlife, and informal dining. If you've come for the SoCal beach lifestyle, this is where you'll find it. The boardwalk, which runs from South Mission Beach to Pacific Beach, is a popular place for in-line skating, bike riding, people-watching, and sunsets.

La Jolla -- Mediterranean in design and ambience, La Jolla is the Southern California Riviera. This seaside community of about 25,000 is home to an inordinate number of wealthy folks who could probably live anywhere. They choose La Jolla for good reason -- it features gorgeous coastline, outstanding restaurants, upscale shops, galleries, and some of the world's best medical facilities, as well as the University of California, San Diego (UCSD). The heart of La Jolla is referred to as the Village, roughly delineated by Pearl Street to the south, Prospect Street to the north, Torrey Pines Road to the east, and the rugged coast to the west. This is a picturesque neighborhood, which makes it perfect for simply strolling about. It's uncertain whether "La Jolla" (pronounced La-hoy-ya) is misspelled Spanish for "the jewel" or a native people's word for "cave," but once you see it, you'll no doubt go with the first definition.

Old Town & Mission Valley -- These two busy areas wrap around the neighborhood of Mission Hills. On one end are the Old Town State Historic Park (where California "began") and several museums that document the city's beginnings. Old Town is said to attract more visitors than any other site in San Diego -- it's where you can steep yourself in history while eating and shopping to your stomach and heart's content. Not far from Old Town lies the vast suburban sprawl of Mission Valley, a tribute to the automobile and to a more modern style of prosperity. Its main street, aptly named Hotel Circle, is lined with a string of moderately priced hotels as an alternative to the ritzier neighborhoods. In recent years, condo developments have made the valley a residential area and a traffic nightmare.

Off the Beaten Path: North Park & Beyond

To the northeast of Balboa Park is North Park, one of San Diego's original suburbs. Established in 1911, this mixed-use residential and commercial district was scraped out of a lemon grove, and thrived until the 1970s and 1980s. The neighborhood then went into decline, but recent gentrification has brought it roaring back to life. North Park was also the site of the worst aviation disaster in California history. On September 25, 1978, PSA Flight 182 collided in mid-air with a small plane over the community, killing 144 people, including 7 on the ground, and destroying or damaging 22 homes.

North Park's turnaround is best exemplified by the 2005 renovation of the fabulous Birch North Park Theatre, a 1928 vaudeville house where a variety of performing arts groups now strut their stuff. Eveoke Dance Theatre has established a permanent home nearby, as well. The area's lively scene gets monthly showcases with the Ray at Night Art Walk (www.rayatnightartwalk.com), the second Saturday of the month from 6 to 10pm, and North Park Nights (www.northparknights.org), held the third Saturday of every month from 6 to 11pm.

Dining makes a strong showing here, too, with Mission, Spread, Urban Solace, Jayne's Gastropub, and Ranchos Cocina. There are great tacos and 145 tequilas available at Cantina Mayahuel (2934 Adams Ave.; tel. 619/283-6292; www.cantinamayahuel.com), while "gastro-cantina" El Take It Easy (3926 30th St.; tel. 619/291-1859; www.eltakeiteasy.com) ups the ante on Mexican food with its creative menu. Meat lovers will have a field day with the quality sausages at the Linkery and the gourmet burgers (more than 30) at Tioli's Crazee Burger; there's also an ever-changing menu of contemporary American fare at The Smoking Goat (3408 30th St.; tel. 619/955-5295; www.thesmokinggoatrestaurant.com). And don't forget to save room for something sweet from Heaven Sent Desserts (3001 University Ave.; tel. 619/793-4758; www.heavensentdesserts.com). Other eateries making noise on the dining front include URBN Coal Fired Pizza/Bar (3085 University Ave.; tel. 619/255-7300; www.urnbnorthpark.com), Sea Rocket Bistro (3382 30th St.; tel. 619/255-7049; www.searocketbistro.com), and Farm House Café (2121 Adams Ave.; tel. 619/269-9662; www.farmhousecafesd.com).

By day there's shopping at independent boutiques and vintage stores; by night, check out a few of the hipster haunts such as Air Conditioned (4673 30th St.; tel. 619/501-9831; www.airconditionedbar.com), Bar Pink (3829 30th St.; tel. 619/564-7194; www.barpink.com), U-31 (3112 University Ave.; tel. 619/584-4188; www.u31bar.com), and Live Wire (2103 El Cajon Blvd.; tel. 619/291-7450; www.livewirebar.com). The Toronado (4026 30th St.; tel. 619/282-0456; www.toronadosd.com) has 50 beers on draft, and the Red Fox Steak House (2223 El Cajon Blvd.; tel. 619/296-2101; www.lafayettehotelsd.com) has an old-school piano bar.

And if you really need your morning edition of Le Monde, you can find it at Paras Newsstand, the city's best (3911 30th St.; tel. 619/296-2859).

In addition to North Park, there's also a neighborhood called South Park (which is actually east of Balboa Park), and it blends into Golden Hill at the park's southeastern corner. Both neighborhoods have architectural gems including meticulously preserved Victorian mansions and Craftsman bungalows. And both areas have a crop of bars and restaurants worth investigating, including the neighborhood bistros Alchemy (1503 30th St.; tel. 619/255-0616; www.alchemysandiego.com) and Vagabond (2310 30th St.; tel. 619/255-1035; www.vagabondkitchen.com). There's also the retro Turf Supper Club, the Whistle Stop Bar (2236 Fern St.; tel. 619/284-6784; www.whistlestopbar.com), Hamilton's Tavern (1521 30th St.; tel. 619/238-5460; www.hamiltonstavern.com), and Influx Cafe (1948 Broadway; tel. 619/255-9470; www.influxcafe.com), with its minimalist-chic decor and home-baked goods. The funky breakfast spot known as the Big Kitchen (3003 Grape St.; tel. 619/234-5789; www.bigkitchencafe.com) is a local institution -- it's where a pre-fame Whoopi Goldberg once worked.

Escorted & Package Tours

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Surrounded by ocean, mountains, and desert, San Diego's prime location makes quick getaways to commune with nature a snap. For organized tours of the region, two great resources are the San Diego Natural History Museum and the Birch Aquarium at Scripps. Each offers guided outings, such as day hikes or grunion hunts, as well as multiday excursions, including trips to the desert or to the Pacific gray whale breeding lagoons in Baja California.

In the Anza-Borrego Desert, California Overland will guide you through otherworldly landscapes on trips lasting anywhere from a few hours to 2 days. They provide all the gear and do all the cooking on the overnight trips -- all you have to do is sit back and enjoy the campfire and the spectacular display of stars overhead.

For an unforgettable immersion in Baja wilderness (but with plenty of creature comforts), check out Baja Airventures (tel. 800/221-9283; www.bajaairventures.com), which will fly you in a small plane from San Diego to remote parts of the Baja peninsula for personalized tours that can encompass fishing, surfing, snorkeling, kayaking, or just snoozing in a hammock.

Stateside, Hike Bike Kayak is a one-stop shop for outdoor activities in San Diego. You can arrange everything from a surfing lesson to exploring La Jolla's sea caves via kayak (you can even set up a full-day, three-sport combo package).

The region is also home to a number of wellness spas, including Rancho La Puerta, which was founded in 1940 just across the border in Tecate, Mexico. This groundbreaking venture pioneered the concept of the destination spa, where feel-good massages take a back seat to mind-and-body workouts.

Holistic guru Deepak Chopra has also set up shop in San Diego with his Chopra Center for Wellbeing, located at La Costa Resort and Spa. Here you'll find an array of classes and treatments, as well as a gift shop. At Warner Springs Ranch in the Cleveland National Forest, you can soak in the healthful mineral water, and also enjoy horseback riding, golf, and hiking (all at a fraction of the cost of the upscale wellness resorts).

Food & Wine Trips

San Diego is adjacent to two prolific wine regions: Temecula Valley to the north, just across the Riverside County line, and to the south, the Valle de Guadalupe, where you will find Mexico's most important wineries. Either makes for an easy day trip, with plenty of overnight options, as well. You can also sample some of San Diego's renowned beers without having to worry about a designated driver. Brew Hop and Brewery Tours of San Diego can guide you to the city's top brewers.

San Diego's rising foodie profile can be experienced firsthand via wine and cooking classes at the Balboa Park Food & Wine School (tel. 619/557-9441; www.balboafoodwine.com). This top-notch operation is located at the gorgeous House of Hospitality in the heart of Balboa Park and is operated by the folks who run the Prado restaurant. If things get too hot in the kitchen for you here, you can just step out onto the terrace with its wonderful views of the park.

The San Diego Wine & Culinary Center, 200 Harbor Dr., Ste. 120 (tel. 619/231-6400; www.sdwineculinary.com), is conveniently located just across the trolley tracks from the Convention Center. It offers a variety of classes, as well as food and wine events. To top it off, there's a wine bar and jazz club here, as well.

Great News!, 1788 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach (tel. 888/478-2433 or 858/270-1582; www.great-news.com), has been a fixture in San Diego since 1977. Cooking classes in the state-of-the-art kitchen run the seasonal and ethnic gamut; plus they sell just about any piece of cookware or food gadget you could ever want.

Guided Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Collette Tours (tel. 800/340-5158; www.collettevacations.com), Globus (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusjourneys.com), and Tauck World Discovery (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com) each offer California coastal tours that hit the state's highlights, from San Francisco to San Diego.

Walking Tours

San Diego's distinct neighborhoods lend themselves to exploration by foot, and there are plenty of options for guided walking tours, many of them free.

You can learn the history of the vibrant Gaslamp Quarter with a Saturday morning tour from the Gaslamp Quarter Historical Foundation, while Walkabout International offers dozens of free walking tours all across the county, including wilderness hikes. The San Diego Natural History Museum is another great resource for free guided nature hikes; and at sublime parks such as Torrey Pines State Reserve, Cabrillo National Monument, and Mission Trails Regional Park, rangers also lead regularly scheduled walks.

When to Go

San Diego is blessed with a mild climate, low humidity, and good air quality. In fact, Pleasant Weather Rankings, published by Consumer Travel, ranked San Diego's weather no. 2 in the world. It's worth keeping in mind, though, that San Diego County covers more than 4,500 square miles and rises in elevation from sea level to 6,500 feet. It can be a pleasant day on the coast but blisteringly hot on the inland mesas; or it can be a foggy day at the beach but gloriously sunny just minutes away downtown.

With its coastal setting, the city of San Diego maintains a moderate climate. Although the temperature can change 20° to 30°F between day and evening, it rarely reaches a point of extreme heat or cold; daytime highs above 100°F (38°C) are unusual, and the mercury dropping below freezing can be counted in mere hours once or twice each year. San Diego receives very little precipitation (just 10 in. of rainfall in an average year); what rain does fall comes primarily between November and April, and by July, the hillsides start to look brown and parched. It's not unusual for the city to go without measurable precipitation for as long as 6 months in the summer and fall.

Perhaps the best time of year in San Diego is the fall. The days are still warm (even hot), and the cool nights remind you that yes, even in Southern California, there is a change of seasons. February and March are also beautiful periods when the landscapes are greenest and blooming flowers at their peak, although it's still too cold for all but the heartiest people to go into the ocean without a wet suit. Beachgoers should note that late spring and early summer tanning sessions are often compromised by a local phenomenon called May Gray and June Gloom -- a layer of low-lying clouds or fog along the coast that doesn't burn off until noon (if at all) and returns before sunset. Use days like these to explore inland San Diego, where places such as the Zoo Safari Park are probably warm and clear.

A more unpredictable Southern California phenomenon is the hot, dry winds known as Santa Anas. They usually hit a couple times a year, typically between September and December, and can last for several days. These desiccating winds heighten wildfire danger and can be a backcountry firefighter's worst nightmare, but Santa Anas invariably bring warm temperatures and crystal-clear skies. Occurring irregularly every 2 to 7 years, the El Niño weather pattern -- storms created by a warming of Pacific Ocean waters -- can cause unusually heavy winter rains. A 1988 El Niño storm even toppled a research platform off Mission Beach (it can now be explored by divers as part of San Diego's Wreck Alley).

San Diego is busiest between Memorial Day and Labor Day. The kids are out of school and everyone wants to be by the seashore; if you visit in summer, expect fully booked beachfront hotels and crowded parking lots. The week of the July 4th holiday is a zoo at Mission Beach and Pacific Beach -- you'll either love it or hate it. But San Diego's popularity as a convention destination and its temperate year-round weather keep the tourism business steady the rest of the year, as well. The only slow season is from Thanksgiving to early February. Hotels are less full, and the beaches are peaceful and uncrowded; the big family attractions are still busy on weekends, though, with residents taking advantage of holiday breaks. A local secret: Although they're in the coolest, rainiest season (relatively speaking, anyway), November through February are also the sunniest months of the year.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- San Diego's main area code is 619, used primarily by downtown, uptown, Mission Valley, Point Loma, Coronado, La Mesa, El Cajon, and Chula Vista. The area code 858 is used for northern and coastal areas, including Mission Beach, Pacific Beach, La Jolla, Del Mar, Rancho Santa Fe, and Rancho Bernardo. Use 760 to reach the remainder of San Diego County, including Encinitas, Carlsbad, Oceanside, Escondido, Ramona, Julian, and Anza-Borrego.

Business Hours -- Banks are open weekdays from 9am to 4pm or later, and sometimes Saturday morning. Stores in shopping malls tend to operate from 10 or 11am until about 9pm weekdays and until 6pm weekends, and are open on secondary holidays.

Doctors -- In a life-threatening situation, dial tel. 911. For a doctor referral, contact the San Diego County Medical Society (tel. 858/565-8888; www.sdcms.org) or Scripps Health (tel. 800/727-4777; www.scripps.org). For dental referrals, contact the San Diego County Dental Society at tel. 800/201-0244 or 619/275-0244 (www.sdcds.org), or call tel. 1-800/DENTIST (336-8478; [866/993-9546]; www.1800dentist.com).

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages in California is 21. Proof of age is a necessity -- it's requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, even from those well into their 30s and 40s, so always bring ID when you go out. Beer, wine, and hard liquor are sold daily from 6am to 2am and are available in grocery stores.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or at any public area not zoned for alcohol consumption -- the police can fine you on the spot. Alcohol is forbidden at all city beaches, boardwalks, and coastal parks. Pay heed or pay the price: First-time violators face a $250 fine.

Nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for a complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 for fire, police, and ambulance. The TTY/TDD emergency number is tel. 619/233-3323. The main police station is at 1401 Broadway, at 14th Street (tel. 619/531-2000; from North San Diego call tel. 858/484-3154).

If you encounter serious problems, contact the San Diego chapter of Traveler's Aid International (www.travelersaid.org), which has locations at the airport (tel. 619/295-1277) and at 110 W. C St., Ste. 1209 (tel. 619/295-8393). This nationwide, nonprofit, social-service organization geared to helping travelers in difficult straits offers services that might include reuniting families separated while traveling, providing food and/or shelter to people stranded without cash, or even emotional counseling. If you're in trouble, seek them out.

Hospitals -- Near downtown San Diego, UCSD Medical Center-Hillcrest, 200 W. Arbor Dr. (tel. 619/543-6222; http://health.ucsd.edu), has the most convenient emergency room. In La Jolla, UCSD Thornton Hospital, 9300 Campus Point Dr. (tel. 858/657-7000; http://health.ucsd.edu), has a good emergency room, and you'll find another in Coronado, at Sharp Coronado Hospital, 250 Prospect Place, opposite the Marriott Resort (tel. 619/522-3600; www.sharp.com).

Insurance -- Although it's not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home -- but check your coverage before you leave.

International visitors to the U.S. should note that unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information, go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate Postage." Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month.

San Diego's main post office is located in the boondocks, but the former main office, located just west of Old Town at 2535 Midway Dr., is a good alternative; it's open Monday from 7am to 5pm, Tuesday through Friday from 8am to 5pm, and Saturdays from 8am to 4pm. There are also downtown post offices at 815 E St. (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) and at 51 Horton Plaza, next to the Westin Hotel (Mon-Fri 9:30am-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm). There is a post office in the Mission Valley Shopping Center, next to Macy's (Mon-Fri 9:30am-6pm, Sat 9:30am-4pm).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The San Diego Union-Tribune is published daily, and its entertainment section, "Night & Day," is in the Thursday edition; "Night & Day" is also distributed around the city for free. The free San Diego Weekly Reader is published Thursdays and is available at many shops, restaurants, theaters, and public hot spots; it's the best source for up-to-the-week club and show listings. The free alternative weekly San Diego CityBeat is distributed on Wednesdays. It also has listings and can get you up-to-speed on local issues and local music. San Diego magazine has covered all aspects of the city since 1948, and is plumped with social news and dining listings. San Diego Home/Garden Lifestyles magazine highlights design and art, and also includes articles about Southern California gardening and the local restaurant scene. Both magazines are published monthly and sold at newsstands. The Los Angeles Times, the New York Times, and USA Today are widely available. International publications are available at Paras Newsstand, 3911 30th St. (tel. 619/296-2859), in North Park.

Packing -- There's rarely need for a heavy coat in San Diego, but May Gray and June Gloom make things cooler and damper than many visitors anticipate. Be prepared with a light coat or sweater. San Diego is also very casual, meaning you can show up at a restaurant or theater wearing just about anything you want. The only dress codes you'll really find are at downtown clubs, where people tend to dress to impress.

For more helpful information on packing for your trip download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- The downtown police station is at 1401 Broadway (tel. 619/531-2000; from North San Diego call tel. 858/484-3154; www.sandiego.gov/police). Call tel. 911 in an emergency; the TTY/TDD emergency number is tel. 619/233-3323.

Smoking -- Smoking is prohibited in nearly all indoor public places, including theaters, hotel lobbies, and enclosed shopping malls. In 1998, California enacted legislation prohibiting smoking in all restaurants and bars, except those with outdoor seating. Smoking in a car in which a child under age 17 is riding is illegal, as well. San Diego has also banned smoking from all city beaches, boardwalks, piers, and parks, which includes Mission Bay Park and Balboa Park. Be forewarned: Fines start at $250.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. In San Diego, sales tax in restaurants and shops is 8.75%. Hotel tax is 10.5%, or 12.5% for lodgings with more than 70 rooms.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in San Diego (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

San Diego, like the rest of the West Coast, is in the Pacific Standard Time zone, which is 8 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools for you mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of some workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor.) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cabdrivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Horton Plaza and Seaport Village downtown, Balboa Park, Old Town State Historic Park in Old Town, and the Ferry Landing Marketplace in Coronado all have well-marked public restrooms. In general, you won't have a problem finding one; they are usually clean and accessible.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates. For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

The cost of living is not cheap in San Diego, but it's still a moderately priced destination compared with New York, London, or Tokyo. It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks or prepaid debit card. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

Nationwide, the easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine," or "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad.

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. It's highly recommended you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Many of us wouldn't dream of going on vacation without our pets. And these days, more and more lodgings and restaurants are going the pet-friendly route. The Loews Coronado Bay Resort, W San Diego, Hotel Indigo, and Hotel Solamar, in particular, go out of their way to welcome pets. Many San Diegans congregate with their canine friends at Dog Beach, at the north end of Ocean Beach, where dogs can swim, play, and socialize. After your pooch is thoroughly coated in seawater and sand, take him to the do-it-yourself Dog Beach Dog Wash, 2 blocks away at 4933 Voltaire St. (tel. 619/523-1700; www.dogwash.com). Nate's Point in Balboa Park is another favored place to let your pooch run loose. It's at the west end of the park, on the south side of Cabrillo Bridge.

Good resources include www.petswelcome.com, which dispenses medical tips, names of animal-friendly lodgings and campgrounds, and lists of kennels and veterinarians; www.pettravel.com; and www.travelpets.com.

If you plan to fly with your pet, a list of requirements for transporting live animals is available at http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/publications/animals.htm. You may be able to carry your pet on board a plane if that pet is small enough to put inside a carrier that can slip under the seat. Pets usually count as one piece of carry-on luggage. The ASPCA discourages travelers from checking pets as luggage at any time, as storage conditions on planes are loosely monitored, and fatal accidents are not unprecedented. Your other option is to ship your pet with a professional carrier, which can be expensive. Ask your vet whether you should sedate your pet on a plane ride or give it anti-nausea medication. Never give your pet sedatives used by humans.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you're better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from public pay phones in most locales cost either 35¢ or 50¢. Pay phones do not accept pennies, and few will take anything larger than a quarter.

Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line. Specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1 and then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use them). Many hotel rooms are even wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at places such as The UPS Store (www.theupsstore.com).

Mobile Phones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work everywhere in the U.S. It's a good bet your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com), but beware that you'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won't work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

In a worst-case scenario, you can always rent a phone; in San Diego, BearCom, 8290 Vickers St., Ste. D (tel. 877/706-2327 or 858/430-2327; www.bearcom.com), delivers to hotels within the metro area. And, you can purchase relatively inexpensive "pay as you go" phones almost everywhere, if your phone doesn't have coverage or has high roaming charges.

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & Wi-Fi

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Wi-Fi is found in campgrounds, RV parks, and even entire towns. Downtown's Gaslamp Quarter offers 2 hours of free Wi-Fi from any public space (go to www.freewifisandiego.com for information). To find other public Wi-Fi hotspots, check www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels in the U.S. offer dataports for laptop modems; bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, and an Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them.

If you don't have a computer with you, try www.cybercaptive.com or www.cybercafe.com to hunt for one of the city's steadily disappearing cybercafes. Better options are business-service shops such as FedEx Office (www.fedex.com/office) and public libraries (search www.sandiego.gov/public-library to find the nearest location before you leave home).

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship. Note: These rules are in effect for U.S. citizens who wish to visit Tijuana for the day, as well.

It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. It is also important to note when your passport expires. In general, your passport should have at least 6 months left before its expiration; the U.S. does have an agreement with many countries (including Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, and the U.K.) that allows for use of a current passport up to the actual date of expiration. If you are traveling without a visa, though, you will only be admitted until the date of your passport's expiration. For other information, contact the following passport offices:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult www.travel.state.gov/visa.)

Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to www.travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 U.S. quart of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is prohibited since they may harbor pests or disease. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

For information on what you're allowed to take home, contact one of the following agencies:

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440 or 301/315-2816 outside the U.S., TTY 888/480-3739; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 800/243-7692 or 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Tips for Multicultural Travelers

Although San Diego has a reputation as a predominantly white, middle-class, conservative-leaning metropolis, a closer look reveals a more diverse picture: 25% of the city's inhabitants are Hispanic, 14% are Asian, and 8% are African American. The San Diego Art + Sol website (www.sandiegoartandsol.com) is an excellent place to get additional information on the city's contemporary cultural attractions; it also features a variety of touring itineraries.

The San Diego Museum of Man covers 4 million years of hominid history, with a particular focus on the native heritage of the Americas. The history of San Diego's indigenous peoples is related at Mission Trails Regional Park and the Junípero Serra Museum.

With the Mexican border just 16 miles from downtown San Diego, Mexico's influence is unmistakable, and Spanish street and place names are prevalent. The Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá, Junípero Serra Museum, and Old Town showcase Spanish-Mexican history, while contemporary culture is reflected in the murals of Chicano Park (tel. 619/563-4661; www.chicano-park.org) under the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge. Voz Alta, 1754 National Ave. (www.vozaltaproject.org), is a gathering spot in Barrio Logan for writers, artists, and musicians with a Chicano bent that hosts concerts, art exhibits, poetry slams, and other events. The Centro Cultural de la Raza in Balboa Park offers classes, live entertainment, and gallery exhibits.

Cinco de Mayo (May 5) is a huge celebration in Old Town, but any day is great for shopping for Latin-American handicrafts at Bazaar del Mundo or Fiesta de Reyes. Americanized Mexican food is ubiquitous, but for a taste of the real Mexico, try El Agave Tequileria, or head south of the border. While in Tijuana, be sure to visit the excellent Centro Cultural Tijuana, which covers the history, contemporary art, culture, and performing arts of Baja California and the rest of Mexico.

Initially lured by the California gold rush in the 1850s, a small Chinese community came to live in San Diego and controlled much of the fishing industry until 1890; Chinese also helped build (and later staff) the Hotel del Coronado. Chinatown -- downtown, south of Market Street -- eventually merged with the rough-and-tumble Stingaree, San Diego's red-light district. At the turn of the last century, the area was a hub of gambling, prostitution, and opium dens, and Chinese families ran notorious saloons such as the Old Tub of Blood and the Seven Buckets of Blood. Today, an Asian/Pacific Historic District is beginning to materialize, concentrated between Market and J streets, and between Third and Fifth avenues. Eighteen buildings in this area have strong historical ties to the Asian/Pacific-American community. Also here is the San Diego Chinese Historical Museum, which offers walking tours of the old Chinatown the second Saturday of the month.

An African presence has also been felt in small but important ways throughout San Diego history. Black slaves were part of Juan Cabrillo's expedition along the California coast in 1542, and Pío Pico, a San Diegan who became the last Mexican governor of California before it was annexed by the United States, was of African descent. The Clermont Hotel, 501 Seventh Ave., is nondescript but socially significant -- it was built in 1887 and was one of the city's first black-owned businesses. A segregated hotel "for colored people" until 1956, it may be the oldest surviving historically black hotel in the nation and was designated an African-American landmark in 2001.

In Old Town, the ramshackle Casa del Rey Moro African Museum, 2471 Congress St. (tel. 619/220-0022; www.ambers.com), provides a scholarly look at black history, with a special emphasis on how it has played out in San Diego and California. The WorldBeat Center in Balboa Park produces reggae and African music concerts, has a variety of classes, a gift shop, and even runs its own radio station. In the mountains east of San Diego, you'll find the Julian Gold Rush Hotel, built in 1897 by freed slave Albert Robinson. The town itself was founded after gold was discovered in 1869 by another freed slave, Frederick Coleman. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations. The section on San Diego is fairly detailed and has a calendar of events.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in the United States. There are more options and resources out there than ever before, and San Diego is one of the most accessible cities in the country. Most of the city's major attractions are wheelchair friendly, including the walkways and museums of Balboa Park, the San Diego Zoo (which has bus tours to navigate the steep canyons), SeaWorld, the Zoo Safari Park, and downtown's Gaslamp Quarter. Old Town and the beaches require a little more effort, but are generally accessible.

Manual wheelchairs with balloon tires are available free of charge daily at the main lifeguard stations in Ocean Beach, Mission Beach, Pacific Beach, La Jolla, and Del Mar, among others. Beach conditions permitting, the Mission Beach, Coronado, and Oceanside lifeguard stations have electric wheelchairs available. Mission Beach hours are daily (except Tues) 11:30am to 4:30pm from May through October, and Friday to Sunday, 11:30am to 3:30pm, from November through April (tel. 619/525-8247 or 619/980-0275). For Coronado information call tel. 619/435-0126; for Del Mar, tel. 858/755-1556; and for Oceanside, tel. 760/435-4018.

Obtain more specific information from Accessible San Diego (tel. 619/325-7550; www.asd.travel), the nation's oldest center for information for travelers with disabilities. The center has an info line that helps travelers find accessible hotels, tours, attractions, and transportation. The annual Access in San Diego pamphlet, a citywide guide with specifics on which establishments are accessible for those with visual, mobility, or hearing disabilities can be ordered online for $7.50; a downloadable version can be purchased for $5.

On buses and trolleys, riders with disabilities pay a fixed fare of $1.10. Because discounted fares are subsidized, technically you must obtain a Transit Travel ID from the Transit Store (tel. 619/234-1060); the ID card certifies that a rider is eligible for the discount, but most drivers use visual qualifications to establish criteria. All MTS buses and trolleys are equipped with wheelchair lifts; priority seating is available on buses and trolleys. People with visual impairments benefit from the white reflecting ring that circles the bottom of the trolley door to increase its visibility. Airport transportation for travelers with disabilities is available in vans holding one or two wheelchairs from SuperShuttle (tel. 800/974-8885 or 858/974-8885, TDD 866/472-4497; www.supershuttle.com).

The America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives visually impaired travelers or travelers with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained only in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/225-5667; www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and the Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). Air Ambulance Card (tel. 877/424-7633 or 205/297-0060; www.airambulancecard.com) allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 877/451-5006 or 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

British travelers should contact Tourism for All (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.tourismforall.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and those with disabilities.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Despite its reputation for conservative local politics, San Diego is one of America's gay-friendliest destinations. Over the years, the city has had several openly gay politicians and public officials, including the country's first openly gay district attorney, Bonnie Dumanis. San Diego also has one of the nation's oldest gay and lesbian theater companies, Diversionary Theatre. Gay rights activists have called for a boycott of two San Diego properties -- the Manchester Grand Hyatt and the Grand Del Mar -- whose owner contributed a large sum to the Proposition 8 campaign to outlaw same-sex marriage in the state (as of this writing the ban is still in effect). For more information go to www.sleepwiththerightpeople.org.

Gay and lesbian visitors might already know about Hillcrest, near Balboa Park, the city's most prominent "out" community. Many gay-owned restaurants, boutiques, and nightspots cater to both a gay and straight clientele, and the scene is lively most nights of the week. In the 1990s, the community's residential embrace spread west to Mission Hills, and east along Adams Avenue to Kensington.

The San Diego Gay Rodeo is one of the largest rodeos on the International Gay Rodeo Association circuit, drawing cowboys and cowgirls from across the country for bronco riding and two-stepping. It's held in early summer at the rodeo grounds in the East County city of Lakeside; call tel. 619/993-6818, or visit www.sandiegorodeo.org for more info.

The free San Diego Gay and Lesbian Times (www.gaylesbiantimes.com), published every Thursday, is the most information-packed of several local out publications, and available at the gay and lesbian Obelisk bookstore, 1029 University Ave., Hillcrest (tel. 619/297-4171; www.obeliskbookstore.com), along with other businesses in Hillcrest and neighboring communities. And check out the San Diego Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce online at www.gsdba.org (tel. 619/296-4543). You can search the business directory with its 800-plus members and find a variety of restaurants, cafes, hotels, and other establishments that welcome gay and lesbian clients. The San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau also publishes a pamphlet, San Diego from Gay to Z, with information on gay accommodations and events. For more information or to order the free pamphlet, go to www.sandiego.org. The CVB also has touring suggestions for gay and lesbian visitors on its cultural website, www.sandiegoartandsol.com.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.com) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. Other web sources include OutTraveler.com (www.outtraveler.com), which features information on worldwide destinations, travel tips, and special deals, and the Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca), which offers ideas and advice for international gay travel.

Health & Safety

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns, and for lists of local doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, Travel Health Online, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. Medications are readily available throughout San Diego at various chain drugstores such as Walgreens (www.walgreens.com), Rite-Aid (www.riteaid.com), and CVS (www.cvs.com), which sell pharmaceuticals and nonprescription products. If you need a pharmacy after normal business hours, the following branches are open 24 hours: CVS, 8831 Villa La Jolla Dr., La Jolla (tel. 858/457-4480), and 313 E. Washington St., Hillcrest (tel. 619/291-7170); and Rite-Aid, 535 Robinson Ave., Hillcrest (tel. 619/291-3705). Local hospitals also sell prescription drugs.

For U.S. travelers, most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Safety -- San Diego is a relatively safe destination, by big-city standards. Of the 10 largest cities in the United States, it historically has had the lowest incidence of violent crime per capita. Tijuana, on the other hand, has seen a dramatic rise in violence.

Virtually all areas of San Diego are safe during the day. In Balboa Park, caution is advised in areas not frequented by regular foot traffic (particularly off the walkways on the Sixth Ave. side of the park). Transients are common in San Diego -- especially downtown, in Hillcrest, and in the beach areas. They are rarely a problem but, like anyone, can be unpredictable when under the influence. Downtown areas to the east of PETCO Park are sparsely populated after dusk, and poorly lit.

Parts of the city that are usually safe on foot at night include the Gaslamp Quarter, Hillcrest, Old Town, Mission Valley, Mission Beach, Pacific Beach, La Jolla, and Coronado.

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and keep expensive cameras or electronic equipment bagged or covered when not in use. If you're using a map, try to consult it inconspicuously -- or better yet, study it before you leave your room. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.

Always lock your room door -- don't assume that once you're inside the hotel, you are automatically safe and no longer need to be aware of your surroundings. Hotels are open to the public, and security may not be able to screen everyone who enters.

Driving safety is important too, and carjacking is not unprecedented. Question your rental agency about personal safety, and ask for a traveler-safety brochure when you pick up your car. Obtain written directions -- or a map with the route clearly marked -- from the agency, showing how to get to your destination. San Diego's airport area, where most car-rental firms are based, is generally safe. If you drive off a highway and end up in a dodgy-looking neighborhood, leave the area as quickly as possible. If you have an accident, even on the highway, stay in your car with the doors locked until you assess the situation or until the police arrive. If you're bumped from behind on the street or are involved in a minor accident with no injuries, and the situation appears to be suspicious, motion to the other driver to follow you. Never get out of your car in such situations. Go to the nearest police precinct, well-lit service station, or 24-hour store.

Whenever possible, always park in well-lit and well-traveled areas. Always keep your car doors locked, whether the vehicle is attended or unattended. Never leave packages or valuables in sight. If someone attempts to rob you or steal your car, don't try to resist the thief/carjacker. Report the incident to the police department immediately by calling tel. 911.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In San Diego, and throughout the western United States in general, perhaps the biggest environmental concern can be summed up in one word: water. Drought conditions have pushed supply to the limit, and mandatory water conservation efforts are in effect. Mayor Jerry Sanders has announced proposals that will attempt to curtail water usage by 20% citywide. Golf courses (which lap up some 12 billion gallons annually in San Diego) and resorts with lush landscaping will definitely feel the impact -- businesses are being asked to cut water consumption by 45% outside and 3% inside. For more information, go to www.sandiego.gov/water.

Barona Creek Golf Club is leading the way for the county's golf courses in adapting to the water emergency. Barona has reconfigured its course to include less turf and more bunkers, and has also installed a computerized sprinkler system. Steele Canyon Golf Club has responded as well, investing in its own weather station that constantly monitors how much water the course requires.

Hotel Indigo is the first hotel in San Diego to be awarded LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification. The property features a green roof -- it's covered completely with drought-resistant plants that insulate the building and filter storm water runoff. Many San Diego restaurants are also doing their part, incorporating local, organic, and sustainable products into their menus. Locavore leaders include The Linkery, 9), Zenbu, and Market.

Although San Diego County sprawls, many of its most popular attractions are in close proximity. For a low-impact visit, consider foregoing a rental car. If you're staying in a downtown hotel, Little Italy, Old Town, Mission Valley, Balboa Park, and even Tijuana are easily accessible via public transportation.

Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists and businesses follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org.

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general information on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org. Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Animal Rights Issues

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins or performing-animal shows at facilities such as SeaWorld, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

It's easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.com).

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodation ratings.

• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. Visit Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) to find sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also check out www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.