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It’s been around for more than 20 years, but after a smart recent renovation of the sushi bar and cozy, narrow dining room, this family-owned Union Square spot came out of the dining shadows to be recognized as one of the city’s best. If you want the chefs to blow your mind, order the omakase menu (be prepared; it’s about $100 per person), or tell the chefs how much you want to spend and let them craft a menu; or stick with a la carte options, which are reasonably priced for fish flown in fresh from Tokyo’s fish market. If you’re hungry for something more substantial, there are a few cooked specials, including ramen. Note: Don’t confuse this restaurant with the unrelated Akiko’s Sushi nearby on Mason Street; that other place is nowhere near as good.