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Islanders have relied on the Brig for dependable meals in a comfy setting among friends since 1973. Redesigns have added a horseshoe-shaped bar and banquet room but left the wood-paneled, nautical dining room much the same. The menu’s reliable as well, with long-time favorites like the massive Brig burger, flambéed scallops and shrimp and crab Louie in big demand. There’s nothing especially creative or nouveau about the cooking; it’s more like going to a good friend’s house for Sunday dinner. There are several other Brig locations, including Point Loma (the original), 2725 Shelter Island Dr. ([tel] 619/224-2871), and Del Mar, 3263 Camino del Mar ([tel] 858/481-1166).